Issue 150 | Saveur

Moussaka (Greek Eggplant Casserole)

Aglaia Kremezi — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:15 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

A good moussaka is “one of the most fabulous things you can eat,” according to Aglaia Kremezi, author of Mediterranean Hot and Spicy. Her recipe for the Greek eggplant casserole, inherited from her mother, is a labor of love requiring sautéing, frying, boiling, and baking—but it’s well worth the trouble. The components (meat sauce, béchamel, and fried eggplant and potatoes) can be prepared the day before assembling.

Yield: 8-10

Time: 4 hours 40 minutes

2 cups plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 bay leaves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 lb. ground beef
¼ cup tomato paste
1½ tsp. ground cinnamon, divided, plus more for dusting
½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg, divided
¼ tsp. ground cloves
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups whole milk
4 large eggs
3 large eggplants, sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
5 medium russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
1 cup coarsely grated graviera cheese, or Gruyère
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large pot set over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of the oil, the bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, 5–7 minutes. Add the beef and cook until browned and all the liquid has evaporated, about 30 minutes.
Add the tomato paste, 1¼ teaspoons of the ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon of the nutmeg, and the cloves and cook until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, tomatoes, and 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until nearly all the liquid has evaporated, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat, then discard the cinnamon sticks and bay leaves. Season generously with salt and black pepper and set aside.
Meanwhile, make the béchamel: In a medium bowl, beat the eggs. Melt the butter in a medium pot set over medium-high heat. Whisk in the flour and cook until light golden, about 2 minutes. Whisk in 1½ teaspoons of salt, the milk, and the remaining cinnamon and nutmeg. Cook, whisking frequently, until thick, about 10 minutes. Ladle about 1 cup of the béchamel into the egg, then whisk to combine. Pour the egg mixture back into the pot, then whisk until smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the remaining oil. Lightly dust the eggplant slices with cinnamon slices. When the oil is hot and shimmering, working in batches, fry the eggplant (turning once) until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then add the potatoes and cook until barely tender, 8–10 minutes. Drain and transfer to an ice bath. When cool, drain and set aside.
On the bottom of a 10-by-14-inch baking dish, spread 1 cup of the béchamel. Sprinkle with ⅓ cup of the graviera. Spread the potatoes evenly over the cheese, then cover evenly with the eggplant. Pour the meat sauce over the top, then spread with the remaining béchamel. Top with the remaining graviera. Bake until bubbling and golden brown, about 1 hour.

Around the World in 26 Eggplant Recipes

Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

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West African-Style Peanut Stew

Jessica B. Harris — Mon, 11 Feb 2019 14:10:42 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

“Peanut stews are found across West Africa, with ancient roots in dishes made with native groundnuts before the peanut arrived from the New World in the 16th century,” writes Dr. Jessica B. Harris, historian and author of High on the Hog. “Some are thick and served over rice or millet couscous, others thin and soupy, depending on where in Africa you are.” This version, inspired by Malian maafe and Ghana’s groundnut stews, pairs chicken with a generous portion of okra, tomatoes, eggplant, and hot chiles, which lighten the stew’s intense richness. Still, it’s the indispensable peanut that gives this dish its essential earthy character.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

⅓ cup vegetable oil
2 lb. bone-in chicken thighs, skin discarded, patted dry with paper towels
Kosher salt
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
¼ cup finely chopped ginger
4 dried chiles de árbol
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. ground turmeric
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp. ground cumin
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. fenugreek seeds
3 whole cloves
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
¾ cup smooth salted peanut butter
4 cups homemade chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup canned diced tomatoes
1 medium eggplant (about 1 lb.), peeled and cut into 1-in. cubes
10 okra pods (about 4 oz.), cut into 1-in. lengths
Steamed white rice, for serving
1 fresh red chile, such as peri-peri or bird’s-eye, thinly sliced
Roasted salted peanuts, coarsely chopped, for garnish

Instructions

To a pot set over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of the vegetable oil. Season the chicken generously with salt and cook, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside.
To the empty pot, add the onion, ginger, chiles de árbol, and the remaining oil and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the coriander, turmeric, black pepper, cumin, cinnamon, fenugreek, and cloves and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the peanut butter, tomatoes, reserved chicken, and chicken stock and turn the heat to high. When the liquid boils, turn down the heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered, until the chicken is done but not falling off the bone, about 25 minutes. Add the eggplant and okra and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is very tender and the vegetables are soft, 25–30 minutes more. Season with salt to taste.
To serve, ladle the soup over rice, if desired, and sprinkle with the fresh chile and peanuts.

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Blanquette de Veau

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:09 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

This classic French dish of delicate veal, cream, carrots, mushrooms, and butter (and more butter) does in many ways feel like a blanketed dish—in which nothing is cooked to the point of browning, but rather velveted in a warm and comforting white sauce. Blanquette de veau consistently ranks in the top ten when the French are surveyed about their favorite dishes. Find more of our favorite classic French recipes here.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 3 hours

5–6 parsley sprigs
3 thyme sprigs
1 tsp. coriander seeds
2 garlic cloves
5 black peppercorns
2 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
3 lb. boneless veal shoulder, cut into 1-in. chunks
16 baby carrots, peeled
10 oz. pearl onions, peeled
2 small fennel bulbs, each cut into 8 wedges
10 oz. button mushrooms, quartered
5 celery stalks, cut into 1-in. pieces
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. all-purpose flour
2 cup heavy cream
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
Cayenne pepper
Cooked white rice, for serving
⅓ cup crème fraîche
Parsley leaves, to garnish

Instructions

Make a bouquet garni: In a large square of cheesecloth, bundle the parsley, thyme, coriander, garlic, black peppercorns, cloves, and bay leaf; tie with kitchen twine to close, and set aside.
In a large pot set over high heat, bring the veal, bouquet garni, and 10 cups water to a boil; turn down the heat to medium-low, and cook, occasionally and skimming any impurities that rise to the surface, for 30 minutes. Add the carrots, onions, and fennel, and cook for 30 minutes. Add the mushrooms and celery, and cook until the veal is very tender and vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the veal and vegetables to a large bowl; cover and keep warm.
Set a fine sieve over a large bowl, and strain the veal. Measure 4 cups of the cooking liquid into a small pot, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 30 minutes. (Reserve the remaining veal broth for another use.)
Wipe the large pot clean and return it to the stove over medium heat; add the butter and once it has melted, whisk in the flour, and cook, stirring, to make a smooth, white roux, 3–5 minutes. Add the reduced stock and the cream, and bring to a boil; cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce is thickened and slightly reduced, about 15 minutes.
Return the veal and vegetables to the sauce, and cook until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, salt, white pepper, and cayenne; divide the blanquette de veau among bowls of white rice. Drizzle each serving with crème fraîche and garnish with parsley leaves before serving.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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Chicken Marsala

SAVEUR Editors — Wed, 12 Sep 2012 08:00:00 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT TAYLOR-GROSS

This dish has its origins in traditional Italian scallopini from Sicily and is a staple throughout Italian-American homes. Pounding the chicken cutlets thin before cooking makes them terrifically tender, while deglazing the pan with Marsala and stock creates a quick, rich sauce. Use a dry Marsala wine for this recipe, and save the sweet versions for sipping or for whipping up a batch of after-dinner zabaglione.

Featured in: “150 Classic Recipes from Saveur’s 150th Issue.“

Yield: serves 4 to 6

Time: 40 minutes

1¼ lb. chicken breasts (about 8), pounded ¼ in. thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup plus 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
5 tbsp. unsalted butter
8 oz. white button mushrooms
2 tbsp. minced shallots
1 clove garlic, minced
¹⁄₃ cup dry Marsala wine
¹⁄₃ cup chicken stock
1 tbsp. finely chopped parsley, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

Season chicken with salt and pepper and dredge in 1⁄3 cup flour. Heat 2 tbsp. oil and 1 tbsp. butter in a 12″ skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add chicken, and cook, turning once, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate, and set aside. Add 2 tbsp. oil and 1 tbsp. butter, and then add mushrooms; cook until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer to plate with chicken, and set aside.
Heat remaining oil in skillet, and then add shallots and garlic; cook, stirring, until soft, about 1 minute. Stir in remaining 1 tbsp. flour; cook for 2 minutes. Add Marsala and stock; cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pan until slightly thick, about 2 minutes. Return chicken and mushrooms to skillet, and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in remaining butter. Season with salt and pepper; garnish with parsley, if you like.

Our Best Italian-American Classic Recipes

Photography by Todd Coleman

Spaghetti and meatballs, veal parm, stromboli—this is our ultimate comfort food.

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Old-School Veal Piccata

SAVEUR Editors — Fri, 08 Feb 2019 18:17:10 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LINDA XIAO; FOOD STYLING BY JASON SCHREIBER; PROP STYLING BY SUMMER MOORE

Like chicken marsala and veal saltimbocca, veal piccata is an old-school Italian import that’s a mainstay of the Italian American restaurant. Our signature recipe starts with pan-fried veal scaloppini and keeps things staunchly traditional with a simple white wine-lemon sauce. Capers and a parsley, thrown in just before serving, add brightness and texture, while a knob of butter thickens the sauce. Garlic lovers may wish to sauté two finely chopped cloves in the skillet before adding the wine in step 3. Buttered spaghetti is a good accompaniment.

Yield: serves 6

Time: 40 minutes

2 lb. (about 12) veal cutlets, pounded ¼-in. thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cups all-purpose flour
4 tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
2 tbsp. olive oil, plus more as needed
½ cups dry white wine
1¼ cups homemade chicken stock (or low-sodium chicken broth)
1 lemon, sliced into ⅛-in.-thick rounds, seeded
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
¼ cups drained capers
2 tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley

Instructions

Place a serving platter on the rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 200ºF. In a shallow dish or pie plate, place the flour. Season the cutlets generously with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour, shaking off any excess. Transfer to a plate by the stove.
To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter. When it’s hot and shimmering, add enough cutlets to cover the bottom of the pan without overcrowding. Fry, turning once, until golden brown, 3–5 minutes. Transfer to the serving platter, then repeat with the remaining cutlets, adding more oil if the pan looks dry.
To the empty skillet, add the wine and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and lemon slices and boil until reduced by half again, about 9 minutes more. Stir in the lemon juice, capers, parsley, and remaining butter and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Pour the sauce over the veal and serve immediately.

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Catalan Asparagus Vinagrette (Espàrrecs Amb Vinagreta)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:37:20 +0000

This Catalan salsa vinagreta, based on one from Claudia Roden’s cookbook The Food of Spain, is a deceptively simple mixture of olive oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley, and crushed tomato. When poured over blanched asparagus, it transforms the green and subtle vegetable into a sumptuous dish.

Equipment

Yield: serves 6-8

Time: 25 minutes

Kosher salt
2½ lb. asparagus, fibrous bottoms snapped off
¼ plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 tbsp. capers
2 tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 plum tomatoes, cored and finely chopped
½ cups medium red onion, finely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
2 hard-boiled eggs, quartered

Instructions

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus and cook until tender, about 4 minutes. Drain, then transfer to a platter.
While the asparagus cooks, in a bowl, whisk together the oil, capers, parsley, lemon juice, tomatoes, and onion. Season with salt and black pepper to taste.
To serve, spoon the sauce over the asparagus and garnish with the eggs.

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Scotch Eggs

Lucy-Ruth Hathaway — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:22 +0000

Maxime Iattoni

A hard-boiled egg encased in sausage and bread crumbs, and then deep-fried, is a fixture of modern pub menus, but London department store Fortnum & Mason claims to have invented the hearty snack in 1738. This recipe comes from London-based food stylist Lucy-Ruth Hathaway. We recommend frying a bite of sausage to test for saltiness before assembly. This scotch egg recipe was featured in our 150 classic recipes in our 150th issue.

Yield: serves 6

7 large eggs, divided
1 lb. mild pork sausage, casings removed
1 tbsp. English mustard, such as Colman’s
1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp. cornstarch
¼ tsp. ground mace
2 sage leaves, finely chopped
2 thyme sprigs, stemmed and finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
¼ cups whole milk
½ cups all-purpose flour
2 cups panko bread crumbs

Instructions

In a large Dutch oven, place 6 of the eggs and cover by 1 inch with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then cover, remove from the heat, and let sit for 6 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water, and cool for 5 minutes. Pour out the ice water. Peel the eggs under cold running water, place the peeled eggs back in the bowl, and set aside.
Use a paper towel to pat the eggs dry. In a medium bowl, use your hands to combine the sausage meat, mustard, Worcestershire, cornstarch, mace, sage, thyme, and salt and black pepper to taste. Divide the mixture into 6 equal portions. With wet hands, form each portion around each cooked egg, coating it completely in an even layer. Place the eggs on a plate and refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm up the coating.
Line a large plate with paper towels. Rinse and thoroughly dry the Dutch oven, then turn the heat to medium-high, and add the oil to a depth of 2 inches, and attach a deep-fry thermometer. While the oil preheats, in a small bowl, beat the remaining egg with the milk. Place the flour and bread crumbs in two separate small bowls. When the thermometer reads 350°F, working in batches, dredge each meat-covered egg in flour, then coat with the egg mixture and then the bread crumbs. Fry, flipping occasionally, until golden and the meat is cooked through, about 7 minutes. Transfer to the plate to cool for 10 minutes, then serve.

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Steak Diane

SAVEUR Editors — Sat, 25 Sep 2021 14:50:00 +0000

Maura McEvoy

Considered a signature entree at Manhattan’s beloved Drake Hotel, Steak Diane is widely attributed to Beniamino Schiavon, the Drake’s maître d’hôtel from 1942 to 1967. Though many assume the name references the Roman goddess of the hunt, The New York Times, in its 1968 obituary of Schiavon, described the titular Diane only as a “beauty of the 1920s.” SAVEUR’s take on the steak upgrades the beef from the Drake’s original sirloin to tender filet mignon.

Featured in: “The Drama of Dinner: How to Fine-Dine at Home.”

Yield: makes 4 Steaks

Time: 35 minutes

Four 4-oz. filet mignon steaks
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp. canola oil
1 ¹⁄₂ cups beef stock
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 2 tsp.)
1 medium shallot, finely chopped (about ¼ cup)
4 oz. oyster or hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, torn into small pieces (about 2 cups)
¹⁄₄ cup cognac
¹⁄₄ cup heavy cream
1 tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
¹⁄₄ tsp. Tabasco sauce
1 tbsp. finely chopped chives
1 tbsp. finely chopped Italian parsley

Instructions

Season the steaks generously with salt and pepper. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers, then add the steaks and cook, turning once, until evenly browned, 4–5 minutes for medium rare. Transfer to a plate to rest.
Meanwhile, return the skillet to medium-high heat and add the stock. Cook, stirring to deglaze, until the liquid is reduced by two-thirds, about 10 minutes. Pour the demi-glace into a heatproof bowl and set aside.
Return the skillet to medium-high heat and add the butter. When the butter is melted and the foam begins to subside, add the garlic and shallot, and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until they soften, release their liquid, and begin to brown, about 2 minutes more. Add the cognac, then carefully light with a long match or lighter to flambé, shaking gently until the flame dies down. Stir in the reserved demi-glace along with the cream, Dijon, Worcestershire, and Tabasco.
Return the reserved steaks to the skillet, lower the heat to simmer, and cook, turning to coat, until the sauce is thickened and the meat is warmed through, about 4 minutes. To serve, transfer the steaks to warmed serving plates; stir the chives and parsley into the sauce, and drizzle it over the steaks.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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Chile Verde

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:34 +0000

You can get a bowl of green chili most anywhere in the American southwest, but New Mexicans are particularly proud of their chile verde, with its hunks of juicy pork shoulder and tart tomatillo-based sauce. Get the recipe for Chile Verde ». Penny De Los Santos

You can get a bowl of green chili most anywhere in the American southwest, but New Mexicans are particularly proud of their chile verde, with its hunks of juicy pork shoulder and tart tomatillo-based sauce. The dish gets its oomph from green chiles, ideally the gorgeous ones grown around the town of Hatch, of which New Mexicans are likewise justly proud.

Yield: serves 4-6

¹⁄₄ cup canola oil
2 lb. boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1/2" cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¹⁄₂ cup flour
8 oz. ground breakfast sausage
2 tbsp. ground cumin
1 tbsp. green chile powder
1 dried pasilla chile, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
¹⁄₂ cup chopped scallions
12 tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and finely chopped
2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
2 serrano chiles, stemmed and finely chopped
2 Anaheim chiles, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped
2 cups chicken stock
1 (15 oz.) can green enchilada sauce, such as Hatch
Hot sauce, for serving
Roughly torn cilantro leaves, to garnish

Instructions

Heat oil in an 8-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Season pork with salt and pepper; toss with flour. Working in batches, add pork to pan; cook until browned, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a bowl; set aside. Add sausage; cook, breaking up with a spoon, until browned, about 4 minutes. Transfer to bowl with pork. Add cumin, chili powder, and pasilla; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add scallions, tomatillos, onions, serranos, Anaheim chiles, and bell pepper; cook until soft, about 15 minutes. Add reserved pork and sausage, stock, and enchilada sauce; cook until pork is tender, about 30 minutes. Garnish with cilantro; serve with hot sauce.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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Poutine (French Fries with Gravy and Cheese Curds)

SAVEUR Editors — Wed, 22 Apr 2020 14:07:11 +0000

Maxime Iattoni

Montreal’s gastronomic achievements may have reached dizzying heights, but the province of Quebec will forever be known as the place where poutine fries began. An unabashedly hearty mixture of French-fried potatoes, beef gravy, and squeaky-fresh cheese curds, this Canadian french fries dish (similar to New Jersey’s “disco fries”) is the ultimate late-night party snack.

Our poutine recipe comes from former Saveur Test Kitchen assistant, and Toronto native, Anne-Marie White, whose addition of green peppercorns and Worcestershire sauce brings a layer of spicy depth to the gravy.

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Equipment

Yield: serves 4-6

Time: 3 hours 45 minutes

4 lb. russet potatoes, skin-on, washed and dried
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
¹⁄₄ cup flour
1 shallot, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
4 cups beef stock
2 Tbsp. ketchup
1 Tbsp. cider vinegar
1 Tbsp. whole green peppercorns
¹⁄₂ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil, for frying
2 cups cheddar cheese curds

Instructions

Cut potatoes into lengths of about 1⁄4″ x 1⁄4″ x 4″. Place in a large bowl, cover with cold water, and refrigerate for about 2 hours.
Meanwhile, heat butter in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium-high heat. Add flour, and cook, stirring, until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add shallot and garlic, and cook, until soft, about 2 minutes. Add stock, ketchup, vinegar, peppercorns, Worcestershire, and salt and pepper, and bring to a boil; cook, stirring, until thickened, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat, and keep gravy warm.
Pour oil to a depth of 3″ in a 6-qt. Dutch oven, and heat over medium heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 325°. Drain potatoes, and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Working in small batches, add potatoes and fry, tossing occasionally, until tender and slightly crisp, about 4 minutes.
Drain on paper towels, and let cool for 20 minutes. Increase temperature to medium-high, and heat oil until it reads 375°. Working in small batches, return potatoes to oil, and fry, tossing occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer fries to paper towels to drain briefly, and then divide among serving bowls. Pour gravy over each serving of fries, and top with cheese curds; serve immediately.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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