Eggs | Saveur

Custardy French Toast

Megan Heine — Mon, 31 Jul 2023 21:00:00 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Shortly after Brockton Villa Restaurant opened its doors along the shores of La Jolla, California, the eatery’s French toast became its bestselling menu item. Brockton Villa’s Coast Toast recipe is a famously pillowy, custardy take on the classic dish that calls for grilling the bread first in order to brown it, then placing it in the oven so the egg-and-cream-soaked toast swells up like a soufflé. Orange juice and orange curaçao (look for the liqueur at a liquor store, or online) infuse the bread with a subtle, delightful citrusy aroma.

Owner Megan Heine named the recipe (and trademarked the moniker) as a nod to the restaurant’s waterfront location overlooking the Pacific. As customers enjoy their brunch on the balcony of the renovated beach bungalow, they have a front-row seat to waves crashing on the golden sands below, and sea lions sunbathing in La Jolla Cove. Can you think of any better way to spend a morning in Southern California?—Megan Zhang

Featured in “The Coastal Village That Runs on Breakfast,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 3–6

Time: 1 hour 25 minutes

5 large eggs
2 cups heavy cream
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. orange juice
¼ cup sugar
1 Tbsp. vanilla extract
1 Tbsp. orange curaçao
Pinch of kosher salt
½ loaf soft French bread, sliced on the bias into six 1½-in.-thick slices
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
Powdered sugar, for garnish
Ice cream, strawberries, jam, and/or maple syrup, for serving (optional)

Instructions

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, orange juice, sugar, vanilla, curaçao, and salt. Add the bread, toss to coat, cover and refrigerate for one hour.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set it by the stove.
In a large skillet or flat grill pan over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. When the foam begins to subside, place 2 slices of custard-soaked bread in the skillet and cook until the bottom turns golden-brown, 2–3 minutes; flip and continue cooking until the slices are golden-brown on the other side, 2–3 minutes more. Transfer to the lined baking sheet, and set aside as you continue searing the remaining slices, wiping out the skillet and adding a fresh tablespoon of butter between batches.
Bake the toasts just until puffed, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter or individual dessert plates, dust with powdered sugar, and serve immediately, with ice cream, berries, jam, and maple syrup on the side, if desired.

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Changua

Megan Zhang — Wed, 28 Jun 2023 00:40:00 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY JESSIE YUCHEN; PROP STYLING BY KIM GRAY

Since the early 1800s, the tiny, beloved restaurant La Puerta Falsa in Bogotá has been serving traditional homestyle Colombian fare, with a short menu featuring tamales, ajiaco, and—the one that stayed with me the most—changua. A milky soup bobbing with jammy eggs, hunks of bread, and pungent alliums, changua is a belly-warming breakfast with an interesting amalgamation of textures and flavors. This changua recipe is adapted from the version served at La Puerta Falsa.

For the bread, almojábanas and pandebono (two Colombian varieties made with cheese), as well as calados (a type of stale bread), are popular choices—look for them at a Colombian bakery, or online. Day-old crusty country loaves or baguettes are also typical.

For the cheese, Bogotana chef Alejandra Cubillos González recommends queso Colombiano or queso campesino. When she can’t find these, she sometimes substitutes cheese curds. Or, use halloumi or low-moisture mozzarella, as Colombiana cookbook author Mariana Velasquez suggests. Though adding cheese—as Puerta Falsa does—is common, the dish is just as often made without it, depending on region and personal preference.

Featured in, “This Milky, Eggy, Cheesy Soup Comes to the Rescue on Chilly Mornings,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 4

Time: 20 minutes

3 cups 2-percent milk
3 scallions, two halved lengthwise, one finely chopped
3 cilantro sprigs, plus ¼ cup finely chopped leaves and stems
Kosher salt
6 oz. Colombian-style queso fresco, cut into ½-in. slices, optional (see headnote)
4 large eggs
6 oz. day-old bread (see headnote), cut into large bite-size pieces (3 cups, lightly packed)

Instructions

To a medium pot set over medium-high heat, add the milk, split scallions, cilantro sprigs, and 4 cups water, then lightly season with salt. When the liquid begins to boil, turn the heat to medium-low and cook at a low simmer, stirring occasionally, until the scallions are soft but still green, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the cheese if using, then crack one egg into a small cup and gently slide it into the pot; repeat with the remaining eggs. Cook, without stirring, until the whites are set and the yolks are jammy, 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Season the broth with more salt to taste.
Using tongs, discard the split scallion and cilantro sprigs. Into four serving bowls, place a few chunks of bread, then divide the soup among the bowls. Top with the chopped scallion and cilantro and serve.

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Kaiserschmarrn (Austrian Scrambled Pancakes)

Fatima Khawaja — Thu, 11 May 2023 15:28:25 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling By Jessie YuChen; Prop Styling By Kim Gray

Historic old-school cafes dot the streets of Vienna, making it easy to pop in for a melange (a milky espresso drink) and something sweet. I decided to visit the pastry shop, Demel, to try its famous Sachertorte—the chocolate cake that is one of Vienna’s most famous desserts—and other confections. When I reached the shop and peeked into the large glass windows, I saw cooks slinging giant, messy pancakes with little fuss and precision. They were making kaiserschmarrn, another sweet coffeehouse staple in Vienna. Before serving, the pancakes were torn up, creating a texturally interesting dish with crispy edges and soft centers all jumbled together. Dusted with powdered sugar and served with rum-soaked raisins, the casual dish was a delightful contrast to the centuries-old establishment’s grandiose interior. It’s also much easier to make than Sachertorte. This kaiserschmarrn recipe, inspired by Demel’s version, is a simple one-pan dessert—minimal flipping skills required. In the spring and summer, feel free to swap out Demel’s boozy dried fruit pairing for a fresh fruit compote—I like black plums quick-simmered with sugar and cinnamon.—Fatima Khawaja

Yield: 2

Time: 40 minutes

3 large eggs, whites and yolks separated
1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. sugar
¾ cup milk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
½ cup all-purpose flour
Pinch of kosher salt
3 Tbsp. clarified butter, divided
2 Tbsp. powdered sugar, for dusting
Fresh or store-bought fruit compote, for serving (optional)

Instructions

In a large bowl, use an electric mixer or whisk to whip the egg whites and sugar to soft peaks. In a second large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, milk, and vanilla. Whisk in the flour and salt just until incorporated (some lumps are OK). Gently fold the egg white mixture into the yolk mixture (again, some lumps are OK).
To a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat, add half the clarified butter. When the butter is hot, pour the batter into the pan and cook until the bottom is golden-brown, about 4 minutes. Using a spatula, cut the pancake into fours. Flip the pieces and drizzle the remaining clarified butter around the outer edges of the pancake; cook until the bottom is golden-brown, about 4 minutes. Use the spatula to cut the pancake into shaggy bite-size pieces. Transfer to a large plate and dust with powdered sugar. Serve hot, with fruit compote if desired.

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Croque Madame

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:13 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY LAURA SAMPEDRO

The croque monsieur, the classic French ham and cheese sandwich covered in silky béchamel, becomes a croque madame when a fried egg is placed on top. This croque madame recipe first appeared in our April 2011 Special Sandwich Issue alongside author Alexander Lobrano’s article “Classic Combination: Ham and Cheese.”

Yield: 6

Time: 30 minutes

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
3½ cups (12 oz.) coarsely grated Gruyère cheese, divided
½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
Twelve ¾-in. slices pain de mie or other white Pullman bread, toasted
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
12 thin slices baked ham
2 Tbsp. canola oil
6 large eggs

Instructions

In a small pot over medium heat, melt the butter. When the foam begins to subside, whisk in the flour and cook, stirring continuously, just until smooth, about 1 minute. Whisk in the milk, bring to a full boil, then turn the heat down to medium-low and cook at a gentle simmer until the sauce thickens, 6–8 minutes. Remove from the heat, whisk in ½ cup of the grated Gruyère and all of the Parmesan until smooth. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and nutmeg.
Preheat the broiler to high. Place 6 slices of toast on a foil-lined baking sheet, and spread 1 tablespoon of mustard over each slice. Top each with 2 slices of ham and the remaining Gruyère. Broil just until the cheese begins to melt, 1–2 minutes. Top with the remaining bread slices, then distribute the béchamel evenly over the sandwiches. Broil until the sauce is bubbling and evenly browned, 1–4 minutes (Keep a close eye on the croques as they cook; depending on the configuration of your broiler, the sauce can scorch very quickly).
Meanwhile, to a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast iron skillet over medium heat, add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the eggs, season lightly with salt and black pepper, and cook until the whites are cooked but yolks are still runny, about 3 minutes. Remove the sandwiches from the broiler, place an egg atop each, and serve hot with knives and forks.

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Monte Cristo Sandwich

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:21 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

People have strong opinions about the Monte Cristo sandwich, a double-decker of Swiss cheese, ham, and chicken or turkey, which is battered, fried, dusted with confectioners sugar, and served with a side of tart red jelly. Some consider it a marvel; others, an absurdity. Divisiveness aside, the perfect Monte Cristo recipe is an impressive one; the resulting sandwich is a stunning creation, requiring a knife and fork at the table. This recipe ran alongside Carolynn Carreño’s 1998 article, “Fried Nirvana?“

Yield: 2

Time: 20 minutes

2 large eggs
¼ cup whole milk
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
6 thin slices white bread
4 thin slices cooked turkey
4 thin slices cooked ham
4 thin slices Swiss cheese
Confectioners sugar, for garnish (optional)
Red currant jelly, for serving

Instructions

In a shallow bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk; season lightly with salt and black pepper and set aside.
For each sandwich, lightly butter 3 slices of bread on both sides (using a total of about 1 tablespoon of the butter). Place 2 slices each of turkey and ham between 2 slices of bread. Top with 2 slices of cheese, and then top with a third slice of buttered bread. Trim crusts, secure with toothpicks, and cut in half on the diagonal. Repeat with the remaining bread, turkey, ham, and cheese.
In a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast iron skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Dip the sandwich halves in the reserved egg-milk mixture to coat. When the melted butter foams, place the sandwiches in the skillet and cook until golden brown on one side, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the skillet, flip the sandwiches, and continue cooking until browned on the other side, about 2 minutes more. Transfer the sandwiches to 2 plates, sprinkle with confectioners sugar (if desired), and serve hot with red currant jelly on the side.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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Sauce Gribiche

Kat Craddock — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:22:18 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

Classic sauce gribiche is the zippy cousin to mayonnaise, one of the six “sauces mères” at the heart of traditional French cuisine. Flavored with Dijon mustard and wine vinegar and studded with hard-boiled egg, cornichons, capers, and parsley, this version takes cues from the great Jacques Pépin and the Larousse Gastronomique—the definitive tome of French food and drink. A sort of continental sister to tartare sauce, this piquant condiment has the power to brighten and elevate a wide range of dishes, from steamed asparagus to fried fish to chicken cordon bleu. Anchovy is a non-traditional (but delicious) addition. For a vegetarian sauce, feel free to omit it.

Yield: Makes: 1⅓ cup

Time: 15 minutes

2 large, hard-boiled eggs, whites and yolks separated
1 large egg yolk
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 anchovy fillet, finely chopped (optional)
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
4 cornichons, finely chopped (1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp.)
1 Tbsp. finely chopped capers
1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley or chervil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch cayenne pepper

Instructions

In a medium bowl, mash up the hard-boiled and raw egg yolks with the mustard and anchovy fillet (if using). Slowly begin drizzling in the oil a tablespoon or so at a time while whisking continuously, being sure that all the oil has been emulsified into the yolks before adding more. Once all the oil has been added and you have a very thick and creamy emulsion, whisk in the vinegar. Fold in the cornichons, capers, and parsley. Finely chop the egg white and fold that in too. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and cayenne, then use immediately or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

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Avgolemono

Diane Kochilas — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:37:29 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

There are iterations of egg- and lemon-based soups all over the world, but this classic avgolemono recipe belongs to the Mediterranean. This simple Greek soup of eggs, lemons, and chicken broth is adapted from chef Diane Kochilas’ The Country Cooking of Greece and can be made using orzo pasta instead of rice.

Yield: 8

Time: 35 minutes

8 cups chicken stock
1 cup long-grain white rice
4 large eggs
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Parsley leaves, for garnish

Instructions

In a medium pot set over high heat, bring the stock to a boil. Turn down the heat to medium and stir in the rice; partially cover the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes.
In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and lemon juice together until frothy. Whisk 1 cup of the simmering stock into the egg-lemon juice mixture, then whisk the egg-lemon juice-stock mixture back to the pot. Cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot continuously, until the broth thickens, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat,and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Ladle the avgolemono into wide bowls, garnish each serving with fresh parsley, and serve hot.

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Huevos a la Mexicana

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:47:04 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

This quick Mexican egg dish is made “a la Mexicana” with red tomatoes, white onions, and green jalapeños—ingredients that mirror the colors of the Mexican flag. Find more of our favorite Mexican recipes here.

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Yield: serves 4–6

Time: 12 minutes

3 Tbsp. canola oil
1 small white onion, finely chopped
1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped
1 plum tomato, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
2 Tbsp. thinly sliced cilantro leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
8 large eggs, lightly beaten
Warm tortillas, for serving

Instructions

To a large skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add the onion, jalapeño, and tomato, season with salt and black pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent and the chile and tomato are soft, 6–8 minutes. Add the cilantro and eggs, and continue cooking, using a spatula to fold the eggs over in large curds occasionally, until cooked through, about 4 minutes. Transfer the huevos a la Mexicana to a warm platter and serve hot, with warm tortillas on the side.

WATCH: How to Dice a Hot Pepper

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Baby Cocoa Meringues with Chocolate Cream and Candied Coconut

J.R. Ryall — Mon, 19 Dec 2022 14:33:29 +0000

Photography by Cliodhna Prendergast

These dainty chocolate meringues can be made any time of year, pairing nicely with fresh berries in summertime and citrus fruit in winter. JR Ryall, executive pastry chef at County Cork, Ireland’s Ballymaloe House, likes to sandwich the airy cookies around a bittersweet chocolate cream filling to balance the sweetness of the meringue. Use a good-quality dark (semisweet) chocolate with 75 percent cocoa solids, which will give the cream a nice depth of flavor. Rolling the sandwiches in candied coconut adds to their playful appearance. Be sure to use finely ground, unsweetened desiccated coconut, which is sometimes also labeled “macaroon coconut”. The meringues and candied coconut may be made and stored separately in dry, airtight containers for up to a week ahead of time. Make the chocolate cream and assemble the sandwiches immediately before serving.

This recipe is adapted from Ballymaloe Desserts by JR Ryall (Phaidon 2022).

Yield: Makes 25 sandwiched meringues

Time: 4 hours 30 minutes

Ingredients

For the meringue:

2 extra-large egg whites
¾ cup (4 oz.) confectioners sugar
2 tsp. unsweetened cocoa powder

For the candied coconut:

1⁄3 cup plus 1 Tbsp. (3 oz.) superfine sugar
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. (3¾ oz.) desiccated coconut

For the chocolate cream:

1½ oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (⅓ cup)
¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. heavy cream, divided, plus extra to serve
Confectioners sugar, for dusting

Instructions

Make the meringue: Preheat the oven to 265°F. Line 3 large baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, beat the egg whites and sugar on high speed until the mixture forms stiff peaks, 10–11 minutes.
Sift the cocoa powder directly over the meringue and, using a silicone spatula, immediately fold it in. (Once the cocoa has been added, the meringue will begin to deflate, so move quickly.) Transfer the meringue to a piping bag fitted with a ½-inch circular tip, then pipe the meringue onto two of the lined baking sheets (you should get about fifty 1-inch drops). Bake, rotating the pans 180 degrees halfway through cooking, until the meringues are set and easily lift away from the baking paper, about 2½ hours. Set aside to cool at room temperature.
Meanwhile, make the candied coconut: Turn the oven down to 250°F.
To a small pot over medium heat, add the sugar and ⅓ cup cold water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, stir in the coconut until it is thoroughly hydrated, then transfer the mixture to the third lined baking sheet.
Bake, gently stirring the coconut occasionally, until the syrup has evaporated and the coconut has taken on a very pale tan color (do not let it brown), 45–50 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, roll a clean rolling pin firmly over the candied coconut to crush any large clumps.
Make the chocolate cream: In a double boiler or heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, melt the chocolate, then remove from the heat and whisk in 2 tablespoons of cream. If the mixture is still hot, set aside, stirring occasionally, until it is just barely warm to the touch.
Meanwhile, whip the remaining ¾ cups cream until soft peaks form. Working in 3 stages, gently fold the whipped cream into the melted chocolate mixture. (If this is not done gradually, the cold whipped cream may cause the chocolate to seize up.) Transfer the chocolate cream to a clean piping bag fitted with a 1-inch round tip.
Immediately before serving, assemble the cookies: Pipe the chocolate cream onto the bottom of one meringue and sandwich with another. Roll the edge of each sandwich in the candied coconut so it sticks to the sides of the chocolate cream. Lightly dust the meringues with confectioners sugar and arrange on a serving platter or stand. Serve immediately, with extra whipped cream, if desired.

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Apple Snow

J.R. Ryall — Fri, 16 Dec 2022 14:48:30 +0000

Photography by Cliodhna Prendergast

Apple purée has gone somewhat out of fashion, though it remains one of life’s simple pleasures. It was once a staple dessert in most households in Ireland, usually served with cream, custard, or ice cream. Apple snow is apple purée’s fluffy sibling. The addition of whipped egg white makes the strained fruit lovely and light—and it is particularly good when made with first-of-the-season tart baking apples. At Ballymaloe House in County Cork, head pastry chef J.R. Ryall uses the Bramley’s Seedling variety, but if you can’t find them, Granny Smiths work nicely, too. Serve the simple, fluffy mousse with very cold cream, a sprinkle of dark muscovado sugar, and crisp shortbread or oatmeal cookies.

This recipe is adapted from Ballymaloe Desserts by JR Ryall (Phaidon 2022).

Yield: 6

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

1 lb. firm cooking apples, such as Bramley’s Seedlings
¼ cup superfine sugar, plus more
2 Tbsp. cold water
2 extra-large egg whites
Dark muscovado sugar, for sprinkling
Very cold heavy cream
Shortbread or oatmeal cookies (optional)

Instructions

Make the apple purée: Peel, quarter and core the apples, then cut each quarter in half and place in a medium pot. Add the sugar and 2 tablespoons of cold water, cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid, and set over low heat. Cook until the apples are completely soft and collapsed, 8–12 minutes, then turn off the heat and set aside to cool slightly.
Set a medium-mesh strainer in a large bowl, transfer the apple purée into it, then use a silicone spatula to press the apples into the bowl to make a smooth purée. Season to taste with more sugar, then set aside to cool to room temperature.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. (Take care not to overbeat as the whites can begin to turn grainy.) Using a silicone spatula, fold the whites into the cooled apple purée, cover, and transfer to the fridge to chill, about 1 hour.
When the apple snow is cold, spoon into pretty glasses, sprinkle with dark muscovado sugar, and serve with cold cream on the side for drizzling and shortbread or oatmeal cookies, if desired.

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