Issue 137 | Saveur

California Sandwich

Betsy Andrews — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:43 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Our classic California sandwich recipe combines a trio of fresh Golden State produce, Monterey Jack cheese, and a creamy ranch-like dressing. A version of this late-century favorite can still be found on deli-counter and sandwich-shop menus throughout California—but the feel-good meal is just as easy to layer up at home.

This recipe first appeared in our April 2011 Sandwich Issue with the story, “Golden State of Sandwiches,” by Betsy Andrews.

Yield: 2

Time: 10 minutes

¼ cup buttermilk
¼ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup sour cream
1 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
½ tsp. garlic powder
¼ tsp. onion powder
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 slices multigrain bread
2 slices Monterey Jack cheese
½ cup alfalfa sprouts
1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced
1 ripe tomato, cored and thinly sliced

Instructions

In a small bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, mayonnaise, sour cream, chives, parsley, garlic powder, and onion powder. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, then spread the mixture on one side of each of the bread slices. Place a slice of cheese on two of the bread slices, then divide the sprouts, avocado, and tomato atop the cheese. Season the vegetables lightly with salt and black pepper, top with the remaining bread slices, and serve the sandwiches cold or at room temperature.

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Croque Madame

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:13 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY LAURA SAMPEDRO

The croque monsieur, the classic French ham and cheese sandwich covered in silky béchamel, becomes a croque madame when a fried egg is placed on top. This croque madame recipe first appeared in our April 2011 Special Sandwich Issue alongside author Alexander Lobrano’s article “Classic Combination: Ham and Cheese.”

Yield: 6

Time: 30 minutes

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
3½ cups (12 oz.) coarsely grated Gruyère cheese, divided
½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
Twelve ¾-in. slices pain de mie or other white Pullman bread, toasted
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
12 thin slices baked ham
2 Tbsp. canola oil
6 large eggs

Instructions

In a small pot over medium heat, melt the butter. When the foam begins to subside, whisk in the flour and cook, stirring continuously, just until smooth, about 1 minute. Whisk in the milk, bring to a full boil, then turn the heat down to medium-low and cook at a gentle simmer until the sauce thickens, 6–8 minutes. Remove from the heat, whisk in ½ cup of the grated Gruyère and all of the Parmesan until smooth. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and nutmeg.
Preheat the broiler to high. Place 6 slices of toast on a foil-lined baking sheet, and spread 1 tablespoon of mustard over each slice. Top each with 2 slices of ham and the remaining Gruyère. Broil just until the cheese begins to melt, 1–2 minutes. Top with the remaining bread slices, then distribute the béchamel evenly over the sandwiches. Broil until the sauce is bubbling and evenly browned, 1–4 minutes (Keep a close eye on the croques as they cook; depending on the configuration of your broiler, the sauce can scorch very quickly).
Meanwhile, to a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast iron skillet over medium heat, add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the eggs, season lightly with salt and black pepper, and cook until the whites are cooked but yolks are still runny, about 3 minutes. Remove the sandwiches from the broiler, place an egg atop each, and serve hot with knives and forks.

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Vada Pav (Southern Indian Potato Sliders)

Kat Craddock — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:47:34 +0000

Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

These starchy potato sandwiches are a popular beachside snack in Mumbai. In this vada pav recipe adapted from one served at the late chef Floyd Cardoz’s now-shuttered New York City restaurant, Paowalla, fluffy Goan-style white rolls are filled with a crispy fried potato patty, sweet and hot chutneys, and a garlicky powdered chile-coconut condiment.

What You Will Need

Yield: serves 12

Time: 2 hours

8 medium yellow potatoes (4 lb.)
2 tbsp. mustard oil
2 tsp. mustard seeds
2 tsp. cumin seeds
Pinch asafoetida (hing)
1½ tsp. ground turmeric, divided
1 tsp. ground coriander
12 curry leaves
1 small onion, minced (1 cup)
4–6 green bird’s eye chiles, thinly sliced
½ cups chopped cilantro
3 cups chickpea flour
1 tsp. baking soda
Kosher salt
Canola oil, for frying
12 small, soft white rolls, homemade or store-bought
Mint chutney, tamarind chutney, and dry garlic chutney, to serve

Instructions

In a large pot, add the potatoes and enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, and cook until tender, 35–40 minutes. Drain, set aside to cool slightly, then use a kitchen towel to remove and discard the skins. Pass the potatoes through a ricer into a medium bowl (alternatively, place the potatoes in a medium bowl and mash gently with a fork), then gently fold in the cilantro.
In a large skillet, heat the mustard oil over high heat until smoking. Add the mustard seeds and cumin seeds and cook until they begin to pop. Stir in the asafoetida, 1 teaspoon ground turmeric, and the coriander and cook a few seconds more, then add the curry leaves and cook until they blister and turn bright and glossy, 5–10 seconds. Add the onion and chiles, then lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent but not yet browned, 5–7 minutes. Transfer the onion mixture to the bowl with the potatoes; season with salt and stir gently to combine, then set aside until cool enough to handle.
Shape the cooled potato mixture into 12 even patties, about 4 ounces each or ½ cup of mixture per patty. Place on a plate and transfer, uncovered, to the freezer to firm slightly.
Prepare the batter: In a medium bowl, whisk the chickpea flour, baking soda, and the remaining ½ teaspoon turmeric to combine. Season to taste with salt, then whisk in 1½ cups of cool water to make a smooth, thick but pourable batter. Set aside to rest for 15 minutes.
Fry the patties: Fit a heavy-bottomed pot with a deep-fry thermometer and add oil to a depth of 2 inches. Cook over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 350°F. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with paper towels and set it by the stove.
Remove the potato patties from the freezer and dredge them in the batter to coat. Working in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan, carefully drop the patties into the oil. Stir immediately to prevent them from sticking to the pan or each other, then cook, turning once, until evenly golden, crispy, and warmed through, 4–5 minutes per batch. Remove with a spider skimmer or slotted metal spoon and drain on the lined baking sheet while you finish frying the rest of the patties.
Slice the buns in half, smear the tops with green chutney and place the potato patties on the bottoms. Spread the patties with sweet tamarind chutney and sprinkle generously with the dry garlic chutney. Replace the top buns and serve hot.

Floyd Cardoz’s Goan Sandwich Rolls

Get the recipe >

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Bacon Butty

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:41 +0000

Bacon Butty. Todd Coleman

This beloved British sandwich uses a meaty cut of pork from the loin of the pig, commonly referred to in North America as back bacon. Tangy HP Sauce, a popular British condiment with a sweet, smoky flavor, makes a mouthwatering counterpoint to the salty meat. This recipe first appeared in the article Britain’s Pride, in the April 2011 special Sandwich Issue.

Yield: serves 1

3 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
6 slices back bacon
1 crusty round roll, halved and lightly toasted
2 tbsp. HP Sauce

Instructions

Heat 1 tbsp. butter in a 10″ skillet over medium heat. Add bacon and cook, turning once, until browned and crispy, about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, spread remaining butter on top and bottom of roll. Place bacon on bottom half and top with HP Sauce. Cover with roll top.

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Asaltado Vegetariano (Stir-Fried Vegetable Sandwich)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:31:18 +0000

This sandwich combines stir-fried vegetables with a citrusy chile mayonnaise. Todd Coleman

The mayonnaise-based sauce in this hearty vegetable and cheese sandwich from Pasquale Hermanos, chef Gaston Acurio’s chain of sandwich shops based in Lima, Peru, is flavored with ground fresh rocoto, a spicy South American chile. This recipe first appeared in our April 2011 special Sandwich Issue with the article Chef’s Special.

Yield: serves 2

¹⁄₄ cup mayonnaise
¹⁄₄ cup rocoto paste
1 tsp. fresh lime juice
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 ají amarillo or banana pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
6 white button mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 (1"-piece) ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 ripe tomato, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 slices Monterey Jack cheese
2 (6") rectangular ciabatta buns, split and toasted
1 cup arugula
¹⁄₄ cup cilantro leaves

Instructions

Whisk together mayonnaise, rocoto, and lime juice in a small bowl; set aside. Heat oil in a 14″ wok or skillet over high heat. Add onion, bell pepper, and ají amarillo; cook, stirring constantly, until soft and blistered at edges, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Place mushrooms in wok and cook, stirring constantly, until browned, 2–3 minutes. Add garlic and ginger; cook for 1–2 minutes. Add soy sauce and vinegar, cook for 30 seconds, and transfer to bowl with onions and peppers. Add tomatoes to bowl, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.
Place 2 slices of cheese on the bottom half of each bun, and top with half the vegetable mixture. Pour rocoto sauce over vegetables, and top with arugula and cilantro. Cover with top buns.

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The Dagwood

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:33:23 +0000

Take inspiration from the comic strip "Blondie" to make your own catchall sandwich with goods from the Thanksgiving table like greens, turkey, cheese, cranberry sauce, and more. See the recipe for The Dagwood ». Todd Coleman

This catchall for whatever ingredients you might have on hand was inspired by the towering sandwich that the character Dagwood in the syndicated comic strip “Blondie” liked to eat. This recipe first appeared with the article Say My Name.

Yield: serves 1

2 tbsp. yellow mustard
3 slices rye sandwich bread
1 tbsp. mayonnaise
4 slices deli ham
2 slices American cheese
2 leaves iceberg lettuce
4 slices bologna
4 slices salami
6 dill pickle chips
3 slices tomato
4 slices turkey
2 slices Swiss cheese
2 pimiento-stuffed green olives

Instructions

Spread mustard on 2 slices of bread and mayonnaise on the third. Place ham on a mustard-covered slice, and top with cheese, lettuce, bologna, the second mustard-covered slice, salami, pickle chips, tomato, turkey, Swiss cheese, and last bread slice, mayonnaise side down. Cut sandwich in half, and skewer an olive on top of each half with a toothpick.

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Banh Mi (Vietnamese-Style Sandwich)

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:55 +0000

Banh Mi Sandwich. Todd Coleman

According to Andrea Nguyen, author of Into the Vietnamese Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2006), the baguette for this iconic Vietnamese sandwich “should be light and airy, with a very delicate crumb that does not fight you, but just frames the sandwich.” This recipe first appeared in our April 2011 special Sandwich Issue with Nguyen’s article Street Hero.

Yield: serves 4

Ingredients

For the Seasoned Pork

1 tsp. canola oil
1 tbsp. finely chopped yellow onion
12 oz. ground pork
2 tbsp. hoisin sauce
2 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
¹⁄₂ tsp. Asian-style hot sauce
¹⁄₂ tsp. Chinese five-spice powder
¹⁄₂ tsp. red food coloring
¹⁄₄ tsp. onion powder
¹⁄₄ tsp. garlic powder
¹⁄₄ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

For the Slaw and Serving

¹⁄₄ cup distilled white vinegar
¹⁄₄ cup sugar
¹⁄₂ cup julienned carrots
¹⁄₂ cup daikon radish
Kosher salt, to taste
4 10" Vietnamese baguettes or Portuguese rolls, split
¹⁄₂ cup mayonnaise
8 1/8"-thick slices Vietnamese-style pork roll (cha lua) or bologna
8 1/8"-thick slices Vietanmese-style salami or ham
¹⁄₂ cup cilantro sprigs
¹⁄₂ medium English cucumber, cut lengthwise into 4 thick slices
Asian-style chile oil, to taste

Instructions

Make the slaw: Bring vinegar, sugar, and ½ cup water to a boil in a 2-qt. saucepan over high heat; transfer to a medium bowl. Stir in carrots, radish, and salt, and set the slaw aside for 30 minutes. Drain.
Make the seasoned pork: Heat oil in a 10″ nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring often, until soft, 2-3 minutes. Add pork, hoisin, 2 tsp. soy sauce, sesame oil, hot sauce, five-spice powder, food coloring, onion and garlic powders, and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until browned, 5-6 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
Heat oven to 400°. Place baguettes on a baking sheet and spread 1 tbsp. mayonnaise inside both halves. Bake until hot and slightly crisped, about 5 minutes. Remove from oven and divide seasoned pork evenly between baguettes. Top each with 2 slices pork roll, 2 slices salami, 1 tsp. soy sauce, ¼ of the cilantro, and 1 cucumber slice. Season with more pepper and chile oil, and top with the slaw. Close sandwiches.

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Pok Pok (Thai-Style Ice Cream Sandwich)

Organic — Mon, 08 Jul 2013 17:00:00 +0000

Chef Pichet Ong, of Spot Dessert Bar in New York City, gave us this recipe for pok pok, an ice cream sandwich based on those he ate as a child in Bangkok. See the recipe for Pok Pok ». Todd Coleman

Chef Pichet Ong gave us this recipe for pok pok, an ice cream sandwich based on those he ate as a child in Bangkok. Hard-to-find ingredients can be found at Kalustyans, Grocery Thai, and eFoodDepot. This recipe first appeared in our April 2011 special Sandwich Issue with author Christopher Tan’s article Special Treats.

Yield: serves 4

2 14-oz. cans coconut milk
1 cup desiccated coconut
¹⁄₂ cup sugar
¹⁄₄ tsp. kosher salt
1 frozen pandan leaf
1 tbsp. vanilla extract
4 soft hot dog buns
¹⁄₄ cup canned corn
¹⁄₄ cup sweet gingko nuts
¹⁄₄ cup nata de coco, drained
¹⁄₄ cup palm seeds, rinsed
2 passion fruits
1 large, crisp chocolate chip cookie, roughly crushed
3 tbsp. toasted cashews, chopped
3 tbsp. sweetened condensed milk

Instructions

Bring coconut milk, coconut, sugar, salt, and pandan leaf to a boil in a 2-qt. saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring, until sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; let steep for 1 hour. Discard pandan leaf. Transfer to a bowl and stir in vanilla; chill. Process mixture in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions, then transfer to a plastic container and freeze.
To serve, place three small scoops of ice cream in each bun and top with 1 tbsp. each corn, gingko nuts, nata de coco, and palm seeds. Scoop out juice and seeds from fruits, and divide among sandwiches; top with 1⁄4 of the crushed cookie and cashews. Drizzle milk over each sandwich.

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Pulled Pork Italiano

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:11 +0000

Pulled Pork Italiano. Todd Coleman

DiNic’s, in Philadelphia, serves this sandwich of luscious wine- and herb-braised pulled pork, sharp provolone, and roasted long hot peppers.This recipe first appeared in our April 2011 special Sandwich Issue with the article Sandwich City.

Yield: serves 8

3 tbsp. ground fennel seeds
3 tbsp. dried parsley
1 ¹⁄₂ tbsp. dried thyme
3 ¹⁄₂ tsp. crushed red chile flakes, plus more
1 (6-7-lb.) pork shoulder, butterflied
3 sprigs rosemary, stemmed and finely chopped
1 head garlic, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 cups beef stock
¹⁄₂ cup red wine
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
¹⁄₂ cup canned crushed tomatoes
2 lb. broccoli rabe
¹⁄₄ cup canola oil
32 slices sharp provolone
8 (12″) crusty Italian rolls, split
24 roasted long hot peppers

Instructions

Heat oven to 450°. Combine fennel, parsley, thyme, and 3 tsp. chile flakes in a small bowl; set aside. Open pork shoulder on a work surface, and spread with half of herb mixture, rosemary, 1⁄4 of the chopped garlic, salt, and pepper. Roll up shoulder, tie with kitchen twine at 1″ intervals to secure, and season out-side with remaining herb mixture, salt, and pepper. Transfer to a roasting pan and roast until browned, about 40 minutes. Remove pan from oven, and heat broiler. Add remaining garlic to pan, along with stock, wine, onion, and bay leaf; pour tomatoes over top and sides of pork shoulder. Broil until tomatoes are caramelized, about 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325°, cover pork with parchment paper, and cover roasting pan with aluminum foil. Cook until internal temperature of pork reaches 165°, about 2 hours. Set aside to cool.
Transfer pork to cutting board, and remove bay leaf from pan. Transfer juices to a blender and purée; transfer to a 4-qt. saucepan and keep warm. Pull pork apart into large pieces and add to pan juices.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, and add broccoli rabe. Cook, stirring, until just tender, 2–3 minutes. Drain and transfer to a bowl of ice water to cool. Drain, and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Heat oil in a 12″ skillet. Working in batches if necessary, add remaining chile flakes and broccoli rabe and cook, stirring, until crisp and warmed through, about 4 minutes. Set aside.
Place 4 slices provolone on bottom half of each roll, and top with pork. Add broccoli rabe and peppers.

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Mozzarella Cheese Dream Sandwich

Organic — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:48:07 +0000

See the Recipe. Todd Coleman

The ultimate grilled cheese sandwich, according to author Francine Prose, includes Aleppo pepper, which adds a dimension of spiciness to balance the tangy sourdough bread and the creamy mozzarella. This recipe first appeared with the article Dreamy Good.

Yield: serves 1

2 tsp. olive oil
2 (¹⁄₄″-thick) slices fresh mozzarella
2 slices sourdough bread
¹⁄₄ tsp. Aleppo pepper

Instructions

Heat oil in a 10″ nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Place mozzarella between slices of bread, and add to skillet. Press sandwich with a spatula or plate and cook, adding more oil if needed and turning once, until golden brown and cheese is melted, 6–8 minutes. Sprinkle with pepper before serving.

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