casseroles | Saveur

Baked Macaroni with Goat Cheese, Spinach, and Tomatoes

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:12 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This baked macaroni and cheese recipe with fresh chèvre, spinach, and tomatoes starts on the stovetop and finishes in the oven. The creamy sauce stays gooey and velvety, while the cheese sprinkled on top turns crisp and golden-brown. Elbow macaroni is an optimal vessel for the sauce, but any hollow pasta shape will work.

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Kosher salt
8 oz. elbow macaroni
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
2 cups baby spinach
1¾ cups fresh goat cheese, divided
Freshly ground black pepper
4 medium plum tomatoes, thinly sliced

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the macaroni and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened but still firm, about 3 minutes. Drain the macaroni and set aside.
Return the pot to medium heat, add the butter, and when it has nearly melted, whisk in the flour to make a smooth paste. Add the milk and cook, whisking frequently, until the sauce has thickened and coats the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the spinach and 1½ cups of goat cheese. Season the sauce to taste with salt and black pepper, then stir in the reserved macaroni. Transfer to an 8-by-8-inch baking dish, layer the tomato slices evenly over the surface, then sprinkle over the remaining goat cheese.
Place a baking sheet in the oven and set the baking dish on top. Bake until the pasta is golden-brown and bubbly, about 45 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes and serve hot.

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Moussaka (Greek Eggplant Casserole)

Aglaia Kremezi — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:15 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

A good moussaka is “one of the most fabulous things you can eat,” according to Aglaia Kremezi, author of Mediterranean Hot and Spicy. Her recipe for the Greek eggplant casserole, inherited from her mother, is a labor of love requiring sautéing, frying, boiling, and baking—but it’s well worth the trouble. The components (meat sauce, béchamel, and fried eggplant and potatoes) can be prepared the day before assembling.

Yield: 8-10

Time: 4 hours 40 minutes

2 cups plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 bay leaves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 lb. ground beef
¼ cup tomato paste
1½ tsp. ground cinnamon, divided, plus more for dusting
½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg, divided
¼ tsp. ground cloves
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups whole milk
4 large eggs
3 large eggplants, sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
5 medium russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
1 cup coarsely grated graviera cheese, or Gruyère
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large pot set over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of the oil, the bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, 5–7 minutes. Add the beef and cook until browned and all the liquid has evaporated, about 30 minutes.
Add the tomato paste, 1¼ teaspoons of the ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon of the nutmeg, and the cloves and cook until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, tomatoes, and 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until nearly all the liquid has evaporated, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat, then discard the cinnamon sticks and bay leaves. Season generously with salt and black pepper and set aside.
Meanwhile, make the béchamel: In a medium bowl, beat the eggs. Melt the butter in a medium pot set over medium-high heat. Whisk in the flour and cook until light golden, about 2 minutes. Whisk in 1½ teaspoons of salt, the milk, and the remaining cinnamon and nutmeg. Cook, whisking frequently, until thick, about 10 minutes. Ladle about 1 cup of the béchamel into the egg, then whisk to combine. Pour the egg mixture back into the pot, then whisk until smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the remaining oil. Lightly dust the eggplant slices with cinnamon slices. When the oil is hot and shimmering, working in batches, fry the eggplant (turning once) until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then add the potatoes and cook until barely tender, 8–10 minutes. Drain and transfer to an ice bath. When cool, drain and set aside.
On the bottom of a 10-by-14-inch baking dish, spread 1 cup of the béchamel. Sprinkle with ⅓ cup of the graviera. Spread the potatoes evenly over the cheese, then cover evenly with the eggplant. Pour the meat sauce over the top, then spread with the remaining béchamel. Top with the remaining graviera. Bake until bubbling and golden brown, about 1 hour.

Around the World in 26 Eggplant Recipes

Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

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Celery Root, Carrot, and Potato Gratin

Paul Cunningham — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:38:39 +0000

Photography by Anders Schonnemann

During the winter holidays, Paul Cunningham of Denmark’s Henne Kirkeby Kro likes a comforting gratin. This version is simple but satisfying: Root vegetables are seasoned with thyme and fresh bay leaves, and then simmered in cream before getting baked under a layer of bubbling Gruyère and bread crumbs.

Featured in: “An All-Night Danish Christmas Feast.”

What You Will Need

Yield: serves 8

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

5 oz. Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated (1¼ cup)
2 cups plain bread crumbs, preferably homemade
2 cups heavy cream
4 large russet potatoes, peeled and sliced ¼ in. thick
4 large carrots, peeled and sliced into ¼-in.-thick coins
1 small celery root (1 lb.), peeled, halved, and sliced ¼ in. thick
1 large yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
8 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
8 tbsp. unsalted butter
4 fresh bay leaves
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a medium bowl, toss the Gruyère and the bread crumbs to combine. Set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. To a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the cream, potatoes, carrots, celery root, onion, garlic, thyme, butter, bay leaves, and salt. When the liquid begins to boil, turn the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender but not yet breaking apart, about 18 minutes. Stir in additional salt and black pepper to taste.
Sprinkle the breadcrumb-cheese mixture over the vegetables and bake until the gratin is bubbling in the center and the top is golden brown, about 30 minutes. Cool the gratin for at least 10 minutes before serving, to firm it up slightly.

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Cassoulet de Seiches à la Gruissanaise (Cuttlefish Cassoulet with Pork Sausage)

SAVEUR Editors — Wed, 08 Sep 2021 20:12:28 +0000

Kat Craddock

In centuries past, at the end of winter, the pantries of Southern French families living in Gruissan were quite bare. A few dried beans, a piece of pork confit or a sausage, a glug of tomato coulis: a bit of everything but not enough to make a hearty dish. That was without counting on the richness of the sea. It’s said that one day, a local fisherman returned home with the first cuttlefish of the season; inspiration struck, and his wife decided to combine land and sea. This version, which is adapted from the one served at La Cambuse du Saunier Gruissan, gets its freshness from a swirl of garlicky persillade sauce. Ask your fishmonger to clean the cuttlefish bodies for you. Tender and buttery lingot beans cook more quickly than the larger Tarbais variety—look for them at well-stocked specialty markets, or order online from Kalustyan’s.

Featured in: “It May Be September, But We’re Not Done Drinking Rosé.”

Yield: serves 8

Time: 3 hours 15 minutes

5 lb. (2¼ lb.) dried white lingot beans, soaked overnight
Fine sea salt
2 tbsp. (1 oz.) duck fat
Two 6-in. Toulouse sausages (8 oz.), or substitute any fresh, mild pork sausage
5 oz. boneless pork loin
¼ cups persillade sauce, plus more for serving (or substitute 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil; and ½ cup finely chopped Italian parsley)
2 medium tomatoes (10 oz.), finely chopped
1 medium yellow onion (9 oz.), finely chopped
1 cup tomato purée
2¼ lb. whole small cuttlefish, or large cuttlefish bodies, cut in wide strips
Crusty bread, for serving

Instructions

Drain the beans and rinse well, then transfer to a large pot. Add cold water to cover by 2 inches, bring to a boil over high heat, then season lightly with salt, lower the heat to simmer, and cook until the beans are just barely al dente, 35–40 minutes. Drain, reserving their cooking liquid, and set aside.
Preheat the oven (with one of its racks positioned in the center) to 300°F.
In a cassole or medium dutch oven over medium heat, melt the duck fat. When hot, add the sausages and cook, turning occasionally, until browned all over, 10–12 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Add the pork loin to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until evenly browned, 12–14 minutes; transfer to the plate with the sausages and set aside. Turn the heat to medium-high, then, working in batches to avoid crowding, add the cuttlefish and sear all over until just until firm and lightly browned, 2–4 minutes per batch. Transfer to the plate with the meat and set aside. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and just beginning to brown at the edges, 5–7 minutes. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée, and the persillade sauce and cook until the juices are thickened and concentrated, about 5 minutes more.
Assemble the cassoulet: Stir the reserved beans into the vegetable mixture. Return the meat and the cuttlefish to the pot, tucking the pieces in below the surface as much as possible. And 2 cups of the reserved bean-cooking liquid. (The beans and meat should rise just barely above the surface of the liquid; if necessary, add a bit more water.) Bring to a simmer, then carefully transfer to the oven and continue cooking until the beans and cuttlefish are very tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 1½ hours. Serve hot, with additional persillade sauce and and crusty bread on the side.

Cooking Cassoulet in Gascony

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Baked Fish in Tahini Sauce (Siniyet samak bil tahineh)

Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley — Fri, 20 Nov 2020 20:23:34 +0000

Jenny Zarins

According to Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley, authors of the Palestinian cookbook, Falastin, preparing fish with dairy is not common in Arabic cuisine, as it’s not considered to be healthy. Therefore, tahini often steps in to fulfill the enriching role butter or cream might have otherwise played. If you’d like to get a head start on the dish, both the tahini sauce and the cooked onions can be prepared up to three days in advance.

Featured in: “Palestinian Pantry Staples We Can’t Live Without“

Equipment

Yield: 4-6

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Ingredients

For the tahini sauce

¹⁄₂ cup plus 2 Tbsp. (5¼ oz.) tahini
2 medium garlic cloves, coarsely chopped (2 tsp.)
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt

For the fish

¹⁄₄ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 medium onions, thinly sliced (3⅓ cups)
Six 5¼-oz. cod, hake, or halibut fillets
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
1½ tsp. ground cumin, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¹⁄₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
2 medium-hot green chiles, such as serrano or jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced (⅓ cup)
3 Tbsp. pine nuts
¹⁄₂ cup coarsely chopped Italian parsley leaves
1 tsp. ground sumac
Lemon wedges, to serve

Instructions

Make the tahini sauce: In a medium bowl, whisk together the tahini, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and ¼ cup cold water to make a thick and creamy sauce. Set aside.
To a large skillet over medium-low heat, add 3 tablespoons of olive oil; when the oil is hot, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, 10–12 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons cool water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions have completely softened but have not taken on any color, 8–10 minutes more. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Meanwhile, in a large, shallow bowl, stir together the lemon juice and zest, and ½ teaspoon cumin; season to taste with salt and black pepper, then add the cod fillets and turn several times to coat. Set aside to marinate at room temperature for 10 minutes. (Don’t leave it for much longer than this, otherwise the fish will start to break down.)
To a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the remaining oil. Sprinkle the flour over a large plate and, one at a time, lift the fish pieces from the marinade and lightly dredge in the flour. Add the fish to the skillet (without crowding the pan) and cook, turning once halfway through, just until both sides are golden, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the fish to a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and set aside.
Stir the cooled onions and the chiles into the reserved tahini sauce, then pour the sauce over the fish, smoothing the surface with the back of a spoon. Sprinkle with the pine nuts, transfer to the oven, and roast until the fish is just cooked through, 6–8 minutes. Switch the oven to the broiler setting and continue cooking until browned and bubbly, about 3 minutes more. Sprinkle with parsley and sumac and serve warm or at room temperature, with lemon wedges on the side.

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Our 7 Best Stuffing Recipes For Holiday Dinners

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:33:39 +0000

It doesn’t matter if you’re making stuffing (cooked in the bird) or dressing (baked alongside it). Because either way, none of our favorite Thanksgiving turkey recipes is complete without this counterpart. So, when planning your Thanksgiving dinner ideas, don’t leave out these staples from the feasting table. With recipes like traditional Southern cornbread dressing, or savory apple, sage and sausage stuffing, our best Thanksgiving stuffing and dressing recipes will be an amazing addition to your Thanksgiving dishes.

Cornbread Stuffing

Parsnips and dried cherries add a sweetness that offsets the savory mushrooms and sausage. Save time by using store-bought cornbread instead of homemade. Get the recipe for Cornbread Stuffing »

Lard Bread Stuffing

Lard Bread Dressing

Ciabatta and Sausage Stuffing

This rustic stuffing from Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bistro is made with crusty Italian bread and laced with fresh herbs, aromatics, and sausage. Get the recipe for Ciabatta and Sausage Stuffing »

Apple, Sage, and Sausage Stuffing

A combination of apples and sausage lends a nice sweet-savory balance to a simple stuffing enhanced with sage.

Classic Stuffing

Nutmeg and savory—two seasonings commonly found in 19th-century stuffing recipes—add subtly sweet and herbal notes to this dish. Get the recipe for Classic Stuffing »

Cornbread Dressing

This dressing is the perfect accompaniment to roast turkey. Rather than cooking it in the bird, cook it in a baking dish or cast-iron skillet and serve it on the side. Get the recipe for Cornbread Dressing »

Oyster Stuffing

We’ve always been partial to traditional New England–style stuffing, particularly when it’s made with French bread, smoky cured pork, and oysters.

The post Our 7 Best Stuffing Recipes For Holiday Dinners appeared first on Saveur.

Tamale Pie

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:46 +0000

Ground beef and vegetables are spiced with chili powder and cumin under a tender cornmeal crust in this casserole. Get the recipe for Tamale Pie. Jessie YuChen

We adore this homey American classic, a Super Bowl party favorite. The casserole calls for sandwiching spiced ground beef and vegetables between layers of cornmeal crust.

Equipment

Yield: serves 6

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Kosher salt
2¼ cups coarse cornmeal
2 Tbsp. bacon drippings or vegetable oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped (2 cups)
1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped (1½ cups)
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1¼ lb. lean ground beef
1 Tbsp. chili powder
½ tsp. ground cumin
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 2½-quart baking dish with 1 tablespoon butter; set aside. In a medium pot, add 1 quart water and 2 teaspoons salt; bring to a boil. Gradually add the cornmeal, whisking vigorously, then reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring often, until thick, 8–10 minutes. Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Spoon half the cornmeal mixture into the prepared dish. Using the back of a wet spoon, spread out the cornmeal mixture until the bottom and sides of the dish are completely covered; set aside. Cover the remaining cornmeal mixture to keep warm; set aside.
In a large skillet, heat the drippings over medium. Add the onion, bell pepper, and garlic; cook, stirring often, until softened, 7–8 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high; add the beef, chili powder, and cumin; cook until the meat is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and a pinch of salt; continue cooking until most of the liquid has evaporated, 6–8 minutes more.
Spoon the filling over the cornmeal mixture in the dish, then top with the remaining cornmeal mixture, spreading it out with the back of a wet spoon to cover. Bake until the top is crisp and sides are bubbling, 30–35 minutes.

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Best One-Dish Meals

Organic

Enjoy less cleanup with SAVEUR magazine’s 18 recipes for best one-dish meals. Find stews, casseroles, pasta dishes, fish dishes and more.

Whole Roasted Red Snapper

Our favorite method for whole roasted fish is a Portuguese-inspired preparation that combines red snapper, sausage, potatoes, clams, olives, and fennel. See this Recipe

Cassoulet

The hearty, meat-studded dish from southwestern France known as cassoulet may be the ultimate one-pot meal. See the recipe for Cassoulet »

Lamb, Quince, and Okra Tagine

Quince is an autumn fruit. If you can’t wait until fall to make this stew, you might substitute tart green apples, though they’re not traditional. See this Recipe

Chicken ‘Osso Buco’ with Penne

This is our version of chef Michel Richard’s creation from Home Food: 44 Great American Chefs Cook 160 Recipes on Their Night Off. See this Recipe

Cioppino

Cioppino is undeniably a San Francisco original, made famous in the 1850s by Genoese immigrant Giuseppe Bazzuro at his eponymous restaurant. See this Recipe

Vegetable-Stuffed Rolled Flank Steak

Oven-cooked meats, which work their wonders without much intervention, are a boon to home cooks. See this Recipe

Acadian Seafood Gumbo

Gumbos are a staple of Acadian cuisine, evolving over many years as new ingredients and techniques enlivened generations-old recipes. See this Recipe

Chicken Pot Pie

We adapted this recipe for rich, old-fashioned pot pie from James Beard’s American Cookery. See this Recipe

Shrimp and Oyster Perloo

This Lowcountry specialty is our favorite one-pot rice dish. See this recipe for Shrimp and Oyster Perloo

Grilled Chicken Curry

This recipe has been passed down through generations of the family of Ibu Rohati, a Padang native we met while exploring Indonesia. See this Recipe

Sweet Sausage and Broccoli Rabe with Cranberry Beans

In autumn, markets in Italy begin to fill with such staple winter vegetables as broccoli rabe. See this Recipe

Chicken Sauce Piquante

Tender, mild chicken combines perfectly with the bite of cayenne in this Acadian favorite. See this Recipe

Burgundian Beef Stew

The secret to this classic Burgundian stew¿that distinctive, almost velvety sauce-is not in the prestige of the cut of beef or the bottle of wine, it’s all in the cooking. See this Recipe

Fish Veracruz-Style

This ubiquitous Veracruz sauce, most often served with huachinango, or red snapper, features olives, jalapenos, and, on special occasions, capers. See this Recipe

Hunter’s Wife’s Chicken

America knows this Italian favorite as chicken cacciatore (hunter’s-style), but it’s really alla cacciatora, named in honor of the hunter’s wife. See this Recipe

Moroccan Chicken Stew

This dish is akin to the long-cooked North African clay-pot dish known as a tagine. See this Recipe

Meat and Pastry Casserole

The French-Canadian restaurant La Ferme Enchantee gave us its version of this hearty, traditional stew. See this Recipe

Vegetarian Lasagne

This is a vegetarian take on the classic, creamy lasagna bolognese.

The post Best One-Dish Meals appeared first on Saveur.

Our Best Casserole Recipes to Curb Your Next Comfort-Food Craving

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:35:23 +0000

A good moussaka—a baked casserole of eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, and minced lamb or beef under a lush layer of béchamel sauce—is one of the most fabulous things you can eat. Get the recipe for Moussaka ». Matt Taylor-Gross

Casserole recipes are delightful for many reasons—they’re versatile and hearty, they provide leftovers for days, and are, for the most part, easy to make. There’s something particularly satisfying about piling layers of noodles between cheese sauce or baking green beans into a creamy broth topped with crisped onions. They’re the ultimate comfort food in the fall and winter once the weather cools down. And of course, everyone knows one of the best ways to eat a sweet potato is in a casserole topped with marshmallows and pecans. Similar to our favorite comfort foods like best stuffed pasta recipes and best baked pasta, our best casserole recipes will have you wishing the weather would always stay chilly.

Seafood Bubbly Bake

Haddock, lobster, and scallops combine in a creamy baked seafood casserole from North Rustico Harbour’s Blue Mussel Cafe; any combination of seafood—cod, clams, mussels, shrimp—will work just as well. This seafood casserole recipe first appeared in our October 2013 issue with the article Where the Farm Meets the Sea. Get the recipe for Seafood Bubbly Bake »

Turkey Tetrazzini

Crab Gratin with Anchovies and Västerbotten Cheese

Brisket and Potato Kugel

Green Bean Casserole

This green bean casserole is an adaptation of the classic Campbell’s recipe. Get the recipe for Green Bean Casserole »

Sweet Potato Casserole with Pecan Crumble

This sweet potato casserole is an especially festive, over-the-top take on the Thanksgiving classic, topped with a crisp pecan crumble and dotted with marshmallows. Get the recipe for Sweet Potato Casserole with Pecan Crumble »

Portuguese Salted Cod, Egg, and Potato Baked Casserole

The olive oily layers of thinly sliced potatoes, hardboiled eggs, and homemade salt cod in this Portuguese “casserole” are just as good for breakfast as dinner. Get the recipe for Portuguese Salted Cod, Egg, and Potato Baked Casserole »

Roasted Vegetable and Cod Casserole

Haricots Verts Casserole

Sherry vinegar balances the richness in the cream sauce for this Thanksgiving staple, which is topped with crispy shallots. Get the recipe for Haricots Verts Casserole »

Van Valkenberg Hot Slaw

Coleslaw gets a makeover as a filling and hearty casserole that test kitchen assistant Sarah Ruth Maier grew up eating at family functions. Get the recipe for Van Valkenberg Hot Slaw »

French Bacon, Potato, and Reblochon Casserole (Tartiflette)

Reblochon, a soft washed-rind cheese from the French Alps, adds a luxurious creaminess and delicious pungency to this simple bacon and potato gratin. Get the recipe for French Bacon, Potato, and Reblochon Casserole (Tartiflette) »

Macaroni au Gratin

The foundation of this creamy casserole is a classic mornay sauce, a béchamel sauce to which cheese has been added—in this case, Comté, a French cheese with a complex, nutty flavor that melts beautifully. Get the recipe for Macaroni au Gratin »

The post Our Best Casserole Recipes to Curb Your Next Comfort-Food Craving appeared first on Saveur.

3 Midwestern Rules for Every Home Kitchen

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:33:30 +0000

“I love my mom with an almost scary fierceness,” writes Amy Thielen in her funny, straight-shooting memoir Give a Girl a Knife (Clarkson Potter, May 2017). In it, the James Beard Award winner, cookbook author, and SAVEUR contributor traces her path from small-town Minnesota to the cutthroat lines of Manhattan’s finest restaurants—where she worked under Daniel Boulud, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and David Bouley—and back again.

Throughout, she recalls lessons from Karen, her no-nonsense Midwestern mother, who helped guide her along the way. Here, three kernels of inherited wisdom from the book that every cook should know.

1. How to Clean a Countertop

When I was 9 years old, my mom taught me how to wipe the countertop in the following very specific way: You soak the washcloth in steaming-hot water, wring it out hard with both hands so that it no longer drips, then stretch the cloth flat on the countertop and lay your hand on it, middle finger pointing toward a corner, that corner flipped back up over your fingers like a toboggan. This way, when you wipe (and if you haven’t seen this demonstrated, let me tell you, it’s a goddamned miracle), the corner of the cloth stays up over your hand.

“With a flat expanse of cloth, you can pick up crumbs,” my mom stressed. Her face, hanging above the shiny surface, was smooth and contented. Not joyous, not sad, but what you might call Placid Wiping Face. Unconsciously I absorbed the look of spine-tingling satisfaction she gave the gleaming countertop and knew it contained something even greater: hope for tomorrow and its many projects. If you’re despondent about the future, you don’t wipe like that.

2. Butter Rules the Midwest. Always.

My mom’s butter dish was always there in the center of the kitchen, a prima donna presiding over all. I remember charting the two sticks’ diminishment through the day: going, going, gone…then miraculously replenished. Even throughout the fatphobic eighties, never once was an ounce of guilt attached to its use. Just as my grandma did, my mom made a proud acchh noise in her throat—automatic dismissal of any imaginary detractors—as she scooped it up in huge, glossy lumps.

Where others used milk or stock to moisten, she used butter: on dry mashed potatoes, on top of lasagna, on leftover braised beef. Nothing went into the microwave for reheating without a dollop of the yellow pomade schmeared on top. My mom’s dish of room-temperature butter was more than a mere cooking fat, it was an ointment, filling, spackle, emotional salve, as essential to combating the deep Minnesota winter as lotion.

3. The Power of Hotdish

One summer after a trip to France, we reunited to make the food for my brother Bob’s firstborn’s baptismal party. How we could return from an eating tour like that (a gastronaut’s blowout by anyone’s standards) and come to stand in my mother’s apartment kitchen in St. Paul stirring a vat of diced chicken and canned water chestnuts glued together with murky, industrial, carrageenan-rich canned “soup,” the essential fixative in the Midwestern hotdish, is a total puzzler. And yet, here we are. I have pinned my knee into a yellow-flowered vinyl chair for leverage, because dragging a spoon through this quantity of chicken-chunk mixture is as hard as rowing a boat into the wind. I am amazed by the sounds coming out of it. Pleef! it gasses, making the very same sound your sweaty lower back does when it disengages from a hot vinyl seatback.

Like an elementary-school kid, I burst out laughing and say, “What did this thing eat?” But now my mom is crushing bags of crispy kettle chips and then raking them over the surface of the hotdish so that they will brown into an even gold crown across the top, and I have to admit, it is impossible not to pinch off a chip, its bottom soaked in a salty, sticky, implausibly delicious cream. What we are making is one gigantic, addictive dip. It’ll take the two of us to pull this sucker out of the oven.

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