Onions & Scallions | Saveur

Cake d’Alsace (Bacon, Gruyère, and Caramelized Onion Loaf)

Aleksandra Crapanzano — Fri, 21 Jul 2023 14:59:34 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

“Cake salé” is a catch-all term for the humble savory loaves popular among French home cooks. This Alsace-inspired variation, studded with bacon, Gruyère, and caramelized onion, tastes great straight from the oven, but it’s even better reheated (cooling it completely tenderizes the crumb). Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.

Featured in “Is This Humble Dish France’s Best-Kept Culinary Secret?” by Emily Monaco.

Yield: Makes 1 loaf

Time: 1 hour 35 minutes

5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus more as needed
8 oz. bacon, cut crosswise into ¼-in. lardons
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 cup full-fat (whole) buttermilk
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
2 large eggs, preferably at room temperature
2½ cups all-purpose flour (10½ oz.)
1½ tsp. baking powder
¾ tsp. fine salt
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
8 oz. grated Comté, Gruyère, or aged cheddar (2 cups)
3 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Butter and flour a metal 9-by-5-inch loaf pan, tapping out any excess flour.
In a large skillet set over low heat, cook the lardons until golden brown and their fat has rendered, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a small bowl.
To the pan with the rendered fat, add the onion and turn the heat to medium. (If the pan looks dry, add a tablespoon of butter.) Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, oil, and eggs, then whisk in the melted butter.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda, and black pepper. Stir in the cheese, parsley, and reserved bacon. Add the buttermilk mixture, then use a silicone spatula to fold together the wet and dry ingredients until no streaks of flour remain.
Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean or with a few crumbs attached, 45–50 minutes. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before unmolding, then serve warm or at room temperature.

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Changua

Megan Zhang — Wed, 28 Jun 2023 00:40:00 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY JESSIE YUCHEN; PROP STYLING BY KIM GRAY

Since the early 1800s, the tiny, beloved restaurant La Puerta Falsa in Bogotá has been serving traditional homestyle Colombian fare, with a short menu featuring tamales, ajiaco, and—the one that stayed with me the most—changua. A milky soup bobbing with jammy eggs, hunks of bread, and pungent alliums, changua is a belly-warming breakfast with an interesting amalgamation of textures and flavors. This changua recipe is adapted from the version served at La Puerta Falsa.

For the bread, almojábanas and pandebono (two Colombian varieties made with cheese), as well as calados (a type of stale bread), are popular choices—look for them at a Colombian bakery, or online. Day-old crusty country loaves or baguettes are also typical.

For the cheese, Bogotana chef Alejandra Cubillos González recommends queso Colombiano or queso campesino. When she can’t find these, she sometimes substitutes cheese curds. Or, use halloumi or low-moisture mozzarella, as Colombiana cookbook author Mariana Velasquez suggests. Though adding cheese—as Puerta Falsa does—is common, the dish is just as often made without it, depending on region and personal preference.

Featured in, “This Milky, Eggy, Cheesy Soup Comes to the Rescue on Chilly Mornings,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 4

Time: 20 minutes

3 cups 2-percent milk
3 scallions, two halved lengthwise, one finely chopped
3 cilantro sprigs, plus ¼ cup finely chopped leaves and stems
Kosher salt
6 oz. Colombian-style queso fresco, cut into ½-in. slices, optional (see headnote)
4 large eggs
6 oz. day-old bread (see headnote), cut into large bite-size pieces (3 cups, lightly packed)

Instructions

To a medium pot set over medium-high heat, add the milk, split scallions, cilantro sprigs, and 4 cups water, then lightly season with salt. When the liquid begins to boil, turn the heat to medium-low and cook at a low simmer, stirring occasionally, until the scallions are soft but still green, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the cheese if using, then crack one egg into a small cup and gently slide it into the pot; repeat with the remaining eggs. Cook, without stirring, until the whites are set and the yolks are jammy, 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Season the broth with more salt to taste.
Using tongs, discard the split scallion and cilantro sprigs. Into four serving bowls, place a few chunks of bread, then divide the soup among the bowls. Top with the chopped scallion and cilantro and serve.

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Scotch Bonnet Hot Sauce

SAVEUR Editors — Thu, 23 May 2019 18:06:40 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY VICTORIA GRANOF; PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN

While whimsical-looking Scotch bonnet chiles have a flavorful fruitiness, they also pack a capsaicin punch that can easily overwhelm a dish. A fresh, Caribbean-style pepper sauce, tempered with sweet tropical fruit, is a great way to make the most of the fiery peppers. This hot sauce originally ran alongside Korsha Wilson’s guide to traditional Jamaican-style jerk cooking. (If you can’t find coconut vinegar, a staple in Caribbean cooking, white wine vinegar is a suitable substitute.)

Featured in: “Master Jamaican Jerk with Our Definitive Guide.”

Yield: makes about 2 cups

Time: 10 minutes

6 Scotch bonnet chiles, stemmed
2 cups chopped fresh mango
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 chopped red onion
1 Tbsp. honey
2 tsp. whole allspice berries
1 tsp. mustard powder
¼ cups plus 2 Tbsp. coconut vinegar
Kosher salt

Instructions

To a blender, add the chiles, mango, garlic, onion, honey, allspice, and mustard powder. Pulse to break down the ingredients slightly, then add the coconut vinegar and blend until lightly chunky. Season to taste with salt. Use immediately, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 10 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.

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Rhubarb Red Onion Chutney

Anna Lise Kvan — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:37 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross

Rhubarb Red Onion Chutney Matt Taylor-Gross

This rhubarb red onion chutney recipe comes from Anna Lise Kvan, of Paris’s Holy Belly Café. She rightly calls it a labor of love since it requires patience and a little elbow grease—it’s important to keep stirring to make sure the rhubarb and onions caramelize without sticking. Make a big batch, so you can keep it in the fridge for up to two weeks. She suggests pairing the chutney with roasted pork cutlets or tenderloin, or spreading it on turkey, chicken, or ham sandwiches. We also like adding it to grilled cheeses and charcuterie boards.

Featured in “How to Cook With Rhubarb (Beyond Turning it Into Pie)”

Yield: Makes 2 cups

Time: 2 hours

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. olive oil
4 medium red onions, thinly sliced (7 cups)
1 tsp. fine salt
1 tsp. sugar
1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 whole cloves
6 rhubarb stalks, cut into 1⁄4-in. pieces (4 1⁄2 cups)
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest

Instructions

In a medium pot over medium heat, heat the butter and oil until the butter melts and begins to foam, about 2 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are jammy and deep brown, about 1 hour. Add the salt, sugar, black pepper, cloves, and rhubarb and turn the heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb is soft and broken down, about 50 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest.

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Yang Chun Mian (Chinese Soy Sauce Noodles)

Megan Zhang — Tue, 28 Mar 2023 21:55:00 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MURRAY HALL; FOOD STYLING BY OLIVIA MACK MCCOOL; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

In Shanghai and the surrounding Jiangnan region (the geographic area south of the Yangtze River) in Eastern China, mornings often start with a steaming bowl of yang chun mian. The light, slurpable Chinese dish is easy to whip up—simply add the seasonings directly to a serving bowl, then ladle the hot broth and cooked noodles right in. For the chicken stock, which is the base of the dish, homemade is unbeatable—though a good-quality, low-sodium broth works in a pinch. Lard, a key component of any traditional yang chun mian recipe, contributes richness and flavor; if you don’t have any on hand, swap in toasted sesame oil for a fragrant and pork-free substitute. A dash of MSG further heightens the savoriness of the dish. Look for fresh thin wheat noodles at your local Asian grocer or online; they might be labeled gua mian, or long xu mian (the latter means “dragon whiskers noodles”). If you can’t find the fresh version, feel free to swap in 3½ ounces dried wheat noodles, which are sometimes called gua mian, adjusting the cook time according to the package instructions.

Featured in, “I Make These Breakfast Noodles When I Want to Transport to My Ancestral Homeland.” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 2

Time: 20 minutes

7 oz. fresh thin wheat noodles
2 Tbsp. light soy sauce
2 tsp. lard
1 tsp. dark soy sauce
¼ tsp. MSG
¼ tsp. sugar
2 cups chicken stock
1 scallion, trimmed and thinly sliced

Instructions

Bring a medium pot of water to boil, then add the noodles and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but firm, 2–3 minutes. Drain the noodles and set aside. Return the pot to the stove.
Meanwhile, divide the light soy sauce, lard, dark soy sauce, MSG, and sugar evenly between two serving bowls and set aside.
To the medium pot, add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Divide the stock evenly between the serving bowls, and stir to combine. Add half of the reserved noodles to each bowl. Garnish with sliced scallion and serve hot.

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Middle Eastern Rice with Lentils, Frizzled Onions, and Lemony Yogurt Sauce

Benjamin Kemper — Fri, 10 Mar 2023 18:37:49 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling by Laura Sampedro

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s weeknight cooking column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

My all-time favorite recipe for mujaddara—that vegetarian Middle Eastern rice-and-lentil dish topped with crisp-fried onions and tangy yogurt sauce—borrows ingredients and techniques from cookbook authors like Yotam Ottolenghi and Paula Wolfert, plus skilled home cooks who let me peer over their shoulders. If you have time, toast the spices whole, then grind them yourself—it’s worth the extra step.

Yield: 6

Ingredients

For the sauce:

1 cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt
1 small garlic clove, very finely chopped
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
Ground sumac and extra-virgin olive oil, for garnish (optional)

For the rice:

Olive or vegetable oil, for frying
4 medium onions, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup basmati rice (7½ oz.), rinsed in a strainer until the water runs clear
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. ground cumin
¾ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground allspice
¼ tsp. ground turmeric
Pinch cayenne pepper, or more to taste
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp. pomegranate molasses, or 1 tsp. sugar
2½ cups cooked brown or green lentils (see footnote)
Coarsely chopped parsley leaves and/or cilantro, for garnish

Instructions

Make the sauce: In a small serving bowl, stir together the yogurt, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt to taste. Cover and refrigerate.
Make the rice: To a large pot, add 1½ cups of oil and turn the heat to high. When it’s hot and shimmering, add one third of the onions and fry, stirring occasionally, until crisp and deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Repeat with the two remaining batches of onions, then strain the oil into a heatproof container and set aside.
To the empty pot, add the coriander, cumin, cinnamon, allspice, turmeric, cayenne, garlic, and 3 tablespoons of the reserved oil and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring continuously, until fragrant, 1–2 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high and add the rice. Cook, stirring continuously, until translucent, about 2 minutes, then add 1⅔ cups of water, 2 teaspoons of salt, and the pomegranate molasses. Stir in the lentils and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is cooked and has absorbed the water, 14–19 minutes. Turn off the heat.
Use a fork to fluff the rice, then cover and let stand for 8 minutes. Stir in three quarters of the reserved onions, then scatter with the remaining onions and garnish with parsley. Uncover the yogurt sauce, sprinkle with sumac and drizzle with oil, and serve on the side.

Note: Using canned (such as Goya brand), package d, or frozen lentils in this mujaddara recipe means one fewer pot to wash, but if you can’t find them (or prefer to cook your own), boil 1 cup of lentils in a pot of well-salted water until soft but not mushy, 15–25 minutes. Drain and set aside.

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Cantonese White Cut Chicken with Ginger-Scallion Sauce

Peter Som — Tue, 21 Feb 2023 20:18:55 +0000

Photography by Peter Som

This comforting white cut chicken recipe comes from my Chinese grandmother’s spiral-bound notebook. Save the cooking liquid for another use—I like to boil it with carrots, celery, onion, and parsley to make a flavorful broth. Any leftover chicken is wonderful over rice, in salads, or turned into tacos or chicken salad.

Featured in: “In Defense of Boiled Chicken.”

Yield: 4

Time: 35 minutes

Ingredients

For the chicken:

2 Tbsp. fennel seeds
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1½ tsp. sugar
5 whole cloves
2 star anise pods
1 chicken (4 lb.), cut into 8 pieces, breasts left bone in

For the sauce:

¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
2 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. sesame oil
1 tsp. thinly sliced fresh red chile (optional)
3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, plus more for garnish

Instructions

Make the chicken: To a large pot set over high heat, add 8 cups of water, the fennel seeds, salt, sugar, cloves, and star anise and bring to a boil. Add the chicken (covering with more water if needed to fully submerge the pieces) and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a strong simmer and cook until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 165ºF and the chicken is fully cooked, 10–12 minutes. Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with ice water.
Using tongs, transfer the chicken to the ice water (discarding the aromatics) and set aside until cool, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce: In a serving bowl, whisk together the vegetable oil, ginger, salt, sesame oil, chile, and scallions.
To serve, cut the chicken breasts off the bone into 1-inch slices. Transfer to a platter along with the remaining chicken pieces. Sprinkle with scallions and accompany with the sauce. (White cut chicken may be served cold or at room temperature.)

The post Cantonese White Cut Chicken with Ginger-Scallion Sauce appeared first on Saveur.

Hora’a Osbao (Syrian Lentil Salad with Cilantro and Pita Chips)

Nora Hinnawi — Tue, 29 Nov 2022 07:39:50 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling by Laura Sampedro

Making hora’a osbao, Syrian lentil salad with cilantro and pita chips, requires a decent amount of chopping and boiling and juicing and st r aining, so give yourself time to enjoy the process. That said, to make a quicker version, use leftover lentils and pasta and store-bought pita chips in any proportion you fancy. The recipe can be doubled (or tripled or quadrupled) for a crowd. There is no be-all-end-all way to present the final dish; some cooks arrange the components in diagonal lines or concentric X’s, while others take a more freeform approach.

Featured in “The Syrian Vegan Party Dish of Your Dreams,” by Nora Hinnawi.

Yield: 4–6 as an appetizer

Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Kosher salt
⅔ cup brown lentils
1 cup ditalini, or other small dried pasta
Vegetable oil
2 pita rounds, cut into 1-in. pieces
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
2 cups coarsely chopped cilantro
¼ cup finely chopped garlic (about 11 cloves)
2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. ground sumac

Instructions

In a medium pot, bring 3 cups of generously salted water to a boil. Add the lentils, turn the heat to medium, and boil gently until soft, about 35 minutes. Strain and set aside.
Fill the empty pot halfway with generously salted water and bring it to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 5–7 minutes. Strain, return the pasta to the pot, and stir in 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil. Set aside.
While the lentils and pasta cook, make the pita chips: Into a large skillet set over medium-high heat, pour the vegetable oil to a depth of ½ inch. When it’s hot and shimmering, add the pita and fry, stirring frequently, until crisp and deep golden brown, 3–5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and sprinkle with salt. Discard the excess oil, wipe out the skillet, and return it to the stove.
To the empty skillet, add 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and the onions and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and dark brown in spots, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a plate and sprinkle with salt, then wipe out the skillet and return it to the stove.
To the empty skillet, add the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil and turn the heat to medium. Add the garlic and cilantro and cook, stirring frequently, until the cilantro is wilted and the garlic is softened but not brown, about 5 minutes.
Assemble the hora’a osbao: Onto a medium rimmed serving dish, spread the lentils in an even layer. Using a bench scraper or metal spatula, divide the lentils into four rows, leaving a gap between each. Fill the gaps with the pasta, then arrange the onion and cilantro mixtures in thin lines alongside the pasta. Decorate as desired with the pita chips, then drizzle all over with the pomegranate molasses and fresh lemon juice and sprinkle with the sumac. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

The post Hora’a Osbao (Syrian Lentil Salad with Cilantro and Pita Chips) appeared first on Saveur.

Colombian Breakfasts Are Underrated—And These Huevos Pericos Are Proof

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 09 Nov 2022 18:38:52 +0000

Photography by David Malosh; Food Styling by Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

When I’m nursing a diabolical hangover, La Caleñita—a Colombian bakery a few blocks from my apartment in Madrid—knows just how to sort me out: café con leche, warm guava turnovers, and a heaping plate of huevos pericos. These pillowy scrambled eggs, containing only scallions and fresh tomatoes, amount to what I consider alchemy. How can so few ingredients—ones you likely have in your fridge right now—combine to create so much flavor? It’s no wonder huevos pericos are a Sunday standby in Colombia and Venezuela, even if the dish is little-known abroad. All the more reason, then, to spread the word and give this 10-minute recipe a spin.

Yield: Serves 4

Time: 18 minutes

2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped (¼ cup)
3 small plum tomatoes (4 oz.), peeled and finely chopped (1½ cup); see footnote
5 large eggs, beaten
¾ tsp. kosher salt
Warm arepas and hot sauce, for serving (optional)

Instructions

To a medium nonstick skillet set over medium heat, add the oil and scallions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato and cook, stirring occasionally, until it has broken down and released most of its liquid, about 5 minutes more. Add the eggs and salt, turn the heat to medium-low, and cook, using a silicone spatula to stir occasionally, until soft curds form and the pan is nearly dry, 3–4 minutes. Serve immediately with arepas and hot sauce if desired.

Note: Plum tomatoes are firm enough that you can usually peel them using a sharp paring knife, but the skins will come off even more easily if you boil the tomatoes for 30–45 seconds.

The post Colombian Breakfasts Are Underrated—And These Huevos Pericos Are Proof appeared first on Saveur.

Tomato Salad with Scallions and Warm Brown Butter Vinaigrette

Kat Craddock — Tue, 04 Oct 2022 18:17:49 +0000

Photography by Aaron Bengochea

When U.K.-based chef Romy Gill visited the SAVEUR test kitchen a few years back, she taught us how to make and use the spice mixture, panch phoran. The blend of five whole spices—popular in Bangladesh, Nepal, and West Bengal, India—adds earthy, floral, and botanical notes to Romy’s signature turmeric-tinted chicken curry. Since then, I’ve kept a jar of the stuff in my own pantry and I’ve found myself incorporating it into poultry and vegetable dishes more than just about any other blend.

When I heard Romy was going to be back in New York promoting her new book, On the Himalayan Trail, we set a date to cook together in my apartment. In planning what I was going to make, I knew I needed to come up with a dish that spotlighted this beautiful seasoning. Our mutual friend, Nashville chef Maneet Chauhan, uses panch phoran in an incredible, sweet-and-savory tomato achaar, which she served on grilled cheese sandwiches (!!!) during a cooking class at the Charleston Wine & Food Festival. Knowing that Romy planned to make a rich and cheesy main dish, I decided to riff off the flavors in Maneet’s achaar and developed this warm tomato salad recipe.

While traditionally panch phoron is bloomed in oil or ghee, I really love the combination of tomatoes and browned butter, so I didn’t bother with clarifying the fat. That said, if you’d prefer to serve a vegan version of this dish, feel free to swap out the butter for canola or olive oil. In general, tomatoes are best stored at room temp to preserve their sweetness, and for this salad in particular, you’ll really want to be sure that you’re not starting with ingredients with any chill on them, lest the butter in the dressing seize back up. While panch phoran is easy to find in South Asian grocery stores or online, it’s also a snap to mix up a batch of your own. Find Romy’s recipe here.

Featured in: “Don’t Fear the Dinner Party: Toasting Romy Gill’s Cookbook from Home.”

Yield: 4

Time: 10 minutes

2 lb. assorted heirloom tomatoes, at room temperature and cut into bite-sized pieces
6 Tbsp. salted cultured butter
1 Tbsp. panch phoron
6 medium scallions, thinly sliced on the bias
¼ cup champagne vinegar
1 tsp. honey

Instructions

To a large, heatproof bowl, add the tomatoes and set it by the stove.
In a small, heavy pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Continue cooking, periodically using a wooden spoon to scrape the milk solids up off the bottom of the pot, until the butter is very fragrant and the solids turn a toasty golden brown, about 5 minutes. (Don’t walk away from teh stove; the butter can burn quickly.) Remove from the heat and set aside, swirling the pan occasionally, until the butter stops sizzling and cools slightly, 2–3 minutes. Add the panch phoron and stir until very fragrant and toasty, about 1 minute, then briskly stir in the scallions, vinegar, and honey. Pour the warm vinaigrette over the tomatoes and toss to coat. Serve warm.

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