In New York’s Hudson Valley, the height of summer means that the first lettuces and hearty greens of spring are finally replaced by more delicate herbs and tender vegetables at roadside stands supplied by local growers like Migliorelli Farm. This crudo with chamomile oil and cucumber salad is a celebration of those elusive seasonal delights. While “oils” often imply infusions or tinctures, this is an incredibly unfussy dish that does little to manipulate the fresh flowers. The only tool required is one of the oldest: a mortar and pestle. This tuna crudo recipe also leaves a lot of room for adaptation and substitution. “I am a stickler for sourcing, so I wait until tuna is being caught in Montauk from fishermen I trust,” explains chef Molly Levine of Westerly Canteen. “This recipe could easily sub in fluke, or halibut from the West Coast, or any other delicate fish that you would eat raw.” 

If you can’t get fresh chamomile flowers, anise hyssop, fennel, or dill flowers are excellent substitutes.

Featured in “Our New Favorite Single Malt Whisky Comes From … New York?” by Shane Mitchell.

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A street food favorite in the night markets of Thailand, this Thai green mango salad recipe, known as som tum mamuang, is a refreshing adaptation of a more widely known version made with papaya. Usually served as an appetizer, this spicy-sweet salad makes splendid use of crunchy and tart unripe mangoes.

A fruit shredder can make quick work of slicing the mangoes. A mortar and pestle is also key for extracting flavor and fragrance from the aromatics and fruit (and is a worthwhile investment for all kinds of cooking). When making this dish, cooks in Thailand traditionally use a larger mortar than what is typically found in the U.S.

This recipe originally ran in our June/July 2010 print issue with the story “Everything Is Illuminated,” by James Oseland.

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Haddock is often used for these Canadian fish cakes, though any firm white fish will do. This recipe, which has been adapted from Nova Scotia Cookery, Then and Now, creates tender cakes with golden edges. If you like, the mixture may be shaped into patties a day ahead of time and refrigerated, but for the best texture don’t roll the cakes in bread crumbs until just before frying. Green tomato chow-chow is an excellent accompaniment; find the recipe here.

This recipe is featured in “The Underexplored Roots of Black Cooking in Nova Scotia.”

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After Shirley Garrier’s family left Vietnam and settled in France, her grandmother couldn’t find the ingredients to make a classic Vietnamese bánh mì. So she bought French sardines preserved in olive oil, which were cheap but very tasty. It was a revelation. Because sardines are a fatty fish, they balanced out the sourness of the pickled vegetables and the herbaceous cilantro. To this day, Garrier remains proud of the way this sandwich exemplifies her family’s cultural background. When she and her partner in life and business, Mathieu Zouhairi, were writing their cookbook, The Social Food: Home Cooking Inspired by the Flavors of the World, they knew this canned sardine banh mi recipe had to be in it.

Though store-bought bread will work well in this sandwich, nothing beats a fresh homemade baguette. Follow this dồ chua recipe to make the Vietnamese carrot-daikon pickle at home.

This recipe is adapted from The Social Food: Home Cooking Inspired by the Flavors of the World by Shirley Garrier & Mathieu Zouhairi (Rizzoli New York; 2022).

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Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s weeknight cooking column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

Deli-case pasta salad—you know the type, gobbed with sugary mayo and flecked with bargain-bin tuna—can be grim, frightening stuff. With cookout and picnic season upon us, I wondered how I might freshen up the American side to give it a more intriguing flavor profile. The goal was to give the dish what a zoomer might call “main character energy”: pasta salad as the meal, not a sorry accessory to it.

I settled on using fresh salmon instead of tuna—a generous amount, flaked into big, juicy chunks. Then, drawing inspo from my Ashkenazi forebears, I added a few tugs of fresh dill, a glob of horseradish, and a handful of chopped pickles (plus a splash of their brine to loosen everything up). A sprinkling of caraway-scented breadcrumbs on top, and I had a recipe I could get behind. I’ve been making this salmon pasta salad on repeat for picnics, barbecues, and (since all the action happens in one pot) casual weeknight meals.

Feel free to use frozen or canned salmon in place of fresh. Poaching is the easiest way to cook the fish: Simply place the salmon in an 8-by-8-inch microwaveable pan, add ¼ cup of water, then cover and cook on high until opaque, about 8 minutes for center-cut fillets (9–12 minutes for frozen). For a more elegant presentation, transfer the drained pasta to a serving bowl in step 2.

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“Stew means something special in the Lowcountry,” says Charleston, South Carolina-based chef Amethyst Ganaway. “These smothered seafood dishes appear in a lot of those old spiral-bound fishermen’s wives’ cookbooks, but I added dawadawa and crawfish powder to this recipe, to tie it back to West African culture, where coastal communities use smoked fish to create umami.” Dawadawa, or iru, are fermented locust beans, a popular condiment in Nigerian-style soups and stews; many West African techniques and ingredients are essential aspects of Gullah Geechee cooking. Carolina Lowcountry stews often employ bacon or smoked pork for flavor, but Ganaway wanted to accentuate the freshly shucked local oysters in her meatless version; she also added rich seasonings including sun-dried tomato powder, bay leaf powder, and smoked chipotle powder. This Lowcountry brown oyster stew recipe was a highlight during a dinner Ganaway cooked at the Charleston Wine + Food Festival to honor such Gullah Geechee culinary matriarchs as Emily Meggett and Sallie Ann Robinson. 

Look for crawfish powder or dried shrimp powder at a Caribbean or African grocer, or online. Caribbean bay leaf powder, dawadawa, and sun-dried tomato powder can also be found online. When shucking the oysters, reserve the liquor (the juice that gets released from inside the shells) to incorporate the briny flavor into the stew. Season the brown oyster stew with more salt as needed before serving.

Featured in, “A Tribute to the Matriarchs of the Lowcountry.”

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Literally “tiger’s milk,” this bright and spicy citrus-based marinade is used to cure the fish in classic Peruvian ceviche. This leche de tigre recipe makes a sizable batch; leftovers can be frozen for up to a month to be repurposed in more ceviche, marinades, or even in savory drinks, like our Hair of the Tiger cocktail.

Featured in “The Secrets of Lima’s Cutting Edge Ceviche.“

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The light, Korean soup called jogaetang is served up at San Francisco’s Toyose, run by husband-and-wife team Kong Kim and Jong Yu. Short on neither heat nor spice, it’s traditionally served over a butane flame, so the broth remains hot, and a heavy dose of heat is delivered from two types of thinly sliced green chiles. Jogaetang’s popularity derives from its status as a kind of Koreatown pub grub that functions as a reset of sorts, a piping elixir that blankets the belly and washes away the effects of the night past. Find dasima in well-stocked supermarkets, Asian grocery stores, or online; a type of dried kelp frequently used for adding briny richess to stocks and sauces, it is sometimes sold by its Japanese name, konbu or kombu.

Featured in: “Korean Clam Soup for the Drunk Soul.” 

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Meaty topneck clams are the briny backbone of this two-part chowder writer Hugh Merwin developed after searching Long Island, New York for the perfect clam chowder. The two essential parts of this are first, a flavor base made from the clams, gently cooked over a long simmer to form a potent flavor base that only gets better as it ages, then second, a soup enriched with just-melted bacon fat. For best results, age the base of this soup overnight, or store in the freezer for up to one month, for the flavors to fully develop. Freezing the clams overnight makes them easier to shuck before cooking.

This recipe ran alongside the 2015 article, “In Search for the Perfect Clam Chowder.”

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This Cioppino recipe is undeniably a San Francisco original, made famous in the 1850s by Genoese immigrant Giuseppe Bazzuro at his eponymous restaurant. Derived from the traditional ciuppin—which means “little soup” in the Genoese dialect—the tomato-based seafood stew was originally a purée of cooked vegetables and leftover fish scraps. Over the years, Bay Area chefs transformed it into a more luxurious dish using local delicacies such as Dungeness crab, as in this version from the city’s legendary Tadich Grill.

This recipe originally ran alongside Thomas McNamee’s 2001 article, “Big Soup.”

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