Peruvian | Saveur

Leche de Tigre

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:44 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross

Literally “tiger’s milk,” this bright and spicy citrus-based marinade is used to cure the fish in classic Peruvian ceviche. This leche de tigre recipe makes a sizable batch; leftovers can be frozen for up to a month to be repurposed in more ceviche, marinades, or even in savory drinks, like our Hair of the Tiger cocktail.

Featured in “The Secrets of Lima’s Cutting Edge Ceviche.“

Yield: 12

Time: 15 minutes

2 cups fresh lime juice
5 oz. firm white fish such as fluke, seabass, flounder, or sole
1 cup fish stock
½ large yellow onion, thinly sliced
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 celery ribs, coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp. finely grated fresh peeled ginger
2 tsp. finely chopped cilantro stems
1 tsp. ají limo paste
2½ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

Set a fine mesh strainer over a large bowl or measuring cup. Set aside.
To a high-powered blender, add the lime juice, fish, fish stock, onion, garlic, celery, ginger, cilantro stems, ají limo paste, and ⅔ cup cold water. Blend until the mixture is completely liquefied, about 5 minutes. Add the salt and ⅓ cup ice cubes, then blend until thoroughly combined, 30–60 seconds more.
Strain through the prepared sieve, reserving the liquid and discarding any solids. Cover and refrigerate the leche de tigre until ready to use, up to 1 day, or freeze for up to one month.

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Pisco Sour

Shannon Mustipher — Wed, 12 Nov 2014 17:42:31 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling by Kat Craddock

The pisco sour was one of the first drinks to be codified during the “Golden Age of Cocktails.” In fact, the recipe emerged as a result of a confluence of factors far from the South American spirit’s birthplace.

California boasts a history of wine and brandy production dating back to the 17th century, as well as a deep connection to South and Central American territories once controlled by the Spanish Crown. Gold Rush era San Francisco was a hotbed for cocktail culture, by virtue of the glut of unattached men looking for ways to distract themselves from their arduous work in the mining industry. While the Conquistadors invested in California wine production, spirit distillation was much less widespread; for local high rollers who wished to imbibe, high-quality options were slim.

Pisco—a grape-based distillate whose origins are a topic of debate between Peru and Chile—was suited perfectly to the late 19th century’s emerging “fancy drinks” trend. At turns aromatic and dry, the spirit pairs nicely with various fruits and acids, and was a natural choice for the era’s elevated serves. San Francisco’s Bank Exchange and Billiard Saloon popularized pisco in the 1880s by mixing it with pineapple, lime, and syrup for the enormously popular pisco punch, inspiring imitators throughout the city. Then in the 1920s, the South American liquor garnered its international fame when Victor Vaughn Morris, an American bar owner who’d immigrated to Lima, began serving a pisco-based riff on the whisky sour. Made luxuriously silky via the addition of egg white (like the Ramos gin fizz popularized in New Orleans shortly before), and highly aromatic courtesy of Angostura bitters, a drink this good is virtually impossible to improve upon, which explains why the recipe hasn’t changed in over a century.

Yield: 1

Time: 5 minutes

2 oz. pisco
1 fresh lemon juice
¾ oz. simple syrup
1 large egg white
Angostura bitters, for garnish

Instructions

To a cocktail shaker, add the pisco, lemon juice, simple syrup, and egg white. Dry shake for 20 seconds to emulsify, then add the ice and shake well to chill. Strain into a chilled coupe or nick and nora and garnish with 2–3 drops of bitters in a decorative pattern. Serve immediately.

*Note: It is important to point out that Chilean pisco is generally more floral, while Peruvian versions can display more earthy and vegetal notes which I find more suitable for cocktailing. There are four broad styles of Peruvian Pisco: Puro, Aromatico, Acholado, and Mosto Verde. I prefer Acholado for its drier profile, while others may prefer the sweetness of Mosto Verde. The brands Barsol, Porton, and Macchu Pisco will all work nicely in this recipe.

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Peruvian Street Cart Ceviche with Sweet Potato and Toasted Corn (Ceviche Carretillero)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:48 +0000

Photography by Ted & Chelsea; Food Styling by Stacy Adimando and Kat Craddock; Prop Styling by Rebecca Bartoshesky

Versions of this dish, Lima’s iconic ceviche, are served around the city at beaches, parks, and markets. Chef John Evans Ravenna of Barra Lima sprinkles his with fried quinoa—long grown in Peru—and whimsical foraged garnishes such as edible flowers and seaweeds. For ease, you can leave off the glazed sweet potato, though it provides welcome relief from the spicy ají limo chile.

Featured in: “The Secrets of Lima’s Cutting-Edge Ceviche.”

What You Will Need

Yield: serves 4 People

Time: 2 hours

14 oz. white fish fillet such as fluke, seabass, flounder, or sole
1 small sweet potato (4 oz.)
³⁄₄ cup fresh orange juice
¹⁄₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar
¹⁄₃ cup plus 3 Tbsp. lime juice, divided
3 Tbsp. passion fruit purée or strained fresh passion fruit pulp
Kosher salt and ground white pepper
¹⁄₂ cup quinoa, optional
Canola oil, for frying (optional)
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. ají limo paste
²⁄₃ cup very thinly sliced red onion
2 Tbsp. cilantro leaves, finely chopped
¹⁄₃ cup leche de tigre
¹⁄₂ clove choclo (large-kernel Peruvian corn), blanched according to package directions, then chilled
¹⁄₂ cup toasted chullpi corn

Instructions

At least 2 hours and up to 1 day before serving, rinse the fish. Pat dry. Cut into ½-inch cubes. Spread out on a baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered, for 2 hours or up to 1 day. (If longer than 2 hours, top with parchment paper.)
Make the sweet potato: Set a steamer in a small pot and add the potato. Cover and steam over medium heat until barely softened, 10–12 minutes. Remove and let cool slightly. Discard the peel, then cut the potato into 1⁄2-inch slices.
In a medium skillet, combine the orange juice, sugar, 3 tablespoons of lime juice, and the passion fruit; bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook at a low simmer until syrupy, 8–10 minutes. Add the potato slices and cook, flipping and basting with the sauce occasionally, until the potato is tender and the liquid is reduced to a thick glaze, 10–14 minutes more. Transfer to a shallow bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and chill.
Make the crispy quinoa, if desired: In a medium pot, boil 3 cups salted water. Add the quinoa and cook 10–12 minutes. Drain and let dry. Fry at 325°F in a few inches of oil, 5–8 minutes. Drain on paper towels and salt.
To serve, in a chilled bowl, add the fish and a pinch each of salt and white pepper. Let stand for 30 seconds, then add the ají limo paste and remaining lime juice, and stir for 10 seconds to combine. Stir in the onion, cilantro, and ⅓ cup of the prepared leche de tigre (save any remaining liquid for another use). Place a few slices of glazed sweet potato beside the fish, then add the choclo and chullpi corn in piles around the plate. Sprinkle with the crispy quinoa, if using, and serve immediately.

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Salmon Ceviche with Avocado and Mango

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:23 +0000

Photography by Ted Cavanaugh

The combination of salmon and avocado, which Peruvians call palta, is still more common as a maki roll in Lima’s sushi bars than it is in the city’s cevicherías, but it’s growing in popularity. Ravenna adds firm-ripe mango for its sweetness and acidity to harmonize with the rich, fatty avocado.

Featured in: The Secrets of Lima’s Cutting-Edge Ceviche

What You Will Need

Yield: Serves 4

Time: 2 hours

14 oz. skinless, boneless salmon, or pink or orange trout fillet
1 small firm-ripe avocado
1 small firm-ripe mango
Kosher salt and white pepper
¹⁄₂ cup quinoa, optional
Canola oil, for frying (optional)
1 Tbsp. cilantro leaves, finely chopped
¹⁄₄ cup thinly sliced shallot
1 Tbsp. minced ají limo or habanero
¹⁄₂ cup leche de tigre

Instructions

At least 2 hours and up to 1 day before serving, rinse the fish. Pat dry. Cut into ½-inch cubes. Spread out in a single layer on a baking sheet. Chill, uncovered, for 2 hours or up to 1 day. (If longer than 2 hours, top with parchment paper.)
Up to 1 hour before serving, peel the avocado and mango and slice as thinly as possible. Cut into bite-size pieces and layer between 2 sheets of plastic wrap to prevent browning; refrigerate.
Make the crispy quinoa, if desired: In a medium pot, boil 3 cups salted water. Add the quinoa and cook 10–12 minutes. Drain and let dry. Fry at 325°F in a few inches of oil, 5–8 minutes. Drain on paper towels and salt.
In a chilled bowl, add the fish and a pinch each of salt and white pepper. Let stand for 30 seconds, then add the cilantro, shallot, and ají limo or habanero, and stir for 10 seconds. Garnish with avocado and mango pieces to taste, and sprinkle with crispy quinoa, if using. Serve immediately, pouring the leche de tigre over the fish at the table.

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Japanese-Style Tuna Ceviche with Togarashi and Radish

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:14 +0000

Photography by Ted Cavanaugh

Depending on how the fish is cut, this dish falls between a ceviche and a tiradito, a Japanese-Peruvian (or Nikkei) invention similar to ceviche, in which the fish is thinly sliced like sashimi. Nikkei-style preparations such as this often feature Japanese ingredients like soy sauce, togarashi, and sesame oil.

Featured in: The Secrets of Lima’s Cutting-Edge Ceviche

What You Will Need

Yield: serves 4

Time: 2 hours

14 oz. tuna or bonito fillet
1 small firm-ripe avocado
2 small radishes
1 cup leche de tigre
1 tsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
¹⁄₂ tsp. wasabi paste
¹⁄₂ tsp. togarashi (optional)
Kosher salt and white pepper
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. chopped cilantro
¹⁄₄ cup thinly sliced shallot
1 Tbsp. minced ajì limo or habanero
2 Tbsp. puffed brown rice
Fresh seaweed, finely torn, for garnish, optional

Instructions

At least 2 hours and up to 1 day before serving, rinse the tuna. Pat dry. Cut into 2-inch-by-½-inch-by-½-inch strips; spread out in a single layer on a baking sheet. Chill, uncovered, for 2 hours or up to 1 day. (If longer than 2 hours, top with parchment paper.)
Up to 1 hour before serving the ceviche, peel the avocado and radishes and slice as thinly as possible. Cut the avocado into bite-size pieces and layer between 2 sheets of plastic wrap to prevent browning; refrigerate. Place the radishes in a bowl of ice water.
To the leche de tigre, whisk in the soy sauce, sesame oil, wasabi paste, and togarashi, if using.
To serve, add the tuna and a pinch each of salt and white pepper to a chilled bowl. Let stand for 30 seconds, then add the cilantro and stir for 10 seconds. Stir in the shallot and ají limo or habenero.
Transfer the fish to a cold plate, and garnish with the avocado and radish slices, puffed rice, and seaweed, if using. Serve immediately, pouring the liquid over the fish at the table.

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Chilcano

Organic

The Peruvian grape brandy pisco brings potency to this brisk ginger beer–based drink.

MAKES 1 COCKTAIL

INGREDIENTS

3 oz. ginger beer
2 oz. pisco
½ oz. fresh lime juice
3 dashes Angostura bitters
Raw sugar cane swizzle stick, for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

Stir ginger beer, pisco, lime juice, and bitters in a rocks glass filled with ice; garnish with sugar cane.

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