Canon Félix Kir, a French Résistance hero and later mayor of Dijon, lent his name to this simple wine cocktail traditionally made with the rustic Burgundian variety called aligoté. When Champagne is used instead of white wine, the drink becomes a kir royale. Don’t be tempted to stint on the amount of crème de cassis—Burgundy’s famed blackcurrant liqueur—to yield a faint pink drink; both common and royal iterations should properly have a dark rosy hue.

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Last summer, I found blackberries that were the Platonic ideal of what that fruit should be—luscious, glossy, and the size of my thumb. I discovered them at Sickles Market, a 107-year-old farmstand-turned-gourmet-grocery in Little Silver, New Jersey, where Bob Sickles sells blackberries that he grows, along with raspberries, on the same plot of land that’s been farmed by his family since the mid 17th century. I took home pintfuls of them with the intention of making a Sickles family recipe that Bob shared with me: flummery, an old-fashioned pudding-like dessert.

I cooked the fruit with sugar and strained it to make a fragrant syrup, which I goosed with lemon juice, thickened with cornstarch, and put into the fridge. Once set, the flummery had a light, ethereal, mousse-like texture. While you can discard the solids after straining the berries, the SAVEUR test kitchen found that they make a great topping for the dish.

Get the recipe for Sickles’ Blackberry Flummery »

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