Summer | Saveur

Clover Club Cocktail

Courtesy Tenmile Distillery — Sat, 12 Aug 2023 00:45:00 +0000

Photography by Daniel Seung Lee; Art Direction by Kate Berry

Named for a turn-of-the-century men’s club in Philadelphia, this frothy gin sipper belongs to the pre-Prohibition era of classic cocktails, but has lately been revived on craft bar menus. An earlier recipe appeared in Jack’s Manual (1908), by a bartender famed for his “fancy mixed drinks.” A cousin of the Pink Lady, it needs to be dry shaken to emulsify the egg white, and the addition of raspberry syrup—Monin is a reliable ready-made brand—creates a delicate blush for a summery refreshment.

Featured in “Our New Favorite Single Malt Whisky Comes From … New York?” by Shane Mitchell.

Yield: 1

Time: 5 minutes

2 oz. Listening Rock gin
½ oz. fresh lemon juice
½ oz. raspberry simple syrup
1 large egg white
Raspberries, for garnish

Instructions

To an empty cocktail shaker, add the gin, lemon juice, raspberry simple syrup, and egg white; shake well. Add enough ice cubes to fill the shaker about halfway, and shake well again. Strain into a coupe or Nick & Nora glass, garnish with a few raspberries, and serve immediately.

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Braised Rabbit with Pan-Fried Radishes and Creamy Polenta

Eliza Glaister — Sat, 12 Aug 2023 00:45:00 +0000

Photography by Daniel Seung Lee; Art Direction by Kate Berry

Chef Eliza Glaister grew up in New York’s Hudson Valley, where her cooking was influenced by neighboring farmers and wild game purveyors like Quattro’s Farm. This braised rabbit recipe, served over creamy polenta and topped with pan-fried radishes and leek oil, is a summer favorite. “When preparing game with little to no fat, especially rabbit, braising it is a wonderful method,” she says. “Cooking seasonally means working with ingredients that are all growing together at the same time and place. They end up just working well together. The radish and dandelion greens add a big punch of peppery bitterness to this succulent braise.”

Featured in “Our New Favorite Single Malt Whisky Comes From … New York?” by Shane Mitchell.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours

Ingredients

For the rabbit:

1 medium leek, washed
1 whole 2½–3 lb. rabbit
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups chicken stock
2 cups dry white wine
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano leaves
6 fresh bay leaves, or 12 dried
6 juniper berries
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

For the vegetables:

1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 bunch red radishes (8–12 oz.), greens left attached, scrubbed and halved lengthwise
12 large dandelion leaves
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Kosher salt

For the grits:

2 cups whole milk, divided
½ cup fine yellow grits or polenta
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Kosher salt, to taste

Instructions

Make the rabbit: Discard any dry or discolored green parts of the leek, then coarsely chop the remaining greens and reserve. Slice the white end into 1-inch-thick rounds and set aside. To a large Dutch oven, add the rabbit and 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat to medium and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Add the chicken stock, white wine, oregano, leek rounds, bay leaves, and juniper berries. When the liquid begins to boil, cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Simmer, rotating the rabbit halfway through cooking, until the rabbit is tender, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat.
Meanwhile, in a food processor, purée the leek greens and remaining oil, then strain into a bowl and season with salt to taste. (Refrigerated, the sauce will keep for one month.)
Using tongs, transfer the rabbit to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, pick the meat from the bones (discard the bones, or reserve them to make a stock) and return it to the pot. Stir in the mustard and salt and black pepper to taste, then turn the heat to low and continue to cook, uncovered, until thickened slightly, 10–15 minutes.
Make the vegetables: To a skillet set over medium-low heat, add the oil, butter, radishes, dandelion leaves, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the radishes are fork tender, 6–10 minutes. Season with salt and set aside.
Make the grits: In a medium pot, bring 1 cup of the milk and 1 cup of water to a boil. Season with salt, then turn the heat to low and add the grits. Cook, whisking continuously, until thickened, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the butter and remaining milk and season with salt to taste.
To serve, scrape the grits onto a platter. Using a slotted spoon, top evenly with the braised rabbit, then spoon with the cooking liquid. Top with the vegetables, then drizzle with the leek oil and serve.

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Thai Green Mango Salad (Som Tum Mamuang)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:01 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

A street food favorite in the night markets of Thailand, this Thai green mango salad recipe, known as som tum mamuang, is a refreshing adaptation of a more widely known version made with papaya. Usually served as an appetizer, this spicy-sweet salad makes splendid use of crunchy and tart unripe mangoes.

A fruit shredder can make quick work of slicing the mangoes. A mortar and pestle is also key for extracting flavor and fragrance from the aromatics and fruit (and is a worthwhile investment for all kinds of cooking). When making this dish, cooks in Thailand traditionally use a larger mortar than what is typically found in the U.S.

This recipe originally ran in our June/July 2010 print issue with the story “Everything Is Illuminated,” by James Oseland.

Yield: 2

Time: 25 minutes

2 Tbsp. small dried shrimp
8 red bird’s eye chiles, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ medium shallot, finely chopped
3 small, green unripe mangoes (about 1½ lbs.), peeled and cut into thin matchsticks
18 green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-in. lengths
14 grape tomatoes, halved
3 Tbsp. fish sauce
2 Tbsp. lime juice
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. palm sugar or brown sugar
2 Tbsp. roasted unsalted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Instructions

In a large mortar and pestle, pound the shrimp until coarsely ground; transfer to a small bowl and set aside. To the mortar, add the chiles, garlic, and shallot and pound until bruised. Working in batches, add the mangoes and pound, using a spoon to scrape the sides and combine well after each batch, until the fruit is softened slightly and fully coated in the aromatics. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and set aside.
To the mortar, add the green beans and tomatoes and lightly pound to extract their juices. Stir in the fish sauce, lime juice, and sugar, then transfer to the bowl with the mango mixture and toss well. Transfer to a serving bowl or platter, garnish with the crushed dried shrimp and peanuts, and serve at room temperature.

The post Thai Green Mango Salad (Som Tum Mamuang) appeared first on Saveur.

Atol de Elote

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:26 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Atol de elote is a sweet corn beverage frequently doled out warm in Guatemalan markets. Seasoned with cinnamon or vanilla, fresh corn kernels are pulverized on a grinding stone or metate to achieve the drink’s silky, creamy consistency. (In a pinch, a blender gets the job done, too.)

This recipe ran alongside Chris Bagley‘s 2017 story, “Guatemala’s Ancient Food Traditions.“

Yield: 6–8

Time: 40 minutes

3 fresh corn cobs, shucked (about 1¾ lb.)
2 cups whole milk
¹⁄₂ cup raw turbinado sugar
¹⁄₄ tsp. ground cinnamon or vanilla extract, or more
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

Using a large chefs knife, slice the kernels from the corn cobs, reserving the kernels (about 2 cups) and their juices (discard the cobs). Set a few kernels aside for garnish if desired.
Transfer the corn kernels to a blender and pulse until coarsely ground. Add 2 cups water, the milk, sugar, and cinnamon or vanilla, and blend on high until very smooth.
To a medium pot over medium-low heat, add the corn mixture, bring to a low boil, then stir in the salt. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the atol de elote is slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and ladle into heatproof cups or mugs. Garnish with any reserved corn kernels and a bit more cinnamon if desired.

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Apricot Soufflé

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:35:40 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This exceptional apricot soufflé recipe comes to us from Café Jacqueline in San Francisco, a cozy bistro that serves homestyle French fare in a chandeliered dining room. Of proprietor Jacqueline Margulis’s many delectable soufflés, this is our favorite, especially come late spring and summer, when fresh apricots are in season. The soufflé will begin to fall the moment it’s pulled from the oven, but any change in appearance won’t affect the taste.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

Unsalted butter, for greasing
¾ cup heavy cream
¼ cup sugar, plus more for dusting
2¼ tsp. all-purpose flour
5 large fresh apricots, 4 coarsely chopped, 1 thinly sliced
1 tsp. kirsch
4 large room-temperature eggs, separated
⅛ tsp. cream of tartar
Confectioners sugar, for dusting

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Position a rack low enough in the oven to allow the soufflé room to rise as much as 2 inches above the rim. Butter a 6½-inch-diameter soufflé dish, then dust with sugar, tapping out any excess.
To a medium pot over medium heat, add the cream, sugar, flour, and chopped apricots. Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking, until thick, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the kirsch. One at a time, whisk in the egg yolks. Spread ¼ cup of the apricot mixture evenly on the bottom of the soufflé dish; set aside the rest.
Using a stand or handheld mixer, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until stiff peaks form. Using a silicone spatula, gently fold about one third of the egg whites into the remaining apricot mixture. Repeat, folding in the remaining whites in two batches. (Do not over-mix.) Scrape into the soufflé dish.
Bake until puffed and browned (but still slightly jiggly), 12–15 minutes. Dust generously with confectioners sugar and fan the sliced apricot on top. Serve immediately.

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Sour Cherry Crumble

Stacy Adimando — Mon, 10 Jun 2019 13:03:47 +0000

Photography by Brian Klutch

Whether you call it a crisp or a crumble, this easy recipe from Stacy Adimando requires just a baking dish and a few bowls. Delicious right after it cools, sour cherry crumble is arguably even better the next day for breakfast. Using natural cane sugar—which is less refined and slightly coarser—helps keep it from being overly sweet.

Featured in: Sour Cherries Are Summer’s Greatest, Most Fleeting Gift.

Yield: 8

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the crumb:

1 cup all-purpose flour
¹⁄₂ cup firmly packed light-brown sugar
2 Tbsp. natural cane sugar
¹⁄₂ tsp. ground cinnamon
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt
9 Tbsp. (41/2 oz.) unsalted butter, cut into medium cubes

For filling and serving:

8 cups fresh sour cherries (about 2 lb. 12 oz.)
¼ cup tapioca flour (tapioca starch)
¹⁄₄ cup natural cane sugar
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
Finely grated zest of ½ small lemon
1 pinch ground cinnamon
1 pinch kosher salt
Vanilla ice cream, for serving

Instructions

Make the crumb: In a large bowl, mix the flour, both sugars, the cinnamon, and salt. Add the butter and squeeze the mixture firmly and repeatedly with your fingers, scooping up the bits from the bottom of the bowl until the mixture feels moist and comes together in golf-ball-size crumbles. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes.
When ready to bake, set a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Gently pit the cherries, recruiting help as needed, and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the tapioca flour, sugar, vanilla, zest, cinnamon, and salt.
Quickly transfer the cherry mixture to a 10-inch ceramic baking dish or pie plate. Sprinkle the topping evenly on top to cover the cherries, crumbling it into smaller pieces as you go.
Bake on a foil-lined, rimmed baking sheet until the juices are thickened, syrupy, and bubbling slowly and the top is lightly golden, about 50 minutes. Remove to a wire rack and let cool completely (or nearly). Serve with vanilla ice cream.

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Two Pea Stir-Fry with Greens

Kat Craddock — Thu, 23 May 2019 01:32:00 +0000

KAT CRADDOCK

Snow peas, sugar snap peas, and pea shoots are quick-cooked with a Thai-inspired oyster-fish-soy sauce dressing, along with plenty of garlic and chiles, in this bold and punchy side dish from SAVEUR editor-in-chief Kat Craddock, which she adapted from a Pok Pok recipe by Andy Ricker. Shoots harvested later in the season are tougher in texture—adjust the cook time accordingly.

Yield: 4

Time: 10 minutes

1 Tbsp. canola oil
1 garlic clove, smashed
1½ cups snow peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
1½ cups snap peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
2 bird’s-eye chiles, thinly sliced
3 oz. pea shoots (tendrils, shoots, and leaves), cut into 2-in. lengths (2 cups, loosely packed)
2 tsp. oyster sauce
1½ tsp. fish sauce
1½ tsp. soy sauce
½ tsp. sugar

Instructions

To a wok set over high heat, add the oil and swirl to coat. When smoking, add the garlic and fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds, followed by the snow peas, snap peas, and chiles. Cook, stirring continuously, until the pods are bright green and beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the pea shoots and 1 tablespoon of water and cook until wilted, 30–45 seconds. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar, and 2 tablespoons water and cook, stirring continuously, until the peas and greens are tender and evenly coated with sauce, 1–2 minutes more.

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Scotch Bonnet Hot Sauce

SAVEUR Editors — Thu, 23 May 2019 18:06:40 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY VICTORIA GRANOF; PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN

While whimsical-looking Scotch bonnet chiles have a flavorful fruitiness, they also pack a capsaicin punch that can easily overwhelm a dish. A fresh, Caribbean-style pepper sauce, tempered with sweet tropical fruit, is a great way to make the most of the fiery peppers. This hot sauce originally ran alongside Korsha Wilson’s guide to traditional Jamaican-style jerk cooking. (If you can’t find coconut vinegar, a staple in Caribbean cooking, white wine vinegar is a suitable substitute.)

Featured in: “Master Jamaican Jerk with Our Definitive Guide.”

Yield: makes about 2 cups

Time: 10 minutes

6 Scotch bonnet chiles, stemmed
2 cups chopped fresh mango
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 chopped red onion
1 Tbsp. honey
2 tsp. whole allspice berries
1 tsp. mustard powder
¼ cups plus 2 Tbsp. coconut vinegar
Kosher salt

Instructions

To a blender, add the chiles, mango, garlic, onion, honey, allspice, and mustard powder. Pulse to break down the ingredients slightly, then add the coconut vinegar and blend until lightly chunky. Season to taste with salt. Use immediately, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 10 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.

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Blueberry Sauce

Emily Luchetii — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:05 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This blueberry sauce recipe from pastry chef Emily Luchetti comes together in a jiffy and only calls for a handful of ingredients. Make a batch to spoon over pancakes, waffles, or a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Use fresh or frozen blueberries to enjoy the sweet-tart taste of summer all year long.

Yield: 4

Time: 10 minutes

3 cups blueberries
½ cup sugar
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
¼ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

To a medium pot set over medium heat, add half of the blueberries and the sugar, lemon juice, and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the blueberries break down and the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining blueberries and cook until they burst, about 2 minutes more. Serve immediately, or cool completely and store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Stir in the remaining blueberries, and cook, stirring, until they burst open, about 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat and serve immediately or let cool completely and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Blueberry Sauce

Pastry chef Emily Luchetti makes this simple sauce for topping pancakes, waffles, or a scoop of ice cream. Get the recipe for Blueberry Sauce »

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Cold Tofu with Cucumber Vinegar

Nancy Singleton Hachisu — Fri, 02 Jun 2023 18:45:00 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY AYA BRACKETT. REPRODUCED BY PERMISSION OF PHAIDON

Serving cold tofu as a light side dish for a summer meal is a popular method for combatting the hot, humid weather in Japan. Here the cucumber vinegar is an especially refreshing and tasty dressing for the tofu, but also could be combined with lightly roasted sesame oil or fruity olive oil as a dressing for summer tomatoes. Konbu dashi is easy to make from scratch, and a batch can be used to make a variety of vegetarian Japanese dishes.

This recipe is adapted from Japan: The Vegetarian Cookbook and was featured in “This 1-Ingredient No-Cook Stock is at the Heart of Japanese Vegetarian Cooking.”

Yield: 4

Time: 10 minutes

2 small Japanese cucumbers (5¼ oz.)
¼ cup konbu dashi
2 tsp. shoyu
2 tsp. rice vinegar
10½ oz. silken tofu, cut into 4 squares

Instructions

Finely grate the cucumber and scrape into a small bowl. Stir in the dashi, shoyu, and vinegar. Place each square of cold tofu on a small saucer and spoon the dressing onto the center of each square. Serve cold.

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