One Pot Bangers | Saveur

Raspberry Blondies with Chocolate and Almonds

Benjamin Kemper — Tue, 11 Jul 2023 18:38:08 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest cooking ideas that require just one pot, bowl, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

When I’m in charge of dessert but baking is the last thing I feel like doing, these dense and chewy raspberry chocolate blondies always save my skin. Something about the raspberries and almonds puts these bars in fancy-pants territory—even if the batter comes together in a single bowl. Feel free to customize this blondie recipe based on whatever’s lurking in the recesses of your cupboard: White chocolate instead of milk is a no-brainer here, or you can nix the berries and add ½ cup of toasted shredded coconut in their stead.

Yield: 8–10

Time: 40 minutes

7 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled (see footnote), plus more for greasing
1 cup brown sugar, light or dark
1 tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. almond extract
½ tsp. fine salt
1 large egg
1 cup all-purpose flour
¼ tsp. baking powder
⅔ cup fresh raspberries
½ cup coarsely chopped toasted almonds
½ cup coarsely chopped milk chocolate, or chocolate chips

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Butter an 8-by-8-inch baking pan, then line with parchment or foil, leaving a generous overhang on two sides. Butter the parchment.
In a large bowl, whisk together the butter, brown sugar, vanilla, almond extract, salt, and egg. Sprinkle the baking powder evenly over the top, whisk to incorporate, then add the flour and whisk until just combined. Using a silicone spatula, gently fold in the raspberries, almonds and chocolate.
Bake until the top is cracked and pale golden brown, 22–26 minutes (do not overbake). Cool in the pan, then (lifting the overhang) transfer to a cutting board and cut into squares as large or as small as you like.

Note: For extra-nutty blondies, melt the butter in a small pot set over medium-high heat. Continue to cook, using a silicone spatula to stir occasionally, until it turns light amber and smells nutty, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a heatproof bowl and cool to room temperature before using in step 2.

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Dilly Salmon Pasta Salad with Pickles and Caraway Breadcrumbs

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 07 Jun 2023 13:56:37 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Welcome to One Pot Bangers, Benjamin Kemper’s weeknight cooking column, where you’ll find our freshest, boldest ideas that require just one pot, skillet, or sheet pan. Busy week? We’ve got you covered with these low-effort, high-reward recipes from around the globe.

Deli-case pasta salad—you know the type, gobbed with sugary mayo and flecked with bargain-bin tuna—can be grim, frightening stuff. With cookout and picnic season upon us, I wondered how I might freshen up the American side to give it a more intriguing flavor profile. The goal was to give the dish what a zoomer might call “main character energy”: pasta salad as the meal, not a sorry accessory to it.

I settled on using fresh salmon instead of tuna—a generous amount, flaked into big, juicy chunks. Then, drawing inspo from my Ashkenazi forebears, I added a few tugs of fresh dill, a glob of horseradish, and a handful of chopped pickles (plus a splash of their brine to loosen everything up). A sprinkling of caraway-scented breadcrumbs on top, and I had a recipe I could get behind. I’ve been making this salmon pasta salad on repeat for picnics, barbecues, and (since all the action happens in one pot) casual weeknight meals.

Feel free to use frozen or canned salmon in place of fresh. Poaching is the easiest way to cook the fish: Simply place the salmon in an 8-by-8-inch microwaveable pan, add ¼ cup of water, then cover and cook on high until opaque, about 8 minutes for center-cut fillets (9–12 minutes for frozen). For a more elegant presentation, transfer the drained pasta to a serving bowl in step 2.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 30 minutes

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
¾ cup panko bread crumbs, or homemade bread crumbs
1 tsp. ground caraway seeds
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. conchiglie (shell) or orecchiette pasta
¾ cup coarsely chopped dill or bread-and-butter pickles, plus 1 Tbsp. brine
3 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves
2 Tbsp. finely chopped dill fronds, plus more whole fronds for garnish
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. bottled horseradish
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
Pinch cayenne pepper
½ small red onion, very finely chopped
2½ cups flaked cold cooked salmon (see headnote)
½ cup crème fraîche, or sour cream
½ cup mayonnaise, plus more to taste

Instructions

In a large pot set over medium-low heat, melt the butter, then add the panko and caraway and cook, stirring occasionally, until deep golden, 4–6 minutes. Scrape into a bowl and set aside.
Rinse the pot, then fill it with generously salted water and bring to a boil. Add the pasta and boil, stirring occasionally, until fully cooked (just past al dente) according to the instructions on the package. Strain and rinse under cold water until cool. Return the pasta to the pot.
Stir in the pickles, brine, parsley, dill, lemon zest, lemon juice, horseradish, mustard, cayenne, and onion and set aside to marinate for 5 minutes. Stir in the salmon, crème fraîche, mayonnaise, and three quarters of the reserved bread crumbs. Season with salt and black pepper to taste (it should be very well seasoned) and more mayonnaise if desired.
Garnish with the remaining bread crumbs and dill fronds. Serve immediately (at room temperature), or cover and chill until ready to serve. (Tightly covered, the salmon pasta salad will keep for 2 days in the fridge; if it looks dry, stir in a couple tablespoons of water.)

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Creamy Asparagus Pasta with Mushrooms, Lemon, and Pecorino

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 26 Apr 2023 19:12:23 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling By Jessie YuChen; Prop Styling By Kim Gray; Linens by Solino Home

Too much asparagus might be the definition of a fancy problem, but there I was, looking down at three hefty bunches I impulse-bought on sale. My usual move when faced with a surfeit of veg is to blitz it into a puréed soup, but then I wondered—could asparagus be transformed into a silky, pastel-green sauce for pasta?

The answer, I discovered through trial and error, is a resounding “yes,” especially when you blend peas into the sauce and keep it nice and green by adding a handful of fresh arugula (asparagus, I remembered while testing, isn’t the prettiest shade when cooked).

Morels, shallots, lemon zest, Pecorino—these are the add-ins I wound up loving the most, since they play well together and all but scream spring. Enjoy this asparagus pasta recipe hot—and then (if you’re like me), enjoy it even more the next day straight from the fridge, with an extra squeeze of lemon juice and a generous drizzle of olive oil.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 50 minutes

1½ lb. asparagus (see footnote), bottom inch removed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
8 oz. mushrooms, such as morels, chanterelles, or shiitakes, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced ¼-in. thick (3 cups)
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
⅔ cup finely chopped shallots
2 cups packed arugula leaves
1 cup peas, fresh or frozen
1 lb. farfalle (bowtie) pasta
1 cup packed finely grated Pecorino Romano, plus more for garnish
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
¼ cup fresh lemon juice

Instructions

Peel the bottom half of the asparagus stalks down to the white flesh. Remove and reserve the tips, then coarsely chop the stalks.
To a large pot set over medium-high heat, add the oil. When it’s shimmering and hot, add the mushrooms and asparagus tips and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned, about 7 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter, stir until melted, then scrape into a bowl and set aside.
To the empty pot, add 2 tablespoons of the butter, the shallots, and asparagus stalks and turn the heat to medium. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the stalks are al dente, about 8 minutes. Add 4½ cups of water and bring to a boil. Add the arugula and peas and boil for 1 minute more. Using an immersion (or regular) blender, process until it’s as smooth as possible. Add salt to taste (it should be assertively seasoned).
Add the farfalle, turn the heat to medium, and cover. Boil, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot every 2 minutes on the dot to prevent sticking, until the pasta is nearly al dente, about 9 minutes.
Uncover, turn the heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring every 15 seconds, until the sauce has thickened and the pasta is al dente, 3–5 minutes more. Add the Pecorino, lemon zest and juice, remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, and half of the mushroom- asparagus mixture and cook for 1 minute more. Season with black pepper to taste.
To serve, divide the pasta among 4–6 bowls. Garnish each with the remaining asparagus-mushroom mixture, then drizzle with oil and sprinkle with Pecorino.

Note: Seek out asparagus that are ½ inch thick (thinner asparagus can be stringy, and thicker can be woody). Peeling the stalks in step 1 is essential as fibrous bottoms make for a far less creamy sauce.

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Sopa de Maní (Bolivian Beef and Peanut Soup)

Benjamin Kemper — Thu, 13 Apr 2023 13:00:54 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Dayna Seman

If you’ve never heard of Bolivian sopa de maní, or “peanut soup,” you might think it’s in the same gene pool as Taiwanese wedang kacang or West African groundnut stew. But unlike these, the dish’s protagonist is not the peanut but rather fall-apart beef and a vegetable drawer’s-worth of produce. Even so, the peanuts are essential: They thicken the soup while lending it a bass note of umami that will have you going back for seconds.

Though there are as many sopa de maní recipes as there are cooks in Bolivia (not to mention parts of Peru and Argentina), where the dish is a mainstay, the most heavenly version I’ve tasted comes from my friend María Colquehuanca, a La Paz native who’s famous for the dish among her Bolivian family and friends. I love how she browns the dry pasta in oil before tossing it into the peanut-thickened broth, adding yet another layer of nuttiness.

“I got this sopa de maní recipe from my aunt Marina, who comes from Cochabamba,” she told me. “That’s where the peanut fields are, and where the dish is said to have been invented.” María insists that the peanuts be raw and unsalted, and that they be ground to the texture of wet sand. Fried shoestring potatoes or french fries are an optional garnish; they add crunch to an otherwise spoon-soft dish.

Yield: 6

Time: 3 hours

2 lb. cross-cut beef shanks, patted dry with paper towels
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more as needed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ lb. rigatoni, or any other large pasta
1 large carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 large celery stalk, coarsely chopped
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 medium turnip, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. sweet paprika
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper, or to taste
2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
½ cup raw blanched unsalted peanuts, soaked in cold water for 20 minutes and drained
2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into long batons (like thick french fries)
¾ cup green peas, fresh or frozen
Coarsely chopped parsley, for garnish
French fries or shoestring potatoes, homemade or store bought, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

In a small food processor, pulse the peanuts to the texture of smooth peanut butter and set aside. (Alternatively, pound in a mortar and pestle.)
Season the beef generously with salt and black pepper. To a large pot set over high heat, add the oil. When it’s shimmering and hot, add the beef (in batches if necessary) and cook, turning halfway through cooking, until browned, 8–10 minutes total. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Turn the heat to medium and add the rigatoni. Fry, stirring frequently, until deep golden brown, 3–4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl and set aside.
To the empty pot, add the carrot, celery, onion, bell pepper, and turnip and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and beginning to brown, about 12 minutes. Add the cumin, paprika, cayenne, and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes more. Add the reserved beef and peanuts and enough water to cover by ½ inch, then bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to maintain a strong simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until a fork slips easily in and out of the meat, 2–2½ hours. Season with salt to taste.
Add the reserved rigatoni, the potatoes, and enough water to barely cover. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to medium and simmer until the pasta is nearly al dente, about 8 minutes. Add the peas and continue cooking until the potatoes and pasta are soft, 5–10 minutes more.
To serve, ladle the sopa de maní into bowls and top with parsley and a handful of shoestring potatoes if desired.

The post Sopa de Maní (Bolivian Beef and Peanut Soup) appeared first on Saveur.

Goat (or Chicken) Tagine with Fennel, Olives, and Ras el Hanout

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 29 Mar 2023 12:39:46 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Dayna Seman

“Tagine is architecture,” explained Houssa Yakobi, owner of Gîte Ourthane in Zaouiat Cheikh, as his elder sister Mouna—a stern silver-haired woman with faded face tattoos—scattered sliced cardoon over goat meat stewing in orange broth. The olives, carrots, and sweet potatoes would be layered on in an hour or so—enough time for us to knead up a batch of sourdough khobz, the sturdy Moroccan bread that doubles as a sponge for the goat tagine’s cumin-scented juices.

Purists will tell you a tagine isn’t a tagine unless it’s cooked in the eponymous conical pot, but don’t worry if you don’t own one: This dish comes out wonderfully in a Dutch oven. If you can find cardoon, use it (peeled and coarsely chopped) in place of the fennel as they do in the Atlas Mountains, adding it along with the parsley and spices in step 1. Cardoon and fennel are traditional early-spring tagine ingredients. Chicken thighs make a fine substitute for goat if the latter isn’t readily available.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

2 lb. boneless goat meat, such as leg, shoulder, or neck (or 2 lb. boneless skinless chicken thighs), cut into 3-in. chunks
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley leaves, plus more for garnish
1 Tbsp. ras el hanout spice blend
1½ tsp. ground cumin
1 small onion, peeled and quartered
1½ lb. fennel bulbs (about 3 small), cored, trimmed, and coarsely chopped, fronds reserved
2 plum tomatoes (fresh or canned), peeled and coarsely chopped
3 medium carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise
1 large red potato (12 oz.), peeled and cut lengthwise into eighths
1 large white sweet potato (12 oz.), or regular sweet potato, peeled and cut lengthwise into eighths
1 cup pitted green olives (preferably Moroccan, Greek, or Turkish), smashed with the side of a knife

Instructions

To a large, wide pot or tagine, add the goat, oil, salt, and garlic and turn to coat. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, turning the meat frequently, until opaque all over (do not brown), about 5 minutes. Add the parsley, ras el hanout, cumin, onion, and 1 cup of water. Cover, turn the heat to medium-low, and cook for 30 minutes.
Scatter evenly with the fennel and tomatoes. On top, alternate wedges of carrot, red potato, and sweet potato in a tight circle pointing toward the center (save any vegetables that don’t fit for another use). Top evenly with the olives (do not stir), then cover and cook until the vegetables are soft and the meat flakes easily when poked with a fork, about 1 hour. Sprinkle with the fennel fronds and serve.

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Middle Eastern Rice with Lentils, Frizzled Onions, and Lemony Yogurt Sauce

Benjamin Kemper — Fri, 10 Mar 2023 18:37:49 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling by Laura Sampedro

My all-time favorite recipe for mujaddara—that vegetarian Middle Eastern rice-and-lentil dish topped with crisp-fried onions and tangy yogurt sauce—borrows ingredients and techniques from cookbook authors like Yotam Ottolenghi and Paula Wolfert, plus skilled home cooks who let me peer over their shoulders. If you have time, toast the spices whole, then grind them yourself—it’s worth the extra step.

Yield: 6

Ingredients

For the sauce:

1 cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt
1 small garlic clove, very finely chopped
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
Ground sumac and extra-virgin olive oil, for garnish (optional)

For the rice:

Olive or vegetable oil, for frying
4 medium onions, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup basmati rice (7½ oz.), rinsed in a strainer until the water runs clear
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. ground cumin
¾ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground allspice
¼ tsp. ground turmeric
Pinch cayenne pepper, or more to taste
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp. pomegranate molasses, or 1 tsp. sugar
2½ cups cooked brown or green lentils (see footnote)
Coarsely chopped parsley leaves and/or cilantro, for garnish

Instructions

Make the sauce: In a small serving bowl, stir together the yogurt, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt to taste. Cover and refrigerate.
Make the rice: To a large pot, add 1½ cups of oil and turn the heat to high. When it’s hot and shimmering, add one third of the onions and fry, stirring occasionally, until crisp and deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Repeat with the two remaining batches of onions, then strain the oil into a heatproof container and set aside.
To the empty pot, add the coriander, cumin, cinnamon, allspice, turmeric, cayenne, garlic, and 3 tablespoons of the reserved oil and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring continuously, until fragrant, 1–2 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high and add the rice. Cook, stirring continuously, until translucent, about 2 minutes, then add 1⅔ cups of water, 2 teaspoons of salt, and the pomegranate molasses. Stir in the lentils and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is cooked and has absorbed the water, 14–19 minutes. Turn off the heat.
Use a fork to fluff the rice, then cover and let stand for 8 minutes. Stir in three quarters of the reserved onions, then scatter with the remaining onions and garnish with parsley. Uncover the yogurt sauce, sprinkle with sumac and drizzle with oil, and serve on the side.

Note: Using canned (such as Goya brand), package d, or frozen lentils in this mujaddara recipe means one fewer pot to wash, but if you can’t find them (or prefer to cook your own), boil 1 cup of lentils in a pot of well-salted water until soft but not mushy, 15–25 minutes. Drain and set aside.

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Georgian Funeral Rice

Benjamin Kemper — Fri, 24 Feb 2023 19:36:00 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

I don’t attend many funerals in Georgia, which is why it took me so long to taste one of the country’s most comforting—yet shockingly little-known—dishes: shila plavi, a peppery Georgian lamb pilaf similar to risotto that’s traditionally served to the bereft. But a few months ago, while visiting my friend Sopo Gorgadze’s farm and restaurant in Kakheti, I found what would become my favorite version of the dish. Made with arborio instead of the usual long-grain rice, and with so much black pepper and caraway that their quantities look like typos, Sopo’s shila plavi is al dente and extra-aromatic, with chunks of juicy lamb and shards of salty cheese on top.

Nobody knows how shila plavi came to be associated with funerals—even Georgian food historians are stumped. But if Occam’s razor is to be believed, it’s probably because the dish is so deeply soothing that it makes a wonderful balm against hardship and grief. So live a little, and eat Georgian funeral rice.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
12 oz. boneless lamb leg or loin (see footnote), trimmed and cut into ½-in. chunks
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 large onion, finely chopped
1½ cups short-grain rice such as Carnaroli or arborio
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. caraway seeds, finely ground
1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more for garnish
1 tsp. dill seeds (optional)
¾ cup dry wine (red or white)
3¼ cups lamb, beef, or chicken stock, or water, divided
1 bay leaf
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup coarsely grated pecorino or other hard sheep’s-milk cheese, plus more for garnish

Instructions

To a pot set over high heat, add the oil. When it’s shimmering and hot, add the lamb, sprinkle with the salt, and cook, stirring every minute or so, until browned with a few pink spots remaining, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high, add the onions, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they’re soft and translucent (but not browned), about 7 minutes more.
Add the rice and cook, stirring continuously, until coated in oil and translucent, about 2 minutes. Stir in the caraway, black pepper, and dill seeds if using, then pour in the wine and cook, stirring continuously, until the liquid has mostly evaporated, about 1 minute more. Turn the heat to high and add 1½ cups of the stock and the bay leaf. When the liquid boils, turn the heat down to maintain a strong simmer and cook, stirring every minute or so, until most of the liquid has evaporated, 6–8 minutes. Add the remaining stock, return the liquid to a boil, then simmer, stirring frequently, until the rice is cooked to your liking, about 8 minutes for al dente or 11 for soft. Remove from the heat.
Add the butter and pecorino and stir until both have melted, about 1 minute. Season the shila plavi with salt to taste, then serve immediately, sprinkled with more pecorino and black pepper.

Note: An equal weight of ground lamb, though nontraditional, may be substituted with excellent results.

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Crispy Salmon Salad Bowl with Walnuts, Parmesan, and Lemon Vinaigrette

Benjamin Kemper — Wed, 25 Jan 2023 17:18:46 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

It’s January again, which means the armchair nutritionists are back on their BS, dictating what we should and shouldn’t eat. But as someone who feels decidedly unwell every time the word “wellness” appears next to a recipe, this year I’m blocking out the noise and doing what works for me: eating more salad.

The salad I can’t get enough of lately is this crispy salmon salad bowl recipe with lemon vinaigrette. It’s a textural wonder: you’ve got the crispy corners of the salmon, the creamy dressing, the chewy dried cranberries, the crunchy walnuts… And everything winds up in one big bowl, with the bronzed salmon fillets draped elegantly over the cool romaine. Call it health food or call it self-care—or just call it dinner.

Yield: 4

Time: 35 minutes

4 skin-on center-cut salmon fillets (6–8 oz. each)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1½ tsp. Dijon mustard
1½ tsp. maple syrup or honey
2 tsp. mayonnaise
1 small garlic clove, very finely chopped
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1½ cups coarsely chopped toasted walnuts
¾ cup shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano
½ cup dried cranberries
2 large romaine lettuce hearts, washed, dried, and torn into 1½-in. pieces (10 cups)
Lemon wedges, for serving

Instructions

Generously salt the salmon on all sides and set aside at room temperature for 15 minutes, then use paper towels to pat dry. Season liberally with black pepper.
Meanwhile, in a large salad bowl, whisk together the lemon zest, lemon juice, mustard, maple syrup, mayonnaise, garlic, and ¼ teaspoon of salt. (The mayonnaise helps emulsify the dressing.) Whisking continuously, very gradually dribble in the oil (do not allow the oil to pool) to make a sheeny and creamy sauce. Set aside.
In a cold large nonstick skillet, place the salmon skin-side down and season with black pepper to taste. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook undisturbed until the fat has mostly rendered, the bottom edges are opaque, and the skin is golden brown, 6–8 minutes.
Using tongs, rotate the fillets a quarter turn onto their sides (balancing with a spatula if needed) and cook until light golden, 1–2 minutes, then flip to brown the opposite side, about 2 minutes more. Turn the fillets skin-side up and cook until translucent in the center when pierced with a paring knife, about 4 minutes more. Remove from the heat.
Working quickly, to the salad bowl add the walnuts, Parmigiano, cranberries, romaine, and black pepper to taste and toss to combine. Divide among four bowls, then drape with the salmon and serve with lemon wedges.

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Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Tahini, Yogurt, and Pomegranate

Fatima Khawaja — Thu, 12 Jan 2023 16:26:26 +0000

Photography by David Malosh; Food Styling by Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Welcome to SAVEUR’s column on making the most of local produce according to contributing editor Fatima Khawaja. Here you’ll find creative, unfussy meal ideas plus plenty of cooking advice—like what to do with that bumper crop of zucchini or how to store delicate heirloom tomatoes. Follow along, and you’ll learn how to turn the season’s bounty into easy plant-based meals.

The most tedious part of cooking cauliflower is cutting and trimming the florets—so don’t. This recipe, inspired by Middle Eastern cuisine with its yogurt-tahini sauce and pomegranate seeds, is a whole-head affair that makes a stunning centerpiece for any meal, whether you’re vegetarian or not.

Yield: 2–4

Time: 45 minutes

1 head cauliflower (2 lb.), stem trimmed flush with the head
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup plain full-fat Greek yogurt
⅓ cup tahini
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. finely grated garlic cloves
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup pomegranate seeds
1 tsp. ground sumac

Instructions

Bring a large pot of generously-salted water to a boil. Using a spider skimmer or two spoons, carefully lower the cauliflower into the pot and boil, turning the head halfway through cooking, until just tender, 12–15 minutes. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and, when cool enough to handle, pat dry with paper towels.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, garlic and enough water to thin the sauce to drizzling consistency (2–3 tablespoons). Season with salt and black pepper to taste.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 450ºF. Rub the oil all over the cauliflower, then bake until deep golden and charred in spots, about 20 minutes. Cut it in half lengthwise, then transfer to a large platter. Top evenly with the reserved sauce, the pomegranate seeds, and sumac and serve hot or warm.

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Baked Spanish Rice with Chorizo, Chickpeas, and Raisins

Benjamin Kemper — Mon, 09 Jan 2023 16:03:38 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MALOSH; FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

Paella gets so much attention that it eclipses Spain’s other, equally worthy, rice dishes—like this one-pot arroz al horno, or baked rice with chickpeas. The dish is primo Valencian comfort food, and I love its Moorish undertones (saffron! cinnamon! dried fruit!)—a reminder that Arabs brought rice to the Iberian Peninsula in the 7th century. Happily, the paella police are indifferent about arroz al horno, so feel free to play around: Don’t like raisins? Nix them (or sub prunes or apricots). In your plant-based era? Simply skip the chorizo and up the chickpea quotient.

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2½ lb. Spanish-style chorizo, sliced ¾-in. thick
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
1 large red bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped (1 cup)
1 Tbsp. red pepper paste, such as choricero, ñora, or ají panca, or 1 tsp. sweet (unsmoked) paprika
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
¼ cup dry sherry
3¼ cup chicken or vegetable stock, or water
Pinch cinnamon
Large pinch saffron threads
One 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained (1½ cups)
½ cup raisins
Kosher salt
1½ cups short- or medium-grain rice, such as carnaroli, arborio, or Goya medium-grain (see footnote)
Finely chopped chives, for garnish

Instructions

To a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and enough chorizo to cover the bottom of the pan without overcrowding. Cook, turning once, until crisped on both sides, 5–7 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate, then repeat with any remaining chorizo and set aside. Discard any accumulated fat and return the pot to the stove.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400ºF. To the empty pot, add the remaining olive oil, garlic, onions, and bell pepper and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is jammy and browned, about 20 minutes (do not rush this step). Stir in the red pepper paste and tomato paste and cook for 5 minutes more. Add the sherry, bring to a boil, then add the stock, cinnamon, saffron, chickpeas, raisins, reserved chorizo, and salt to taste and return to a boil.
Add the rice, bring to a boil again, then bake, uncovered, until the rice is al dente and the liquid is absorbed, 20–25 minutes. Remove from the oven, cover, and let stand until the rice is just tender, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the chives and serve hot or warm.

Note: If using Spanish bomba or Calasparra rice (which absorb more liquid), increase the stock to 4½ cups and the cooking time by roughly 10 minutes.

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