At New York City’s Carbone—and its younger Las Vegas outpost in Aria Resort—Berkshire pork spare ribs from Heritage Foods are brushed with a sweet, garlic glaze, finished over a wood fire, then topped with a mixture of fresh and pickled chiles. “I love this dish because it’s completely non-traditional to the Italian-American menu,” says chef Mario Carbone. “It’s a curveball that we throw, but somehow, once it hits the table, it looks perfectly at home.” 

Fresh cherry peppers come into season in late summer and often can be found at farmers markets and Italian grocery stores. (If you can’t track them down, though, thinly sliced green jalapeños will get the job done.) Pickled cherry peppers are available year-round in well-stocked supermarkets and online. The individual components of this recipe can be made a day or more ahead of time, and the final step is a quick and easy one, making Carbone’s cherry pepper ribs an impressive flex for outdoor entertaining. At his restaurants, the ribs are served over a bed of coleslaw, but any crunchy fresh salad would make a fine accompaniment. — Kat Craddock

Note: Slow cooking the meat in a layer of plastic wrap seals in its flavor and moisture, mimicking the effect of sous vide cooking. However, if you prefer not to cook in plastic, you may also omit this layer and bake only aluminum foil. We tested a plastic-free version and found the ribs still came out tender and juicy. 

The post Carbone’s Cherry Pepper Ribs appeared first on Saveur.

SAVEUR’s chief content officer Kate Berry was born in Southern Vietnam, though she is particularly fond of these Northern-style grilled meatballs, which she tasted for the first time in a restaurant here in the States. According to the classic bun cha recipe, the slightly flattened meatballs are cooked over a wood or charcoal fire, but she finds that a stovetop grill pan is a great substitute for achieving the dish’s requisite char and smoky flavor. 

Bun cha is usually served with a light and brothy dipping sauce; Berry suggests swirling the grilled meatballs directly in the condiment—fortifying it with their flavorful juices—before pouring the liquid liberally over the noodles and topping with fresh herbs. A side of crunchy do chua—Vietnamese carrot-daikon pickle—lends the rich pork an extra layer of freshness and crunch; find our recipe here. If cooking the meatballs on a wide-set grill, thread the meatballs on a skewer to prevent them from falling through the grates.

Do Chua (Vietnamese Carrot Daikon Pickle)

The post Bun Cha (Grilled Vietnamese Meatballs with Rice Vermicelli) appeared first on Saveur.

There’s nothing like a pizza hot from the oven—the cheese still bubbling atop a puffy, blistered crust. Until recently, that kind of pizza perfection was limited to restaurants with seasoned pizzaiolos and wood-burning ovens. My homemade pies were lackluster at best; conventional ovens, I learned, don’t get ripping-hot enough to achieve that crispy, chewy crust.

But a year ago, Ooni’s gas-fueled oven changed the game at my house—as it did for many cooks across the country. Suddenly I had the power to turn out beautiful pizzas on my back patio in record time. What was once a lost cause became an obsession as I perfected my dough’s hydration levels and fermentation time, and experimented with sauces and toppings. 

There was only one hitch—subjecting myself to whatever extreme weather had landed on my doorstep didn’t always appeal. Enter the Ooni Volt 12, the first indoor pizza oven of its kind. It hit the market this spring and has quickly become my go-to rain-or-shine pizza partner.

At first glance, the Volt 12 resembles Ooni’s other products, with its black casing and gray accents. However, the Volt 12 has a triple-paned borosilicate glass door with a handle that remains cool to the touch—even when the inside of the oven is a roaring 850 degrees Fahrenheit. I found that the door (and the entire oven) is so well insulated that very little heat escapes at all, making it welcome in small kitchens prone to overheating.

The Volt 12 is also exceptionally precise. Whereas flames require close monitoring and are harder to control, the Volt 12’s electric heating coils are regulated via a temperature dial (we love a dial!). Additionally, there are adjustable heating elements both above and below the pizza stone. Whether I’m going full leopard on a Neapolitan pie or channeling my favorite New York pizzeria, the ability to turn things up or down mid-bake helps prevent soggy bottoms and charred tops.

Then there’s the stone. Forget preheating for an hour (while your house preheats, too): The Ooni Volt 12 reaches its maximum temperature within 20 minutes and quickly comes back up to temperature between pizzas. I also found the 13-inch stone to be quite roomy for my needs; a deep-dish pan fits easily inside. Its generous size offered more wiggle room when rotating the pizza as well, something that has to be performed with urgency and precision when cooking with an open flame. (Unfortunately, pizza-turning is a skill you’ll have to master on your own, regardless of how fantastic your pizza oven is.)

The built-in timer is also a welcome tool, particularly when I’m cooking on my second glass of wine, or when there’s commotion (cinders are not a crowd-pleasing topping at a pizza party, it turns out). Equally helpful is the oven light, which helps me watch the pizza’s progress, and the ability to instantly change the temperature or balance the heating elements.

Overall, the Volt 12 accomplishes everything it sets out to do, and more. Not only is it a perfect oven for indoor cooking—it is weather-resistant and portable (it even has handles), so it can come along on adventures—as long as there’s a plug. There’s also no chance of running out of propane or wood at an inopportune time, a particular type of agony that will stop pizza night in its tracks.

As I’ve realized over the last few months, a well-made pizza oven is an investment that pays off—in pizza, family fun, and happiness.

The post Introducing Your Favorite In-Home Pizzaiolo: You appeared first on Saveur.

This strawberries with wine recipe from chef José Andrés makes the perfect end to an evening of grilling. Red wine is reduced with spices and bright citrus zest, then drizzled over fresh strawberries, ice cream, and grilled bread to make this simple, delicious dessert.

Featured in, “Menu: Chef José Andrés’ Fourth of July.”

The post Strawberries with Wine appeared first on Saveur.

After a red-eye home to California, nothing hits the spot for me like a juicy, melty In-N-Out Burger for breakfast—fellow West Coasters, can I get an amen? The iconic fast-food chain has locations in a handful of states, but the vast majority are in California. For many like me who grew up in the Golden State but no longer live there, stopping by one of the chain’s drive-thrus for a classic Double-Double (two beef patties and two slices of cheese) and Animal-Style fries (melted cheese, grilled onions, and the chain’s secret spread) is a homecoming ritual—even if the plane lands in the morning. I unfold the crinkled paper and relish in the familiar flavors, satisfying a hunger that only In-N-Out can quell.

In this recipe inspired by In-N-Out’s Animal-Style burgers, the all-beef patty is slathered with mustard and then seared. The sauce you’ll smear on the buns also draws influence from the flavors of the fast-food chain’s famous spread. And, as a nod to how In-N-Out often winds up being a morning meal for Californians returning home, this burger incorporates an over-medium egg—because is it even breakfast without one?

Featured in: “Welcome to California, Where In-N-Out Is Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner,” by Megan Zhang. 

The post Breakfast Burger appeared first on Saveur.

Charred over glowing coals or cooked with open flames on a gas grill, smoky, caramelized chicken is anything but bland. And if you throw together a spice rub, whip up a tangy sauce, or make a stuffing with fresh herbs, the humble yard bird soars. There’s a world of ways to grill chicken, either whole or its tender parts: Jamaicans invented jerk, Texans boast about barbecue, Nigerians have peppery suya, and the Mughals introduced yogurt-based tikka to India in the 16th century. And let’s not forget satay, kebabs, yakitori, or souvlaki. 

A welder named George Stephen invented the first modern barbecue grill in 1952 for Weber in Mount Prospect, Illinois, and American backyards haven’t been the same since. So, get grilling: Here are our favorite grilled chicken recipes from the archives, for the next time you’re fired up for wings, salads, or bánh mì.  

Grilled Chicken Tikka Kebabs

These juicy skewers get their complex flavor from a marinade infused with chaat masala and ginger-garlic paste. Get the recipe >

Honey Grilled Chicken with Citrus Salad

Chicken pieces slathered with rosemary-honey sauce pair sweetly with a tart, nutty salad of oranges, dates, and pistachios. Get the recipe >

The Best Jamaican Jerk Chicken

In Jamaica, pimento wood is essential for those dark, crusty edges that define jerk chicken. The zesty marinade for this island-style recipe includes Scotch bonnet peppers, allspice berries, and Jamaican rum. Get the recipe >

Calabrian Chicken Wings

Cured pork ‘nduja and the chile paste called bomba di Calabria heat up the brick-red marinade for these char-grilled chicken wings. Get the recipe >

Cilantro and Lime Chicken with Grilled Corn and Black Bean Salad

A bright, citrusy dressing makes this simple seared chicken a flavorful weeknight favorite. Before serving, top the charred corn, bean, and red cabbage salad with queso fresco. Get the recipe >

Char Siu Chicken

This Texas-style take on a Cantonese classic uses beet powder to give it a naturally bright red color and a kick of sweetness. Get the recipe >

Grilled Chicken and Avocado Bánh Mi Sandwiches

Chicken and creamy, ripe avocado make a great combo in any sandwich, but a Vietnamese version seals the deal with Andrea Nguyen’s “Any Day Viet Pickle,” a crunchy đồ chua of daikon and carrot. Get the recipe >

The post 7 Grilled Chicken Recipes to Heat Up Your Next Cookout appeared first on Saveur.

We’re big fans of the all-grilled meal, charring everything from steaks to desserts. Once you have those coals going, why not take full advantage of them? Meet the grilled salad, the best way to add a smoky, savory edge to your summer side dishes.

Raw vegetables make a quick salad, but some extra time by the fire adds deeper layers of flavor to those greens. Romaine gets beefier with some char. Endives soften their bitterness after a kiss from the flame. Even fruits like watermelon and cantaloupe taste sweeter in contrast. All that is left is a simple dressing. These easy salad recipes channel summer in every bite and add a twist to your next BBQ meal. And for more ideas, be sure to explore all our essential grilled recipes.

Grilled Halloumi and Cherry Salad

The sweetness of cherries balances the saltiness of halloumi in this simple summer salad. It’s perfect as a side or a main dish. Get the recipe >

Grilled Onion Salad with Sumac and Herbs

Zippy sour pickle juice offsets the sweetness of the pomegranate molasses and charred onions in this vibrant salad. Get the recipe >

Grilled Asparagus with Citrus-Beet Salad and Whipped Ricotta

Crisp-tender asparagus and a sweet, earthy mixture of beets and citrus are tossed in an herb-packed, umami-rich salsa verde. Get the recipe >

Shaved Fennel and Grilled Corn Salad

A base of crunchy, fresh fennel contrasts perfectly with grilled corn kernels and crumbled feta cheese. Get the recipe >

Grilled Watermelon, Avocado, and Shrimp Salad

Grilling makes everything better—watermelons get even sweeter from the flames, shrimp gets crisp and plump, and avocado turns deliciously smoky. Get the recipe >

Green Cabbage Salad with Charred Cabbage Vinaigrette and Hazelnuts

Chef-owner of New York City’s Wildair and Contra, Jeremiah Stone combines the juice from grilled cabbage with vinegar and browned butter. Afterwards, he tosses the resulting vinaigrette with a salad of raw cabbage and hazelnuts for an all-season slaw. Get the recipe >

Warm Red Potato Salad

Tender red-skinned potatoes are doused in herb vinaigrette in this warm salad. Get the recipe >

Cilantro and Lime Chicken with Grilled Corn and Black Bean Salad

A simple and fresh black bean salad with corn pairs perfectly with a quick marinated and grilled chicken. Get the recipe >

Charred Cabbage Slaw

Raw red cabbage adds a textural contrast to the grilled green cabbage, and a zippy, spicy-sweet-salty dressing goes well with the charred bits. Get the recipe >

Charred Escarole Salad

At The Willows Inn, chef Blaine Wetzel presents a version of this chopped salad as a composed dish. Tossing the hot, just-grilled escarole and apples with the cold vinaigrette intensifies the flavor of the vinegar. Get the recipe >

Charred Asparagus and Egg Salad

Super easy and fresh, this is a perfect dish for spring, but also translates well to outdoor cooking in the summer. Get the recipe >

Sallad på Rostade Grönsaker (Grilled Vegetable Salad)

Dill-and-new-potato salad is an iconic summer food in Sweden. In this version, warm your sautéed kohlrabi, fresh dill, and boiled potatoes in melted butter. This simple side dish is perfect for picnics and backyard barbecues. Get the recipe >

Grilled Romaine Lettuce Salad with Blue Cheese and Bacon

Fresh heads of romaine lettuce are split down the middle, grilled until charred and smoky, and then topped with blue cheese and bacon for this satisfying salad. Get the recipe >

Grilled Vegetable and Barley Salad

Barley is turned into a hearty summer staple, seasoned with cumin and chiles, and tossed with grilled vegetables, feta, and pistachios. Get the recipe >

Summer Succotash Salad

This summer mainstay is elevated with grilled sweet corn, plus fresh edamame in place of the traditional limas. Get the recipe >

Grilled Octopus with Chickpeas, Cherry Tomatoes, and Anchovy Vinaigrette

Tacolicious owner Sara Deseran first discovered this smoky salad, from Neil Fraser of LA’s Redbird, while cooking at the annual Sabores San Miguel festival in Mexico. The trick to getting tender, flavorful octopus is boiling it first, then marinating and grilling it. Get the recipe >

Grilled Cantaloupe with Peach Agrodolce

In this elegant dessert, cantaloupe is grilled until it caramelizes and is then dressed with agrodolce, a sour-sweet Italian sauce made by reducing vinegar and sugar. Get the recipe >

Grilled Squash and Scallions with Chile-Honey Vinaigrette

Grilling adds smokiness to summer squash, a flavor that chef Steven Satterfield of Atlanta’s Miller Union balances with bright ingredients like vinegar, chile, and honey. Get the recipe >

Endive Salad with Bee Pollen Vinaigrette

A thick honey vinaigrette pairs with pleasingly bitter endives that are steamed, grilled, and marinated in this recipe from Castle Hill Inn in Newport, Rhode Island. Get the recipe >

Frida Kahlo’s Zucchini Salad (Ensalada de Calabacín)

This simple Mexican salad consists of grilled zucchini, avocado, and salty, crumbled añejo cheese. Get the recipe >

The post If You Ever Wondered What Summer Tastes Like, Try These Grilled Salads appeared first on Saveur.

In the States, we often think of barbecue as a Dixieland delicacy, but communal round-the-fire cooking is far older than the American South. Around the world, fire pits, smokers, and grills are fired up for an endless number of meat-centric dishes. Korean barbecue is an elaborate feast of thinly sliced, marinated meats and side dishes. The Southeast Asian fascination with skewers—most famously Indonesian satay—has spawned regional styles hundreds of recipes strong. And South African braai is as much a social adhesive as it is a celebration of steaks and sausages.

The origin of American barbecue is particularly difficult to pin down. In his book, Black Smoke: African Americans and the United States of Barbecue, writer and barbecue judge Adrian Miller traces the word back to “barbacoa,” a precolumbian Caribbean term for a wooden framework used for storing foods above a smoky fire to prevent spoilage. Eventually, Miller notes, Spaniards began using the word to describe both the apparatus and the process for cooking the meats. But American barbecue is not an exclusively indigenous invention. Miller also points to research and writings from Dr. Jessica B. Harris, Zora Neale Hurston, and Michael Twitty indicating that meat preservation and cooking techniques with roots in West Africa also made their way to the American South by way of the Atlantic slave trade and the African Diaspora. 

Today, in the United States, the term “barbecue” has expanded to include any manner of meat or fish cooked over or by an open fire. But that doesn’t mean it must be limited to animal proteins. Hearty vegetables, plant-based ingredients like tofu and tempeh—even juicy summer fruit—all benefit from a kiss of smoky flame. Whether you’re in the mood for skewers, pulled pork, or just a juicy slab of perfectly-seared meat, here are our favorite barbecue recipes from around the world.

Sweet and Sour Eggplant Satay

Long, slender, Asian eggplant are preferable than the globe type for this vegetarian satay from chef and cookbook author Vanja Van der Leeden. The bite-sized pieces should be soft on the inside and slightly crispy and charred on the outside. Get the recipe for Sweet and Sour Eggplant Satay »

Satay Jamur (Javanese Oyster Mushroom Satay)

In this classic Indonesian street food from the island of Java, marinated oyster mushroom satay, grilled over a charcoal fire, takes on a satisfying meaty taste and texture. Get the recipe for Satay Jamur (Javanese Oyster Mushroom Satay) »

Char Siu Chicken

In this rendition, beet powder, a natural alternative, lends the bright red color and adds a little sweetness. Get the recipe for Char Siu Chicken »

Filipino Barbecue Chicken Skewers

“This was one of my favorites as a kid. The flavor is sweet, salty, and tangy, but it all balances out. Plus it’s meat on a stick, and what kid—or adult—doesn’t love that?” –Lean Cohen of Pig & Khao. Get the recipe for Filipino Barbecue Chicken Skewers »

Kai Kawlae (Southern Thai-Style Grilled Chicken)

Chicken, seasoned and grilled over coals, is a staple across Thailand, but a couple elements make this southern variant unique. Most notably, its marinade is essentially a curry, which is painted over the meat in layers as it cooks, resulting in a grilled bird that’s rich, extremely fragrant, and smoky. Get the recipe for Kai Kawlae (Southern Thai-Style Grilled Chicken) »

Chinese Barbecued Spareribs

This recipe is based on one that appears in the Joyce Chen Cook Book (J. B. Lippincott, 1962) by the author of the same name. For this dish, we like to use leaner, Chinese-style spareribs, also called St. Louis style, from which the breast bones and flaps of cartilaginous meat have been removed. Get the recipe for Chinese Barbecued Spareribs »

Angel Cruz Beef Skewers

Named for a park in Central Valley, California—a popular meeting place for the large Cambodian community there—these kebabs are slathered in an aromatic paste of lemongrass, makrut lime, and fish sauce before meeting the heat of a charcoal grill. Get the recipe for Angel Cruz Beef Skewers »

Jamaican Jerk Pork

The fiery, aromatic jerk marinade cuts through the richness of fatty pork shoulder beautifully. Get the recipe for Jamaican Jerk Pork »

The Best Jamaican Jerk Chicken

A whole chicken is cut into quarters before being coated in the lively jerk marinade and grilled or roasted. Get the recipe for The Best Jamaican Jerk Chicken »

Thai Charred Squid (Pla Muek Yang)

This grilled squid dish, covered in a tangy sauce and topped with peanuts and cilantro, is a Thai roadside treat. Get the recipe for Thai Charred Squid (Pla Muek Yang) »

South African Grilled Cheese (Braaibroodjie)

“You won’t find a more authentic braai dish than this,” says butcher Andy Fenner, who feeds guests these cheesy sandwiches when they crack their first beers. Braaibroodjie translates to “barbecue bread,” and this version stacks slices with cheddar, tomato, onions, and chutney before grilling. The chutney is key: Mrs. Ball’s, an iconic brand in South Africa, is made from dried fruits and vinegar, but any sweet and sour chutney will do. Get the recipe for South African Grilled Cheese (Braaibroodjie) »

Blueberry Barbecue Chicken

Similar to a shrub—a fruit syrup punctuated by vinegar—this blueberry sauce makes a bracing drink when mixed with club soda or booze. It’s also the first step in a fruity vinaigrette and is a perfect glaze on grilled or oven-baked chicken. Keep in mind this is not a marinade. Brush it on toward the end of cooking and let the chicken soak up more of the sauce before serving. The final soak is key. Get the recipe for Blueberry Barbecue Chicken »

Bulgogi (Korean Barbecue Beef)

Popping sirloin in the freezer for 20 minutes firms it up for easy slicing—the thinner the better when it comes to this classic Korean preparation. After drinking up a peppery soy sauce marinade, the tender meat cooks quickly over high heat, developing a flavorful char. Get the recipe for Bulgogi (Korean Barbecue Beef) »

Spiced Chicken Kebabs with Garlic Yogurt Sauce (Shish Taouk)

Redolent of garlic, cumin, and mint, these Middle eastern chicken kebabs can be served with basmati rice or flatbread. Get the recipe for Spiced Chicken Kebabs with Garlic Yogurt Sauce (Shish Taouk) »

Char-Smoked Baby Back Ribs

Grilling then smoking these ribs gives them an intense crust and soulful flavor. Get the recipe for Char-Smoked Baby Back Ribs »

Mint & Aleppo Pepper Marinated Chicken Kebabs (Tavuk Kebabi)

A thick, flavorful marinade of mint, Aleppo pepper, and Turkish sweet red pepper paste caramelizes on the outside of these grilled chicken kebabs. Get the recipe for Mint & Aleppo Pepper Marinated Chicken Kebabs (Tavuk Kebabi) »

Thai Grilled Chicken with Sweet Chile Sauce (Gai Yahng)

Though the chicken is normally spatchcocked for this smoky Thai specialty, cutting it into serving-sized pieces works well too. Get the recipe for Thai Grilled Chicken with Sweet Chile Sauce (Gai Yahng) »

Lexington Pulled Pork

In Lexington, North Carolina, pork shoulder is chopped and served with a tart tomato-based sauce. Get the recipe for Lexington Pulled Pork »

Paneer Tikka Kebabs

These skewers from chef and restaurateur Meherwan Irani are made of grilled cheese (literally). Paneer is not very absorbent and has a hard time holding on to marinade, so give it an extra zing with a sprinkling of chaat masala—a spice mix that’s traditionally used to finish grilled Indian dishes. Get the recipe for Paneer Tikka Kebabs »

Grilled Chicken Tikka Kebabs

A spiced yogurt marinade works wonders with boneless, skinless chicken breasts. Get the recipe for Grilled Chicken Tikka Kebabs »

The post The Ultimate Guide to the World’s Best Barbecue Recipes appeared first on Saveur.

Satay is the ultimate street theatre—an edible performance, which plays out on every corner throughout the Indonesian archipelago. The smoke; the promising scent of scintillating coconut husks; the sound of fat dripping over hot coals; the dance-like moves of the satay vendor as he turns the skewers, brushing the sweet soy sauce glaze over the meat, which then caramelizes over the open flame. This hypnotizing show calls out to our primal instincts: “Eat Me!”

Who gets the credit for this wonderful dish? It can be difficult to pin down the origin of any culinary tradition. However, it’s likely that Arab traders introduced their beloved kebab to Indonesia around the 15th century; from there, versions of the dish spread throughout the rest of Southeast Asia. Indonesia, however, adopted satay as a food culture of its own. 

The archipelago’s 17,508 islands comprise a tantalizing array of regional cuisines, including over 250 different types of satay, ranging from the diminutive sate lalat (“fly sate”—not made with actual flies!) to the massive, kebab-like sate buntel (minced lamb wrapped in caul fat). On the island of Java, from where my family hails, many varieties are marinated in and glazed with kecap manis, a thick soy sauce sweetened with palm sugar. Bali’s “go-to” version, sate lilit, is made from a mixture of minced seafood, and a typical Balinese spice paste which includes fresh ginger, shrimp paste, chiles, and garlic. And the western island of Sumatra is famous for its sate padang—beef cooked in a curry-like sauce, then skewered and scorched over a charcoal fire. But the most ubiquitous recipe, eaten throughout Indonesia, is sate ayam: chicken satay served with a dip of spicy peanut sauce. 

Satay (spelled “sate” in Indonesian, and possibly stemming from the Tamil word for flesh, “catai”) literally translates to “roasted meat.” This definition has been expanded over the years to include not only chicken, beef, pork, goat, sheep, rabbit, and offal, but also seafood, vegetables, and plant-based proteins (think octopus, mushrooms, and tempeh). In most cases, the main ingredient is cut into bite-sized pieces, then marinated in a spice-and-herb paste called a “bumbu.” For my cookbook INDOSTOK, I stretched the concept even further, making satay out of cassava, jackfruit, eggplant, and oyster mushrooms. Whichever ingredients you decide to skewer for your own satay, here are a few tips for grilling like an Indonesian.

The Grill

A traditional satay grill is constructed of stainless steel. It has a narrow rectangular shape and looks like a huge loaf pan. In place of a grate, only one or two rods rest over the flame, ensuring the meat has little direct contact with the metal, which prevents sticking. The skewers are placed perpendicularly to the long sides of the grill, which positions the meat directly over the hot coals; the exposed tips of the skewers rest outside the grill, allowing the satay cook to turn them as needed without burning their fingers.  

If you don’t have the traditional grill, however, any standard grill will get the job done—just remember to brush your satay with oil before cooking to prevent the meat from sticking to the grates, and be sure to position the exposed tips of the skewers away from the heat to prevent burning. 

If you’re unable to roast over charcoal, an electric or propane grill will suffice. For indoor cooking, a liberally oiled grill pan works in a pinch. However, be aware that sugary ingredients like kecap manis will burn very easily on a griddle; if using sweet marinades, keep a close eye on your satay as it cooks, and hold off on brushing on any glaze until the meat is nearly cooked through. 

Skewers and Skewering 

Depending on the kind of satay you want to make, different types of skewers can be used, from single-use bamboo, to the veins of palm leaves, to lemon grass stalks, to reusable steel brochettes. In fact, in Java, even old bicycle spokes are used for skewering one particular kind of goat satay (sate klatak). 

The skewering technique also depends on the kind of satay and the way the protein is cut. Fattier cuts, like chicken thigh and pork shoulder, which are juicy and flavorful by nature, take nicely to Indonesian satay, which often includes a combination of both lean meat and pieces of fat. 

Chicken for satay is typically sliced into thin strips, which cook quickly, leaving the meat juicy and tender. These strips are threaded over and under a skewer, making folds in which the marinade gets stuck—protecting the bamboo from burning and creating a scrumptious effect. The best chicken satay also has pieces of skin threaded onto the skewer along with the meat, which scorches and crisps over the charcoal fire. Other proteins suited to this technique are skirt or flank steak, and squid, while tougher meats like pork or lamb neck and shoulder should instead be cut into bite-sized oblong pieces before skewering, creating slender, quick-cooking spits. 

Marinade 

Many satays are marinated in a bumbu before cooking. This can be a complex paste of spices and herbs or, as is often the case for chicken satay, a simple mixture of garlic, lime juice, and kecap manis. However, “the longer you marinate, the better,” is a myth—30 minutes to an hour is plenty of time. Most of the aromatics in the marinade do not permeate the meat, even after several hours. (Salt is an exception and does penetrate, binding the water in the meat and making it juicier; feel free to season with salt a bit further in advance.) Acidic ingredients like lime juice and tamarind will tenderize proteins in the short term, but they can also turn meats mushy if left to marinate for too long. In other words, in the case of satay, consider the marinade as more like a savory coating; the smaller you cut your satay ingredients, the more surface area will be coated and the more flavor you will get. 

Accompaniments 

The sauce served with satay also depends on the type and the region, and can range from brothy soups like soto to fragrant, curry-ish gravies. Peanut sauce (bumbu kacang), which is so often mentioned in the same breath as satay, is by far the most familiar. In fact, peanut sauce and satay are like “Tom and Jerry,” which explains why this condiment is often referred to as “satay sauce” in the Netherlands. (Ask an Indonesian vendor for satay sauce however, and he will likely frown upon your request.)

The ultimate bumbu kacang is made with freshly fried peanuts, which are then ground in a mortar and pestle with garlic, red chiles, and other flavorful goodies like terasi (Indonesian-style shrimp paste), tamarind, and kecap manis. 

Sambal kecap, another popular kecap manis-based sauce, is made with raw shallots, makrut lime, and chiles. 

Traditional side dishes with satay include sticky rice cakes in various forms, eaten at room temperature, and a simple vegetable pickle (acar), which provides a pleasantly acidic kick alongside the rich and smoky meats. 

Shallots—either fried or pickled—are often sprinkled over satay for crunch, and as Indonesians like to “crack up” their food, some versions are also served with “krupuk.” These crispy, crunchy toppings can be made from a range of different ingredients, including tapioca flour, beef skin, and nuts. 

Vanja van der Leeden is an acclaimed cookbook author, former restaurant chef and freelance journalist with an Indonesian-Dutch background. Her cookbook INDOROCK, a modern take on Indonesian cuisine, won the Gouden Kookboek prize for best Dutch-language cookbook in 2019. For this book she travelled through Indonesia to cook with all sorts of chefs and home cooks. In 2020 she published INDOSTOK, a book dedicated to satay. Her partner in cookbook crime is her husband, an award-winning Dutch food photographer.

Recipes

Sweet and Sour Eggplant Satay

Get the recipe for Sweet and Sour Eggplant Satay »

Satay Jamur (Javanese Oyster Mushroom Satay)

Get the recipe for Satay Jamur (Javanese Oyster Mushroom Satay) »

Bumbu Kacang (Indonesian Peanut Sauce)

Get the recipe for Bumbu kacang (Indonesian Peanut Sauce) »

Sambal Tempeh with Lemon Basil

Get the recipe for Sambal Tempeh with Lemon Basil »

Sate Lilit (Balinese Fish Satay)

Get the recipe for Sate Lilit (Balinese Fish Satay) »

The post Making Indonesia-Style Satay Is All About Finding Your Grill Groove appeared first on Saveur.

If you’ve been to Thailand, you may have spent time on Phuket or Ko Samui, islands in the country’s southern region, but it’s unlikely you made it down to the predominately Muslim provinces near the Malaysian border. That’s because the region has, sadly, for several decades now, been home to a violent insurgency. I am currently researching a book on the food of southern Thailand, and even Thais were shocked that I was interested in visiting the country’s southernmost provinces. But after several trips to the area, I found it to be one of the most beautiful, fascinating, and friendly parts of Thailand.

When it comes to ethnicity, culture, and religion, Thailand’s deep south has little to do with the rest of the country. Most of its residents are ethnic Malays—Muslims who speak a Malay dialect known as Yawi. Not surprisingly, the region’s food also has a lot in common with what you might find south of the border, in Malaysia. Rich, often sweet flavors dominate, and dried spices make frequent appearances. Given the region’s lengthy coastline, seafood rules. And given the area’s predominant religion, meat dishes are typically halal.

This area’s most famous recipe is quite possibly a grilled chicken dish called kai kawlae, or in the local Malay dialect, ayae gawlae. Chicken, seasoned and grilled over coals, is a staple across Thailand, but several things make this southern variant unique. Most notably, the marinade is essentially a curry, which is painted over the meat in layers as it cooks, resulting in a grilled bird that’s rich, extremely fragrant, and smoky. 
The following recipe comes from Aisamaae Tokoi, a chef and teacher at Luukrieang, a non-governmental organization that provides housing and education for children orphaned by the insurgency.

The Curry Marinade

Unlike elsewhere in Thailand, where chicken is typically brined or flavored with a handful of pungent aromatics, the marinade for kai kawlae is more akin to curries used in Southeast Asian curries. The cook pounds herbs and dried spices in a mortar and pestle, fries the resulting paste in oil until fragrant, then simmers it in coconut milk, resulting in a thick sauce.

While classic Thai aromatics—galangal, ginger, and lemongrass—feature prominently in the dish, this mixture also has several attributes of Malay-style cooking, particularly the use of dried spices like fennel and fenugreek seeds, two ingredients rarely seen elsewhere in Thailand. In typical Thai style, these ingredients are first dry-roasted to bring out as much aroma as possible. Similarly, the dish’s dried chilies are also toasted, their ribs and seeds removed, emphasizing a deep smoky aroma rather than heat. 

“This dish shouldn’t be spicy,” says Aisamaae. “It should be sweet and salty—and a bit tart.” The acidity in the sauce comes from slices of dried asam fruit, which is common in Southern Thai Muslims’ cooking. It’s sharp flavor and a distinctive aroma are not unlike those of Chinese-style dried plums or tamarind. 

These elements are simmered together in rich and fatty fresh coconut milk. If the fresh stuff is unavailable, boxed (“UHT”) coconut milk gets the job done; avoid the stuff in cans, which often includes emulsifiers and other ingredients that prevent the sauce from cooking to the proper consistency. 

In Thailand’s deep south, a large granite mortar and pestle is traditionally used to process the spices to a paste, but a food processor or blender also works (add additional coconut milk, a couple of tablespoons at a time, if the mixture is too dry to catch the blade). And know that it’s no compromise to make the marinade a few days in advance; it keeps well in the fridge for up to a week.

Grilling

Another unique aspect of kai kawlae is how the marinade is applied during cooking. 

In Malay, golek—the local pronunciation of kawlae—means “to flip over,” and for this dish, the chicken is indeed turned as it cooks. It’s also repeatedly brushed with the spicy marinade; when one side gets crispy and close to charred, the skewers are flipped and painted again, resulting in tender, juicy meat encased in smoky, concentrated layers of flavor. “Usually we use the whole chicken for this dish—even the intestines!” Aisamaae explained, though when he demonstrated the recipe, he prepared only the thighs, which are particularly juicy and tender. While local vendors typically grill the dish on bamboo skewers for ease of service, when grilling at home, it’s also possible to cook the pieces unskewered, turning them with tongs. In Thailand’s deep south, this grilling is typically done over coals; a gas grill or even a broiler will work, though neither will impart the dish’s signature smoky flavor.

How to Serve

Kai kawlae isn’t merely part of the meal, it is the meal. With a side of rice, it’s the kind dish that southern Thais might enjoy for a picnic on the beach or purchase from a street vendor for a quick lunch. 

If chicken isn’t your thing, the dish is also frequently made with shelled and skewered cockles, which are marinated and grilled in the same manner. “It’s also a great recipe for people who don’t eat meat,” says Aisamaae. “My dad doesn’t eat chicken, so I make the dish with eggplants.” Firm, fried tofu is another vegetarian variation, and chef and cookbook author Andy Ricker suggests skewering meaty oyster mushrooms.

Recipe

Kai Kawlae (Southern Thai-Style Grilled Chicken)

Get the recipe for Kai Kawlae (Southern Thai-Style Grilled Chicken) »

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