Brine, Marinate & Pickle | Saveur

Carbone’s Cherry Pepper Ribs

Mario Carbone — Sat, 22 Jul 2023 06:53:08 +0000

Photography by Anthony Mair; Courtesy of MGM Resorts International

At New York City’s Carbone—and its younger Las Vegas outpost in Aria Resort—Berkshire pork spare ribs from Heritage Foods are brushed with a sweet, garlic glaze, finished over a wood fire, then topped with a mixture of fresh and pickled chiles. “I love this dish because it’s completely non-traditional to the Italian-American menu,” says chef Mario Carbone. “It’s a curveball that we throw, but somehow, once it hits the table, it looks perfectly at home.”

Fresh cherry peppers come into season in late summer and often can be found at farmers markets and Italian grocery stores. (If you can’t track them down, though, thinly sliced green jalapeños will get the job done.) Pickled cherry peppers are available year-round in well-stocked supermarkets and online. The individual components of this recipe can be made a day or more ahead of time, and the final step is a quick and easy one, making Carbone’s cherry pepper ribs an impressive flex for outdoor entertaining. At his restaurants, the ribs are served over a bed of coleslaw, but any crunchy fresh salad would make a fine accompaniment. — Kat Craddock

Note: Slow cooking the meat in a layer of plastic wrap seals in its flavor and moisture, mimicking the effect of sous vide cooking. However, if you prefer not to cook in plastic, you may also omit this layer and bake only aluminum foil. We tested a plastic-free version and found the ribs still came out tender and juicy.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 12 hours

Ingredients

For the brined ribs:

1½ cup kosher salt
⅓ cup sugar
1 medium lemon, halved crosswise
1 whole garlic head, halved crosswise
2 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns
1¾ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
One 4-lb. pound rack spare ribs

For the spice rub:

2 Tbsp. whole fennel seed
1½ tsp. crushed red chile flake
⅓ cup light brown sugar
2 Tbsp. garlic powder
2 Tbsp. onion powder
1½ tsp. dried oregano

For the roasted garlic gaze:

1 cup olive oil, plus more
Garlic cloves from 1 large head, peeled
½ cup sugar
½ cup red wine vinegar

For serving:

½ cup fresh cherry peppers, stemmed and thinly sliced
½ cup sweet or hot pickled cherry peppers, stemmed, seeded, and quartered
Shredded cabbage or coleslaw (optional)

Instructions

To a large pot over high heat, add 2 quarts water and the salt and sugar. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Add 2 quarts cool water, the lemon and garlic halves, and the black peppercorns and chile flakes, then transfer the brine to a large enough container in which to submerge the meat. Add the ribs to the brine, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least 6 and up to 24 hours.
Meanwhile, make the spice rub: In a spice grinder or small food processor, grind the fennel seeds and chile flakes to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl, stir in the brown sugar, garlic and onion powders, and oregano, and set aside.
Make the roasted garlic glaze: Preheat the oven to 300°F. To a small ovenproof pot or baking dish, add the olive oil and garlic, adding more oil as needed to fully submerge the cloves. Cover tightly with a lid or aluminum foil and bake until the garlic is golden and very tender when poked with a fork, about 1 hour.
Carefully remove the pot from the oven and set it aside to cool to room temperature. Transfer the garlic cloves to a cutting board and, using a chefs knife, smash and chop to a fine paste. Reserve both the garlic paste and the garlic-infused oil.
In a small pot over medium heat, stir together the sugar and red wine vinegar. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid has reduced in volume by half and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat, cool slightly, and stir in the roasted garlic paste. Set the glaze aside.
Cook the ribs: Turn the oven down to 275°F. Arrange a few long layers of plastic wrap over a large work surface. Transfer the ribs to the plastic wrap, discarding the brine. Sprinkle the spice rub all over the rack, turning a few times to completely coat. Wrap the plastic up and around the ribs tightly, then wrap tightly in aluminum foil.
Transfer the packet of ribs to a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until the meat is tender when poked with a knife, but not yet falling off the bone, about 2½ hours. Remove the tray from the oven and set aside without unwrapping until cool enough to handle, 15–20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat a grill, grill pan, or broiler to cook over (or under) medium heat.
Working over the baking sheet to catch any accumulated juices, remove and discard both the foil and the plastic wrap. Pat the cooked ribs dry with paper towels and transfer to a clean, dry cutting board.
Using a sharp chefs knife, cut straight down between each bone to divide the rack into individual ribs. Brush each rib lightly with the reserved garlic-infused oil. If finishing under the broiler, arrange the ribs in a single layer on a dry baking sheet.
A few minutes before you plan to serve the ribs, grill or boil them, turning occasionally, until lightly browned all over, about 10 minutes. Brush generously with the reserved glaze and continue cooking until the glaze is sticky and lightly caramelized, 5–7 minutes more. Transfer to a platter, top with fresh and pickled chiles, and serve the cherry pepper ribs hot, with coleslaw or shredded cabbage on the side, if desired.

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Do Chua (Vietnamese Carrot Daikon Pickle)

Andrea Nguyen — Mon, 15 Apr 2019 18:25:48 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MALOSH; FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

A jar of the Vietnamese carrot daikon pickle known as do chua (“sour stuff”) can add a welcome pop of color, crunch, and tang to a wide range of traditional dishes including banh mi, bun cha, and other grilled and roasted meats. Large white daikon radish is classic, but can be swapped out for more colorful varieties or even purple turnips. Don’t be alarmed if the pickles turn stinky as they age; simply open the jar and let it air out for 15 minutes before using.

Featured in: “Follow These Five Steps to the Best Banh Mi.”

Yield: Makes: 1 quart

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

¾ lb. fresh daikon, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks (3¼ cups)
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks (1½ cups)
1 tsp. fine sea salt
½ cup plus 2 tsp. sugar, divided
1¼ cups distilled white vinegar

Instructions

To a medium bowl, add the daikon and carrots; toss with the salt and 2 teaspoons of sugar. Set aside and let the vegetables soften until you can bend a piece of daikon so the tips touch without breaking, about 20 minutes.
Rinse the vegetables well with cold water, then drain, squeezing to expel any excess liquid. Transfer the vegetables to a clean, quart-sized glass jar.
In a medium bowl, stir the remaining ½ cup sugar with the vinegar and 1 cup water until the sugar is dissolved. Pour enough of the liquid into the jar to completely cover the vegetables, discarding any excess. Set aside at room temperature for 1 hour, then use the pickles immediately, or cover tightly and store in the fridge for up to 1 month.

The post Do Chua (Vietnamese Carrot Daikon Pickle) appeared first on Saveur.

Pickled Cocktail Cranberries

Kat Craddock — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:45 +0000

Heami Lee

We love the brininess of olives or pickled pearl onions in our martinis and Gibsons, but pickled cranberries deliver the same salty kick plus a puckery tartness, satisfying crunch, and pretty crimson hue to holiday cocktails. Though fresh cranberries take several days to tenderize and absorb flavor, defrosted frozen ones have slightly softer skins, which speeds up the pickling process. Get a batch started at least two days before you plan to serve. Cinnamon leaves can be ordered online from Burlap & Barrel.

Yield: 2 cups

Time: 36 hours 10 minutes

1 ²⁄₃ cups frozen cranberries
2 whole star anise
1 whole cinnamon tree leaf or sprig of fresh rosemary
1 ¹⁄₂ cups apple cider vinegar
1 tbsp. sugar
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

In a 16-ounce resealable jar, pack the frozen cranberries, star anise, and cinnamon tree leaf or rosemary and set aside.
In a small pot, combine the cider vinegar, 1⁄2 cup water, sugar and kosher salt. Set over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. When the mixture is hot, pour over the berries, then cover and seal. Let stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then refrigerate for another 12-24 hours. Use immediately or store up to 4 weeks.

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Quick-Pickled Beets

Fatima Khawaja — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 18:07:59 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAOLA + MURRAY; FOOD STYLING BY OLIVIA MACK MCCOOL; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

Welcome to SAVEUR’s column on how to cook local produce according to our test kitchen manager, Fatima Khawaja. This is where you’ll find creative, unfussy meal ideas plus plenty of cooking advice—like what to do with that bumper crop of zucchini or how to store delicate heirloom tomatoes. Every other week, Fatima hits the farmers market and chooses a peak-season ingredient to explore in depth. Follow along, and you’ll learn how to turn the season’s bounty into easy plant-based meals that’ll be on the table in under an hour.

Sorry I’m not sorry, I don’t like pickling at home. Sterilizing the jars, boiling and cooling the solution—none of it is my idea of a good time. So I resort to the quick pickle, an easy way to get similar results

Champagne vinegar is my go-to quick-pickling medium for its tart sweetness that’s not too astringent. When it comes to aromatics, I don’t adhere to any rulebook, but I’ve found that the refreshing bite of warm, toasted fennel seeds works wonderfully with pickled beets.

When shopping for any type of root vegetable, always seek out firm, crack-free specimens. I aim to gather a colorful mix of beets if available, and once I get home, I remove the green tops, give them a good wash, and save them in a damp paper towel for a quick sautée. If you have leftover bulbs that you don’t want to pickle, whip up this bright, nutty dip or make a sweet and piquant salad with citrus and yogurt.

Enjoy these tangy beets in a salad of kale or arugula tossed with sharp cheese and crunchy nuts or seeds. Or slice them thinly and add them to a sandwich. Or, if you’re like me, just pop ‘em like candy.

Yield: makes 5 cups

Time: 2 hours

1 lb. beets, trimmed and gently cleaned
3 Tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. champagne vinegar
1 tsp. toasted fennel seeds

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375ºF. On a foil-lined baking sheet, toss the beets with the oil, then season generously with salt and black pepper. Fold the foil around the beets to enclose completely, then bake until soft when pierced with a knife, 1–1½ hours.
When cool enough to handle, unwrap the beets, rub off the skin, and cut them into 1-inch pieces. Transfer to a medium bowl and add the vinegar, fennel seeds, and salt and black pepper to taste. Toss to coat and marinate, refrigerated, for at least 30 minutes before serving. (Refrigerated in an airtight container, the pickled beets will keep for up to 4 days.)

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8 Zesty, Puckering Pickle Recipes From Around the World

SAVEUR Editors — Fri, 17 Sep 2021 00:46:24 +0000

Photography by Andre Baranowski

In the satirical Portlandia! “We Can Pickle That” sketch, fictional characters Bryce Shivers and Lisa Eversman mock hipster food culture by pickling bandaids, jewel cases, and dead birds while referencing the beloved 1960s children’s book A Pickle for a Nickel. Pickles may cost more than a nickel now, but they remain essential on our hamburgers and bánh mì.

Late summer is prime pickling season. As fruits and vegetables arrive at farm stands and markets, fill your grocery bag with sweet watermelon with thick rinds, crunchy okra pods, bright-hued radishes, tiny chiles, unripe mangoes, and green tomatoes, and you’ll be on your way to zesty South Asian achaars and Brazilian conservas. To ward against botulism and spoilage, be sure to use sterilized wide-mouth canning jars (which are great for easy scooping) and to submerge the pickles in a hot-water bath if that step is required.

These are our favorite pickle recipes from the archives—the ones we come back to again and again. If you’ve inherited your grandmother’s silver pickle forks (or snapped up at a yard sale), it’s time to bust them out.

Radishes in Kelp Brine

Photography by Andre Baranowski

Cookbook author Hiroko Shimbo uses a seaweed dashi as a base for this versatile, briny pickle. When radish season ends, move on to sturdy cauliflower or onions. Get the recipe >

Cheetie Kumar’s Green Tomato and Watermelon Rind Achaar

Photography by Thomas Payne

Chef Cheetie Kumar boosts the flavor quotient of classic Southern pickled watermelon rinds with spices from her childhood home in Chandigarh, India in this achaar that she serves at Garland in Raleigh, North Carolina. Get the recipe >

Pickled Radish with Scallions

Photography by Maxime Iattoni

This quick pickle only takes one hour to prep, making it a perfect last-minute condiment to accompany noodle dishes both cold and hot. Get the recipe >

Conserva de Pimenta (Brazilian Pickled Chiles)

Photography by James Oseland

Chef Mara Salles serves dozens of homey Brazilian conservas like this punchy chile pickle at her restaurant Tordesilhas in São Paulo. Get the recipe >

Nimbu Ka Achaar (Lemon Pickle)

Photography by Ingalls Photography

Fresh citrus cured with turmeric, cumin, and mustard seed is a tart, briny pairing for steamed white rice or naan, but we also like it with grilled chicken and juicy pork chops. Get the recipe >

Okra Pickles

Photogrpahy by Helen Rosner

PIckled okra is the perfect foil for pulled pork barbecue or fresh shucked oysters. And we also love them dunking them in a brunch-starting Bloody Mary. Get the recipe >

Đồ chua (Vietnamese Daikon and Carrot Pickles)

Photography by Zachary Zavislak

If you can’t find daikon at the market, substitute purple turnips in this versatile đồ chua (Vietnamese for sour stuff) recipe from cookbook author Andrea Nguyen. Get the recipe >

Aamba Khatta Achaar (Sweet and Sour Mango Pickles)

Photography by James Roper

Green mangoes simmered with fragrant cardamom and cloves create a tangy condiment we love to pair with everything from Hyderabadi dal to Jamaican jerk. Get the recipe >

The post 8 Zesty, Puckering Pickle Recipes From Around the World appeared first on Saveur.

Fish Sauce-Pickled Radishes

Cuong Pham, Diep Tran, and Tien Nguyen — Sat, 29 Jan 2022 04:03:35 +0000

Photography by Linda Pugliese; Food Styling by Jason Schreiber; Prop Styling by Elvis Maynard

Most everyday Vietnamese-style pickles are made using ordinary salt, but on special occasions—such as the Lunar New Year—intensely savory nuoc mam is used in the brine instead. This not only gives the crispy, lactofermented fish sauce-pickled radishes their particular depth of flavor; it also helps cut through the richness of the many opulent and auspicious foods, such as banh chung (savory, pork-filled sticky rice cakes) traditionally served on such festive occasions. This quick and simple recipe is adapted from Cuong Pham’s Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook: Beloved Recipes from the Family Behind the Purest Fish Sauce. For more classic recipes to welcome the Year of the Tiger, look to our collection of the best Lunar New Year recipes.

Yield: makes About 1 quart

Time: 24 hours

2 cups turbinado sugar
1 cup distilled white vinegar
¾ cups nuoc mam (Vietnamese fish sauce)
2 bird’s-eye chiles, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped (optional)
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 lb. daikon, scrubbed, stemmed, and sliced crosswise into ¼-in. coins
2 cilantro roots or 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
1 small white onion, thinly sliced

Instructions

To a medium pot, add the sugar, vinegar, fish sauce, and ¼ cup of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then remove from the heat. Add the chiles (if using) and garlic, and set aside.
If using cilantro roots, smash with the flat side of your knife to release their flavor. (If using coriander seeds, use them whole.) Pack the radishes, onion, and cilantro roots (or coriander seeds) into heatproof jars, then pour enough of the warm brine to completely submerge. Cover and set aside at room temperature for 24 hours. Serve immediately or refrigerate and store for up to 1 month.

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Plum and Raspberry Jam

Camilla Wynne — Wed, 25 Aug 2021 21:15:10 +0000

Photography by Camilla Wynne

Pectin—a naturally occurring polysaccharide in fruit—is what makes jam gel. Different fruits naturally contain more or less pectin, so, while you never need to worry about a Seville orange marmalade or quince jelly getting a proper set (unless you undercook or overcook them), some low-pectin fruits, like cherries and pears, don’t gel so easily.

High-pectin fruits include apples, citrus, currants, cranberries, gooseberries, plums, and quince. On the lower end of the pectin spectrum are blueberries, cherries, peaches, pears, and strawberries. You must also take the fruit’s degree of ripeness into account, however. The riper the fruit, the less natural pectin it contains. For the best jams and jellies, aim for a mixture of 75% perfectly ripe fruit and 25% slightly underripe fruit.

This recipe, which can be adjusted to feature a variety of different fruits, is adapted from the basic jam recipe in Camilla Wynne’s book Jam Bake: Inspired Recipes for Creating and Baking with Preserves.

Featured in: “How to Quickly and Safely Can Jams and Jellies.”

Yield: makes Three 8-oz. jars

Time: 24 hours

1 lb. 1½ oz. raspberries (3¾ cups)
1 lb. 1½ oz. pitted plums, finely chopped (3 cups)
1 lb. 3 oz. sugar (2½ cups)
3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 small cinnamon sticks
3 star anise pods

Instructions

To a large bowl, add the berries, plums, sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, and star anise, and toss to combine. Cover and mascerate for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 week. (If mascerating for longer than 24 hours, transfer to the fridge.)
Sanitize your jars: Preheat the oven to 250°F. Wash three 8-ounce mason jars and place them upside down on a baking sheet, reserving your ring bands and unused snap lids. Transfer the jars to the oven and bake for at least 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the jam: To a wide, heavy-bottomed pot, transfer the fruit mixture, then bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the bubbles are sputtering violently, the surface is glossy and jewel-like, and the jam is thick when stirred with a silicone spatula (this is the “setting point”), around 15–20 minutes. (The jam should slide off the spatula in sheets or clumps or try to cling to the spatula when you bring it to eye level. If you’re uncertain, pour a teaspoon of jam on an ice cold plate and place in the freezer for two minutes. Remove and run your finger through the jam. If it has formed a skin and parts evenly, it’s ready; if not, continue cooking 3–4 minutes more.
When the jam is ready to be added to the jars, remove them from the oven and flip them over carefully. Working over the sheet pan and using a funnel or ladle, fill the jars to within ¼ to ⅛ inch of the rim. Tap the jars gently or use an air bubble remover, then wipe the rims clean of any drips or splatters. Place the snap lids on the jars and screw the ring bands on tightly. Once filled, invert the jars for 2 minutes, then flip right side up. Set aside and do not disturb for 24 hours; if canned properly, the jam will be hot enough to create a vacuum and seal the jars closed.

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Italian Plum Jam

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 20 May 2019 16:29:22 +0000

The elusive Italian plum makes a luscious, ruby-colored jam. Get the recipe for Italian Plum Jam. Matt Taylor-Gross

There’s a reason the Italian prune plum is one of Girl Meets Dirt’s signature spoon preserves. Full of natural pectin and with a skin that lends a crimson color to the syrup, this tart fruit practically begs to be made into jam. Founder Audra Lawlor makes hers with licorice-like anise hyssop, but fresh mint or basil also pairs nicely for a more summery flavor.

Featured in: This Orcas Island Jam Company Transforms Local Plums into Vibrant Seasonal Preserves

Equipment

Yield: makes 5 cups

Time: 8 hours 45 minutes

2½ lb. ripe Italian plums, quartered and pitted
2 lb. (4 cups) sugar
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. anise hyssop leaves, finely chopped (optional)

Instructions

In a large bowl, toss the plums, sugar, and lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours.
When ready to cook, put a small plate in the freezer.
Transfer the mixture to a heavy medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, stirring and scraping the pot as needed, until the juices are concentrated and syrupy but not caramelized, 15–18 minutes. (Use a candy thermometer to ensure the mixture never exceeds 220°F.) Skim any foam that forms at the surface.
Retrieve the plate and drizzle a small drop of the plum mixture on the surface. If it starts to set and form a skin after a minute, the preserves are ready. If it remains runny, return the plate to the freezer and cook the plum mixture a few minutes more before testing again. Stir in the herbs (if using), bring to a boil, then immediately remove from the heat.
Follow recommended water-bath-canning procedures to jar and preserve the jam for long-term storage. Or, let it cool completely, then refrigerate and serve immediately or within the next 2 weeks.

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Why a Well-Salted Steak is a Juicy Steak

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:20 +0000

A great steak needs nothing more than salt, but when you add that salt matters. We partnered with Popular Science to show you exactly why.

Salt does more than flavor a piece of meat; it also functions like a magnet for water. So when you salt a steak, it draws water to the surface of the meat, which in turn brings along proteins that help in developing a well-browned crust. Over time, the salt also works its way into meat, and where salt goes, water follows. The result? A well-salted steak doesn’t just taste better; it also retains more moisture.

The simple key to all of this: give your salt time to do its thing. At least an hour, but preferably overnight, for maximum penetration and juiciness insurance. And go heavy with it; the meat can take it.

Get your grilled steak recipes right this way »

The post Why a Well-Salted Steak is a Juicy Steak appeared first on Saveur.

Pickle Your Watermelon Rind for a Taste of Summer All Year Round

Sarah Sandler — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:35:09 +0000

Tim Robison

Watermelon Rind Pickles Tim Robison

Have you ever gotten to the rind of a juicy slice of watermelon and thought, man, I wish I could eat that too? Don’t throw it away! Deep Run chef Vivian Howard has the perfect way to preserve the part of the watermelon that you might have otherwise tossed in the garbage.

Pickling those watermelon rinds will not only ensure that you use up every last bit of this summer staple, but they’ll also give you another way to love on watermelon for months after the last ray of summer sunshine disappears. Brine the rinds overnight in a mixture of salt and water. The next day, combine water, vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, and spices, and boil them to make your vinegar brine. Drain and rinse the watermelon rinds, then add them along with the orange zest and lemon slices to the vinegar brine. Simmer them for 40 minutes, but make sure the brine doesn’t cook down to syrup.

Pair your summery pickles with pork chops as a refreshing addition to a hearty meal, or munch on them on their own like you would regular pickles. Either way, they’ll be a delicious reminder of warmer times.

Get the recipe for Watermelon Rind Pickles »

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