Breakfast & Brunch | Saveur

Custardy French Toast

Megan Heine — Mon, 31 Jul 2023 21:00:00 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Shortly after Brockton Villa Restaurant opened its doors along the shores of La Jolla, California, the eatery’s French toast became its bestselling menu item. Brockton Villa’s Coast Toast recipe is a famously pillowy, custardy take on the classic dish that calls for grilling the bread first in order to brown it, then placing it in the oven so the egg-and-cream-soaked toast swells up like a soufflé. Orange juice and orange curaçao (look for the liqueur at a liquor store, or online) infuse the bread with a subtle, delightful citrusy aroma.

Owner Megan Heine named the recipe (and trademarked the moniker) as a nod to the restaurant’s waterfront location overlooking the Pacific. As customers enjoy their brunch on the balcony of the renovated beach bungalow, they have a front-row seat to waves crashing on the golden sands below, and sea lions sunbathing in La Jolla Cove. Can you think of any better way to spend a morning in Southern California?—Megan Zhang

Featured in “The Coastal Village That Runs on Breakfast,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 3–6

Time: 1 hour 25 minutes

5 large eggs
2 cups heavy cream
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. orange juice
¼ cup sugar
1 Tbsp. vanilla extract
1 Tbsp. orange curaçao
Pinch of kosher salt
½ loaf soft French bread, sliced on the bias into six 1½-in.-thick slices
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
Powdered sugar, for garnish
Ice cream, strawberries, jam, and/or maple syrup, for serving (optional)

Instructions

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, orange juice, sugar, vanilla, curaçao, and salt. Add the bread, toss to coat, cover and refrigerate for one hour.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set it by the stove.
In a large skillet or flat grill pan over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. When the foam begins to subside, place 2 slices of custard-soaked bread in the skillet and cook until the bottom turns golden-brown, 2–3 minutes; flip and continue cooking until the slices are golden-brown on the other side, 2–3 minutes more. Transfer to the lined baking sheet, and set aside as you continue searing the remaining slices, wiping out the skillet and adding a fresh tablespoon of butter between batches.
Bake the toasts just until puffed, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter or individual dessert plates, dust with powdered sugar, and serve immediately, with ice cream, berries, jam, and maple syrup on the side, if desired.

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Lidnivikis

Jenn Louis — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:44:51 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

These old school Polish pancakes are lighter, fluffier, and cheesier than the batter-based standard. The batter—really more of a dough made from cottage cheese and egg barely bound together with flour—is sliced into rounds and baked, rather than cooked in a pan. Be careful not to overwork it when adding flour; the pancakes should be fall-apart tender.

Featured in: “Old School Pancakes So Good They Don’t Need a Pan.”

Yield: 5–7

Time: 45 minutes

2 cups cottage cheese (about 1 lb.)
3 large eggs
1½ cups (7½ oz.) all-purpose flour, divided
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Fresh dill and sour cream, for serving

Instructions

Heat the oven to 350°F; position two of the racks in the top and bottom third of the oven. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
In a large bowl, stir together the cottage cheese and eggs. Stir in 1 cup of the flour, the baking powder, and salt. Lay a second large rectangle of parchment paper on a clean work surface and sprinkle the remaining ½ cup flour lengthwise down the center. Pour the batter over the flour in an approximately 12- by 2½-inch log, then lift the long sides of the parchment to roll the log back and forth over the parchment until it’s evenly coated in flour (the dough will be very wet and soft). Using a knife, cut the log crosswise into ten 1½-inch thick rounds; using the side of your knife for help, quickly transfer the rounds to the lined baking sheets cut-side-up and spaced at least 2 inches apart.
Bake, rotating the baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through cooking, until lightly browned on the bottom and set in the middle, about 20 minutes.
Using a thin, offset spatula, transfer the pancakes to a plate or serving platter. Pinch off small knobs of butter with your fingers and place over each pancake. Sprinkle with dill and serve hot with sour cream on the side.

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Croissants au Beurre

Chad Robertson — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:35 +0000

Emma Star Jensen

The croissant is the most celebrated member of the family of butter- and sugar-enriched, yeasted pastries known as viennoiseries. They obtain their signature flaky texture through lamination, the process of coating a dough with fat and repeatedly folding and rolling it to create layers. Tartine owner Chad Robertson insists on an unsalted, high-fat butter with at least 80 percent fat for laminating his straight-armed versions.

Recipe times may vary drastically depending on environmental factors, so be sure to mind the visual cues before moving on to the next step. If possible, use a scale to measure your ingredients and work in a cool room.

Featured in “How to Make the Best Ultra-Buttery Croissants,” by Kat Craddock.

Ingredients

For the Preferment:

³⁄₄ cup (200 g) 2% milk
¹⁄₂ tsp. (2 g) active dry yeast (not instant)
1 ¹⁄₄ cups (175 g) bread flour

For the Dough:

2 tsp. (8 g) active dry yeast (not instant)
1 ³⁄₄ cups (425 g) 2% milk
5 ¹⁄₄ cups (800 g) bread flour, plus more as needed
¹⁄₃ cup (70 g) sugar
1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. (22 g) fine sea salt
1 tbsp. (12 g) unsalted butter, melted
5 sticks (585 g) high-fat unsalted butter (look for European-style brands like Plugra, President, or Kerrygold) at room temperature
3 large egg yolks
2 tbsp. heavy cream

Instructions

Make the preferment: In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the milk just enough to take the chill off. (The milk should not feel warm or cold to the touch, 80°–90°.)
Pour the milk into a large bowl, then sprinkle in the yeast and stir to dissolve. Add the flour and mix with a wooden spoon until a smooth batter forms. Cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel and let the mixture rise until almost doubled in volume, 2½–3 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.
Make the dough: Transfer the preferment to the large bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Set the milk, flour, sugar, salt, and melted butter nearby. Add the yeast to the preferment and mix on low speed, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl and bring together the ingredients as needed, until the yeast is incorporated and the mixture is an even, well-mixed mass, about 2 minutes. Raise the speed to medium, and while mixing, slowly add half of the milk. Continue to mix until fully incorporated. Turn off the mixer, then add the flour, sugar, salt, melted butter, and the remaining half of the milk. Mix on low speed until a loose dough forms, about 2 minutes. Return the speed to medium and mix until the dough is smooth and cohesive, 2 minutes more. Remove the hook and cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel. Let rise in a cool place until the volume has increased by nearly half, about 1½ hours.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and form it into a rough rectangle about 2 inches thick. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled through, 3–4 hours.
One hour before laminating the dough, make your butter sheet. Place a large sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap on a work surface. Add the butter to the center in a neat pile, then cover with a second sheet. Use a rolling pin to flatten and form the butter into a 12×18½-inch rectangle, peeling back the top sheet to manipulate the butter into shape as needed. Refrigerate to lightly chill but not fully resolidify, 5–10 minutes.
Laminate the dough: Lightly flour a work surface. Retrieve and unwrap the dough, then roll it out to a 28×12-inch rectangle. With a long side facing you, peel the top sheet away from the butter and flip it over to cover the left two-thirds of the rectangle. Peel away the other sheet. Fold the uncovered third of the dough over the butter, then fold the left-hand third over the center, as if folding a business letter. With your fingers, push down along the seams on the top and the bottom to seal in the butter. Give the dough a quarter turn so that the seams are perpendicular to you. Roll out the dough once more into a 28×12-inch rectangle, and fold again in the same manner (no need to pinch the seams again). Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to relax the gluten in the dough.
Clean the work surface, dust again lightly with flour, and retrieve the dough. Unwrap and again roll out into a rectangle 28×12 inches. Fold into thirds so that the rectangle measures 9×12 inches and 1½–2 inches thick. Wrap in plastic and immediately freeze on a flat surface for at least 1 hour or up to 1 week. (if frozen for more than an hour, transfer the dough to the refrigerator to thaw overnight before using in the morning.)
Three hours before you are ready to serve, form and proof the croissants: Remove the thawed dough from the refrigerator. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. Lightly dust a work surface with flour and roll into a 12×40-inch rectangle about 1⁄8 inch thick. Use a straight edge and a paring knife or pizza cutter to carefully trim 1 inch from each of the long sides; save for another use. Cut the remaining dough into 14 triangles, 4 inches at the base and 10 inches tall. Working one at a time, stretch the triangles slightly to extend them to 11 inches. Then, starting at the base, roll each tightly all the way to the tip to form an even, straight-armed croissant shape. Press slightly at the tip to adhere and to make a slightly flattened base for the croissant to rest on. Continue rolling the croissants in this manner, then transfer them, spaced evenly apart and flattened side down on the prepared baking sheets (no more than 6 croissants per baking sheet).
Preheat the oven to 400° and set the racks at least 4 inches apart. (If you only have room for 2 racks, the croissants should be baked in 2 rounds.) Set a large, wide baking dish filled with water on the floor of the oven. Place the baking sheets in a warm, preferably humid spot and let rise until the croissants are puffed, very gassy, and about doubled in size (they should slowly spring back when poked with your fingertip and jiggle slightly like gelatin when the tray is shaken), 60–80 minutes.
In a small bowl, beat the yolks and heavy cream. Brush the risen croissants evenly with the mixture and bake, without opening the oven, until the croissants begin to color, 20–22 minutes. Rotate the pans and continue cooking until evenly golden, 6–8 minutes more. Let cool slightly before serving.

Time To Make The Dough

Making the Dough Christina Holmes

Lead viennoisier, Fausto Echeverria, uses a high-fat, European-style butter from Oregon to laminate Tartine’s croissant dough. First, a thin sheet of butter is laid on top of the dough before it is folded into thirds (1). Then, Echeverria rolls the dough out a second time (2), before folding it again in thirds like a letter (3, 4). After a short rest in the fridge, the folding process is repeated once more. The dough is then rested again for several hours to relax the gluten. After the final rest, the dough can be sheeted out and shaped into croissants, danish, and morning buns.

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Changua

Megan Zhang — Wed, 28 Jun 2023 00:40:00 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY JESSIE YUCHEN; PROP STYLING BY KIM GRAY

Since the early 1800s, the tiny, beloved restaurant La Puerta Falsa in Bogotá has been serving traditional homestyle Colombian fare, with a short menu featuring tamales, ajiaco, and—the one that stayed with me the most—changua. A milky soup bobbing with jammy eggs, hunks of bread, and pungent alliums, changua is a belly-warming breakfast with an interesting amalgamation of textures and flavors. This changua recipe is adapted from the version served at La Puerta Falsa.

For the bread, almojábanas and pandebono (two Colombian varieties made with cheese), as well as calados (a type of stale bread), are popular choices—look for them at a Colombian bakery, or online. Day-old crusty country loaves or baguettes are also typical.

For the cheese, Bogotana chef Alejandra Cubillos González recommends queso Colombiano or queso campesino. When she can’t find these, she sometimes substitutes cheese curds. Or, use halloumi or low-moisture mozzarella, as Colombiana cookbook author Mariana Velasquez suggests. Though adding cheese—as Puerta Falsa does—is common, the dish is just as often made without it, depending on region and personal preference.

Featured in, “This Milky, Eggy, Cheesy Soup Comes to the Rescue on Chilly Mornings,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 4

Time: 20 minutes

3 cups 2-percent milk
3 scallions, two halved lengthwise, one finely chopped
3 cilantro sprigs, plus ¼ cup finely chopped leaves and stems
Kosher salt
6 oz. Colombian-style queso fresco, cut into ½-in. slices, optional (see headnote)
4 large eggs
6 oz. day-old bread (see headnote), cut into large bite-size pieces (3 cups, lightly packed)

Instructions

To a medium pot set over medium-high heat, add the milk, split scallions, cilantro sprigs, and 4 cups water, then lightly season with salt. When the liquid begins to boil, turn the heat to medium-low and cook at a low simmer, stirring occasionally, until the scallions are soft but still green, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the cheese if using, then crack one egg into a small cup and gently slide it into the pot; repeat with the remaining eggs. Cook, without stirring, until the whites are set and the yolks are jammy, 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Season the broth with more salt to taste.
Using tongs, discard the split scallion and cilantro sprigs. Into four serving bowls, place a few chunks of bread, then divide the soup among the bowls. Top with the chopped scallion and cilantro and serve.

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Sour-Milk Griddle Cakes

Tim Mazurek — Wed, 28 Nov 2018 17:15:19 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

In this sour-milk griddle cake recipe—adapted from Edna Lewis’ The Taste of Country Cooking —a thick, tangy batter cooks up into soft, fluffy rounds. The rustic pancakes make a delicious breakfast, especially when topped with stewed berries and maple syrup. You can use fresh or frozen blueberries to make the sauce.

Featured in “Back of the Bookshelf: The Taste of Country Cooking” by Tim Mazurek.“

Yield: 2

Time: 25 minutes

Ingredients

FOR THE SAUCE

2 cups blueberries, rinsed
⅓ cup sugar

FOR THE PANCAKES

1½ cups all-purpose flour
1⁄2 cup whole-wheat flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1⁄2 tsp. baking soda
1⁄2 tsp. fine salt
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus more for cooking
1 large egg, beaten
2 cups sour milk or buttermilk
Maple syrup, for serving

Instructions

Make the sauce: To a medium pot set over medium heat, bring the blueberries, sugar, and 1⁄3 cup of water to a boil. Turn the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the blueberries break down and the sugar dissolves, 4–5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Make the pancakes: In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Whisk in the melted butter and egg until just combined and no streaks of flour remain, then whisk in the sour milk.
In a large non-stick skillet set over medium-low heat, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. Once the foam has subsided, working in batches, use a ⅓-cup measuring cup to scoop the batter onto the pan (without crowding the surface). Cook until tiny bubbles begin to form on the tops of the pancakes and the bottoms are golden brown, 2–4 minutes. Flip and cook the other side until golden brown, 2–4 minutes more. Transfer the pancakes to a platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Add more butter to the skillet and repeat with the remaining batter. Serve immediately with the blueberry sauce and maple syrup.

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Blueberry Sauce

Emily Luchetii — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:05 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This blueberry sauce recipe from pastry chef Emily Luchetti comes together in a jiffy and only calls for a handful of ingredients. Make a batch to spoon over pancakes, waffles, or a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Use fresh or frozen blueberries to enjoy the sweet-tart taste of summer all year long.

Yield: 4

Time: 10 minutes

3 cups blueberries
½ cup sugar
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
¼ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

To a medium pot set over medium heat, add half of the blueberries and the sugar, lemon juice, and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the blueberries break down and the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining blueberries and cook until they burst, about 2 minutes more. Serve immediately, or cool completely and store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Stir in the remaining blueberries, and cook, stirring, until they burst open, about 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat and serve immediately or let cool completely and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Blueberry Sauce

Pastry chef Emily Luchetti makes this simple sauce for topping pancakes, waffles, or a scoop of ice cream. Get the recipe for Blueberry Sauce »

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Strawberry Jam

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:16 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Preserve the flavor of fresh berries with this strawberry jam recipe—perfect for spreading on toast, stuffing into breakfast tarts, and swirling into summery desserts.

Yield: makes 2 pints

5 cups fresh strawberries, washed and hulled
4 cups sugar
1 (1.75 oz.) box pectin

Instructions

In a large bowl, use a potato masher to lightly crush the strawberries. Stir in the sugar and set aside to macerate for 30 minutes.
To a small pot set over high heat, bring the pectin and ¾ cup of water to a boil. Boil, stirring continuously, until it thickly coats the back of a spoon, about 1 minute. Pour into the bowl with the strawberries and stir until the sugar is dissolved.
Into sterilized jars, pour the jam to reach ½ inch below the rims. Seal with lids and set aside to set, 6–10 hours. (The jam will keep, refrigerated, for up to 3 weeks after opening.)

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Leftover Coffee Overnight Oats

Megan Zhang — Tue, 09 May 2023 18:15:00 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling Laura Sampedro

Though day-old coffee might offer a caffeine boost, it tastes pretty bitter and acidic on its own—yet pouring it out feels like a waste. The next time you’ve got a bit of java left over in the pot, use it to make this leftover coffee overnight oats recipe. Depending on the beans’ origins and flavor profile, the morning beverage can bring earthy, floral, or chocolatey notes to an otherwise simple bowl of oatmeal. Top the oatmeal with ingredients like coarsely chopped nuts, seeds, shaved chocolate, berries, and nut butter, and coffee becomes a key player in a symphony of flavor.

When making overnight oats, look for old-fashioned oats, also called rolled oats. Other oat types, like instant or steel-cut, won’t work here. For the milk, you can swap in any plant-based milk, which would also make this recipe vegan. Leftover coffee should be covered and kept in the fridge.

Featured in, “The Latest Thing Brewing in Portland: Unsung Coffee Beans”

Yield: 1

Time: 6 hours 5 minutes

½ cup old-fashioned (rolled) oats
½ cup milk
¼ cup brewed coffee
1 Tbsp. nut butter, plus more for topping
1 Tbsp. chia seeds
½ tsp. vanilla extract
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon, plus more for sprinkling
Pinch kosher salt
Honey or maple syrup (optional)
Assorted toppings, such as: chopped nuts, seeds, shaved chocolate, sliced fruit, and berries

Instructions

In a medium bowl, resealable container, or 12-ounce Mason jar, stir together the oats, milk, coffee, nut butter, chia seeds, vanilla extract, cinnamon, and salt (and honey or maple syrup, if using). Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, up to 48 hours.
Serve the oatmeal cold or at room temperature, or uncover and warm in the microwave. Just before serving, drizzle with additional nut butter and garnish with desired toppings.

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Danny Bowien’s Breakfast Pho

Danny Bowien — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:41:58 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Danny Bowien likes to serves this steamy chicken pho for breakfast. The dish is inspired by the Vietnamese soups he ate at San Francisco’s Turtle Tower when he was a culinary student. The chef simmers the simple chicken broth for just a short period after bringing it to a boil because he feels that overcooking causes the flavor of the aromatics to go flat.

Find this recipe in our cookbook SAVEUR: Soups and Stews.

Yield: 8

Time: 9 hours 55 minutes

One 3½ –4-lb. chicken
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ oz. Thai rock sugar or 1 tbsp. sugar
3 Tbsp. plus 1 cup fish sauce, preferably Squid brand, divided
2½ lb. fresh wide rice noodles or 32 oz. dried noodles, cooked and drained
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
4 medium scallions, thinly sliced
½ large white onion, thinly sliced, rinsed, and drained
Sriracha sauce, for serving
½ cup fresh lime juice
1 jalapeño, stemmed and thinly sliced

Instructions

Using plenty of paper towels, pat the chicken dry, then place on a large rimmed baking sheet fitted with a wire rack. Season the bird generously with salt and black pepper inside and out. Transfer to the fridge and chill, uncovered, at least 8 or up to 24 hours.
To a large pot, add the chicken and 1 gallon of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn the heat down to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until the chicken is just cooked through, about 40 minutes.
Turn off the heat, then, using tongs, transfer the chicken to a cutting board or a clean rimmed baking sheet and set aside until cool enough to handle.
Remove and discard the chicken skin. Shred the meat and set it aside, then return the bones to the pot of broth. Return the pot to medium-high heat and bring the broth back up to a simmer, skimming and discarding any scum that forms along the surface, until the liquid is slightly reduced, 35–40 minutes.
Stir in the sugar and 3 tablespoons of fish sauce, then season the broth to taste with salt. Remove from the heat, set a fine mesh strainer over a clean medium pot and strain the broth into it. Add the reserved shredded chicken, set over medium heat, and cook just until warmed through. Divide the cooked noodles among 8 large soup bowls, then top with the hot broth and chicken. Garnish each serving with cilantro, scallions, onion, and sriracha. In a small bowl, stir together the remaining fish sauce, the lime juice, jalapeño, and a pinch of black pepper. Serve the chicken pho hot, with the dipping sauce on the side.

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Barbari Flatbread

Nilou Motamed — Wed, 22 Feb 2023 00:13:00 +0000

Barbari bread, or nan-e barbari, is one of my favorite Iranian breakfast foods. The chewy, dimpled flatbread pairs beautifully with everything from lacy fried eggs, to butter and honey, to feta cheese and herbs. Brew some strong black tea to enjoy alongside your breakfast.

Barbari bread is traditionally glazed with a flour paste called roomal, which is applied to the surface of the dough to produce a crisp and satiny crust. In this recipe, I’ve chosen to use a yogurt-based roomal, as this lends the bread an irresistible savory tang and beautiful caramelization.

Featured in “Feasting with Purpose.” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 2 hours 10 minutes

Ingredients

For the dough:

2¼ tsp. active dry yeast
¾ tsp. sugar
4 cups bread flour (490 g), plus more for dusting
2½ tsp. kosher salt
Vegetable oil, for greasing

For topping:

3 Tbsp. plain full-fat yogurt
⅛ tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. white sesame seeds
2 tsp. nigella seeds

Instructions

Make the dough: Into the bowl of a stand mixer, pour 1 cup of lukewarm water, then add the yeast and sugar and stir to combine. (It’s okay to leave a few clumps; the yeast will dissolve.) Cover the bowl with a tea towel or plastic wrap and set aside until the mixture becomes foamy and frothy, about 10 minutes.
In a large bowl, stir together the bread flour and salt, then add it to the yeast mixture and, using a silicone spatula, stir until the water is fully incorporated. Add ¾ cup of lukewarm water and continue stirring until a very shaggy dough forms, about 1 minute.
Place the bowl on the stand mixer and, using the hook attachment, mix on medium-low speed just until the dough is smooth, 3–4 minutes (it will be slightly sticky).
Lightly oil the large bowl from step 2, then transfer the dough into it, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm place until nearly doubled in size, 45–60 minutes.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and place a pizza stone or steel on it. Preheat to 500°F.
Place a 16-by-10-inch sheet of parchment on a clean work surface and generously dust with flour. Using a bowl scraper, cut the dough in half right in the bowl. Scoop out one half of the dough and place it on the floured parchment. Gently press and stretch the dough into a 9-inch log, dust the surface lightly with flour, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and set aside. Place a second sheet of parchment on the work surface and repeat with the second half of the dough. Set aside until the loaves are very soft and puffed but not quite doubled in size, 20–25 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the topping: In a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, salt, and 3 tablespoons of water. In a second small bowl, mix together the nigella and sesame seeds.
Uncover one of the loaves and, using your fingertips and adding flour as needed to avoid sticking, gently flatten and push the dough outward, pulling the sides apart as you go, to make a 14-by-8-inch rectangle. Using your pinky and ring fingers, press lengthwise channels into the dough, about 1 inch apart. (Push deeply, but don’t tear the dough.) Brush the surface with half of the glaze, then sprinkle with half of the nigella-sesame mixture.
Use the parchment to slide the glazed loaf onto an inverted baking sheet, then use the baking sheet to transfer onto the hot pizza stone. (You can leave the parchment underneath while it bakes.) Bake, rotating the loaf 180 degrees halfway through, until the surface and bottom are lightly but evenly browned, 10–12 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack while you repeat with the second loaf. Cool for 10 minutes, then cut crosswise into 2-inch slices and serve warm.

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