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Where to Eat and Drink in Provincetown, Massachusetts

Kelly Fields — Mon, 12 Jun 2023 14:04:49 +0000

Walter Bibikow/DigitalVision via Getty Images

At the tip of Cape Cod, on a narrow strip of land 60 miles out to sea, lies Provincetown, Massachusetts—the end of the world (or, at least, New England), and the place I’ve called home for close to two years. Locals might call me a “washashore,” but I feel like I’m exactly where I’m supposed to be.

That’s because Ptown is (per capita) the queerest town in the country and one of the most sought-out vacation spots for anyone on the LGBTQIA+ spectrum. It’s a place of extraordinary natural beauty (the dunes! the beaches! the gardens! the architecture!) as well as a playground for freedom and pride. The main drag, Commercial Street, runs the length of the town along the bay side and is home to the majority of the restaurants, clubs, shops, and galleries. During the summer, it overflows with people of all flavors of gender expression, kink, and sexuality.

Courtesy of Provincetown Tourism

I landed in Ptown after 20 years in professional kitchens ended in epic burnout. In 2021, mid-pandemic, I sold Willa Jean, my restaurant in New Orleans, and headed north. Love was waiting, as was eventual heartbreak and, ultimately, recovery and healing in Ptown.

I’m not sure if it was the sunset G&Ts with friends on the beach, the impromptu clambakes, or the slices of pizza I devoured in the street after raucous nights out, but eating my way through the city has taught me that to be a queer person in Ptown is to be part of a community. Every restaurant and bar contributes to this spirit, and these are some of my favorite places.

Nor’East Beer Garden

206 Commercial Street

Courtesy of Provincetown Tourism

The Nor’East Beer Garden is an unassuming outdoor space on Commercial Street that serves some of the best food and cocktails in Ptown. That’s because you never get bored: The culinary “theme” changes each season; this summer, it’s “light Italian,” which means you can savor dishes like mushroom pâté, burrata with fried dough, and minty brown-butter mussels.

Sal’s Place

99 Commercial Street

Sal’s is by the water in the West End, which makes for spectacular views. Cash-only and often difficult to reach by phone, Sal’s is worth the trouble of getting a reservation, whether you’re booking dinner with friends or a date. Don’t skip the cauliflower Caesar with baby romaine, which I love to order alongside the charred octopus with garbanzo beans and smoked chile oil.

Relish

93 Commercial Street

Photography by Douglas Friedman

This inviting little bakery in the West End makes a variety of breakfast and lunch sandwiches—great for a handheld meal while strolling about, or as beach picnic fare—but I always go for the pastries. Spring for a wedge of key lime tart, or grab a cookie or a slice of coffee cake.

Tea Dance at the Boatslip Resort

161 Commercial Street

Shirtless muscle gays, margarita-sipping drag queens, straight vacationers who love to party—Ptowners of all stripes congregate every afternoon at the ultimate pregame called Tea Dance (or just “Tea”), held at the Boatslip Resort from 4 to 7 p.m. The legendary bartender Maria reigns over the right side of the bar, the end closest to the water, and will happily start you off with the Planter’s Punch, their official cocktail.

Strangers & Saints

404 Commercial Street

After Tea, many revelers flock to Strangers & Saints, housed in an incredible 1850’s Greek Revival homestead. The Ken Fulk-designed interior, and well-made cocktails make for a dependably enjoyable second stop. The food goes well beyond basic bar snacks with dishes like meatballs with salsa verde and cucumber kimchi (my go-to dish), which pair nicely with the charred shishito peppers or spicy Moroccan carrots. Eating at Strangers & Saints feels like being welcomed into the home of someone with impeccable taste who loves throwing dinner parties.

The Mayflower

300 Commercial Street

Courtesy of The Mayflower

Long before Provincetown was an LGBT+ mecca, it was a Portuguese fishing village. Remnants of that past can be found at the Mayflower, where traditional Portuguese flavors endure in dishes like the Portuguese kale soup, made with spicy linguica sausage and red beans. Its obligatory sidekick is an order of garlic bread, and if you’re still feeling peckish, a dozen steamers, a Cape classic of brothy soft-shell clams that you dunk one by one in melted butter. Family-run with a no-reservations policy, the Mayflower has an old-school diner feel with a down-home friendliness to match. They also happen to make the best Manhattans in town.

Irie Eats

70 Shank Painter Road

Provincetown has a large, vibrant Jamaican population—many first arrived as seasonal workers and wound up making Ptown a year-round home. A little off the beaten path is Irie Eats, which offers spicy Jamaican food that fuels my summer season. My favorite dishes in the regular rotation are the curry goat, jerk chicken or pork, salt fish, and oxtails—all of which come with rice and red beans, and slaw. It’s a grab-and-go vibe, but they do have a small outdoor seating area to soak in the sun (and the flavor).

Pop + Dutch

147 Commercial Street

My personal “best sandwich shop” award goes to Pop + Dutch. Their slogan is “Sandwiches. Salads. Lube,” and their tiny market selling vintage, often slightly titillating textiles and art only adds to the appeal. The shop carries everything you need for a day at the beach or pool, including sunscreen and, yes, lube. The fridges are stocked with fresh potato salad, pimento cheese, chicken salad, dolmas, and a variety of drinks including a great Arnold Palmer. But the sandwiches are the main event (lately, I’ve been loving specials like turkey topped with Cool Ranch Doritos and ranch-flavored mayo). In the morning, they make a mean scrambled egg sandwich on brioche, but slugabeds be warned: It’s only available from 9 to 10:30 a.m.

Crown & Anchor

247 Commercial Street

The grande dame of Ptown is Crown & Anchor, an entertainment venue that sits in the center of town. Housing six bars and entertainment venues, a restaurant, a pool club, and a hotel, it caters to visitors and locals of all types. In 2021, it got new owners who were determined to turn the complex into a safe (and profitable!) space for queer artists, musicians, and chefs, among others. The restaurant concept changes daily, while the oyster bar is open seven days a week. Brunch (Thursday through Sunday) is hosted by yours truly and features a New Orleans-meets-New England menu. Expect my famous biscuits and gravy, plus live drag performances fueled by talent and fantasy.

Lobster Pot

321 Commercial Street

Courtesy of the Lobster Pot

The bright neon lobster sign, one of the Cape’s most recognizable images since 1979, welcomes stampedes of seafood lovers to the Lobster Pot. Tanks of fresh lobsters? Check. Ocean views? check. Consistently friendly service? Check.

The plan of action here is to venture upstairs to the “top of the pot,” snag a seat at the bar, and kick things off with a perfect bloody mary. Then, it’s lobster rolls all around—or, for the lobster-averse, a wide-reaching menu of all sorts of fish and shellfish that you can order pan-roasted, grilled, stuffed, baked, blackened, fried, and more. There are also to-go dishes around the corner at Lobster Pot Express (5 Ryder Street).

The Red Inn

15 Commercial Street

Courtesy of The Red Inn

Happy hour at the Red Inn is peak Ptown. From 2 to 4 p.m. daily, you can enjoy a raw bar menu, cocktails, and wine specials—all on a deck overlooking the beach that’s blessed with the best natural light in town. If oysters won’t cut it, chase them with heartier dishes like panko-crusted shrimp with sweet chili sauce, bacon-wrapped oysters, or shrimp remoulade salad.

Helltown Kitchen

338 Commercial Street, Unit 3

Legend has it that Provincetown, because of its remote location, used to be a hideaway for smugglers and pirates. That’s why Puritans began calling it Helltown, a nickname that inspired the name of this restaurant that blends international flavors with New England ingredients. There’s truffle-scented, South American-spiced lobster risotto studded with peas and mushrooms. And if lobster isn’t it for you, Helltown does an incredible pork vindaloo that comes with mango chutney, basmati rice, and naan to sop it all up.

Provincetown Brewing Company

141 Bradford Street

Photography by Brittany Rolfs

Provincetown Brewing Company is fueled by community activism, and its business model reflects that. Not only does the brewery donate 15 percent of proceeds to LGBTQIA+ and Outer Cape causes; it also buys from queer-owned businesses and farmers. I’m big on their artichoke-cheese dip and jerk chicken sandwich, which I wash down with a flight of whatever PBC beers happen to be on tap. Keep an eye out for themed parties, trivia nights, “fag-out Fridays,” women’s night, and even a “yappy hour” for dogs.

Atlantic House

6 Masonic Place

If Tea is where the party starts in Ptown, the Atlantic House (aka “A House”) is where it ends (or at least where last call happens). Most patrons have no idea that the establishment is a contender for the oldest gay bar in America, having been in continuous operation for over two centuries. It draws the biggest crowd of any bar in Ptown and has three spaces: little bar, macho bar, and the dance floor, where the lights are low, the music is loud, and little by little the clothes seem to disappear.

Spiritus Pizza

190 Commercial Street

Spiritus pizza is an old faithful and has become the staple stop between the party and the after party—so much so that the hour from 1 to 2 a.m. is called “pizza dance.” Spiritus is the only late food option in town, and after last call at the bars, the pizzeria fills up with hungry crowds, who overflow onto Commercial Street to revel in what’s essentially a nightly pizza party. There are three New York-style slices: cheese, pepperoni, or Greek (cash only!).

Chalice at the Land’s End Inn

22 Commercial Street

Chalice is a new favorite wine and beer bar on the manicured lawn of the Land’s End Inn, which sits atop the tallest point at the end of the Cape. Complete with a fire pit and stunning views of Provincetown and beyond, it makes an ideal pitstop on your way to Tea or pre-dinner cocktails. Look out for the pink martini flag: If you see it flying, then Chalice is open and well worth the uphill walk.

The post Where to Eat and Drink in Provincetown, Massachusetts appeared first on Saveur.

Bourbon Chocolate Pecan Pie

Kelly Fields — Thu, 21 Nov 2019 19:17:22 +0000

Photography by Jenny Huang; Food Styling by Erika Joyce

A scoop of vanilla ice cream makes a wonderful foil for the dark chocolate in the filling of this pecan pie. Jenny Huang | Food Stylist: Laura Rege | Prop Stylist: Vanessa Vazquez

Dark chocolate and a splash of bourbon add body to the pecans in this Thanksgiving pie recipe from chef Kelly Fields of Willa Jean in New Orleans.

Featured in: The Perfect Pecan Pie Is Spiked with Bourbon and Chocolate

Equipment

Yield: makes one 9-inch pie

Time: 7 hours 10 minutes

Ingredients

For the crust:

1¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
¼ tsp. kosher salt
1 stick (4 oz.) frozen unsalted butter, grated on the large holes of a box grater and re-frozen
1 tsp. distilled white vinegar mixed with ¼ cup ice water

For the filling:

2 cups pecan halves
4½ oz. dark chocolate, coarsely chopped (1 cup)
2 large eggs
⅔ cup sugar
⅔ cup Steen’s cane syrup
Pinch of kosher salt
6 Tbsp. (3 oz.) unsalted butter, melted
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. bourbon

Instructions

Make the crust: In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or using a handheld mixer, combine the flour and salt. Add the butter and beat on medium speed just until the mixture resembles coarse meal, about 45 seconds. Reduce the speed to low and drizzle in the vinegar-water mixture, about 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture just comes together (you may not use all of the liquid). Lightly flour a clean work surface and turn the dough out onto it. Press the dough into a 1-inch-thick disk, then wrap it tightly in plastic and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days (or freeze for up to 1 month).
Lightly dust a work surface with flour, then using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the dough, rotating it a quarter turn every few rolls, into a ¼-inch-thick circle. Roll the dough around the rolling pin to lift and carefully unroll it into a 9-inch glass pie plate. Settle the dough into the plate without stretching it, then tuck the overhanging edges under, gently pinching all the way around to make an even rim. Use a fork or your fingers to crimp the edges, allowing the crimp to extend up and over the edge of the pie plate a bit. (This will prevent the rim of the dough from collapsing during baking.) Freeze until completely firm, at least 1 hour.
When you are ready to bake the pie, preheat the oven to 425°F, with a rack in the center. Meanwhile, line the crust with a large sheet of parchment paper and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake, rotating once halfway through baking, until the edges are set and very light golden, 18–20 minutes. Remove the parchment and pie weights, and continue baking until the edges are light golden and the bottom no longer appears wet and doughy, 8–12 minutes more. Remove the crust from the oven and lower the temperature to 350°F.
Make the filling: In a medium bowl, toss together the pecans and chocolate, then sprinkle the mixture in the prepared pie shell and set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, cane syrup, and salt. Stir in the melted butter and bourbon, then pour the mixture over the pecans and chocolate. Place the pie on a flat, rimmed baking sheet; bake, rotating once halfway through, until the center is just set, 60–65 minutes. (If the edges begin to darken before the filling is set, cover them with strips of aluminum foil.) Transfer the pie to a wire rack and let cool completely, then cut into wedges and serve with ice cream, if desired. The pie can be stored at room temperature for up to 5 days.

The post Bourbon Chocolate Pecan Pie appeared first on Saveur.

New Orleans Doberge Cake

Kelly Fields — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:24:26 +0000

New Orleans Doberge Cake. Ryan Liebe | Food Styling Mariana Velasquez

This New Orleans-style cake, a cousin of Hungary’s Dobos torte, came to the United States in the 1930s and was transformed into doberge (pronounced DOH-bash) cake. Chef Kelly Fields of Willa Jean in New Orleans encases her mammoth creation in rich vanilla buttercream and creamy chocolate ganache.

Featured in: How Smith Island Cake Got Its Stripes

What You Will Need

Yield: serves 12-16

Time: 15 hours

Ingredients

For the Chocolate Filling, Lemon Curd, and German Buttercream

1 ¹⁄₄ cups plus 2 tbsp sugar, divided
2 tbsp. plus 2 1/2 tsp. constarch, divided
1 tbsp. cocoa powder
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt, divided
5 large eggs, divided, plus 5 large egg yolks, divided
³⁄₄ cup heavy cream
1 ³⁄₄ cups whole milk, divided
1 vanilla bean, halved, each half split and seeds scraped
4 oz. (70 percent) dark chocolate, finely chopped
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, divided, cubed, plus 1 lb. (4 sticks) softened
¹⁄₄ cup lemon zest
¹⁄₂ cup lemon juice

For the Cake, Simple Syrup, and Chocolate Ganache

3 ¹⁄₂ cups (1 lb. 1/4 oz.) cake flour
2 tbsp. baking powder
1 cup buttermilk
1 tbsp. sour cream
1 tsp. vanilla extract
3 cups sugar, divided
12 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
1 ¹⁄₄ tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
4 large eggs, separated
12 oz. (70 percent) dark chocolate, finely chopped
1 ¹⁄₂ cups heavy cream

Instructions

Make the chocolate filling: In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk 1⁄4 cup sugar with 1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. cornstarch, cocoa powder, and 1 tsp. salt. Whisk in 1 egg until smooth, then whisk in the cream, 3⁄4 cup milk, and seeds from 1⁄2 the vanilla bean. Place the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the filling thickens to the consistency of loose pudding, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the chocolate and 2 tbsp. cubed butter until smooth. Scrape the filling through a fine sieve into a bowl. Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the filling and refrigerate until chilled and thickened, at least 4 hours.
Make the lemon curd filling: In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk 1⁄2 cup sugar with 1⁄2 tsp. salt, 3 whole eggs, and 4 egg yolks until smooth, then whisk in the lemon zest and juice. Place the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the filling thickens to the consistency of loose pudding, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in 4 tbsp. cubed butter until smooth. Scrape the filling through a fine sieve into a bowl. Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the filling and refrigerate until chilled and thickened, at least 4 hours.
Make the German buttercream: In a small heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tbsp. sugar with 1 tbsp. plus 1 1⁄2 tsp. cornstarch, 1 whole egg and 1 egg yolk, and remaining vanilla seeds until smooth, then whisk in the milk. Place the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens to the consistency of loose pudding, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and scrape the pudding through a fine sieve into a bowl. Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the pudding and refrigerate until chilled and thickened, at least 2 hours.
Scrape the vanilla pudding into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle and turn the mixer on to medium speed. Add 1 tablespoon of the softened butter and let the butter disappear into the pudding before adding another tablespoon. Repeat adding butter in this manner until the buttercream is smooth, pale, and fluffy, about 8 minutes from start to finish. (The buttercream will look curdled at first, but will smooth out by the time the last of the softened butter is added.) Scrape the buttercream into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. If not using right away, refrigerate the buttercream for up to 5 days. Allow it to return to room temperature and beat it again in the stand mixer until fluffy before using.
Make the cake layers: Heat the oven to 375°. Line three 9-inch round cake pans with parchment paper circles and spray with nonstick baking spray. Sift the cake flour into a large bowl, then whisk in the baking powder. In a liquid measuring cup, whisk the buttermilk with the sour cream and vanilla until smooth. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, cream 2 cups sugar with the butter and 3⁄4 tsp. salt on medium speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the lemon zest followed by the egg yolks, adding one at a time, beating well after each addition until smooth. Reduce the mixer speed to low and alternately add the dry ingredients in 3 batches and the wet ingredients in 2 batches, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients, and beat until the batter just comes together. Using a rubber spatula, stir the batter again until smooth then scrape it into a large bowl. Clean and dry the bowl, return to the stand mixer, and fit with a whisk. Add the egg whites to the bowl and beat on medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Scrape the egg whites into the cake batter and gently fold until combined and smooth.
Divide the cake batter among the prepared cake pans and, using a small offset spatula, spread the batter evenly in each pan. Bake the cakes, rotating the pans halfway through cooking, until lightly browned and a toothpick inserted in the middle of each comes out clean, 20 to 22 minutes. Transfer the pans to a rack and let the cakes cool completely, then invert the cakes onto the rack and remove the parchment paper. Once the cakes are completely cooled, use a serrated knife to halve each horizontally to produce 6 cake layers total. While the cakes cool, make the simple syrup: In a small saucepan, combine the remaining 1 cup sugar with 1 cup water and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Boil the syrup for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and let cool completely.
Assemble the cake: Using a pastry brush, brush each cake layer with some of the simple syrup, discarding any leftover syrup. Using a small offset spatula, spread 3 cake layers each with one-third of the chocolate filling. Spread 2 cake layers each with half the lemon filling. Place 1 chocolate-covered cake layer on a cake stand, then quickly stack the remaining cake layers, alternating the lemon and chocolate fillings, and ending with the final, plain cake layer. Refrigerate the stacked cakes for 30 minutes. Using a small offset spatula spread the top and sides with the German buttercream until smooth. Place the cake in the freezer for 30 minutes.
While the cake is in the freezer, make the ganache: Place the chocolate in a medium bowl. In a small saucepan, heat the cream and 1⁄2 tsp. salt over medium until it begins to bubble at the edges. Remove the pan from the heat, pour the hot cream over the chocolate, and let stand, undisturbed, for 1 minute. Whisk the chocolate and cream from the center until the ganache is smooth and shiny. Remove the cake from the freezer and slowly pour the ganache over the top of the cake, using the offset spatula to guide and spread it over the side, until the cake is completely coated in the ganache. (You can also let the ganache drip down the side of the cake and set naturally, if you like.) Let the cake stand for about 10 minutes to allow the ganache to set before serving. Store the cake, wrapped in plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week (allow it to return to room temperature before serving).

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