Protein | Saveur

Tuna Crudo with Chamomile Oil, Cucumber Salad, and Pea Shoots

Molly Levine — Sat, 12 Aug 2023 00:45:00 +0000

Photography by Daniel Seung Lee; Art Direction by Kate Berry

In New York’s Hudson Valley, the height of summer means that the first lettuces and hearty greens of spring are finally replaced by more delicate herbs and tender vegetables at roadside stands supplied by local growers like Migliorelli Farm. This crudo with chamomile oil and cucumber salad is a celebration of those elusive seasonal delights. While “oils” often imply infusions or tinctures, this is an incredibly unfussy dish that does little to manipulate the fresh flowers. The only tool required is one of the oldest: a mortar and pestle. This tuna crudo recipe also leaves a lot of room for adaptation and substitution. “I am a stickler for sourcing, so I wait until tuna is being caught in Montauk from fishermen I trust,” explains chef Molly Levine of Westerly Canteen. “This recipe could easily sub in fluke, or halibut from the West Coast, or any other delicate fish that you would eat raw.”

If you can’t get fresh chamomile flowers, anise hyssop, fennel, or dill flowers are excellent substitutes.

Featured in “Our New Favorite Single Malt Whisky Comes From … New York?” by Shane Mitchell.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

½ cup fresh chamomile flowers
1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest
¾ cup olive oil
Kosher salt, to taste
3 small cucumbers
12 oz. fresh bigeye tuna, bloodline removed
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. finely grated lime zest
1½ Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 oz. (about 2 cups) pea shoots
Flaky salt

Instructions

Make the chamomile oil: In a mortar and pestle, pound the flowers until they just start to break down. Add the lemon zest and continue pounding until a coarse paste forms. Add the olive oil and season with kosher salt to taste. Set aside for at least 30 minutes so the flavors can infuse into the oil.
Make the cucumber salad: Slice half of the cucumbers into thin rounds and the other half into small bite-size chunks, transfer to a medium bowl, then add the lemon juice, lime zest, and lime juice, and season lightly with kosher salt.
Using a very sharp knife, cut the tuna along the grain into thin slices. Arrange the slices in a single layer on a serving plate or platter, season lightly with kosher salt, then drizzle over about half of the chamomile oil. Arrange the cucumber slices atop the fish and arrange the cucumber chunks around the edges of the plate. To the bowl that held the cucumbers, add the pea shoots and toss to soak up any remaining dressing. Pile the pea shoots atop the cucumber slices. Drizzle over the remaining chamomile oil and sprinkle with flaky salt. Serve tuna crudo immediately.

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Braised Rabbit with Pan-Fried Radishes and Creamy Polenta

Eliza Glaister — Sat, 12 Aug 2023 00:45:00 +0000

Photography by Daniel Seung Lee; Art Direction by Kate Berry

Chef Eliza Glaister grew up in New York’s Hudson Valley, where her cooking was influenced by neighboring farmers and wild game purveyors like Quattro’s Farm. This braised rabbit recipe, served over creamy polenta and topped with pan-fried radishes and leek oil, is a summer favorite. “When preparing game with little to no fat, especially rabbit, braising it is a wonderful method,” she says. “Cooking seasonally means working with ingredients that are all growing together at the same time and place. They end up just working well together. The radish and dandelion greens add a big punch of peppery bitterness to this succulent braise.”

Featured in “Our New Favorite Single Malt Whisky Comes From … New York?” by Shane Mitchell.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours

Ingredients

For the rabbit:

1 medium leek, washed
1 whole 2½–3 lb. rabbit
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups chicken stock
2 cups dry white wine
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano leaves
6 fresh bay leaves, or 12 dried
6 juniper berries
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

For the vegetables:

1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 bunch red radishes (8–12 oz.), greens left attached, scrubbed and halved lengthwise
12 large dandelion leaves
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Kosher salt

For the grits:

2 cups whole milk, divided
½ cup fine yellow grits or polenta
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Kosher salt, to taste

Instructions

Make the rabbit: Discard any dry or discolored green parts of the leek, then coarsely chop the remaining greens and reserve. Slice the white end into 1-inch-thick rounds and set aside. To a large Dutch oven, add the rabbit and 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat to medium and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Add the chicken stock, white wine, oregano, leek rounds, bay leaves, and juniper berries. When the liquid begins to boil, cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Simmer, rotating the rabbit halfway through cooking, until the rabbit is tender, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat.
Meanwhile, in a food processor, purée the leek greens and remaining oil, then strain into a bowl and season with salt to taste. (Refrigerated, the sauce will keep for one month.)
Using tongs, transfer the rabbit to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, pick the meat from the bones (discard the bones, or reserve them to make a stock) and return it to the pot. Stir in the mustard and salt and black pepper to taste, then turn the heat to low and continue to cook, uncovered, until thickened slightly, 10–15 minutes.
Make the vegetables: To a skillet set over medium-low heat, add the oil, butter, radishes, dandelion leaves, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the radishes are fork tender, 6–10 minutes. Season with salt and set aside.
Make the grits: In a medium pot, bring 1 cup of the milk and 1 cup of water to a boil. Season with salt, then turn the heat to low and add the grits. Cook, whisking continuously, until thickened, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the butter and remaining milk and season with salt to taste.
To serve, scrape the grits onto a platter. Using a slotted spoon, top evenly with the braised rabbit, then spoon with the cooking liquid. Top with the vegetables, then drizzle with the leek oil and serve.

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Thai Green Mango Salad (Som Tum Mamuang)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:01 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

A street food favorite in the night markets of Thailand, this Thai green mango salad recipe, known as som tum mamuang, is a refreshing adaptation of a more widely known version made with papaya. Usually served as an appetizer, this spicy-sweet salad makes splendid use of crunchy and tart unripe mangoes.

A fruit shredder can make quick work of slicing the mangoes. A mortar and pestle is also key for extracting flavor and fragrance from the aromatics and fruit (and is a worthwhile investment for all kinds of cooking). When making this dish, cooks in Thailand traditionally use a larger mortar than what is typically found in the U.S.

This recipe originally ran in our June/July 2010 print issue with the story “Everything Is Illuminated,” by James Oseland.

Yield: 2

Time: 25 minutes

2 Tbsp. small dried shrimp
8 red bird’s eye chiles, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ medium shallot, finely chopped
3 small, green unripe mangoes (about 1½ lbs.), peeled and cut into thin matchsticks
18 green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-in. lengths
14 grape tomatoes, halved
3 Tbsp. fish sauce
2 Tbsp. lime juice
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. palm sugar or brown sugar
2 Tbsp. roasted unsalted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Instructions

In a large mortar and pestle, pound the shrimp until coarsely ground; transfer to a small bowl and set aside. To the mortar, add the chiles, garlic, and shallot and pound until bruised. Working in batches, add the mangoes and pound, using a spoon to scrape the sides and combine well after each batch, until the fruit is softened slightly and fully coated in the aromatics. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and set aside.
To the mortar, add the green beans and tomatoes and lightly pound to extract their juices. Stir in the fish sauce, lime juice, and sugar, then transfer to the bowl with the mango mixture and toss well. Transfer to a serving bowl or platter, garnish with the crushed dried shrimp and peanuts, and serve at room temperature.

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Nova Scotian Griddled Fish Cakes

Valerie Mansour — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:59 +0000

Hannah Whitaker

Haddock is often used for these Canadian fish cakes, though any firm white fish will do. This recipe, which has been adapted from Nova Scotia Cookery, Then and Now, creates tender cakes with golden edges. If you like, the mixture may be shaped into patties a day ahead of time and refrigerated, but for the best texture don’t roll the cakes in bread crumbs until just before frying. Green tomato chow-chow is an excellent accompaniment; find the recipe here.

This recipe is featured in “The Underexplored Roots of Black Cooking in Nova Scotia.”

Yield: 8

Time: 1 hour 40 minutes

1 small Yukon Gold potato (5 oz.), peeled
2 lb. firm white fish fillets (haddock, cod, or hake)
1 ¹⁄₂ cup bread crumbs
¹⁄₄ cup finely chopped parsley
¹⁄₄ cup finely chopped scallion
¹⁄₄ cup sour cream
¹⁄₄ tsp. cayenne pepper
Fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Green tomato chow-chow, for serving (optional)

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
To a small pot, add the potato and enough cold water to cover; bring to a boil over high heat and cook until the potato is tender when pierced with a knife, 13–15 minutes. Drain, and let cool. When the potato is cool enough to touch, coarsely mash with a fork and set aside.
Meanwhile, cook the fish: Set the fillets on the baking sheet, transfer to the oven, and roast until the fish flakes easily, about 15 minutes.
Pour the bread crumbs onto a plate and set aside. Remove the fish from the oven and cool slightly. In a large bowl, break the fish into chunks. Add the mashed potato, parsley, scallion, sour cream, and cayenne; mix well, then season to taste with fresh lemon juice, kosher salt, and black pepper. Form the mixture into eight patties, then roll each in bread crumbs.
Line a platter with paper towels and set by the stove. To a heavy skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil. Once hot, add the fish cakes in batches and cook, turning once, until golden brown and heated through, 3–4 minutes per side. Transfer the cakes to the platter and serve hot, with green tomato chow-chow, if desired.

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Custardy French Toast

Megan Heine — Mon, 31 Jul 2023 21:00:00 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Shortly after Brockton Villa Restaurant opened its doors along the shores of La Jolla, California, the eatery’s French toast became its bestselling menu item. Brockton Villa’s Coast Toast recipe is a famously pillowy, custardy take on the classic dish that calls for grilling the bread first in order to brown it, then placing it in the oven so the egg-and-cream-soaked toast swells up like a soufflé. Orange juice and orange curaçao (look for the liqueur at a liquor store, or online) infuse the bread with a subtle, delightful citrusy aroma.

Owner Megan Heine named the recipe (and trademarked the moniker) as a nod to the restaurant’s waterfront location overlooking the Pacific. As customers enjoy their brunch on the balcony of the renovated beach bungalow, they have a front-row seat to waves crashing on the golden sands below, and sea lions sunbathing in La Jolla Cove. Can you think of any better way to spend a morning in Southern California?—Megan Zhang

Featured in “The Coastal Village That Runs on Breakfast,” by Megan Zhang.

Yield: 3–6

Time: 1 hour 25 minutes

5 large eggs
2 cups heavy cream
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. orange juice
¼ cup sugar
1 Tbsp. vanilla extract
1 Tbsp. orange curaçao
Pinch of kosher salt
½ loaf soft French bread, sliced on the bias into six 1½-in.-thick slices
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
Powdered sugar, for garnish
Ice cream, strawberries, jam, and/or maple syrup, for serving (optional)

Instructions

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, orange juice, sugar, vanilla, curaçao, and salt. Add the bread, toss to coat, cover and refrigerate for one hour.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set it by the stove.
In a large skillet or flat grill pan over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. When the foam begins to subside, place 2 slices of custard-soaked bread in the skillet and cook until the bottom turns golden-brown, 2–3 minutes; flip and continue cooking until the slices are golden-brown on the other side, 2–3 minutes more. Transfer to the lined baking sheet, and set aside as you continue searing the remaining slices, wiping out the skillet and adding a fresh tablespoon of butter between batches.
Bake the toasts just until puffed, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter or individual dessert plates, dust with powdered sugar, and serve immediately, with ice cream, berries, jam, and maple syrup on the side, if desired.

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Moussaka (Greek Eggplant Casserole)

Aglaia Kremezi — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:15 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

A good moussaka is “one of the most fabulous things you can eat,” according to Aglaia Kremezi, author of Mediterranean Hot and Spicy. Her recipe for the Greek eggplant casserole, inherited from her mother, is a labor of love requiring sautéing, frying, boiling, and baking—but it’s well worth the trouble. The components (meat sauce, béchamel, and fried eggplant and potatoes) can be prepared the day before assembling.

Yield: 8-10

Time: 4 hours 40 minutes

2 cups plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 bay leaves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 lb. ground beef
¼ cup tomato paste
1½ tsp. ground cinnamon, divided, plus more for dusting
½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg, divided
¼ tsp. ground cloves
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups whole milk
4 large eggs
3 large eggplants, sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
5 medium russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
1 cup coarsely grated graviera cheese, or Gruyère
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large pot set over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of the oil, the bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, 5–7 minutes. Add the beef and cook until browned and all the liquid has evaporated, about 30 minutes.
Add the tomato paste, 1¼ teaspoons of the ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon of the nutmeg, and the cloves and cook until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, tomatoes, and 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until nearly all the liquid has evaporated, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat, then discard the cinnamon sticks and bay leaves. Season generously with salt and black pepper and set aside.
Meanwhile, make the béchamel: In a medium bowl, beat the eggs. Melt the butter in a medium pot set over medium-high heat. Whisk in the flour and cook until light golden, about 2 minutes. Whisk in 1½ teaspoons of salt, the milk, and the remaining cinnamon and nutmeg. Cook, whisking frequently, until thick, about 10 minutes. Ladle about 1 cup of the béchamel into the egg, then whisk to combine. Pour the egg mixture back into the pot, then whisk until smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the remaining oil. Lightly dust the eggplant slices with cinnamon slices. When the oil is hot and shimmering, working in batches, fry the eggplant (turning once) until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then add the potatoes and cook until barely tender, 8–10 minutes. Drain and transfer to an ice bath. When cool, drain and set aside.
On the bottom of a 10-by-14-inch baking dish, spread 1 cup of the béchamel. Sprinkle with ⅓ cup of the graviera. Spread the potatoes evenly over the cheese, then cover evenly with the eggplant. Pour the meat sauce over the top, then spread with the remaining béchamel. Top with the remaining graviera. Bake until bubbling and golden brown, about 1 hour.

Around the World in 26 Eggplant Recipes

Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

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Carbone’s Cherry Pepper Ribs

Mario Carbone — Sat, 22 Jul 2023 06:53:08 +0000

Photography by Anthony Mair; Courtesy of MGM Resorts International

At New York City’s Carbone—and its younger Las Vegas outpost in Aria Resort—Berkshire pork spare ribs from Heritage Foods are brushed with a sweet, garlic glaze, finished over a wood fire, then topped with a mixture of fresh and pickled chiles. “I love this dish because it’s completely non-traditional to the Italian-American menu,” says chef Mario Carbone. “It’s a curveball that we throw, but somehow, once it hits the table, it looks perfectly at home.”

Fresh cherry peppers come into season in late summer and often can be found at farmers markets and Italian grocery stores. (If you can’t track them down, though, thinly sliced green jalapeños will get the job done.) Pickled cherry peppers are available year-round in well-stocked supermarkets and online. The individual components of this recipe can be made a day or more ahead of time, and the final step is a quick and easy one, making Carbone’s cherry pepper ribs an impressive flex for outdoor entertaining. At his restaurants, the ribs are served over a bed of coleslaw, but any crunchy fresh salad would make a fine accompaniment. — Kat Craddock

Note: Slow cooking the meat in a layer of plastic wrap seals in its flavor and moisture, mimicking the effect of sous vide cooking. However, if you prefer not to cook in plastic, you may also omit this layer and bake only aluminum foil. We tested a plastic-free version and found the ribs still came out tender and juicy.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 12 hours

Ingredients

For the brined ribs:

1½ cup kosher salt
⅓ cup sugar
1 medium lemon, halved crosswise
1 whole garlic head, halved crosswise
2 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns
1¾ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
One 4-lb. pound rack spare ribs

For the spice rub:

2 Tbsp. whole fennel seed
1½ tsp. crushed red chile flake
⅓ cup light brown sugar
2 Tbsp. garlic powder
2 Tbsp. onion powder
1½ tsp. dried oregano

For the roasted garlic gaze:

1 cup olive oil, plus more
Garlic cloves from 1 large head, peeled
½ cup sugar
½ cup red wine vinegar

For serving:

½ cup fresh cherry peppers, stemmed and thinly sliced
½ cup sweet or hot pickled cherry peppers, stemmed, seeded, and quartered
Shredded cabbage or coleslaw (optional)

Instructions

To a large pot over high heat, add 2 quarts water and the salt and sugar. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Add 2 quarts cool water, the lemon and garlic halves, and the black peppercorns and chile flakes, then transfer the brine to a large enough container in which to submerge the meat. Add the ribs to the brine, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least 6 and up to 24 hours.
Meanwhile, make the spice rub: In a spice grinder or small food processor, grind the fennel seeds and chile flakes to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl, stir in the brown sugar, garlic and onion powders, and oregano, and set aside.
Make the roasted garlic glaze: Preheat the oven to 300°F. To a small ovenproof pot or baking dish, add the olive oil and garlic, adding more oil as needed to fully submerge the cloves. Cover tightly with a lid or aluminum foil and bake until the garlic is golden and very tender when poked with a fork, about 1 hour.
Carefully remove the pot from the oven and set it aside to cool to room temperature. Transfer the garlic cloves to a cutting board and, using a chefs knife, smash and chop to a fine paste. Reserve both the garlic paste and the garlic-infused oil.
In a small pot over medium heat, stir together the sugar and red wine vinegar. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid has reduced in volume by half and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat, cool slightly, and stir in the roasted garlic paste. Set the glaze aside.
Cook the ribs: Turn the oven down to 275°F. Arrange a few long layers of plastic wrap over a large work surface. Transfer the ribs to the plastic wrap, discarding the brine. Sprinkle the spice rub all over the rack, turning a few times to completely coat. Wrap the plastic up and around the ribs tightly, then wrap tightly in aluminum foil.
Transfer the packet of ribs to a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until the meat is tender when poked with a knife, but not yet falling off the bone, about 2½ hours. Remove the tray from the oven and set aside without unwrapping until cool enough to handle, 15–20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat a grill, grill pan, or broiler to cook over (or under) medium heat.
Working over the baking sheet to catch any accumulated juices, remove and discard both the foil and the plastic wrap. Pat the cooked ribs dry with paper towels and transfer to a clean, dry cutting board.
Using a sharp chefs knife, cut straight down between each bone to divide the rack into individual ribs. Brush each rib lightly with the reserved garlic-infused oil. If finishing under the broiler, arrange the ribs in a single layer on a dry baking sheet.
A few minutes before you plan to serve the ribs, grill or boil them, turning occasionally, until lightly browned all over, about 10 minutes. Brush generously with the reserved glaze and continue cooking until the glaze is sticky and lightly caramelized, 5–7 minutes more. Transfer to a platter, top with fresh and pickled chiles, and serve the cherry pepper ribs hot, with coleslaw or shredded cabbage on the side, if desired.

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Bamonte’s Pork Chops with Pickled Peppers

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:08 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

These juicy pork chops with pickled peppers have been a menu staple at Bamonte’s restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, since the 1950s. Both sweet and hot pickled cherry peppers are available at Italian grocery stores and online; if you’re sensitive to spicy foods, use either all sweet peppers or a mix of the two.

This recipe first appeared in our January/February 2013 issue along with Greg Ferro‘s article “Bamonte’s”.

Yield: 2–4

Time: 26 minutes

Two 1-in.-thick bone-in pork chops
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
12 pickled cherry peppers, halved
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup chicken stock

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 425° F. Season the chops generously with salt and black pepper.
To a large skillet over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the chops and cook, flipping once, until evenly browned, 5–8 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until the chops are just cooked through (145°F on an instant read thermometer), 18–20 minutes. Transfer chops to a plate and set aside (the meat will continue cooking as it rests).
Return the skillet to the stovetop over medium heat, add the remaining oil, garlic, and peppers, and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is golden, 3–4 minutes. Turn the heat up to high, stir in the wine and stock, and continue cooking until the liquid has reduced in volume by half, 3–4 minutes. Spoon the sauce and peppers over the pork chops and serve hot.

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Cake d’Alsace (Bacon, Gruyère, and Caramelized Onion Loaf)

Aleksandra Crapanzano — Fri, 21 Jul 2023 14:59:34 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

“Cake salé” is a catch-all term for the humble savory loaves popular among French home cooks. This Alsace-inspired variation, studded with bacon, Gruyère, and caramelized onion, tastes great straight from the oven, but it’s even better reheated (cooling it completely tenderizes the crumb). Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.

Featured in “Is This Humble Dish France’s Best-Kept Culinary Secret?” by Emily Monaco.

Yield: Makes 1 loaf

Time: 1 hour 35 minutes

5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus more as needed
8 oz. bacon, cut crosswise into ¼-in. lardons
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 cup full-fat (whole) buttermilk
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
2 large eggs, preferably at room temperature
2½ cups all-purpose flour (10½ oz.)
1½ tsp. baking powder
¾ tsp. fine salt
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
8 oz. grated Comté, Gruyère, or aged cheddar (2 cups)
3 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Butter and flour a metal 9-by-5-inch loaf pan, tapping out any excess flour.
In a large skillet set over low heat, cook the lardons until golden brown and their fat has rendered, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a small bowl.
To the pan with the rendered fat, add the onion and turn the heat to medium. (If the pan looks dry, add a tablespoon of butter.) Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, oil, and eggs, then whisk in the melted butter.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda, and black pepper. Stir in the cheese, parsley, and reserved bacon. Add the buttermilk mixture, then use a silicone spatula to fold together the wet and dry ingredients until no streaks of flour remain.
Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean or with a few crumbs attached, 45–50 minutes. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before unmolding, then serve warm or at room temperature.

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Bun Cha (Grilled Vietnamese Meatballs with Rice Vermicelli)

Kate Berry — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:48 +0000

Photography by David Malosh; Food Styling by Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

SAVEUR’s chief content officer Kate Berry was born in Southern Vietnam, though she is particularly fond of these Northern-style grilled meatballs, which she tasted for the first time in a restaurant here in the States. According to the classic bun cha recipe, the slightly flattened meatballs are cooked over a wood or charcoal fire, but she finds that a stovetop grill pan is a great substitute for achieving the dish’s requisite char and smoky flavor.

Bun cha is usually served with a light and brothy dipping sauce; Berry suggests swirling the grilled meatballs directly in the condiment—fortifying it with their flavorful juices—before pouring the liquid liberally over the noodles and topping with fresh herbs. A side of crunchy do chua—Vietnamese carrot-daikon pickle—lends the rich pork an extra layer of freshness and crunch; find our recipe here. If cooking the meatballs on a wide-set grill, thread the meatballs on a skewer to prevent them from falling through the grates.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Ingredients

For the meatballs:

¼ cup fish sauce, preferably Vietnamese-style
3 Tbsp. turbinado sugar
1 large shallot, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 lemongrass stalks, outer layers removed, coarsely chopped
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 lb. ground pork

For the dipping sauce:

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fish sauce, preferably Vietnamese-style
⅓ cup turbinado sugar
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. coconut water
¼ cup fresh lime juice
4 garlic cloves, grated
1–2 red bird’s-eye chiles (optional)

For serving:

Leaves from 1 head soft lettuce, such as red or green leaf or Bibb
2 medium cucumbers, thinly sliced on the bias
Fresh herb sprigs, such as Thai basil, cilantro, mint, shiso, rau ram, or sawtooth
Rice vermicelli noodles, cooked according to package instructions and chilled

Instructions

Make the meatballs: In a medium bowl, whisk together the fish sauce and sugar until the sugar dissolves. To a small food processor, add the shallot, garlic, and lemongrass until finely chopped (or finely chop using a chef’s knife). Stir the chopped aromatics and black pepper into the sugar mixture, then add the pork, stirring with clean hands to combine. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce: In a medium bowl, stir together the fish sauce, sugar, coconut water, lime juice, garlic, chiles (if using), and ½ cup cool water until the sugar dissolves. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Preheat a grill over medium heat, or a well-seasoned grill-pan over medium-high heat. Place a clean, large platter by the grill or stove.
Divide the chilled meatball mixture into twenty 2-ounce portions (a scant ¼ cup per meatball). Gently roll each portion into a ball, then press gently between your palms to slightly flatten on 2 sides. (This will make the meatballs easier to grill; do not fully flatten into patties). Grill the meatballs, turning once, until deeply charred on both sides and cooked through, 5–10 minutes. Transfer the meatballs to the platter; serve the bun cha hot, with the reserved dipping sauce, lettuce leaves, cucumbers, and herbs on the side.

Do Chua (Vietnamese Carrot Daikon Pickle)

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MALOSH; FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

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