Recipes by Technique | Saveur

Braised Rabbit with Pan-Fried Radishes and Creamy Polenta

Eliza Glaister — Sat, 12 Aug 2023 00:45:00 +0000

Photography by Daniel Seung Lee; Art Direction by Kate Berry

Chef Eliza Glaister grew up in New York’s Hudson Valley, where her cooking was influenced by neighboring farmers and wild game purveyors like Quattro’s Farm. This braised rabbit recipe, served over creamy polenta and topped with pan-fried radishes and leek oil, is a summer favorite. “When preparing game with little to no fat, especially rabbit, braising it is a wonderful method,” she says. “Cooking seasonally means working with ingredients that are all growing together at the same time and place. They end up just working well together. The radish and dandelion greens add a big punch of peppery bitterness to this succulent braise.”

Featured in “Our New Favorite Single Malt Whisky Comes From … New York?” by Shane Mitchell.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 2 hours

Ingredients

For the rabbit:

1 medium leek, washed
1 whole 2½–3 lb. rabbit
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups chicken stock
2 cups dry white wine
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano leaves
6 fresh bay leaves, or 12 dried
6 juniper berries
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

For the vegetables:

1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 bunch red radishes (8–12 oz.), greens left attached, scrubbed and halved lengthwise
12 large dandelion leaves
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Kosher salt

For the grits:

2 cups whole milk, divided
½ cup fine yellow grits or polenta
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Kosher salt, to taste

Instructions

Make the rabbit: Discard any dry or discolored green parts of the leek, then coarsely chop the remaining greens and reserve. Slice the white end into 1-inch-thick rounds and set aside. To a large Dutch oven, add the rabbit and 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat to medium and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Add the chicken stock, white wine, oregano, leek rounds, bay leaves, and juniper berries. When the liquid begins to boil, cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Simmer, rotating the rabbit halfway through cooking, until the rabbit is tender, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat.
Meanwhile, in a food processor, purée the leek greens and remaining oil, then strain into a bowl and season with salt to taste. (Refrigerated, the sauce will keep for one month.)
Using tongs, transfer the rabbit to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, pick the meat from the bones (discard the bones, or reserve them to make a stock) and return it to the pot. Stir in the mustard and salt and black pepper to taste, then turn the heat to low and continue to cook, uncovered, until thickened slightly, 10–15 minutes.
Make the vegetables: To a skillet set over medium-low heat, add the oil, butter, radishes, dandelion leaves, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the radishes are fork tender, 6–10 minutes. Season with salt and set aside.
Make the grits: In a medium pot, bring 1 cup of the milk and 1 cup of water to a boil. Season with salt, then turn the heat to low and add the grits. Cook, whisking continuously, until thickened, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the butter and remaining milk and season with salt to taste.
To serve, scrape the grits onto a platter. Using a slotted spoon, top evenly with the braised rabbit, then spoon with the cooking liquid. Top with the vegetables, then drizzle with the leek oil and serve.

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Carbone’s Cherry Pepper Ribs

Mario Carbone — Sat, 22 Jul 2023 06:53:08 +0000

Photography by Anthony Mair; Courtesy of MGM Resorts International

At New York City’s Carbone—and its younger Las Vegas outpost in Aria Resort—Berkshire pork spare ribs from Heritage Foods are brushed with a sweet, garlic glaze, finished over a wood fire, then topped with a mixture of fresh and pickled chiles. “I love this dish because it’s completely non-traditional to the Italian-American menu,” says chef Mario Carbone. “It’s a curveball that we throw, but somehow, once it hits the table, it looks perfectly at home.”

Fresh cherry peppers come into season in late summer and often can be found at farmers markets and Italian grocery stores. (If you can’t track them down, though, thinly sliced green jalapeños will get the job done.) Pickled cherry peppers are available year-round in well-stocked supermarkets and online. The individual components of this recipe can be made a day or more ahead of time, and the final step is a quick and easy one, making Carbone’s cherry pepper ribs an impressive flex for outdoor entertaining. At his restaurants, the ribs are served over a bed of coleslaw, but any crunchy fresh salad would make a fine accompaniment. — Kat Craddock

Note: Slow cooking the meat in a layer of plastic wrap seals in its flavor and moisture, mimicking the effect of sous vide cooking. However, if you prefer not to cook in plastic, you may also omit this layer and bake only aluminum foil. We tested a plastic-free version and found the ribs still came out tender and juicy.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 12 hours

Ingredients

For the brined ribs:

1½ cup kosher salt
⅓ cup sugar
1 medium lemon, halved crosswise
1 whole garlic head, halved crosswise
2 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns
1¾ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
One 4-lb. pound rack spare ribs

For the spice rub:

2 Tbsp. whole fennel seed
1½ tsp. crushed red chile flake
⅓ cup light brown sugar
2 Tbsp. garlic powder
2 Tbsp. onion powder
1½ tsp. dried oregano

For the roasted garlic gaze:

1 cup olive oil, plus more
Garlic cloves from 1 large head, peeled
½ cup sugar
½ cup red wine vinegar

For serving:

½ cup fresh cherry peppers, stemmed and thinly sliced
½ cup sweet or hot pickled cherry peppers, stemmed, seeded, and quartered
Shredded cabbage or coleslaw (optional)

Instructions

To a large pot over high heat, add 2 quarts water and the salt and sugar. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Add 2 quarts cool water, the lemon and garlic halves, and the black peppercorns and chile flakes, then transfer the brine to a large enough container in which to submerge the meat. Add the ribs to the brine, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least 6 and up to 24 hours.
Meanwhile, make the spice rub: In a spice grinder or small food processor, grind the fennel seeds and chile flakes to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl, stir in the brown sugar, garlic and onion powders, and oregano, and set aside.
Make the roasted garlic glaze: Preheat the oven to 300°F. To a small ovenproof pot or baking dish, add the olive oil and garlic, adding more oil as needed to fully submerge the cloves. Cover tightly with a lid or aluminum foil and bake until the garlic is golden and very tender when poked with a fork, about 1 hour.
Carefully remove the pot from the oven and set it aside to cool to room temperature. Transfer the garlic cloves to a cutting board and, using a chefs knife, smash and chop to a fine paste. Reserve both the garlic paste and the garlic-infused oil.
In a small pot over medium heat, stir together the sugar and red wine vinegar. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid has reduced in volume by half and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat, cool slightly, and stir in the roasted garlic paste. Set the glaze aside.
Cook the ribs: Turn the oven down to 275°F. Arrange a few long layers of plastic wrap over a large work surface. Transfer the ribs to the plastic wrap, discarding the brine. Sprinkle the spice rub all over the rack, turning a few times to completely coat. Wrap the plastic up and around the ribs tightly, then wrap tightly in aluminum foil.
Transfer the packet of ribs to a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until the meat is tender when poked with a knife, but not yet falling off the bone, about 2½ hours. Remove the tray from the oven and set aside without unwrapping until cool enough to handle, 15–20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat a grill, grill pan, or broiler to cook over (or under) medium heat.
Working over the baking sheet to catch any accumulated juices, remove and discard both the foil and the plastic wrap. Pat the cooked ribs dry with paper towels and transfer to a clean, dry cutting board.
Using a sharp chefs knife, cut straight down between each bone to divide the rack into individual ribs. Brush each rib lightly with the reserved garlic-infused oil. If finishing under the broiler, arrange the ribs in a single layer on a dry baking sheet.
A few minutes before you plan to serve the ribs, grill or boil them, turning occasionally, until lightly browned all over, about 10 minutes. Brush generously with the reserved glaze and continue cooking until the glaze is sticky and lightly caramelized, 5–7 minutes more. Transfer to a platter, top with fresh and pickled chiles, and serve the cherry pepper ribs hot, with coleslaw or shredded cabbage on the side, if desired.

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Bun Cha (Grilled Vietnamese Meatballs with Rice Vermicelli)

Kate Berry — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:48 +0000

Photography by David Malosh; Food Styling by Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

SAVEUR’s chief content officer Kate Berry was born in Southern Vietnam, though she is particularly fond of these Northern-style grilled meatballs, which she tasted for the first time in a restaurant here in the States. According to the classic bun cha recipe, the slightly flattened meatballs are cooked over a wood or charcoal fire, but she finds that a stovetop grill pan is a great substitute for achieving the dish’s requisite char and smoky flavor.

Bun cha is usually served with a light and brothy dipping sauce; Berry suggests swirling the grilled meatballs directly in the condiment—fortifying it with their flavorful juices—before pouring the liquid liberally over the noodles and topping with fresh herbs. A side of crunchy do chua—Vietnamese carrot-daikon pickle—lends the rich pork an extra layer of freshness and crunch; find our recipe here. If cooking the meatballs on a wide-set grill, thread the meatballs on a skewer to prevent them from falling through the grates.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Ingredients

For the meatballs:

¼ cup fish sauce, preferably Vietnamese-style
3 Tbsp. turbinado sugar
1 large shallot, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 lemongrass stalks, outer layers removed, coarsely chopped
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 lb. ground pork

For the dipping sauce:

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fish sauce, preferably Vietnamese-style
⅓ cup turbinado sugar
¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. coconut water
¼ cup fresh lime juice
4 garlic cloves, grated
1–2 red bird’s-eye chiles (optional)

For serving:

Leaves from 1 head soft lettuce, such as red or green leaf or Bibb
2 medium cucumbers, thinly sliced on the bias
Fresh herb sprigs, such as Thai basil, cilantro, mint, shiso, rau ram, or sawtooth
Rice vermicelli noodles, cooked according to package instructions and chilled

Instructions

Make the meatballs: In a medium bowl, whisk together the fish sauce and sugar until the sugar dissolves. To a small food processor, add the shallot, garlic, and lemongrass until finely chopped (or finely chop using a chef’s knife). Stir the chopped aromatics and black pepper into the sugar mixture, then add the pork, stirring with clean hands to combine. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce: In a medium bowl, stir together the fish sauce, sugar, coconut water, lime juice, garlic, chiles (if using), and ½ cup cool water until the sugar dissolves. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Preheat a grill over medium heat, or a well-seasoned grill-pan over medium-high heat. Place a clean, large platter by the grill or stove.
Divide the chilled meatball mixture into twenty 2-ounce portions (a scant ¼ cup per meatball). Gently roll each portion into a ball, then press gently between your palms to slightly flatten on 2 sides. (This will make the meatballs easier to grill; do not fully flatten into patties). Grill the meatballs, turning once, until deeply charred on both sides and cooked through, 5–10 minutes. Transfer the meatballs to the platter; serve the bun cha hot, with the reserved dipping sauce, lettuce leaves, cucumbers, and herbs on the side.

Do Chua (Vietnamese Carrot Daikon Pickle)

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MALOSH; FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

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Tom Roach’s Heavenly Angel Food Cake

Tom Roach — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:30:12 +0000

The late, great American cookbook author Marion Cunningham famously carried with her a photograph of a table loaded with angel food cakes, all slightly different: some tall, some short, some white and fluffy, some in a Bundt shape. The photo was taken at a meeting of the Baker’s Dozen, a group of pro bakers including Alice Medrich and Carol Field who met regularly to exchange problems and solutions. Each of the cakes was baked by the members from the same recipe. “If all our results were this different,” Cunningham sympathized, “think of the plight of the poor home cook.” This recipe in question is this one, from “cookie baker for the stars,” Tom Roach, adapted with a bit of Cunningham’s gentle advice.

This recipe originally ran alongside Christopher Hirsheimer’s 1999 article, Baking Lessons.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Artisan Series Angel Food Cake Pan here.

Yield: 8–10

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

1½ cup sifted cake flour
1½ cup superfine sugar
1½ cup egg whites (from 11–12 large eggs)
1½ tsp. cream of tartar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. fine sea salt

Instructions

Sift and measure flour. Add a third of the sugar and sift together three times. (M.C. prefers 1¼ cups granulated sugar to 1½ cups superfine sugar, which she feels makes the cake too sweet. She sifts the flour by itself and adds sugar directly to the egg whites.)
Place into a large mixing bowl the egg whites, 2 tablespoons cold water, cream of tartar, vanilla, and salt—yes, all at once! Whip until barely stiff enough to hold a peak when the beater is lifted, but not dry. Gradually add the remaining sugar, 2–3 tablespoons at a time, whipping gently after each of the first few additions, then folding rather than beating towards the end. (M.C. sprinkles the sugar into the whites in four parts as she beats, until the whites are shiny and hold soft peaks.)
Add the sifted flour and sugar, 3–4 tablespoons at a time, and fold gently until smooth after each addition. Pour the batter into an ungreased 10 tube pan and bake in a preheated 325°F oven about 1 hour. (M.C. sifts the flour into the egg whites as she’s folding it in.)
Invert the angel food cake and cool completely before removing from pan. (M.C.: Or invert the pan on a bottle until cake cools.)

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Strawberry Risotto

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:25 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This unusual, pastel-pink strawberry risotto recipe is a great way to use up those out-of-season (or past-their-prime) berries kicking around your fruit drawer. The dish was a popular menu item at Italian restaurants in the 80s—and we’re all for its comeback.

Featured in “Can This Berry Be Saved?” by Warren Schultz.

Yield: 4

Time: 35 minutes

3 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 cup strawberries, washed and hulled
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup arborio rice
¼ cup dry white wine
¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small pot, bring the stock to a boil, then add the berries and boil for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a food processor or blender and purée; set aside. Turn off the heat.
To a large pot set over medium-low heat, add the butter. When it’s melted, add the rice and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until absorbed, about 4 minutes. Add ½ cup of the reserved stock and cook until absorbed, then continue with the remaining stock. (The total cook time should be about 25 minutes.)
Remove from the heat and stir in the purée and Parmigiano, then season with salt and black pepper to taste and serve immediately.

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Strawberry-Lillet Crush

Michellina Jones — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:28 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Muddled strawberries, fresh mint, and Lillet star in this refreshing, lightly sweet cocktail recipe, which former digital producer Michellina Jones considers the perfect drink for a muggy late summer day. She prefers using a navy strength gin (which has a minimum of 57.1% ABV) with a balanced, restrained flavor profile that won’t overwhelm the other ingredients, while ensuring the boozy flavor doesn’t get lost. Lillet refers to Bordeaux wine that’s been infused with aromatics and spices; the Blanc variety of the aperitif offers citrusy, floral notes with a dry finish. Here, the quintessential summer beverage, with its delicate sweetness, plays well with the gin and berries. Make your own syrup at home with our simple syrup recipe.

Yield: 1

Time: 5 minutes

6 mint leaves
3 strawberries, hulled, plus more for garnish
½ oz. simple syrup
2 oz. any navy strength gin, such as Plymouth
1 oz. Lillet Blanc
Crushed ice, for serving

Instructions

In a cocktail shaker, lightly muddle the mint, strawberries, and simple syrup.
Fill a glass with crushed ice. To the shaker, add the gin, Lillet Blanc, and enough ice cubes to fill it about halfway. Shake well, strain into the glass, garnish with strawberries, and serve immediately.

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Two Pea Stir-Fry with Greens

Kat Craddock — Thu, 23 May 2019 01:32:00 +0000

KAT CRADDOCK

Snow peas, sugar snap peas, and pea shoots are quick-cooked with a Thai-inspired oyster-fish-soy sauce dressing, along with plenty of garlic and chiles, in this bold and punchy side dish from SAVEUR editor-in-chief Kat Craddock, which she adapted from a Pok Pok recipe by Andy Ricker. Shoots harvested later in the season are tougher in texture—adjust the cook time accordingly.

Yield: 4

Time: 10 minutes

1 Tbsp. canola oil
1 garlic clove, smashed
1½ cups snow peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
1½ cups snap peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
2 bird’s-eye chiles, thinly sliced
3 oz. pea shoots (tendrils, shoots, and leaves), cut into 2-in. lengths (2 cups, loosely packed)
2 tsp. oyster sauce
1½ tsp. fish sauce
1½ tsp. soy sauce
½ tsp. sugar

Instructions

To a wok set over high heat, add the oil and swirl to coat. When smoking, add the garlic and fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds, followed by the snow peas, snap peas, and chiles. Cook, stirring continuously, until the pods are bright green and beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the pea shoots and 1 tablespoon of water and cook until wilted, 30–45 seconds. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar, and 2 tablespoons water and cook, stirring continuously, until the peas and greens are tender and evenly coated with sauce, 1–2 minutes more.

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Aïoli Provençal

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:11 +0000

Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Olivia Mack McCool; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

This traditional aïoli recipe comes to us from the inn Relais Notre-Dame in Alpes de Haute Provence. The garlicky sauce perfectly illustrates Provence’s culinary touchstones: simple preparations and local ingredients. Throughout Southern France, the silky, mayo-like condiment is served alongside meats, seafood, and raw or roasted vegetables as the centerpiece of a “grand aïoli.”We find it just as delicious paired with crispy frites.

Yield: about 2 cups

Time: 13 minutes

6 cloves garlic, peeled
Coarse salt
2 large egg yolks
2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Instructions

To the bowl of a mortar, add the garlic and a generous pinch of salt. Use the pestle to pound the mixture into a smooth paste. Working with the pestle or a whisk, beat the egg yolks into garlic until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Begin adding the oil a few drops at a time, beating continuously, until the sauce begins to emulsify. (The flow of oil can be increased to a fine stream as the sauce comes together.) Once all the oil has been added, add the lemon juice a teaspoon at a time to thin, if desired. Season to taste with salt. Use immediately, or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

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16 Strawberry Recipes to Sweeten Your Spring and Summer

Benjamin Kemper — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:33:37 +0000

Photography by Christina Holmes

Good strawberries—you know, those crimson, thimble-size gems currently perfuming the air at farm stands—are as ephemeral as spring itself. They can turn to mush in hours, a problem we often solve by tossing them back like popcorn while mosying home from the market. Cooks with more restraint, however, should keep strawberries fresh by storing them in the fridge, spread in a single layer on a paper towel in an airtight container.

Strawberries make some of the world’s most heavenly sweets, from cool berry tarts to pretty pink cocktails and crowd-pleasing strawberry shortcakes. Rhubarb may be the strawberry’s most ubiquitous bedfellow, but the berry’s heady aromas play wonderfully with citrus, acid, booze, spices, and—yes—salt, as proven by dishes like strawberry-goat cheese hand pies and crackly strawberry focaccia. A dollop of dairy (mascarpone, yogurt, ice cream, what have you) turns them into something altogether ambrosial, as anyone who’s tucked into a bowl of fresh strawberries and cream can attest.

But we have a bone to pick with supermarket strawberries. While useful in a pinch for decorating desserts, they can be watery and tough. That’s because they’re a Chilean American hybrid bred for looks and durability as opposed to flavor. They pale in comparison to our favorite Tristars and Lilliputian fraises des bois, which you’re more likely to encounter at the farmers market—all the more reason to seek out (and, sigh, splurge on) the real deal during the berries’ fleeting season. With these recipes in your back pocket, you’ll be off to a running start.

Strawberry Bread

Swirled with jam and and divoted with whole cooked strawberries, this snacking cake is a brunch knockout. Get the recipe >

Grand Marnier Strawberry Sundaes

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling by Victoria Granof; Prop Styling by Dayna Seman

Strawberry milkshakes get the adult treatment in this boozy, orange-scented beverage that doubles as dessert. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Rhubarb Pâte de Fruit

Photography by Belle Morizio

These fragrant jelly candies call for a bounty of fresh fruit—which means they’re healthy, right? Right? Get the recipe >

Strawberry Shortcake for a Crowd

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling By Jessie YuChen; Prop Styling By Kim Gray

Baking a single oversize biscuit instead of laboring over individual ones makes for a marvelously over-the-top presentation of the classic American dessert. Because our favorite strawberry shortcake recipe hinges on peak-season berries, it’s best to hit up your local farm stand for Tristar and other heirloom strawberries (alternatively, fancy-schmancy Oishii berries are sweet all year round). Get the recipe >

Strawberry Rhubarb Hand Pies

Photography by SAVEUR Editors

It’s two sticky thumbs up to these flaky, fork-crimped beauties perfect for picnicking and potlucks. Get the recipe >

Almond Cheesecake with Macerated Strawberries and Mint

Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Rebecca Jurkevich; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Swirled with jam and and divoted with whole cooked strawberries, this snacking cake is a brunch knockout. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Focaccia with Maple-Balsamic Onions

Photography by Thomas Payne

This sweet-and-salty focaccia that comes together with minimal effort is a welcome springtime twist on the original. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Spritz

Hayden Stinebaugh

Thickened with coconut milk and pepped up with fresh lime juice, the strawberry spritz created at Detroit’s Candy Bar drinks like a tropical vacation. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Ice Cream

It turns out that the secret to great strawberry ice cream is—you guessed it—sweet, overripe farmers-market berries. Get the recipe >

Strawberry-Beet Sorbet

Photography by Ted + Chelsea Cavanaugh

Vibrant fuschia orbs of tart yet earthy sorbet are a refreshing finale to any summer cookout. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Rhubarb Cheesecake

Photography by Christina Holmes

Inspire oohs and aahs with this luxurious strawberry-topped cheesecake spread with smoky, tangy charred rhubarb jam. Get the recipe >

Goat Cheese and Strawberry Breakfast Tarts

This recipe goes out to all the readers who can’t think of a better bagel topping than cream cheese and jam. Get the recipe >

Pavlova

Photography by Dave Lieberman

A crackly crown of meringue brimming with colorful berries is the kind of fresh, light dessert we crave when temperatures soar. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Rhubarb Yogurt Pops

Cool off with these homemade pink popsicles that are a hit with kids and adults alike. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Jam

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Preserve the summery flavor of fresh berries with this simple preparation. Get the recipe >

Strawberries with Wine

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This bright, citrusy dessert from chef José Andrés makes the perfect nightcap to wind down an evening of grilling. Get the recipe >

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Introducing Your Favorite In-Home Pizzaiolo: You

Ellen Fort — Mon, 05 Jun 2023 16:01:45 +0000

Image Courtesy of Ooni

There’s nothing like a pizza hot from the oven—the cheese still bubbling atop a puffy, blistered crust. Until recently, that kind of pizza perfection was limited to restaurants with seasoned pizzaiolos and wood-burning ovens. My homemade pies were lackluster at best; conventional ovens, I learned, don’t get ripping-hot enough to achieve that crispy, chewy crust.

But a year ago, Ooni’s gas-fueled oven changed the game at my house—as it did for many cooks across the country. Suddenly I had the power to turn out beautiful pizzas on my back patio in record time. What was once a lost cause became an obsession as I perfected my dough’s hydration levels and fermentation time, and experimented with sauces and toppings.

There was only one hitch—subjecting myself to whatever extreme weather had landed on my doorstep didn’t always appeal. Enter the Ooni Volt 12, the first indoor pizza oven of its kind. It hit the market this spring and has quickly become my go-to rain-or-shine pizza partner.

At first glance, the Volt 12 resembles Ooni’s other products, with its black casing and gray accents. However, the Volt 12 has a triple-paned borosilicate glass door with a handle that remains cool to the touch—even when the inside of the oven is a roaring 850 degrees Fahrenheit. I found that the door (and the entire oven) is so well insulated that very little heat escapes at all, making it welcome in small kitchens prone to overheating.

The Volt 12 is also exceptionally precise. Whereas flames require close monitoring and are harder to control, the Volt 12’s electric heating coils are regulated via a temperature dial (we love a dial!). Additionally, there are adjustable heating elements both above and below the pizza stone. Whether I’m going full leopard on a Neapolitan pie or channeling my favorite New York pizzeria, the ability to turn things up or down mid-bake helps prevent soggy bottoms and charred tops.

Then there’s the stone. Forget preheating for an hour (while your house preheats, too): The Ooni Volt 12 reaches its maximum temperature within 20 minutes and quickly comes back up to temperature between pizzas. I also found the 13-inch stone to be quite roomy for my needs; a deep-dish pan fits easily inside. Its generous size offered more wiggle room when rotating the pizza as well, something that has to be performed with urgency and precision when cooking with an open flame. (Unfortunately, pizza-turning is a skill you’ll have to master on your own, regardless of how fantastic your pizza oven is.)

The built-in timer is also a welcome tool, particularly when I’m cooking on my second glass of wine, or when there’s commotion (cinders are not a crowd-pleasing topping at a pizza party, it turns out). Equally helpful is the oven light, which helps me watch the pizza’s progress, and the ability to instantly change the temperature or balance the heating elements.

Overall, the Volt 12 accomplishes everything it sets out to do, and more. Not only is it a perfect oven for indoor cooking—it is weather-resistant and portable (it even has handles), so it can come along on adventures—as long as there’s a plug. There’s also no chance of running out of propane or wood at an inopportune time, a particular type of agony that will stop pizza night in its tracks.

As I’ve realized over the last few months, a well-made pizza oven is an investment that pays off—in pizza, family fun, and happiness.

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