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Moussaka (Greek Eggplant Casserole)

Aglaia Kremezi — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:29:15 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

A good moussaka is “one of the most fabulous things you can eat,” according to Aglaia Kremezi, author of Mediterranean Hot and Spicy. Her recipe for the Greek eggplant casserole, inherited from her mother, is a labor of love requiring sautéing, frying, boiling, and baking—but it’s well worth the trouble. The components (meat sauce, béchamel, and fried eggplant and potatoes) can be prepared the day before assembling.

Yield: 8-10

Time: 4 hours 40 minutes

2 cups plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 bay leaves
2 cinnamon sticks
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 lb. ground beef
¼ cup tomato paste
1½ tsp. ground cinnamon, divided, plus more for dusting
½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg, divided
¼ tsp. ground cloves
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups whole milk
4 large eggs
3 large eggplants, sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
5 medium russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-in.-thick rounds
1 cup coarsely grated graviera cheese, or Gruyère
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To a large pot set over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of the oil, the bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, 5–7 minutes. Add the beef and cook until browned and all the liquid has evaporated, about 30 minutes.
Add the tomato paste, 1¼ teaspoons of the ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon of the nutmeg, and the cloves and cook until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, tomatoes, and 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until nearly all the liquid has evaporated, about 1½ hours. Remove from the heat, then discard the cinnamon sticks and bay leaves. Season generously with salt and black pepper and set aside.
Meanwhile, make the béchamel: In a medium bowl, beat the eggs. Melt the butter in a medium pot set over medium-high heat. Whisk in the flour and cook until light golden, about 2 minutes. Whisk in 1½ teaspoons of salt, the milk, and the remaining cinnamon and nutmeg. Cook, whisking frequently, until thick, about 10 minutes. Ladle about 1 cup of the béchamel into the egg, then whisk to combine. Pour the egg mixture back into the pot, then whisk until smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the remaining oil. Lightly dust the eggplant slices with cinnamon slices. When the oil is hot and shimmering, working in batches, fry the eggplant (turning once) until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then add the potatoes and cook until barely tender, 8–10 minutes. Drain and transfer to an ice bath. When cool, drain and set aside.
On the bottom of a 10-by-14-inch baking dish, spread 1 cup of the béchamel. Sprinkle with ⅓ cup of the graviera. Spread the potatoes evenly over the cheese, then cover evenly with the eggplant. Pour the meat sauce over the top, then spread with the remaining béchamel. Top with the remaining graviera. Bake until bubbling and golden brown, about 1 hour.

Around the World in 26 Eggplant Recipes

Photography by Matt Taylor-Gross

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Carbone’s Cherry Pepper Ribs

Mario Carbone — Sat, 22 Jul 2023 06:53:08 +0000

Photography by Anthony Mair; Courtesy of MGM Resorts International

At New York City’s Carbone—and its younger Las Vegas outpost in Aria Resort—Berkshire pork spare ribs from Heritage Foods are brushed with a sweet, garlic glaze, finished over a wood fire, then topped with a mixture of fresh and pickled chiles. “I love this dish because it’s completely non-traditional to the Italian-American menu,” says chef Mario Carbone. “It’s a curveball that we throw, but somehow, once it hits the table, it looks perfectly at home.”

Fresh cherry peppers come into season in late summer and often can be found at farmers markets and Italian grocery stores. (If you can’t track them down, though, thinly sliced green jalapeños will get the job done.) Pickled cherry peppers are available year-round in well-stocked supermarkets and online. The individual components of this recipe can be made a day or more ahead of time, and the final step is a quick and easy one, making Carbone’s cherry pepper ribs an impressive flex for outdoor entertaining. At his restaurants, the ribs are served over a bed of coleslaw, but any crunchy fresh salad would make a fine accompaniment. — Kat Craddock

Note: Slow cooking the meat in a layer of plastic wrap seals in its flavor and moisture, mimicking the effect of sous vide cooking. However, if you prefer not to cook in plastic, you may also omit this layer and bake only aluminum foil. We tested a plastic-free version and found the ribs still came out tender and juicy.

Yield: 4–6

Time: 12 hours

Ingredients

For the brined ribs:

1½ cup kosher salt
⅓ cup sugar
1 medium lemon, halved crosswise
1 whole garlic head, halved crosswise
2 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns
1¾ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
One 4-lb. pound rack spare ribs

For the spice rub:

2 Tbsp. whole fennel seed
1½ tsp. crushed red chile flake
⅓ cup light brown sugar
2 Tbsp. garlic powder
2 Tbsp. onion powder
1½ tsp. dried oregano

For the roasted garlic gaze:

1 cup olive oil, plus more
Garlic cloves from 1 large head, peeled
½ cup sugar
½ cup red wine vinegar

For serving:

½ cup fresh cherry peppers, stemmed and thinly sliced
½ cup sweet or hot pickled cherry peppers, stemmed, seeded, and quartered
Shredded cabbage or coleslaw (optional)

Instructions

To a large pot over high heat, add 2 quarts water and the salt and sugar. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Add 2 quarts cool water, the lemon and garlic halves, and the black peppercorns and chile flakes, then transfer the brine to a large enough container in which to submerge the meat. Add the ribs to the brine, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least 6 and up to 24 hours.
Meanwhile, make the spice rub: In a spice grinder or small food processor, grind the fennel seeds and chile flakes to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl, stir in the brown sugar, garlic and onion powders, and oregano, and set aside.
Make the roasted garlic glaze: Preheat the oven to 300°F. To a small ovenproof pot or baking dish, add the olive oil and garlic, adding more oil as needed to fully submerge the cloves. Cover tightly with a lid or aluminum foil and bake until the garlic is golden and very tender when poked with a fork, about 1 hour.
Carefully remove the pot from the oven and set it aside to cool to room temperature. Transfer the garlic cloves to a cutting board and, using a chefs knife, smash and chop to a fine paste. Reserve both the garlic paste and the garlic-infused oil.
In a small pot over medium heat, stir together the sugar and red wine vinegar. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid has reduced in volume by half and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat, cool slightly, and stir in the roasted garlic paste. Set the glaze aside.
Cook the ribs: Turn the oven down to 275°F. Arrange a few long layers of plastic wrap over a large work surface. Transfer the ribs to the plastic wrap, discarding the brine. Sprinkle the spice rub all over the rack, turning a few times to completely coat. Wrap the plastic up and around the ribs tightly, then wrap tightly in aluminum foil.
Transfer the packet of ribs to a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until the meat is tender when poked with a knife, but not yet falling off the bone, about 2½ hours. Remove the tray from the oven and set aside without unwrapping until cool enough to handle, 15–20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat a grill, grill pan, or broiler to cook over (or under) medium heat.
Working over the baking sheet to catch any accumulated juices, remove and discard both the foil and the plastic wrap. Pat the cooked ribs dry with paper towels and transfer to a clean, dry cutting board.
Using a sharp chefs knife, cut straight down between each bone to divide the rack into individual ribs. Brush each rib lightly with the reserved garlic-infused oil. If finishing under the broiler, arrange the ribs in a single layer on a dry baking sheet.
A few minutes before you plan to serve the ribs, grill or boil them, turning occasionally, until lightly browned all over, about 10 minutes. Brush generously with the reserved glaze and continue cooking until the glaze is sticky and lightly caramelized, 5–7 minutes more. Transfer to a platter, top with fresh and pickled chiles, and serve the cherry pepper ribs hot, with coleslaw or shredded cabbage on the side, if desired.

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Bamonte’s Pork Chops with Pickled Peppers

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:08 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

These juicy pork chops with pickled peppers have been a menu staple at Bamonte’s restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, since the 1950s. Both sweet and hot pickled cherry peppers are available at Italian grocery stores and online; if you’re sensitive to spicy foods, use either all sweet peppers or a mix of the two.

This recipe first appeared in our January/February 2013 issue along with Greg Ferro‘s article “Bamonte’s”.

Yield: 2–4

Time: 26 minutes

Two 1-in.-thick bone-in pork chops
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
12 pickled cherry peppers, halved
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup chicken stock

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 425° F. Season the chops generously with salt and black pepper.
To a large skillet over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the chops and cook, flipping once, until evenly browned, 5–8 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until the chops are just cooked through (145°F on an instant read thermometer), 18–20 minutes. Transfer chops to a plate and set aside (the meat will continue cooking as it rests).
Return the skillet to the stovetop over medium heat, add the remaining oil, garlic, and peppers, and cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is golden, 3–4 minutes. Turn the heat up to high, stir in the wine and stock, and continue cooking until the liquid has reduced in volume by half, 3–4 minutes. Spoon the sauce and peppers over the pork chops and serve hot.

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Cake d’Alsace (Bacon, Gruyère, and Caramelized Onion Loaf)

Aleksandra Crapanzano — Fri, 21 Jul 2023 14:59:34 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

“Cake salé” is a catch-all term for the humble savory loaves popular among French home cooks. This Alsace-inspired variation, studded with bacon, Gruyère, and caramelized onion, tastes great straight from the oven, but it’s even better reheated (cooling it completely tenderizes the crumb). Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.

Featured in “Is This Humble Dish France’s Best-Kept Culinary Secret?” by Emily Monaco.

Yield: Makes 1 loaf

Time: 1 hour 35 minutes

5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus more as needed
8 oz. bacon, cut crosswise into ¼-in. lardons
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 cup full-fat (whole) buttermilk
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
2 large eggs, preferably at room temperature
2½ cups all-purpose flour (10½ oz.)
1½ tsp. baking powder
¾ tsp. fine salt
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
8 oz. grated Comté, Gruyère, or aged cheddar (2 cups)
3 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley leaves

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Butter and flour a metal 9-by-5-inch loaf pan, tapping out any excess flour.
In a large skillet set over low heat, cook the lardons until golden brown and their fat has rendered, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a small bowl.
To the pan with the rendered fat, add the onion and turn the heat to medium. (If the pan looks dry, add a tablespoon of butter.) Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, oil, and eggs, then whisk in the melted butter.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda, and black pepper. Stir in the cheese, parsley, and reserved bacon. Add the buttermilk mixture, then use a silicone spatula to fold together the wet and dry ingredients until no streaks of flour remain.
Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean or with a few crumbs attached, 45–50 minutes. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before unmolding, then serve warm or at room temperature.

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Apricot Soufflé

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:35:40 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This exceptional apricot soufflé recipe comes to us from Café Jacqueline in San Francisco, a cozy bistro that serves homestyle French fare in a chandeliered dining room. Of proprietor Jacqueline Margulis’s many delectable soufflés, this is our favorite, especially come late spring and summer, when fresh apricots are in season. The soufflé will begin to fall the moment it’s pulled from the oven, but any change in appearance won’t affect the taste.

Yield: 4

Time: 45 minutes

Unsalted butter, for greasing
¾ cup heavy cream
¼ cup sugar, plus more for dusting
2¼ tsp. all-purpose flour
5 large fresh apricots, 4 coarsely chopped, 1 thinly sliced
1 tsp. kirsch
4 large room-temperature eggs, separated
⅛ tsp. cream of tartar
Confectioners sugar, for dusting

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Position a rack low enough in the oven to allow the soufflé room to rise as much as 2 inches above the rim. Butter a 6½-inch-diameter soufflé dish, then dust with sugar, tapping out any excess.
To a medium pot over medium heat, add the cream, sugar, flour, and chopped apricots. Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking, until thick, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the kirsch. One at a time, whisk in the egg yolks. Spread ¼ cup of the apricot mixture evenly on the bottom of the soufflé dish; set aside the rest.
Using a stand or handheld mixer, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until stiff peaks form. Using a silicone spatula, gently fold about one third of the egg whites into the remaining apricot mixture. Repeat, folding in the remaining whites in two batches. (Do not over-mix.) Scrape into the soufflé dish.
Bake until puffed and browned (but still slightly jiggly), 12–15 minutes. Dust generously with confectioners sugar and fan the sliced apricot on top. Serve immediately.

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Eggplant Caponata

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:35:59 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This silky, tangy eggplant dish is an iconic Sicilian specialty, typically served as an appetizer or side dish. Beautifully absorbent, eggplant does an excellent job of soaking up the sweetness of the caramelized onions and raisins and the briny pungence of the capers and olives. Eleonora Consoli, a cooking teacher in Sicily, includes the unexpected addition of chocolate in her signature version of the dish. This eggplant caponata recipe first appeared in our March 2011 issue with the story, “Home Cooking in Sicily,” by Nancy Harmon Jenkins.

Yield: 4

Time: 50 minutes

3 cups olive oil
2 lb. eggplant, cut into 1-in. cubes
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. tomato paste, thinned with ¼ cup water
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
6 oz. green olives, pitted and finely chopped
½ cup golden raisins
½ cup white wine vinegar
¼ cup salt-packed capers, rinsed and drained
3 Tbsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. finely grated unsweetened chocolate
½ cup finely shredded basil
2 Tbsp. pine nuts

Instructions

To a large skillet set over medium-high heat, add the oil. Working in batches, add the eggplant and fry, tossing occasionally, until browned, 3–4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggplant to a large bowl and set aside.
Pour off all but ¼ cup of the oil (you can reserve it for another use) and return the skillet to medium-high heat. Add the onion and celery, season lightly with salt and black pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Turn the heat down to medium, add the tomato paste, and cook, stirring continuously, until the mixture is a deep rust-brown color and the liquid has almost completely evaporated, 1–2 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes, bring to a simmer, and continue cooking until slightly reduced and just beginning to thicken, about 10 minutes. Stir in the olives, raisins, vinegar, capers, sugar, and chocolate; cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened to the consistency of a loose paste, about 15 minutes.
Remove from the heat then pour the sauce over the eggplant. Add the basil and pine nuts, and stir well. Season to taste with more salt and black pepper, and set the caponata aside to cool to room temperature before serving.

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Minestra di Verdure

SAVEUR Editors — Wed, 12 Jul 2023 17:43:13 +0000

Photography by Julia Gartland; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This Grandmas Project recipe for minestra di verdure—a chunky Mediterranean vegetable soup—is a great way to cook through a bumper crop of late-summer veggies, which you can vary depending on what’s available (or on sale). We love serving this stew the day after it’s made to let the flavors marry. Minestra makes an even more complete, satisfying meal when served with crusty baguette and a runny fried egg on top.

Featured in “This Italian Nonna’s Vegetable Soup Is a Portal to Her Past,” by Rooksana Hossenally.

Yield: 4

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

One 15-oz. can cannellini beans, drained
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving (optional)
8 oz. celery root, peeled and cut into ½-in. pieces (about 2 cups)
8 oz. red kuri squash, peeled and cut into ½-in. pieces (about 1⅔ cups)
4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ½-in. pieces
3 medium zucchini, cut into ½-in. pieces
2 medium leeks, tops and bottoms discarded, cleaned and coarsely chopped
2 medium turnips, cut into ½-in. pieces
¼ large fennel bulb (3 oz.), coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small bowl, using a potato masher or handheld blender, coarsely purée ½ cup of the beans with ½ cup of water and set aside.
To a large pot set over medium heat, add the oil, celery root, squash, carrots, zucchini, leeks, turnips, and fennel and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened slightly and are beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.
Stir in the puréed and whole beans, the tomato paste, and 4 cups of water and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Turn the heat to low and continue cooking, adding hot water as needed to maintain a thick, soupy texture, until the vegetables are fully soft, about 45 minutes. Divide evenly among four bowls and drizzle with olive oil if desired.

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Lidnivikis

Jenn Louis — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:44:51 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

These old school Polish pancakes are lighter, fluffier, and cheesier than the batter-based standard. The batter—really more of a dough made from cottage cheese and egg barely bound together with flour—is sliced into rounds and baked, rather than cooked in a pan. Be careful not to overwork it when adding flour; the pancakes should be fall-apart tender.

Featured in: “Old School Pancakes So Good They Don’t Need a Pan.”

Yield: 5–7

Time: 45 minutes

2 cups cottage cheese (about 1 lb.)
3 large eggs
1½ cups (7½ oz.) all-purpose flour, divided
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Fresh dill and sour cream, for serving

Instructions

Heat the oven to 350°F; position two of the racks in the top and bottom third of the oven. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
In a large bowl, stir together the cottage cheese and eggs. Stir in 1 cup of the flour, the baking powder, and salt. Lay a second large rectangle of parchment paper on a clean work surface and sprinkle the remaining ½ cup flour lengthwise down the center. Pour the batter over the flour in an approximately 12- by 2½-inch log, then lift the long sides of the parchment to roll the log back and forth over the parchment until it’s evenly coated in flour (the dough will be very wet and soft). Using a knife, cut the log crosswise into ten 1½-inch thick rounds; using the side of your knife for help, quickly transfer the rounds to the lined baking sheets cut-side-up and spaced at least 2 inches apart.
Bake, rotating the baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through cooking, until lightly browned on the bottom and set in the middle, about 20 minutes.
Using a thin, offset spatula, transfer the pancakes to a plate or serving platter. Pinch off small knobs of butter with your fingers and place over each pancake. Sprinkle with dill and serve hot with sour cream on the side.

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Strawberry Risotto

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:25 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This unusual, pastel-pink strawberry risotto recipe is a great way to use up those out-of-season (or past-their-prime) berries kicking around your fruit drawer. The dish was a popular menu item at Italian restaurants in the 80s—and we’re all for its comeback.

Featured in “Can This Berry Be Saved?” by Warren Schultz.

Yield: 4

Time: 35 minutes

3 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 cup strawberries, washed and hulled
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup arborio rice
¼ cup dry white wine
¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small pot, bring the stock to a boil, then add the berries and boil for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a food processor or blender and purée; set aside. Turn off the heat.
To a large pot set over medium-low heat, add the butter. When it’s melted, add the rice and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until absorbed, about 4 minutes. Add ½ cup of the reserved stock and cook until absorbed, then continue with the remaining stock. (The total cook time should be about 25 minutes.)
Remove from the heat and stir in the purée and Parmigiano, then season with salt and black pepper to taste and serve immediately.

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Our Favorite French Appetizers and Hors d’Oeuvres for Bastille Day and Beyond

SAVEUR Editors — Fri, 08 Feb 2019 18:01:49 +0000

Photography by Justin Walker

Bastille Day puts us in the mood for dainty French hors d’oeuvres and classic bistro nibbles like warm gougères and flaky pâté en croûte. With these tried-and-true French appetizer recipes, culled from skilled home cooks and iconic old-school restaurants, you’ll be eating like a bon vivant in no time.

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