Techniques | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/category/techniques/ Eat the world. Sat, 12 Aug 2023 00:45:00 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.1 https://www.saveur.com/uploads/2021/06/22/cropped-Saveur_FAV_CRM-1.png?auto=webp&width=32&height=32 Techniques | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/category/techniques/ 32 32 Braised Rabbit with Pan-Fried Radishes and Creamy Polenta https://www.saveur.com/recipes/tenmile-braised-rabbit-recipe/ Sat, 12 Aug 2023 00:45:00 +0000 /?p=160843
Braised Rabbit Tenmile
Photography by Daniel Seung Lee; Art Direction by Kate Berry

This gorgeous meal-in-one recipe is perfect for casual entertaining.

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Braised Rabbit Tenmile
Photography by Daniel Seung Lee; Art Direction by Kate Berry

Chef Eliza Glaister grew up in New York’s Hudson Valley, where her cooking was influenced by neighboring farmers and wild game purveyors like Quattro’s Farm. This braised rabbit recipe, served over creamy polenta and topped with pan-fried radishes and leek oil, is a summer favorite. “When preparing game with little to no fat, especially rabbit, braising it is a wonderful method,” she says. “Cooking seasonally means working with ingredients that are all growing together at the same time and place. They end up just working well together. The radish and dandelion greens add a big punch of peppery bitterness to this succulent braise.”

 Featured inOur New Favorite Single Malt Whisky Comes From … New York?by Shane Mitchell.

Yield: 4–6
Time: 2 hours

Ingredients

For the rabbit:

  • 1 medium leek, washed
  • 1 whole 2½–3 lb. rabbit
  • 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 cups chicken stock
  • 2 cups dry white wine
  • 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano leaves
  • 6 fresh bay leaves, or 12 dried
  • 6 juniper berries
  • 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

For the vegetables:

  • 1 Tbsp. olive oil
  • 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
  • 1 bunch red radishes (8–12 oz.), greens left attached, scrubbed and halved lengthwise
  • 12 large dandelion leaves
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • Kosher salt

For the grits:

  • 2 cups whole milk, divided
  • ½ cup fine yellow grits or polenta
  • 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
  • Kosher salt, to taste

Instructions

  1. Make the rabbit: Discard any dry or discolored green parts of the leek, then coarsely chop the remaining greens and reserve. Slice the white end into 1-inch-thick rounds and set aside. To a large Dutch oven, add the rabbit and 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat to medium and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Add the chicken stock, white wine, oregano, leek rounds, bay leaves, and juniper berries. When the liquid begins to boil, cover and turn the heat to medium-low. Simmer, rotating the rabbit halfway through cooking, until the rabbit is tender, about 1½  hours. Remove from the heat.
  2. Meanwhile, in a food processor, purée the leek greens and remaining oil, then strain into a bowl and season with salt to taste. (Refrigerated, the sauce will keep for one month.)
  3. Using tongs, transfer the rabbit to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, pick the meat from the bones (discard the bones, or reserve them to make a stock) and return it to the pot. Stir in the mustard and salt and black pepper to taste, then turn the heat to low and continue to cook, uncovered, until thickened slightly, 10–15 minutes.
  4. Make the vegetables: To a skillet set over medium-low heat, add the oil, butter, radishes, dandelion leaves, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the radishes are fork tender, 6–10 minutes. Season with salt and set aside.
  5. Make the grits: In a medium pot, bring 1 cup of the milk and 1 cup of water to a boil. Season with salt, then turn the heat to low and add the grits. Cook, whisking continuously, until thickened, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the butter and remaining milk and season with salt to taste.
  6. To serve, scrape the grits onto a platter. Using a slotted spoon, top evenly with the braised rabbit, then spoon with the cooking liquid. Top with the vegetables, then drizzle with the leek oil and serve.

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Carbone’s Cherry Pepper Ribs https://www.saveur.com/recipes/carbone-cherry-pepper-ribs/ Sat, 22 Jul 2023 06:53:08 +0000 /?p=160193
Carbone’s Cherry Pepper Ribs
Photography by Anthony Mair; Courtesy of MGM Resorts International

A mix of fresh and pickled chiles enhance Mario Carbone’s Italian American-inspired riff on a BBQ classic.

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Carbone’s Cherry Pepper Ribs
Photography by Anthony Mair; Courtesy of MGM Resorts International

At New York City’s Carbone—and its younger Las Vegas outpost in Aria Resort—Berkshire pork spare ribs from Heritage Foods are brushed with a sweet, garlic glaze, finished over a wood fire, then topped with a mixture of fresh and pickled chiles. “I love this dish because it’s completely non-traditional to the Italian-American menu,” says chef Mario Carbone. “It’s a curveball that we throw, but somehow, once it hits the table, it looks perfectly at home.” 

Fresh cherry peppers come into season in late summer and often can be found at farmers markets and Italian grocery stores. (If you can’t track them down, though, thinly sliced green jalapeños will get the job done.) Pickled cherry peppers are available year-round in well-stocked supermarkets and online. The individual components of this recipe can be made a day or more ahead of time, and the final step is a quick and easy one, making Carbone’s cherry pepper ribs an impressive flex for outdoor entertaining. At his restaurants, the ribs are served over a bed of coleslaw, but any crunchy fresh salad would make a fine accompaniment. Kat Craddock

Note: Slow cooking the meat in a layer of plastic wrap seals in its flavor and moisture, mimicking the effect of sous vide cooking. However, if you prefer not to cook in plastic, you may also omit this layer and bake only aluminum foil. We tested a plastic-free version and found the ribs still came out tender and juicy. 

Yield: 4–6
Time: 12 hours

Ingredients

For the brined ribs:

  • 1½ cup kosher salt
  • ⅓ cup sugar
  • 1 medium lemon, halved crosswise
  • 1 whole garlic head, halved crosswise
  • 2 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns
  • 1¾ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
  • One 4-lb. pound rack spare ribs

For the spice rub:

  • 2 Tbsp. whole fennel seed
  • 1½ tsp. crushed red chile flake
  • ⅓ cup light brown sugar
  • 2 Tbsp. garlic powder
  • 2 Tbsp. onion powder
  • 1½ tsp. dried oregano

For the roasted garlic gaze:

  • 1 cup olive oil, plus more
  • Garlic cloves from 1 large head, peeled
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ½ cup red wine vinegar

For serving:

  • ½ cup fresh cherry peppers, stemmed and thinly sliced
  • ½ cup sweet or hot pickled cherry peppers, stemmed, seeded, and quartered
  • Shredded cabbage or coleslaw (optional)

Instructions

  1. To a large pot over high heat, add 2 quarts water and the salt and sugar. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Add 2 quarts cool water, the lemon and garlic halves, and the black peppercorns and chile flakes, then transfer the brine to a large enough container in which to submerge the meat. Add the ribs to the brine, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least 6 and up to 24 hours.
  2. Meanwhile, make the spice rub: In a spice grinder or small food processor, grind the fennel seeds and chile flakes to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl, stir in the brown sugar, garlic and onion powders, and oregano, and set aside.
  3. Make the roasted garlic glaze: Preheat the oven to 300°F. To a small ovenproof pot or baking dish, add the olive oil and garlic, adding more oil as needed to fully submerge the cloves. Cover tightly with a lid or aluminum foil and bake until the garlic is golden and very tender when poked with a fork, about 1 hour.
  4. Carefully remove the pot from the oven and set it aside to cool to room temperature. Transfer the garlic cloves to a cutting board and, using a chefs knife, smash and chop to a fine paste. Reserve both the garlic paste and the garlic-infused oil.
  5. In a small pot over medium heat, stir together the sugar and red wine vinegar. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid has reduced in volume by half and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat, cool slightly, and stir in the roasted garlic paste. Set the glaze aside.
  6. Cook the ribs: Turn the oven down to 275°F. Arrange a few long layers of plastic wrap over a large work surface. Transfer the ribs to the plastic wrap, discarding the brine. Sprinkle the spice rub all over the rack, turning a few times to completely coat. Wrap the plastic up and around the ribs tightly, then wrap tightly in aluminum foil.
  7. Transfer the packet of ribs to a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until the meat is tender when poked with a knife, but not yet falling off the bone, about 2½ hours. Remove the tray from the oven and set aside without unwrapping until cool enough to handle, 15–20 minutes.
  8. Meanwhile, preheat a grill, grill pan, or broiler to cook over (or under) medium heat.
  9. Working over the baking sheet to catch any accumulated juices, remove and discard both the foil and the plastic wrap. Pat the cooked ribs dry with paper towels and transfer to a clean, dry cutting board.
  10. Using a sharp chefs knife, cut straight down between each bone to divide the rack into individual ribs. Brush each rib lightly with the reserved garlic-infused oil. If finishing under the broiler, arrange the ribs in a single layer on a dry baking sheet.
  11. A few minutes before you plan to serve the ribs, grill or boil them, turning occasionally, until lightly browned all over, about 10 minutes. Brush generously with the reserved glaze and continue cooking until the glaze is sticky and lightly caramelized, 5–7 minutes more. Transfer to a platter, top with fresh and pickled chiles, and serve the cherry pepper ribs hot, with coleslaw or shredded cabbage on the side, if desired.

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Bun Cha (Grilled Vietnamese Meatballs with Rice Vermicelli) https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/bun-cha-vietnamese-pork-meatball-noodle-salad/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:20:48 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-bun-cha-vietnamese-pork-meatball-noodle-salad/
Bun Cha (Grilled Vietnamese Meatballs with Rice Vermicelli)
Photography by David Malosh; Food Styling by Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Northern Vietnam’s beloved pork and noodle dish makes for a deeply flavorful meal, whether cooked traditionally over fire or in a grill pan.

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Bun Cha (Grilled Vietnamese Meatballs with Rice Vermicelli)
Photography by David Malosh; Food Styling by Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

SAVEUR’s chief content officer Kate Berry was born in Southern Vietnam, though she is particularly fond of these Northern-style grilled meatballs, which she tasted for the first time in a restaurant here in the States. According to the classic bun cha recipe, the slightly flattened meatballs are cooked over a wood or charcoal fire, but she finds that a stovetop grill pan is a great substitute for achieving the dish’s requisite char and smoky flavor. 

Bun cha is usually served with a light and brothy dipping sauce; Berry suggests swirling the grilled meatballs directly in the condiment—fortifying it with their flavorful juices—before pouring the liquid liberally over the noodles and topping with fresh herbs. A side of crunchy do chua—Vietnamese carrot-daikon pickle—lends the rich pork an extra layer of freshness and crunch; find our recipe here. If cooking the meatballs on a wide-set grill, thread the meatballs on a skewer to prevent them from falling through the grates.

Yield: 4–6
Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

Ingredients

For the meatballs:

  • ¼ cup fish sauce, preferably Vietnamese-style
  • 3 Tbsp. turbinado sugar
  • 1 large shallot, coarsely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, finely grated
  • 3 lemongrass stalks, outer layers removed, coarsely chopped
  • 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 lb. ground pork

For the dipping sauce:

  • ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. fish sauce, preferably Vietnamese-style
  • ⅓ cup turbinado sugar
  • ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. coconut water
  • ¼ cup fresh lime juice
  • 4 garlic cloves, grated
  • 1–2 red bird’s-eye chiles (optional)

For serving:

  • Leaves from 1 head soft lettuce, such as red or green leaf or Bibb
  • 2 medium cucumbers, thinly sliced on the bias
  • Fresh herb sprigs, such as Thai basil, cilantro, mint, shiso, rau ram, or sawtooth
  • Rice vermicelli noodles, cooked according to package instructions and chilled

Instructions

  1. Make the meatballs: In a medium bowl, whisk together the fish sauce and sugar until the sugar dissolves. To a small food processor, add the shallot, garlic, and lemongrass until finely chopped (or finely chop using a chef’s knife). Stir the chopped aromatics and black pepper into the sugar mixture, then add the pork, stirring with clean hands to combine. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
  2. Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce: In a medium bowl, stir together the fish sauce, sugar, coconut water, lime juice, garlic, chiles (if using), and ½ cup cool water until the sugar dissolves. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.
  3. Preheat a grill over medium heat, or a well-seasoned grill-pan over medium-high heat. Place a clean, large platter by the grill or stove.
  4. Divide the chilled meatball mixture into twenty 2-ounce portions (a scant ¼ cup per meatball). Gently roll each portion into a ball, then press gently between your palms to slightly flatten on 2 sides. (This will make the meatballs easier to grill; do not fully flatten into patties). Grill the meatballs, turning once, until deeply charred on both sides and cooked through, 5–10 minutes. Transfer the meatballs to the platter; serve the bun cha hot, with the reserved dipping sauce, lettuce leaves, cucumbers, and herbs on the side.

Do Chua (Vietnamese Carrot Daikon Pickle)

Vietnamese Carrot Daikon Pickle
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID MALOSH; FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES; PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO

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Tom Roach’s Heavenly Angel Food Cake https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/classic-angel-food-cake/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:30:12 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-classic-angel-food-cake/
Angel Food Cake

Named for its ethereal texture and pale crumb, this simple cake is the ideal cushion for juicy summer fruit.

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Angel Food Cake

The late, great American cookbook author Marion Cunningham famously carried with her a photograph of a table loaded with angel food cakes, all slightly different: some tall, some short, some white and fluffy, some in a Bundt shape. The photo was taken at a meeting of the Baker’s Dozen, a group of pro bakers including Alice Medrich and Carol Field who met regularly to exchange problems and solutions. Each of the cakes was baked by the members from the same recipe. “If all our results were this different,” Cunningham sympathized, “think of the plight of the poor home cook.” This recipe in question is this one, from “cookie baker for the stars,” Tom Roach, adapted with a bit of Cunningham’s gentle advice.

This recipe originally ran alongside Christopher Hirsheimer’s 1999 article, Baking Lessons.

Order the SAVEUR Selects Artisan Series Angel Food Cake Pan here.

Yield: 8–10
Time: 1 hour 20 minutes
  • 1½ cup sifted cake flour
  • 1½ cup superfine sugar
  • 1½ cup egg whites (from 11–12 large eggs)
  • 1½ tsp. cream of tartar
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  • ½ tsp. fine sea salt

Instructions

  1. Sift and measure flour. Add a third of the sugar and sift together three times. (M.C. prefers 1¼ cups granulated sugar to 1½ cups superfine sugar, which she feels makes the cake too sweet. She sifts the flour by itself and adds sugar directly to the egg whites.)
  2. Place into a large mixing bowl the egg whites, 2 tablespoons cold water, cream of tartar, vanilla, and salt—yes, all at once! Whip until barely stiff enough to hold a peak when the beater is lifted, but not dry. Gradually add the remaining sugar, 2–3 tablespoons at a time, whipping gently after each of the first few additions, then folding rather than beating towards the end. (M.C. sprinkles the sugar into the whites in four parts as she beats, until the whites are shiny and hold soft peaks.)
  3. Add the sifted flour and sugar, 3–4 tablespoons at a time, and fold gently until smooth after each addition. Pour the batter into an ungreased 10 tube pan and bake in a preheated 325°F oven about 1 hour. (M.C. sifts the flour into the egg whites as she’s folding it in.)
  4. Invert the angel food cake and cool completely before removing from pan. (M.C.: Or invert the pan on a bottle until cake cools.)

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Strawberry Risotto https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/strawberry-risotto/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:25 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-strawberry-risotto/
Strawberry Risotto
Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Berries make an unexpectedly fragrant, delicate addition to the creamy Italian rice dish.

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Strawberry Risotto
Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This unusual, pastel-pink strawberry risotto recipe is a great way to use up those out-of-season (or past-their-prime) berries kicking around your fruit drawer. The dish was a popular menu item at Italian restaurants in the 80s—and we’re all for its comeback.

Featured in “Can This Berry Be Saved?” by Warren Schultz. 

Yield: 4
Time: 35 minutes
  • 3 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
  • 1 cup strawberries, washed and hulled
  • 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
  • 1 cup arborio rice
  • ¼ cup dry white wine
  • ¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

  1. In a small pot, bring the stock to a boil, then add the berries and boil for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a food processor or blender and purée; set aside. Turn off the heat.
  2. To a large pot set over medium-low heat, add the butter. When it’s melted, add the rice and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until absorbed, about 4 minutes. Add ½ cup of the reserved stock and cook until absorbed, then continue with the remaining stock. (The total cook time should be about 25 minutes.)
  3. Remove from the heat and stir in the purée and Parmigiano, then season with salt and black pepper to taste and serve immediately.

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Strawberry-Lillet Crush https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/strawberry-lillet-crush/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:28 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-strawberry-lillet-crush/
Strawberry-Lillet Crush
Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This refreshing gin cocktail with muddled berries and mint is the ultimate summertime sip.

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Strawberry-Lillet Crush
Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Muddled strawberries, fresh mint, and Lillet star in this refreshing, lightly sweet cocktail recipe, which former digital producer Michellina Jones considers the perfect drink for a muggy late summer day. She prefers using a navy strength gin (which has a minimum of 57.1% ABV) with a balanced, restrained flavor profile that won’t overwhelm the other ingredients, while ensuring the boozy flavor doesn’t get lost. Lillet refers to Bordeaux wine that’s been infused with aromatics and spices; the Blanc variety of the aperitif offers citrusy, floral notes with a dry finish. Here, the quintessential summer beverage, with its delicate sweetness, plays well with the gin and berries. Make your own syrup at home with our simple syrup recipe

Yield: 1
Time: 5 minutes
  • 6 mint leaves
  • 3 strawberries, hulled, plus more for garnish
  • ½ oz. simple syrup
  • 2 oz. any navy strength gin, such as Plymouth
  • 1 oz. Lillet Blanc
  • Crushed ice, for serving

Instructions

  1. In a cocktail shaker, lightly muddle the mint, strawberries, and simple syrup.
  2. Fill a glass with crushed ice. To the shaker, add the gin, Lillet Blanc, and enough ice cubes to fill it about halfway. Shake well, strain into the glass, garnish with strawberries, and serve immediately.

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Two Pea Stir-Fry with Greens https://www.saveur.com/two-pea-stir-fry-with-greens-recipe/ Thu, 23 May 2019 01:32:00 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/two-pea-stir-fry-with-greens-recipe/
Stir-fried peas and pea shoots
KAT CRADDOCK

Quick cook your tender shoots in this Thai-inspired side dish.

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Stir-fried peas and pea shoots
KAT CRADDOCK

Snow peas, sugar snap peas, and pea shoots are quick-cooked with a Thai-inspired oyster-fish-soy sauce dressing, along with plenty of garlic and chiles, in this bold and punchy side dish from SAVEUR editor-in-chief Kat Craddock, which she adapted from a Pok Pok recipe by Andy Ricker. Shoots harvested later in the season are tougher in texture—adjust the cook time accordingly.

Yield: 4
Time: 10 minutes
  • 1 Tbsp. canola oil
  • 1 garlic clove, smashed
  • 1½ cups snow peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
  • 1½ cups snap peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
  • 2 bird’s-eye chiles, thinly sliced
  • 3 oz. pea shoots (tendrils, shoots, and leaves), cut into 2-in. lengths (2 cups, loosely packed)
  • 2 tsp. oyster sauce
  • 1½ tsp. fish sauce
  • 1½ tsp. soy sauce
  • ½ tsp. sugar

Instructions

  1. To a wok set over high heat, add the oil and swirl to coat. When smoking, add the garlic and fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds, followed by the snow peas, snap peas, and chiles. Cook, stirring continuously, until the pods are bright green and beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the pea shoots and 1 tablespoon of water and cook until wilted, 30–45 seconds. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar, and 2 tablespoons water and cook, stirring continuously, until the peas and greens are tender and evenly coated with sauce, 1–2 minutes more.

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Your Backyard Grill Can Cook a Lot More Than You Think https://www.saveur.com/culture/versatile-grilling-tips/ Mon, 26 Jun 2023 14:55:19 +0000 /?p=158951
How to Make the Most of Your Grill, from Breakfast to Dessert
Courtesy of Alisal Ranch

It's not just for steak dinners. With these simple tips, you can easily infuse smoky flavor into breakfast, dessert, and everything in between.

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How to Make the Most of Your Grill, from Breakfast to Dessert
Courtesy of Alisal Ranch

Growing up, I always considered backyard grilling a special-occasion activity—reserved for warm-weather long weekends like Memorial Day or the Fourth of July. My parents would invite friends around and dust off our Weber; then we’d marinate drumsticks, ribs, and vegetable skewers and prepare appetizers and drinks before spending the day shepherding platters from the indoor kitchen to the grill to the backyard table. I always loved our cookout days, even though there was a lot of going back and forth between the indoors and outdoors, and not a lot of sitting down to enjoy the summer air.

Alisal Ranch’s “BBQ Bootcamp” take place in the Santa Ynez Valley. Photography by Teal Thompson (L) and Sarah Range (R)

Recently, I took a road trip from my parents’ house in Northern California down to the Santa Ynez Valley, home to the 10,000-acre Alisal Ranch. In addition to raising horses and maintaining its lakes and golf courses, the ranch hosts “BBQ Bootcamp” events a few times a year, when pitmasters from around the country convene to demonstrate tips and best practices for amateur grillers. As chefs walked us through easy techniques for cooking all kinds of foods, from pizza to puddings, I began to realize that a grill is a far more versatile and forgiving tool than most of us might think. Perhaps using one doesn’t have to be a labor-intensive, all-day affair either, and, with the optimal tools and ingredients, maybe it doesn’t have to be relegated to holiday weekends, or even to dinnertime. “Look at your grill as an outdoor range,” Valerie Gordon, the chef behind Valerie Confections in Los Angeles, told us. “It’s not just steak, ribs, and potatoes. Just about everything can be cooked on the grill.”

“When I’m inside cooking, I’ve got my back to my family,” said Paula Disbrowe, author of the grilling cookbook Thank You for Smoking. Outside, on the other hand, the grill is the center of the entertainment, the hearth around which everyone gathers. For making the most of our backyard grates and cooking outside with ease, here are some of my top takeaways from grilling camp.

Chef Valerie Gordon demonstrates grilling best practices. Courtesy of Alisal Ranch

Break out the cast-iron skillet. A well-seasoned cast-iron vessel is a practically indestructible cooking tool that’s nonstick to boot. With one of these versatile skillets on the grates, you can make practically anything you’d make on an indoor stovetop—whether it’s scrambled eggs and French toast for breakfast, grilled-cheese sandwiches and shrimp skewers for lunch, or chicken thighs for meal prepping. “The bonus is the proteins absorb the wafting charcoal and wood smoke aromas, [yet] you retain all of the flavorful juices,” said Disbrowe. This means you can even grill dishes that require or produce a good deal of liquid, like a hearty paella or marinated vegetables.

A little wood goes a long way in imparting flavor. Photography by Sarah Range

Add woody, herbaceous aromas. Different kinds of wood impart different flavors, so Riker recommends experimenting with a few varieties to find your preferred wood or combination of various types. “Mesquite wood provides a strong smoky flavor, while fruitwoods like cherry or apple offer a milder, sweeter taste,” he explains, adding that his favorite is olive, which imparts a distinctly nutty essence. If you’re using a gas grill, you can still introduce the element of wood via a wood chip box. “Even a small amount of woodsmoke adds tremendous flavor,” advised Disbrowe, whose preferred woods are hickory and oak, both of which provide rich, intense aromas that pair especially well with red meat. Further heighten the flavor by adding fresh herbs directly to the grates: “I love to add sprigs of rosemary or even small stems of fresh bay leaves to the periphery of the fire, so they smolder more slowly,” Disbrowe noted.

Keep an all-purpose spice blend on hand. A simple spice mix is key to grilling efficiently for a crowd—it’s much easier to keep a single shaker on stand-by, rather than a whole line-up of spice jars. Take Santa Maria rub, for example, which is especially popular among tri-tip fans and typically includes salt, black pepper, and garlic powder (though some cooks like to incorporate additional flavors such as paprika, thyme, or cumin). The mild-flavored concoction can be sprinkled over eggs in the morning, rib-eye in the evening, and snacks in between.

Foil it up. Riker’s favorite foolproof technique for cooking delicate foods, like certain seafood and vegetables, is to seal them in packets of foil to keep the ingredients tender and moist. Add a splash of citrus juice and a sprinkling of spices and herbs first, and always crimp the edges of the packet tightly to keep everything contained. (Open it up carefully—nothing ruins a day of backyard fun like a nasty steam burn.) On that note, you should keep foil around anyway, as it’s handy for tenting cooked foods to keep them warm while they rest.

It’s easier to cook a handful of big steaks than many little ones. Courtesy of Alisal Ranch

Cook big steaks to feed a crowd. Instead of grilling individual steaks one by one, get big cuts of meat and grill those, then slice them up for guests. “The secret to cooking this meat to perfection is to season it generously,” said Craig Riker, Alisal Ranch’s executive chef. Sprinkle the entire surface with kosher salt, then refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 30 minutes, or ideally overnight. When you’re ready to grill, let the meat come to room temperature; then, cook the steak over indirect heat, seeking out the cooler parts of the grates, which will promote more even cooking. When the meat is 8–10 degrees away from the desired temperature, move the steak to the hotter parts of the grates and sear for a couple of minutes on each side. Reverse-searing achieves that crisp, brown exterior while keeping the inside juicy and tender. While a tomahawk steak might sound intimidating, Riker promises it’s a great at-home option: “The marbled fat yields melt-in-your-mouth tenderness and a robust flavor,” he said—especially when paired with a rich, herbaceous chimichurri.

Intensify salads by grilling the ingredients first. Try introducing a smoky char to your vegetables before tossing them into a salad, and you might never go back. Sturdy ingredients like asparagus, bell peppers, mushrooms, okra, squash, and shallots all taste great after a kiss from the flame. Before adding the grilled veg to your raw greens, simply toss them with some fresh herbs, butter, and apple cider vinegar to create what Riker calls “a flavor explosion.” Or, keep it extra simple with a mere three ingredients: “A split romaine, grilled and finished with olive oil and salt, is hard to beat,” suggested Burt Bakman, the pitmaster behind the Los Angeles restaurant Slab Barbecue. And don’t rule out fruit—grilled watermelon salad with feta is another one of his go-to’s.

Grill fruit to make spiked drinks. A brief rendezvous with heat can bring out the jamminess of sturdy fruits like pineapple and stone fruits. “Grilling peaches intensifies their sweetness,” said Riker, who recommends cooking the slices until they have char marks before adding them to a favorite sangria to the whole batch with subtle smoky flavor. (Drinks writer Leslie Pariseau aptly likens the aroma to “the comforting scent of an early evening campfire.”) Alternatively, muddle the grilled fruit with syrup and citrus juice, then shake it in with ice and your liquor of choice to make an icy, slurpable cocktail.

Make boats out of sturdy fruits and vegetables. Nothing’s more fun than an edible bowl, especially for kids, so turn ingredients into boats and fill them with tasty toppings. Riker recommends grilling a few halved, pitted avocados flesh-side down, then topping them with spicy salsa and cotija cheese for a creamy appetizer or side dish. Or, spoon the seeds out of a halved zucchini or eggplant before filling them with cheese and herbs and giving them a blast of heat for a craveable cheese pull. For dessert, try caramelizing halved, pitted peaches, then filling them with whipped cream or mascarpone and sprinkling with cinnamon sugar and granola—an entertaining spin on a peach crisp. The cooking and assembly all happen outside, and guests can top their boats to their liking.

Go ahead, make a pizza. It’s totally feasible—or, dare we say, easy—to make a pizza using your grill. First, stretch out the dough and give it a light sprinkle of flour. “Just a dusting will help prevent the pizza from sticking onto the peel and becoming a calzone,” noted Brendan Smith, co-owner of the Santa Barbara pizzeria Bettina. Place it directly on the grates and par-cook it on both sides; then, when you’re ready to eat, top it with sauce and other add-ons and give it a final grill. According to Smith’s co-owner Rachel Greenspan, if you opt for meats like sausage, they can be placed onto the crust raw: “The fat seeps out as it cooks,” she pointed out. Eggs are also a fun addition, especially for breakfast: use cheese to build a small well in the center of the pizza, then crack in a raw egg for a delectably oozy yolk. Smith also encourages home pizzaiolos to get creative with seasonal veg combinations: during spring, Tutti Frutti peas and mint pesto make a refreshing pair, while in the summer, the pizzeria always makes a peach-and-poblano-pepper pie. Don’t have pizza dough on hand? Swap in flatbreads or pitas for a time-saving alternative.

Make melty, custardy treats. Desserts made from liquidy, quick-cooking batters are great candidates for the grill—think a skillet chocolate-chip cookie, fudgy blondies, and sticky toffee pudding. (Dense batters with a long cook time, like pound cake, won’t perform as well). Make sure to grease any skillet using a pastry brush, and “you will get a crispy edge like you’ve never had in your life,” Gordon promised. “Throw the batter on the grill while you’re eating dinner, and as soon as you’re done eating, dessert is ready.”

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Aïoli Provençal https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/aioli/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:11 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-aioli/
Aioli Provencal
Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Olivia Mack McCool; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Enjoy this silky, French condiment alongside fresh veggies, seafood, or even frites.

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Aioli Provencal
Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Olivia Mack McCool; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

This traditional aïoli recipe comes to us from the inn Relais Notre-Dame in Alpes de Haute Provence. The garlicky sauce perfectly illustrates Provence’s culinary touchstones: simple preparations and local ingredients. Throughout Southern France, the silky, mayo-like condiment is served alongside meats, seafood, and raw or roasted vegetables as the centerpiece of a “grand aïoli.”We find it just as delicious paired with crispy frites

Yield: about 2 cups
Time: 13 minutes
  • 6 cloves garlic, peeled
  • Coarse salt
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • 2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Instructions

  1. To the bowl of a mortar, add the garlic and a generous pinch of salt. Use the pestle to pound the mixture into a smooth paste. Working with the pestle or a whisk, beat the egg yolks into garlic until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Begin adding the oil a few drops at a time, beating continuously, until the sauce begins to emulsify. (The flow of oil can be increased to a fine stream as the sauce comes together.) Once all the oil has been added, add the lemon juice a teaspoon at a time to thin, if desired. Season to taste with salt. Use immediately, or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

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16 Strawberry Recipes to Sweeten Your Spring and Summer https://www.saveur.com/best-strawberry-recipes/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:33:37 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/best-strawberry-recipes/
Best Strawberry Recipes
Photography by Christina Holmes

‘Tis the season for shortcake, spritzes, and sorbet—and for berry-filled savory snacks, too.

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Best Strawberry Recipes
Photography by Christina Holmes

Good strawberries—you know, those crimson, thimble-size gems currently perfuming the air at farm stands—are as ephemeral as spring itself. They can turn to mush in hours, a problem we often solve by tossing them back like popcorn while mosying home from the market. Cooks with more restraint, however, should keep strawberries fresh by storing them in the fridge, spread in a single layer on a paper towel in an airtight container.    

Strawberries make some of the world’s most heavenly sweets, from cool berry tarts to pretty pink cocktails and crowd-pleasing strawberry shortcakes. Rhubarb may be the strawberry’s most ubiquitous bedfellow, but the berry’s heady aromas play wonderfully with citrus, acid, booze, spices, and—yes—salt, as proven by dishes like strawberry-goat cheese hand pies and crackly strawberry focaccia. A dollop of dairy (mascarpone, yogurt, ice cream, what have you) turns them into something altogether ambrosial, as anyone who’s tucked into a bowl of fresh strawberries and cream can attest.

But we have a bone to pick with supermarket strawberries. While useful in a pinch for decorating desserts, they can be watery and tough. That’s because they’re a Chilean American hybrid bred for looks and durability as opposed to flavor. They pale in comparison to our favorite Tristars and Lilliputian fraises des bois, which you’re more likely to encounter at the farmers market—all the more reason to seek out (and, sigh, splurge on) the real deal during the berries’ fleeting season. With these recipes in your back pocket, you’ll be off to a running start.

Strawberry Bread

Strawberry Loaf Bread

Swirled with jam and and divoted with whole cooked strawberries, this snacking cake is a brunch knockout. Get the recipe >

Grand Marnier Strawberry Sundaes

Strawberry Sundae
Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling by Victoria Granof; Prop Styling by Dayna Seman

Strawberry milkshakes get the adult treatment in this boozy, orange-scented beverage that doubles as dessert. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Rhubarb Pâte de Fruit

Strawberry Pate de Fruit Recipe with Rhubarb
Photography by Belle Morizio

These fragrant jelly candies call for a bounty of fresh fruit—which means they’re healthy, right? Right? Get the recipe >

Strawberry Shortcake for a Crowd

Strawberry Shortcake
Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling By Jessie YuChen; Prop Styling By Kim Gray

Baking a single oversize biscuit instead of laboring over individual ones makes for a marvelously over-the-top presentation of the classic American dessert. Because our favorite strawberry shortcake recipe hinges on peak-season berries, it’s best to hit up your local farm stand for Tristar and other heirloom strawberries (alternatively, fancy-schmancy Oishii berries are sweet all year round). Get the recipe >

Strawberry Rhubarb Hand Pies

Strawberry Rhubarb Hand Pies
Photography by SAVEUR Editors

It’s two sticky thumbs up to these flaky, fork-crimped beauties perfect for picnicking and potlucks. Get the recipe >

Almond Cheesecake with Macerated Strawberries and Mint

Swedish Almond Cheesecake Recipe
Photography by Paola + Murray; Food Styling by Rebecca Jurkevich; Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

Swirled with jam and and divoted with whole cooked strawberries, this snacking cake is a brunch knockout. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Focaccia with Maple-Balsamic Onions

Strawberry Focaccia with Maple-Balsamic Onions
Photography by Thomas Payne

This sweet-and-salty focaccia that comes together with minimal effort is a welcome springtime twist on the original. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Spritz

Strawberry Spritz
Hayden Stinebaugh

Thickened with coconut milk and pepped up with fresh lime juice, the strawberry spritz created at Detroit’s Candy Bar drinks like a tropical vacation. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Ice Cream

Strawberry Ice Cream

It turns out that the secret to great strawberry ice cream is—you guessed it—sweet, overripe farmers-market berries. Get the recipe >

Strawberry-Beet Sorbet

Strawberry-Beet Sorbet
Photography by Ted + Chelsea Cavanaugh

Vibrant fuschia orbs of tart yet earthy sorbet are a refreshing finale to any summer cookout. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Rhubarb Cheesecake

Best Strawberry Recipes
Photography by Christina Holmes

Inspire oohs and aahs with this luxurious strawberry-topped cheesecake spread with smoky, tangy charred rhubarb jam. Get the recipe >

Goat Cheese and Strawberry Breakfast Tarts

Goat Cheese and Strawberry Breakfast Tarts

This recipe goes out to all the readers who can’t think of a better bagel topping than cream cheese and jam. Get the recipe >

Pavlova

Pavlova
Photography by Dave Lieberman

A crackly crown of meringue brimming with colorful berries is the kind of fresh, light dessert we crave when temperatures soar. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Rhubarb Yogurt Pops

Strawberry Lemonade Ice-Pops

Cool off with these homemade pink popsicles that are a hit with kids and adults alike. Get the recipe >

Strawberry Jam

Strawberry Jam
Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Preserve the summery flavor of fresh berries with this simple preparation. Get the recipe >

Strawberries with Wine

Strawberries with Wine
Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This bright, citrusy dessert from chef José Andrés makes the perfect nightcap to wind down an evening of grilling. Get the recipe >

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