Kat Craddock Archives | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/authors/kat-craddock/ Eat the world. Thu, 29 Jun 2023 17:40:13 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.1 https://www.saveur.com/uploads/2021/06/22/cropped-Saveur_FAV_CRM-1.png?auto=webp&width=32&height=32 Kat Craddock Archives | Saveur https://www.saveur.com/authors/kat-craddock/ 32 32 Two Pea Stir-Fry with Greens https://www.saveur.com/two-pea-stir-fry-with-greens-recipe/ Thu, 23 May 2019 01:32:00 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/two-pea-stir-fry-with-greens-recipe/
Stir-fried peas and pea shoots
KAT CRADDOCK

Quick cook your tender shoots in this Thai-inspired side dish.

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Stir-fried peas and pea shoots
KAT CRADDOCK

Snow peas, sugar snap peas, and pea shoots are quick-cooked with a Thai-inspired oyster-fish-soy sauce dressing, along with plenty of garlic and chiles, in this bold and punchy side dish from SAVEUR editor-in-chief Kat Craddock, which she adapted from a Pok Pok recipe by Andy Ricker. Shoots harvested later in the season are tougher in texture—adjust the cook time accordingly.

Yield: 4
Time: 10 minutes
  • 1 Tbsp. canola oil
  • 1 garlic clove, smashed
  • 1½ cups snow peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
  • 1½ cups snap peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
  • 2 bird’s-eye chiles, thinly sliced
  • 3 oz. pea shoots (tendrils, shoots, and leaves), cut into 2-in. lengths (2 cups, loosely packed)
  • 2 tsp. oyster sauce
  • 1½ tsp. fish sauce
  • 1½ tsp. soy sauce
  • ½ tsp. sugar

Instructions

  1. To a wok set over high heat, add the oil and swirl to coat. When smoking, add the garlic and fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds, followed by the snow peas, snap peas, and chiles. Cook, stirring continuously, until the pods are bright green and beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the pea shoots and 1 tablespoon of water and cook until wilted, 30–45 seconds. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar, and 2 tablespoons water and cook, stirring continuously, until the peas and greens are tender and evenly coated with sauce, 1–2 minutes more.

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How to Assemble a Layer Cake https://www.saveur.com/techniques/how-to-assemble-layer-cake/ Fri, 21 Apr 2023 22:24:28 +0000 /?p=156596
How to Decorate a Cake
Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

Because elegance requires less effort than you think, according to ‘More than Cake’ author Natasha Pickowicz.

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How to Decorate a Cake
Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

Building a great cake is nothing to be afraid of.

I worked as a pastry chef years back and have made more birthday cakes than I can count (and a handful of wedding cakes I’d prefer not to), and when New York pastry chef Natasha Pickowicz’s gorgeous new cookbook, More Than Cake, arrived in the mail, flipping through it reminded me just how low-stress making a really great cake can be. Sure, layer cakes are high-stakes; they’re the centerpieces of some of the most special occasions, an on-display embodiment of the baker’s skill and style. But Pickowicz gets it. While the multi-component cake recipes in her book are involved, an overall sense of chill persists throughout, encouraging and inspiring the reader while alleviating our collective dessert-related anxieties. 

The fastidious home baker will likely find More Than Cake a rewarding exercise in planning and time management; but jazzier readers will enjoy the open invitation to experiment and the lush series of highly-riffable prompts. Sure, you could make her elaborate fennel jam- and mascarpone-filled, pistachio buttercream-wrapped olive oil cake from scratch. You could also go at it a little more relaxed, borrowing an individual component or two from the book, then swapping in store-bought elements or your own creations for the rest. (When I spoke with Pickowicz on the phone, she eagerly encouraged either approach.) In addition to the recipes themselves, Pickowicz also provides a clear photo tutorial for how to assemble a layer cake like a pastry pro. I’ve often wondered why this smart and simple bakery method—which results in sharp edges, a level top, and a stable cake every time—hasn’t been the standard in home layer cake recipes, so I hopped on a call with the cookbook author to talk through the basics.

Check out her pro technique below, then get your hands on your own copy of the book here.

What you need:

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Just about all layer cake components can be made well ahead of time; most can be stored in the fridge or freezer. But before you begin, be sure that all of your ingredients are at the proper working temperature (cool room temp is ideal). 
Many home cake recipes suggest sawing thick baked rounds crosswise into fragile slices, which are then stacked freeform into teetering, icing-spackled towers. Pickowicz’s pro method is simpler, sturdier, and far more precise. “My whole approach,” she explains “is to build the cake the way you might assemble a lasagna or a tiramisu. You assemble it in a deep dish so that the layers are supported as they rest in the pan.”

STEP 1: Bake the cake in thin sheets and cut to size.

Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

Rather than baking thick layers in a round cake pan, Pickowicz prefers to spread her cake batters into large rimmed baking sheets (aka sheet pans). These thin layers bake more quickly and evenly than thicker rounds, which have a tendency to dome and crack.

Pickowicz then uses a deep, round cake pan as a stencil to cut as many circles as she needs. Be sure to reserve two perfect circles for the cake’s top and bottom layers and use the trimmings to “Frankenstein together” additional circles for the center layers. (Don’t worry: the filling will help fuse any irregular pieces together.)

STEP 2: Line a cake pan with plastic wrap and insert a circle of cake.

Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

Line the inside of the cake pan with 2 or 3 large sheets of plastic wrap, making sure that the film reaches all the way to the corners of the pan while still leaving plenty of overhang along the edges. Carefully lower an intact circle of cake into the pan. If using a “soak,” brush the layer generously. While Pickowicz acknowledges that soaks are not always strictly necessary, she likes the added moisture and flavor that comes from adding a syrup or creamy liquid. “Soaks are another opportunity to build flavor into a layer cake,” she explains.

STEP 3: Add a layer of filling, another circle of cake, and repeat.

Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

Old-fashioned American-style cakes often sandwich thick cake layers around modest swipes of the same frosting used to decorate the outside of the cake. Pickowicz prefers to play with more surprising textures, and a more balanced cake-to-filling ratio inspired by intricate mousse cakes popular in Korea and China. Spoon a generous layer of filling evenly over the cake layer: Try a layer of homemade or store bought jam, a curd, or even a nut butter or praline paste.

Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

If you like, top with another layer of filling—variation in texture is key—then repeat the process, adding another cake layer, a bit of soak (if using), and another layer of filling. Repeat this process four or five times, or until the cake pan is nearly filled, reserving one unbroken circle for the final layer.

Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

Top the final layer of filling with the unbroken cake circle, brush generously with your soak (if using), then fold the edges of the plastic up and around to cover. Press down gently to level the cake as needed. Wrap tightly with another layer of plastic wrap, then transfer the cake to the fridge for at least 8 and up to 72 hours, or to the freezer for up to a month.

STEP 4: Unmold the cake onto a platter or cake stand.

Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

The day you plan to serve the cake, unmold and frost it. (If the cake is frozen, thaw it overnight in the fridge before unmolding.) Unwrap the top of the cake, then invert the pan over a cake platter, cardboard cake round, or cake stand. Lift the pan up and away so that the perfectly flat bottom layer is now the top. Discard the plastic wrap.

STEP 5: Using an offset spatula, coat the cake generously with buttercream.

Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

Ice the cake: Some folks like to use a rotating cake stand at this stage and you may certainly do so if you like, but Pickowicz shrugs off the added equipment as unnecessary. “You can frost the cake right on the platter, right on your cake stand, right on your whatever!” If using buttercream you have made ahead of time, be sure it is at room temperature and beat it well until very smooth. Using an offset metal spatula, she explains, scoop half of your icing onto the top of the cake. Spread the buttercream all the way to the edges, then dollop the remaining buttercream evenly along the sides, smoothing gently to avoid scraping the edges of the cake and the filling, until the sides of the cake are thoroughly coated. (Remember: A well-chilled cake will hold together far better at this stage than a warm or room temperature one.) Run the spatula once more along the surfaces to smooth, scraping away any excess buttercream from the edges.

STEP 6: Decorate the cake with a piping bag fitted with a pastry tip.

Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

Once the cake is coated, you can consider it a blank canvas: Pickowicz’s decorating style is elegant, organic, and a bit freeform, but you can feel free to experiment with the many intricate cake decorating tools available online and in your local bakery supply shop. A pastry bag with or without a piping tip is an easy way to create sculptural designs with buttercream and other icings. Alleviate any pressure by making a bit more frosting than you need; that way, you can always scrape away any mistakes and start afresh.

STEP 7: Experiment with unconventional decor.

Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Graydon Herriot.

If piping bags and buttercream rosettes aren’t your style, that’s fine too! Some of Pickowicz’s most striking cakes are only very simply iced—then crowned with a few choice beauties from the farmers market. “When I’m decorating cake, I’m always looking at my pantry and fridge and wondering, ‘What do I have in here that I could use?’” she explains. “Maybe it’s this beautiful bunch of basil or some tomatoes on a vine. Maybe it’s whole nutmeg pods and cinnamon sticks. I like thinking beyond what we think ‘should’ be on a layer cake and instead just saying, ‘Well, what’s around me? How can I make this personal?’”

Get the Book

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A Note From Our Editor https://www.saveur.com/culture/saveur-new-chapter/ Mon, 10 Apr 2023 16:53:59 +0000 /?p=156464
Vibrant moles, colorful salsas, and antojitos at Milli restaurant.
Vibrant moles, colorful salsas, and antojitos at Milli restaurant. Leila Ashtari

SAVEUR’s New Chapter.

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Vibrant moles, colorful salsas, and antojitos at Milli restaurant.
Vibrant moles, colorful salsas, and antojitos at Milli restaurant. Leila Ashtari

Hello, Friends!

Big things are happening over here at SAVEUR this week. 

Back in 1994, a small group of editors led by Dorothy Kalins, Colman Andrews, and Christopher Hirsheimer launched SAVEUR as an ambitious print publication unlike any that had come before it. Through stories ranging from a deep dive into the egg, to profiles on “the Beavis and Butthead” of the Santa Barbara County wine scene, to the exquisite cover feature on Oaxacan mole, they set out to “tell the life story of food,” wrote Kalins, for readers who “see the world food first.” 

Food media looks a bit different today than it did in the ’90s, and SAVEUR has played no small part in that evolution. After three years of overhauling our website and rebuilding our team with Recurrent, our deeply loved brand is poised for growth. Today, I’m thrilled to announce that I’ve partnered with an investor to purchase SAVEUR from its most recent parent company. Effective immediately, I, along with our core editorial team, will begin transitioning our operations to thrive as a nimble and independent publication. 

I was 11 when SAVEUR’s first issue dropped. My mom signed us up for a subscription immediately, and I grew up devouring the magazine’s stories and recipes—many of which I still come back to today. When I moved away for college, SAVEUR kept me (more or less) out of trouble, inspiring me to work weekends as a cheesemonger and to host many a dorm-room dinner party. After graduation, it led me (like so many in the food business today) to culinary school, and then to a career in kitchens. In 2015, after over a decade working in restaurants, I joined SAVEUR by way of its test kitchen—a longtime dream come true. 

While our team has a rich and storied legacy to uphold, our business is now striking out on its own and moving into startup mode. I know that our superstar editorial team—and a number of new hires you’ll be hearing about soon—are exactly the right people to make this new project a success, and to guide SAVEUR into the future while staying true to the brand so many of you have loved and supported over the years.

I can’t wait to tell you about all the exciting announcements we’ve got cooking. If you don’t want to miss any of the coming news—trust me, you really won’t!—sign up for our newsletter here. And if you’d like to get in touch with me or anyone else on the team, shoot us a DM on Instagram, Facebook, or Twitter, or email us at editorial@saveur.com

–Kat Craddock, Editor-in-Chief / CEO

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Chicken Cordon Bleu https://www.saveur.com/recipes/chicken-cordon-bleu/ Sat, 18 Mar 2023 04:34:49 +0000 /?p=155746
Chicken Cordon Bleu
Photography by Kimberley Blanchot

Originally an Alpine invention, crispy ham-and-cheese-stuffed cutlets are a beloved comfort food staple at Paris’ Restaurant Rochechouart.

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Chicken Cordon Bleu
Photography by Kimberley Blanchot

From schnitzel and katsu to chicken Kiev, breaded and pan-fried cutlets abound throughout the world. Retro chicken cordon bleu—stuffed with melty Alpine cheese and ham—is one of the more lavish of the bunch, and while origin stories set the dish’s roots deep in the Swiss Alps, its popularity spread widely through the 20th century, so much so that subpar versions became the stuff of American TV dinners for decades. In Paris these days, both fresh and frozen cordon bleu is a convenient comfort, readily available from casual restaurants, neighborhood charcuteries, and even the frozen food emporium, Picard.

At Pigalle’s hip and elegant Restaurant Rochechouart, Naples-born chef de cuisine Luigi Di Giovanni serves his own zesty and elegant take on chicken cordon bleu. “It’s a French classic—comforting and simple—that immediately brings us back to our childhood.” Layered with Comté and jambon de Paris, paired with cornichon-studded sauce gribiche, and finished with sumac and lemon zest that brighten the rich and salty cutlets, Di Giovanni’s recipe is at once modern and familiar. 

Jambon de Paris is similar to the unsweetened deli-style ham available throughout the States. Comté—a firm, mountain-style melting cheese from the Jura—is nutty, fruity, and complex. Look for the exceptional Marcel Petite brand in U.S. cheese shops and specialty markets. (If you can’t find Comté, Gruyère is a similar and suitable substitute.) At Rochechouart, Di Giovanni pairs the cutlets with a simple fresh salad, but for a heartier meal, he suggests adding an extra green vegetable like broccoli, green beans, or snow peas, or a starchy side such as sautéed potatoes or fries. 

And for busy home cooks drawn to the appeal of a freezer version? “All of it can be prepared ahead of time, for those who don’t have much time to spend in the kitchen,” he explains. Prepare the cutlets through step two, then freeze on a baking sheet in a single layer. If cooking the cordon bleu out of the freezer, adjust the cook temp to medium-low and increase the time on the stove to 20 to 25 minutes.

Yield: 2
Time: 1 hour
  • Two 5-oz. chicken breasts
  • 3½ oz. thinly sliced Comté cheese
  • 3½ oz. thinly sliced ham
  • ⅔ cup all-purpose flour
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 large eggs
  • ⅔ cup breadcrumbs
  • ⅓ cup clarified butter, for frying
  • Finely grated lemon zest
  • Flaky sea salt
  • Ground sumac
  • Baby greens and lemon wedges, for serving

Instructions

  1. Place a large sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap on a clean work surface and position the chicken breasts in the center. Cover with a second large sheet of parchment or plastic, then, using a rolling pin or the flat side of a meat tenderizer, pound the breasts to an even ¼-inch thickness. Remove and discard the top sheet and position the cheese slices and the ham atop the two breasts, then fold the cutlets in half to enclose the ham and cheese inside. Secure each piece with a toothpick.
  2. To a wide bowl, add the flour, then season it lightly with salt and black pepper. In a separate wide bowl, beat the eggs and season them lightly with salt and black pepper. To a third bowl or large plate, add the breadcrumbs, and season lightly with salt and black pepper. Working with one cordon bleu at a time, dredge in the flour, followed by the egg mixture, and finally the bread crumbs, packing the crumbs onto the chicken to adhere; set by the stove.
  3. To a large, heavy skillet over medium heat, add the clarified butter. When the butter is hot but not yet smoking, add the cutlets and cook, turning occasionally, until the chicken is firm and cooked through, the breading is crisp and golden, and the cheese is melted, 10–15 minutes. Transfer the chicken cordon bleu  to two plates, sprinkle with lemon zest, flaky sea salt, and sumac, and serve hot, with baby greens and lemon wedges on the side.

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Sauce Gribiche https://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/sauce-gribiche/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:22:18 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/article-recipes-sauce-gribiche/
Sauce Gribiche
Photography by Belle Morizio

Whether you’re steaming veggies or frying fish, this zippy, mayo-adjacent French sauce is the instant upgrade you need.

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Sauce Gribiche
Photography by Belle Morizio

Classic sauce gribiche is the zippy cousin to mayonnaise, one of the six “sauces mères” at the heart of traditional French cuisine. Flavored with Dijon mustard and wine vinegar and studded with hard-boiled egg, cornichons, capers, and parsley, this version takes cues from the great Jacques Pépin and the Larousse Gastronomique—the definitive tome of French food and drink. A sort of continental sister to tartare sauce, this piquant condiment has the power to brighten and elevate a wide range of dishes, from steamed asparagus to fried fish to chicken cordon bleu. Anchovy is a non-traditional (but delicious) addition. For a vegetarian sauce, feel free to omit it. 

Yield: Makes: 1⅓ cup
Time: 15 minutes
  • 2 large, hard-boiled eggs, whites and yolks separated
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
  • 1 anchovy fillet, finely chopped (optional)
  • ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
  • 4 cornichons, finely chopped (1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp.)
  • 1 Tbsp. finely chopped capers
  • 1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley or chervil
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Pinch cayenne pepper

Instructions

  1. In a medium bowl, mash up the hard-boiled and raw egg yolks with the mustard and anchovy fillet (if using). Slowly begin drizzling in the oil a tablespoon or so at a time while whisking continuously, being sure that all the oil has been emulsified into the yolks before adding more. Once all the oil has been added and you have a very thick and creamy emulsion, whisk in the vinegar. Fold in the cornichons, capers, and parsley. Finely chop the egg white and fold that in too. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and cayenne, then use immediately or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

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Adjaruli Khachapuri (Georgian Cheese Bread) https://www.saveur.com/adjaruli-khachapuri-georgian-cheese-bread-recipe/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:36 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/adjaruli-khachapuri-georgian-cheese-bread-recipe/
Georgian Cheese Bread (Adjaruli Khachapuri)
Matt Taylor-Gross

Your one-way ticket to melty, eggy, buttery bliss.

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Georgian Cheese Bread (Adjaruli Khachapuri)
Matt Taylor-Gross

Filled with a runny egg and melted cheese—traditionally a mix of imeruli and sulguni—this traditional Georgian khachapuri recipe from the Black Sea region of Adjara is best eaten hot. We find that a blend of low moisture mozzarella and strong, tart feta gets you close to the traditional version. To eat, tear off pieces the crust and dunk them into the well of molten cheese, egg, and butter.

Yield: 4
Time: 2 hours 15 minutes

Ingredients

For the dough

  • 1 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>3</sub> cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
  • 1 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for greasing and brushing
  • 1 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> tsp. kosher salt
  • <sup>3</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. instant dry yeast
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. sugar

For the filling

  • 3 cups shredded low-moisture mozzarella cheese (12 oz.)
  • 1 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cups crumbled feta cheese (8 oz.)
  • 2 large eggs, or more as needed
  • 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed

Instructions

  1. Place a pizza stone in the center of the oven and preheat to 500°F. Meanwhile, lightly oil a large bowl and set aside.
  2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the yeast, sugar, olive oil, and 2⁄3 cup tepid water, the flour, and salt. Mix on the lowest speed until the dry ingredients are completely hydrated, 2–3 minutes, then increase to medium-low speed and mix until a smooth, wet dough comes together, 3–4 minutes.
  3. Transfer the dough to the oiled bowl and cover the bowl with a lid or plastic wrap. Set in a warm place until the dough has almost doubled in size, 50–60 minutes.
  4. Make the filling: In a large bowl, combine the cheeses and set aside.
  5. Crack the eggs gently into a separate small bowl (if the yolks break, start over).
  6. Onto a lightly floured work surface, turn out the dough. Divide into two roughly 6-ounce pieces and round each piece gently. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and set aside for 15 minutes.
  7. On a piece of lightly floured parchment paper, roll half of dough into a 10-inch circle about 1⁄8 inch thick. Spread a quarter of the cheese mixture (about 5 ounces) over the dough, leaving a 1⁄2-inch border all the way around. On one side of the circle, tightly roll the dough about a third of the way toward the center. Repeat on the opposite end, leaving a 2–3-inch-wide space between the two rolls. Pinch the two narrow ends of the rolls together and twist twice to seal, making a boat shape; place another quarter of the cheese mixture in the middle, packing down lightly.
  8. Keeping the khachapuri atop the paper, gently slide onto a pizza peel or overturned baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough and cheese. Set the khachapuri aside, uncovered, for 15 minutes, until slightly puffed.
  9. Just before baking, brush the edges of the khachapuri lightly with olive oil, then slide the breads (with the paper) onto the stone, spacing them at least 3 inches apart. Bake until the dough is light golden brown and the cheese is melted, 14–16 minutes. Open the oven door and gently pour 1 egg into the center of each boat, being careful not to bread the yolks. Close the oven and continue baking until the whites are just set, 3–4 minutes.
  10. Remove from the oven and dollop the butter evenly on top of the two breads. Serve hot.

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The Fluffiest White Bread in the World https://www.saveur.com/fluffy-white-bread-recipe/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:06 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/fluffy-white-bread-recipe/
Fluffy Milk Bread
MATT TAYLOR-GROSS

Global baking techniques work together to make one delightfully squishable loaf.

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Fluffy Milk Bread
MATT TAYLOR-GROSS

In spite of plenty of snobbery, tender white bread remains a beloved staple of cuisines all around the world. Editorial director (and ex-professional bread baker) Kat Craddock’s version is aerated and fluffy like North American packaged loaves, but with the enriched chew and structure of French pain au lait. She also borrowed a shaping technique from Japanese and Taiwanese bakers, which results in a delicate, feathery crumb. The result: an ethereally fluffy, generously buttery, and delightfully squishable loaf.

Get seasonal recipes, methods and techniques sent right to your inbox—sign up here to receive SAVEUR’s newsletters. And don’t forget to follow us on Instagram at @saveurmag.

Featured In: How to Make the Fluffiest White Bread in the World

Yield: 6–8
Time: 4 hours 10 minutes
  • 1 large egg
  • <sup>2</sup>⁄<sub>3</sub> cup (160 g.) whole milk at room temperature (about 75°), plus more for brushing
  • 3 tbsp. (40 g.) slightly warmed water (about 85°F)
  • 2 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>3</sub> cups plus 1 Tbsp. (340 g.) bread flour
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cup plus 1 tsp. (60 g.) sugar
  • 1 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> tsp. (4 g.) instant dry yeast
  • 2 tsp. (6 g.) kosher salt
  • <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub> cup (60 g.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • Nonstick baking spray, or a neutral-flavored oil, for greasing

Instructions

  1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the egg, milk, water, flour, sugar, yeast, and salt; beat on the lowest speed until a dough begins to form, about 3 minutes. Raise the mixer to the second speed and beat 4 minutes more. (The dough should be smooth and quite sticky). Lower the speed, add the butter, and mix 12 minutes more, using a rubber spatula to scrape down the hook and bowl as necessary.
  2. Lightly grease a medium bowl with nonstick spray, then add the dough. Cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature until significantly puffed (but not necessarily doubled in volume), about 90 minutes.
  3. Lightly grease a 9-inch loaf pan with nonstick baking spray, then line with parchment paper. Lightly grease the bottom and sides of the parchment paper with more spray.
  4. On a lightly floured work surface, divide the dough into 3 (220-gram) pieces and lightly round them all. Cover the pieces with a clean towel and let rest for 10-15 minutes. Roll one piece into an 11×6-inch rectangle. Fold the two short ends of the rectangle in to meet each other. With the seam side facing up and starting from one of the dough’s shorter ends, roll the resulting rectangle up into a tight cylinder. Set aside, then repeat with the remaining dough pieces.
  5. Transfer the dough pieces crosswise into the prepared loaf pan, being sure to space them evenly.
  6. Preheat the oven to 375°. Meanwhile, lightly cover the loaf with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until the dough is just peeking over the rim of the pan, 60-75 minutes. When ready to bake, remove the plastic wrap and brush with milk. Bake until evenly dark golden brown, 35-40 minutes.
  7. Remove and let cool for 15 minutes before using the parchment paper to lift the white bread out of the pan. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, at least 1 hour, before slicing.

More Bread Recipes

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Pickled Cocktail Cranberries https://www.saveur.com/pickled-cocktail-cranberry-recipe/ Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:34:45 +0000 https://dev.saveur.com/uncategorized/pickled-cocktail-cranberry-recipe/
pickled cranberry recipe
Heami Lee

Swap out your martini olive for the tangy crunch of pickled winter fruit.

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pickled cranberry recipe
Heami Lee

We love the brininess of olives or pickled pearl onions in our martinis and Gibsons, but pickled cranberries deliver the same salty kick plus a puckery tartness, satisfying crunch, and pretty crimson hue to holiday cocktails. Though fresh cranberries take several days to tenderize and absorb flavor, defrosted frozen ones have slightly softer skins, which speeds up the pickling process. Get a batch started at least two days before you plan to serve. Cinnamon leaves can be ordered online from Burlap & Barrel.

Yield: 2 cups
Time: 36 hours 10 minutes
  • 1 <sup>2</sup>⁄<sub>3</sub> cups frozen cranberries
  • 2 whole star anise
  • 1 whole <a href="https://www.burlapandbarrel.com/shop/cinnamon-tree-leaves">cinnamon tree leaf</a> or sprig of fresh rosemary
  • 1 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> cups apple cider vinegar
  • 1 tbsp. sugar
  • 1 <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>2</sub> tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

  1. In a 16-ounce resealable jar, pack the frozen cranberries, star anise, and cinnamon tree leaf or rosemary and set aside.
  2. In a small pot, combine the cider vinegar, 1⁄2 cup water, sugar and kosher salt. Set over medium heat and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. When the mixture is hot, pour over the berries, then cover and seal. Let stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then refrigerate for another 12-24 hours. Use immediately or store up to 4 weeks.

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How to Serve Champagne Like a Pro at Home https://www.saveur.com/culture/how-to-serve-champagne/ Wed, 21 Dec 2022 14:37:52 +0000 /?p=152304
How to Serve Champagne Like a Pro at Home
Photography: David Malosh; Food Styling: Simon Andrews; Prop Styling: Summer Moore

According to the somm at Northern California’s buzziest new restaurant.

The post How to Serve Champagne Like a Pro at Home appeared first on Saveur.

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How to Serve Champagne Like a Pro at Home
Photography: David Malosh; Food Styling: Simon Andrews; Prop Styling: Summer Moore

Cyrus Schultz thinks Champagne is always a good idea. Born and raised in Maui, Schultz cut his teeth serving wine in celebrated fine dining establishments throughout Hawaii and California, including Roy’s in Maui, Benu in San Francisco, and the French Laundry in Napa Valley. When the now-sommelier signed on to run the wine program at Sonoma County’s Cyrus (the shared name is a coincidence), he took great care to ensure that the restaurant’s aperitif service set the tone for the whole meal. That’s why, heading into year-end festivities, I reached out to him for advice on how to serve Champagne at home like a pro—from optimal glassware to perfect food pairings.

If ever there was a time for the Cyrus team to break out the Champagne, it’s now. The Northern California wine region’s most anticipated new restaurant of the year, Cyrus is actually about to embark on a new chapter. After a lease dispute in their intimate and widely loved original location, co-owners, chef Doug Keane and mâitre’d Nick Peyton abruptly closed up shop a decade ago. This September, after years of false starts and pandemic woes, the pair finally opened the doors on this second act. Barely three months later, reservations for the 17-course tasting menu are booked solid, and the team recently took home Cyrus 2.0’s first Michelin Star.

The morning before the Michelin news came through, I happened to be on the premises, scoping out the space and sipping a graciously poured glass of bubbles before dinner service. The room was designed as a reimagining of the famed pre-dinner Champagne and caviar cart guests had come to love at the original location. Diners begin their meal with bubbly and small bites overlooking acres of surrounding vineyards and, beyond that, the rolling hills of the Alexander Valley. Even in the daytime, an understated luxe permeates the room. “It’s hard to not fall for the space,” Schultz tells me. “We offer three seatings each night, and for each of those, we’ve built in a half an hour where you can just sit, get a glass of Champagne, and watch the seasons change over the vineyards.” 

Whether you’re hosting everyone you know this season, or are looking to make the most of a special bottle with your favorite dinner companion, your evening deserves just as much. Here are Schultz’s tips for bringing a little bit of Cyrus’ Champagne chic into your own home.

Photography by Kat Craddock

The Glassware:

At Cyrus, stemware is the first thing diners bring to their lips, so Schultz was acutely aware just how important it would be to choose the proper champagne glass. In the Lounge, he uses Zalto tulips to serve all effervescent pours. “You want something that doesn’t cage all the flavors,” he explains. “A more generous glass shape allows the wine to be more expressive and speak louder” than it might in a standard, straight-sided flute.

For elevating the Champagne experience at home, glassware is the clear place to start. If your space or budget demands that you streamline your options, though, Schultz finds that sparkling wines can shine just as brightly in an elegant, all-purpose white wine glass that “lets the bubbles breathe a little.” (He uses the Sophienwald brand at home.)

Feeling festive, or setting up a Champagne fountain? “I also do love a coupe,” he admits. “For the right time and occasion, with a wine that’s fresh and vibrant and super-cold, a coupe can make you feel like you’re in that Great Gatsby era.” In other words, the glass sets the mood. “Coupes may not be the most functional, but sometimes they make you feel great, and how you feel when you’re drinking something is so important, too.” 

Keep it Cold:

When it comes to Champagne, you’re going for cold—significantly colder than other white wines, but not freezing. “You don’t want your champagne so cold that its flavors start to close down,” Schultz warns; he suggests aiming for somewhere around 46 degrees Fahrenheit (or a touch colder for non-Champagne sparklers, like cremant or Prosecco). 

The reason for this chilly temp boils down to physics. With still wines, proper temperature is all about flavor and fragrance, but with bubbles, temperature also has an impact on texture. Rising temperatures cause carbonation to expand, resulting in a more open mousse (i.e. fatter bubbles). “Effervescence is a texture rather than a flavor,” Schultz explains, “and there’s a point where the mousse behaves on the palate in a way where the wine just sings. I usually like Champagne to be very finely, tightly wound, and have that really delicate bead, but depending on the wine, sometimes it can warm up a touch, and become much more expressive.”

How can you tell when a bottle is cold enough? After years in the business, Schultz relies on instinct and physical touch, but admits that, for most, this method is not precise. For a 750-milliliter bottle, three hours in the fridge is a safe minimum starting point. An ice bucket can be faster and convenient, but Schultz reminds us that when using one, the bottle should be fully submerged in order to chill evenly. (Also remember that magnums and larger bottles take substantially longer to chill than those standard 750s.)

Food Pairings:

For nibbles to pair with their Champagne, chef Keane sends guests dainty canapés—often featuring uber-luxe ingredients like wagyu and truffles—to tease the lengthy dinner to come. They may also choose to enjoy a serving of caviar. While the ingredients are lavish, the bites are intentionally petite. 

For a more casual—yet still elevated—home experience, Schultz likes to offer more generous portions of simple, fatty foods: think fried chicken or potato chips, or the occasional silky slice of foie gras. With fuller, fruitier rosé Champagnes, though, he prefers to veer in another direction, looking to his home state for inspiration: raw tuna, seasoned with scallion, soy sauce, sesame, and inamona salt. “Rosé has enough power to stand up to the rich, oily nature of ahi,” he tells me.  “Don’t sleep on rosé Champagne and ahi poke!”

Photography by Kat Craddock

The Main Event:

Schultz built Cyrus’s 800+ bottle wine menu from scratch; today, the restaurant’s cellar boasts just over a hundred Champagnes (and a handful of stand-out Sonoma sparklers). Rare vintages from well-known marquee houses are listed alongside niche grower-producers, and while many of the selects are near impossible to find outside of private collections and wine-focused restaurants, some of the somm’s favorites are available in stores. In the $40 to $60 price range, he suggests seeking out Chartogne-Taillet, Pierre Peters, or the consistently delicious Pol Roger

For folks looking to splurge, Schultz points to Krug or cult favorite Salon—an early pioneer of the Blanc de Blancs style which only produces wines in the most exceptional of vintages. “[Salon] only makes one wine, so you know it’s going to be delicious. You don’t have to do all this homework about, ‘was that a good vintage or a bad one?’ They’ve done it all for you—but it is a splurge!”

A Note on Gifting Champagne Like a Pro:

Schultz has thoughts on gifting Champagne, too. “The biggest thing I try to let people know is that if I’m giving them a bottle of Champagne, I’m saying, ‘Hey, this is something for you to drink and enjoy now.’” Recipients of wine gifts may instinctively save the bottle for another special occasion, but Schultz reminds us that the holidays are about enjoyment and fun. “Nothing does that like opening a bottle of Champagne.”

How To Open Champagne Like A Swashbuckling Sommelier

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Shake Off the Winter Blues with Leah Cohen’s Tropical Seafood Feast https://www.saveur.com/recipes/dinner-at-kats-leah-cohen/ Tue, 13 Dec 2022 20:25:00 +0000 /?p=151633
Cooking Dinner
Photography by Belle Morizio

Coconut, tamarind, and citrus sparkle in this installment of Dinner at Kat’s.

The post Shake Off the Winter Blues with Leah Cohen’s Tropical Seafood Feast appeared first on Saveur.

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Cooking Dinner
Photography by Belle Morizio

Don’t fear the dinner party! We’re of the opinion that hosting is so much more fun when guests are welcomed into the kitchen. This is Dinner at Kat’s—a new series wherein SAVEUR editorial director Kat Craddock welcomes buzzy chefs, cookbook authors, and wine and spirits pros into her home for a day of cooking and connection. There’s no mystery behind throwing a successful dinner party. Find the menus, recipes, drinks, shopping tips, and tricks to make it happen right here.

The Guest: 

While winter root veggies and hearty braises have their charms, come December, I’m always jonesing for lighter and brighter fare. Chef and cookbook author Leah Cohen grew up in New York’s Westchester County and now lives in Jersey City, so she’s no stranger to the Northeast’s dragging, dreary winters. The food at her restaurants—Pig & Khao on the Lower East Side and Piggyback up by Madison Square Garden—is inspired by Leah’s extensive travels throughout Southeast Asia and her own Filipino heritage. In the bone-chilling depths of winter, her bright, chile-laced fare is the next-best-thing to a Southeast Asian vacation.

Throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, Leah kept her kitchens open, coming into the city daily to prepare meals for front-line workers through the Rethink Chinatown Initiative. These days, business is more or less back to normal, and between running her restaurants and raising her two sons with her husband and business partner Ben Byruch, and judging the hit PBS show, The Great American Recipe, Leah has plenty to keep her busy. So I was over-the-moon that she agreed to join me for dinner.

Photography by Belle Morizio

The Menu:

Photography by Belle Morizio

The Big Night: 

Photography by Belle Morizio

Leah and I hit up the Union Square Greenmarket for some provisions in the morning, then headed back to my apartment to cook. Back in my pastry cheffing days, I loved to perk up guests’ palates in the winter with tropical flavors and plenty of in-season citrus. So when she suggested expanding that sunny vibe throughout the meal with a crunchy green mango salad and a tart and tamarind-laced pot of sinigang, I knew we were in for a treat. 
SAVEUR’s senior recipes editor, Benjamin Kemper, was in town from Madrid that day too, so he came over to join us. Benjamin’s a good pal, and one of the people I work with the most every day. But, while I’ve tested, edited, and eaten so many of his recipes, we almost never get the chance to cook and eat together. A restaurant vet himself, he knows his way around the kitchen, and the three of us clicked into sync right away, slicing, shredding, and steaming through our mise en place over our tropical, happy-hour cocktails. 

Leah and I knew we were going to want to nosh on something salty and fried while we cooked, so she showed us how to make ukoy—crunchy sweet potato fritters with Chinese chives and baby shrimp. Doused in spicy, seasoned cane vinegar and paired with our sweet drinks, they were, in no uncertain terms, a revelation.

Ukoy are great for a party. Everyone loves fried food, you can make them in advance, and they’ll still stay crispy.

– Leah Cohen

For our main course, Leah decided to make one of her family favorites. Sinigang—a tamarind-laced Filipino soup—is home cooking at its best. There are many traditional variations, which can include fatty pork, chicken, or seafood. The chef grew up eating her mom’s red snapper sinigang, and still today, it’s the only style of the dish she makes. Impressive and colorful enough for a dinner party, the recipe is also easy, mild, and nourishing enough for a soothing sick-day supper—in other words, you’re going to want to bookmark this one.

My mom used Mama Sita’s, so it reminds me of when she made sinigang when I was growing up. It’s all about the nostalgia for me.

–Leah Cohen

Anticipating that Leah’s savory dishes would take up a good bit of space in my little city kitchen, I made sure our dessert course was squared away a day ahead of time. I found a great, old-school chocolate-dipped macaroon recipe in our archives that I whipped up in homage to Leah’s native New York, then echoed the cookies’ tropical notes with a rum-spiked coconut sorbet.

At The Bar:

Our classic cocktail expert, Shannon Mustipher, wrote a fantastic book on Tiki drinks, so when she saw our menu, she was thrilled to develop a recipe that honored the genre’s Filipino roots. For the Mabunga cocktail, she infused a bottle of Kasama’s aged Filipino rum with unrefined coconut oil, then added classic Tiki and Filipino flavors: banana, coconut, and calamansi. Shannon was on her way to a specialty rum event in Philly and couldn’t stick around long. But, once she dropped off the ingredients, Benjamin took over the necessary bartending duties, crushing ice and mixing drinks for us like a pro. 

Shopping All-Stars:

Pro Tips:

  • Many Tiki-style drinks benefit from a generous scoop of crushed ice. If your fridge doesn’t have a crushed ice maker, do yourself a favor and break out the food processor early. Before your guests arrive, pulse ordinary ice cubes in small batches, then transfer immediately to a container in your freezer. Also note: crushed ice melts far more quickly than cubes; process double the amount of ice that you think you’ll need.
  • While infusing spirits with fresh or dried coconut works great, I’ve always hated how much booze was lost in the process due to absorption. “Fat-washing” is a pro bartender technique in which oils and other high-fat foods are used to infuse flavor and fragrance into spirits. Shannon’s clever use of unrefined coconut oil results in a potently coconut-scented rum with just about 100 percent yield.
  • I take dessert seriously, but like to get the heavy lifting out of the way ahead of time so I can focus on dinner and my guests. Popping classic coconut macaroons into the fridge immediately after dipping them in melted chocolate eliminates the need for fussy and time-consuming tempering—though if that’s your jam, by all means check out our handy how-to.
  • Since I had plenty of melted chocolate left over from the cookies, I took a page out of my former chef, Mindy Segal’s playbook and swirled the leftovers into half of my vegan coconut sorbet, stracciatella-style.

Get the Recipes:

Magbunga Cocktail (Coconut-Infused Rum, Banana, Pineapple, Calamansi)

Magbunga Cocktail
Photography by Belle Morizio

Get the recipe >

Ukoy (Shrimp and Sweet Potato Fritters)

Filipino Shrimp Fritters
Photography by Belle Morizio

Get the recipe >

Red Snapper Sinigang

Red Snapper Sinigang
Photography by Belle Morizio

Get the recipe >

Chocolate-Coconut Macaroons

Chocolate-Coconut Macaroons
Photography by Belle Morizio

Get the recipe >

Coconut-Chip Sorbet

Quick Coconut-Chip Sorbet
Photography by Belle Morizio

Get the recipe >

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