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Croissants au Beurre

Chad Robertson — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:35 +0000

Emma Star Jensen

The croissant is the most celebrated member of the family of butter- and sugar-enriched, yeasted pastries known as viennoiseries. They obtain their signature flaky texture through lamination, the process of coating a dough with fat and repeatedly folding and rolling it to create layers. Tartine owner Chad Robertson insists on an unsalted, high-fat butter with at least 80 percent fat for laminating his straight-armed versions.

Recipe times may vary drastically depending on environmental factors, so be sure to mind the visual cues before moving on to the next step. If possible, use a scale to measure your ingredients and work in a cool room.

Featured in “How to Make the Best Ultra-Buttery Croissants,” by Kat Craddock.

Ingredients

For the Preferment:

³⁄₄ cup (200 g) 2% milk
¹⁄₂ tsp. (2 g) active dry yeast (not instant)
1 ¹⁄₄ cups (175 g) bread flour

For the Dough:

2 tsp. (8 g) active dry yeast (not instant)
1 ³⁄₄ cups (425 g) 2% milk
5 ¹⁄₄ cups (800 g) bread flour, plus more as needed
¹⁄₃ cup (70 g) sugar
1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. (22 g) fine sea salt
1 tbsp. (12 g) unsalted butter, melted
5 sticks (585 g) high-fat unsalted butter (look for European-style brands like Plugra, President, or Kerrygold) at room temperature
3 large egg yolks
2 tbsp. heavy cream

Instructions

Make the preferment: In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the milk just enough to take the chill off. (The milk should not feel warm or cold to the touch, 80°–90°.)
Pour the milk into a large bowl, then sprinkle in the yeast and stir to dissolve. Add the flour and mix with a wooden spoon until a smooth batter forms. Cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel and let the mixture rise until almost doubled in volume, 2½–3 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.
Make the dough: Transfer the preferment to the large bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Set the milk, flour, sugar, salt, and melted butter nearby. Add the yeast to the preferment and mix on low speed, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl and bring together the ingredients as needed, until the yeast is incorporated and the mixture is an even, well-mixed mass, about 2 minutes. Raise the speed to medium, and while mixing, slowly add half of the milk. Continue to mix until fully incorporated. Turn off the mixer, then add the flour, sugar, salt, melted butter, and the remaining half of the milk. Mix on low speed until a loose dough forms, about 2 minutes. Return the speed to medium and mix until the dough is smooth and cohesive, 2 minutes more. Remove the hook and cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel. Let rise in a cool place until the volume has increased by nearly half, about 1½ hours.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and form it into a rough rectangle about 2 inches thick. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled through, 3–4 hours.
One hour before laminating the dough, make your butter sheet. Place a large sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap on a work surface. Add the butter to the center in a neat pile, then cover with a second sheet. Use a rolling pin to flatten and form the butter into a 12×18½-inch rectangle, peeling back the top sheet to manipulate the butter into shape as needed. Refrigerate to lightly chill but not fully resolidify, 5–10 minutes.
Laminate the dough: Lightly flour a work surface. Retrieve and unwrap the dough, then roll it out to a 28×12-inch rectangle. With a long side facing you, peel the top sheet away from the butter and flip it over to cover the left two-thirds of the rectangle. Peel away the other sheet. Fold the uncovered third of the dough over the butter, then fold the left-hand third over the center, as if folding a business letter. With your fingers, push down along the seams on the top and the bottom to seal in the butter. Give the dough a quarter turn so that the seams are perpendicular to you. Roll out the dough once more into a 28×12-inch rectangle, and fold again in the same manner (no need to pinch the seams again). Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to relax the gluten in the dough.
Clean the work surface, dust again lightly with flour, and retrieve the dough. Unwrap and again roll out into a rectangle 28×12 inches. Fold into thirds so that the rectangle measures 9×12 inches and 1½–2 inches thick. Wrap in plastic and immediately freeze on a flat surface for at least 1 hour or up to 1 week. (if frozen for more than an hour, transfer the dough to the refrigerator to thaw overnight before using in the morning.)
Three hours before you are ready to serve, form and proof the croissants: Remove the thawed dough from the refrigerator. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. Lightly dust a work surface with flour and roll into a 12×40-inch rectangle about 1⁄8 inch thick. Use a straight edge and a paring knife or pizza cutter to carefully trim 1 inch from each of the long sides; save for another use. Cut the remaining dough into 14 triangles, 4 inches at the base and 10 inches tall. Working one at a time, stretch the triangles slightly to extend them to 11 inches. Then, starting at the base, roll each tightly all the way to the tip to form an even, straight-armed croissant shape. Press slightly at the tip to adhere and to make a slightly flattened base for the croissant to rest on. Continue rolling the croissants in this manner, then transfer them, spaced evenly apart and flattened side down on the prepared baking sheets (no more than 6 croissants per baking sheet).
Preheat the oven to 400° and set the racks at least 4 inches apart. (If you only have room for 2 racks, the croissants should be baked in 2 rounds.) Set a large, wide baking dish filled with water on the floor of the oven. Place the baking sheets in a warm, preferably humid spot and let rise until the croissants are puffed, very gassy, and about doubled in size (they should slowly spring back when poked with your fingertip and jiggle slightly like gelatin when the tray is shaken), 60–80 minutes.
In a small bowl, beat the yolks and heavy cream. Brush the risen croissants evenly with the mixture and bake, without opening the oven, until the croissants begin to color, 20–22 minutes. Rotate the pans and continue cooking until evenly golden, 6–8 minutes more. Let cool slightly before serving.

Time To Make The Dough

Making the Dough Christina Holmes

Lead viennoisier, Fausto Echeverria, uses a high-fat, European-style butter from Oregon to laminate Tartine’s croissant dough. First, a thin sheet of butter is laid on top of the dough before it is folded into thirds (1). Then, Echeverria rolls the dough out a second time (2), before folding it again in thirds like a letter (3, 4). After a short rest in the fridge, the folding process is repeated once more. The dough is then rested again for several hours to relax the gluten. After the final rest, the dough can be sheeted out and shaped into croissants, danish, and morning buns.

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Kugelhopf

Christine Ferber — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:15 +0000

Pastry chef Christine Ferber's not-too-sweet kugelhopf, an Alsatian cake baked in a distinctive ring mold, has just a few choice raisins per slice. Enjoy with a sweet Alsatian wine, like gewürztraminer or muscat. Matt Taylor-Gross

Pastry chef Christine Ferber’s not-too-sweet kugelhopf recipe has just a few choice raisins per slice. The classic Alsatian Christmas cake is baked in a distinctive ring mold. Traditional kugelhopf molds are available online, but in a pinch, a standard fluted cake pan works, too. Note: Don’t rush the mixing and fermentation periods for this dough; the flavor and open-crumb structure of the delicate cake are at their best when allowed to develop slowly.

Featured in: The Incredible Kugelhopf of Christine Ferber

Yield: serves 8-10

Time: 5 hours

¹⁄₂ cup raisins
2 tbsp. kirsch
1 cup milk
1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fresh yeast
2⁄3 cup plus 2 3⁄4 cups bread flour (1 lb. total, divided)
2 tbsp. superfine sugar
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 large egg
13 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing
¹⁄₃ cup whole almonds
Confectioners sugar, for dusting

Instructions

In a small bowl, soak the raisins in the kirsch and 2 tablespoons hot water for 30 minutes, then strain, discarding the liquid.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a hook attachment, mix the milk, yeast, and 2⁄3 cup flour on low speed just to combine, about 1 minute. Let stand for 15 minutes, then add the remaining flour, the sugar, and the salt, and mix on low speed until evenly combined, 1-2 minutes. Add the egg and continue mixing on low speed until incorporated, 3-4 minutes. Increase the speed by 1 level and continue mixing until the dough is smooth and elastic (but still a bit sticky), 3-4 minutes more. Revert to lowest speed, add the butter, and continue mixing, using a silicone spatula to occasionally scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl, until the butter is incorporated and the dough is very smooth and glossy, 12-15 minutes more. Add the raisins and continue mixing on low speed to distribute them throughout the dough, about 2 minutes more. Lightly grease a medium bowl with butter, then add the dough, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature until nearly doubled in size, 1-11⁄4 hours.
Gently press the dough down to deflate, fold it in thirds, then cover the bowl again. Set aside until the dough has nearly doubled again, 30-40 minutes more.
Meanwhile, soak the almonds in hot water for 5 minutes, then drain. Grease a kugelhopf pan (or fluted cake pan, if using) lightly with butter, then distribute the soaked almonds among the grooves of the pan. Using your fist, punch a hole in the center of the dough, then gently lift and position it in the pre- pared pan. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until nearly doubled, 30-40 minutes.
Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Transfer the kugelhopf to the oven, then immediately lower the temperature to 350°F. Bake until deep golden brown, 40-50 minutes. Immediately, and gently, invert and unmold the cake onto a wire rack and cool completely.

Note: Fresh cake yeast, which dissolves well in cool liquid, is the ideal leavening for heavily enriched, high-hydration doughs like this one. Look for it in the fridge or freezer section of well-stocked grocery stores. Can’t find it? Substitute one third the quantity by weight of instant dry yeast; in this case, 1 2⁄3 teaspoons.

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Our Favorite Gumbo Recipe for a Crowd

Madeleine Deliee — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:26 +0000

Photography by Dan Dao

“There are as many ways to make gumbo in Louisiana as there are cooks,” says chef Frank Brigtsen of Brigtsen’s Restaurant in New Orleans. His rich, hearty version—a “filé gumbo” thickened with ground sassafras leaves—uses the flavorful oil left over from browning the chicken to make the roux, upping the meatiness and complexity of the dish.

Featured in “Channel the ‘90s This Soup Season by Making a Bit Pot of Gumbo,” by Madeleine Deliee.

Yield: Serves 10–12

Time: 4 hours 30 minutes

1 lb. andouille sausage, cut into ¼-in.-thick half-moons
3 cup all-purpose flour, divided
3 Tbsp. Cajun seasoning, divided
One 3 lb. chicken, cut into 6 pieces or 3 lb. bone-in skin-on chicken pieces
Peanut oil, for frying
2 Tbsp. olive oil
4 cup coarsely chopped yellow onions, divided
3 cup coarsely chopped celery, divided
2 cup coarsely chopped seeded green bell pepper, divided
2 bay leaves
3 Tbsp. filé powder
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
¼ tsp. dried thyme
¼ tsp. ground white pepper
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
12 cups chicken stock, or water
Steamed white rice, for serving

Instructions

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. On a foil-lined baking sheet, spread the sausage in an even layer and bake until the edges are browned, 35–40 minutes. Set aside and turn off the oven.
Meanwhile, in a shallow dish or pie plate, whisk together 2 cups of the flour and 1 tablespoon of the Cajun seasoning. Sprinkle the chicken all over with the remaining Cajun seasoning. Dredge each piece in the seasoned flour and transfer to a plate beside the stove.
Into a large pot or Dutch oven fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, pour the peanut oil to a depth of ½ inch and turn the heat to medium-high. When the temperature reads 350°F, working in batches, fry the chicken, turning once, until browned and crisp, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Position a cheesecloth-lined fine-mesh strainer over a heatproof measuring cup, then carefully strain the peanut oil. Wipe out the pot and return it to the stove.
Make the roux: Into the pot, pour ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the reserved peanut oil (save the rest for another use) and turn the heat to medium-high. When it’s hot and shimmering, gradually whisk in the remaining flour and cook, whisking continuously, until the roux is butterscotch-colored, 2–3 minutes. Turn the heat to medium and continue to cook, whisking continuously, until the roux is reddish brown, 15–20 minutes more. Scrape the roux into a heatproof bowl, wipe out the pot, and return it to the stove.
To the empty pot, add the olive oil, 3 cups of the onion, 2 cups of the celery, 1½ cups of the bell pepper, and the bay leaves. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, 10–12 minutes. Turn the heat to medium and add the remaining onion, celery, and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes more. Turn the heat to low and add the filé, salt, cayenne, black pepper, thyme, white pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring continuously, until the filé dissolves into a smooth paste, 3–4 minutes. Gradually whisk in the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the reserved sausage, then turn the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally and skimming any fat that rises to the surface, until the vegetables are soft and the liquid has reduced slightly, about 1 hour.
Add the reserved chicken and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is fully cooked, 30–35 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the chicken pieces to a cutting board, and when cool enough to handle, discard the bones and skin and coarsely chop the meat; set aside.
Bring the liquid to a boil and skim any fat that rises to the surface. Whisk 2 tablespoons of the roux into the boiling broth. Repeat, adding the roux spoonful by spoonful, until none remains. Turn the heat to low and cook, skimming any fat that rises to the surface, until the gumbo thickens slightly, about 25 minutes. Return the chopped chicken to the pot and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring gently, until the chicken is heated through, about 5 minutes. Serve with rice.

The post Our Favorite Gumbo Recipe for a Crowd appeared first on Saveur.

Scotch Eggs

Lucy-Ruth Hathaway — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:27:22 +0000

Maxime Iattoni

A hard-boiled egg encased in sausage and bread crumbs, and then deep-fried, is a fixture of modern pub menus, but London department store Fortnum & Mason claims to have invented the hearty snack in 1738. This recipe comes from London-based food stylist Lucy-Ruth Hathaway. We recommend frying a bite of sausage to test for saltiness before assembly. This scotch egg recipe was featured in our 150 classic recipes in our 150th issue.

Yield: serves 6

7 large eggs, divided
1 lb. mild pork sausage, casings removed
1 tbsp. English mustard, such as Colman’s
1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp. cornstarch
¼ tsp. ground mace
2 sage leaves, finely chopped
2 thyme sprigs, stemmed and finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
¼ cups whole milk
½ cups all-purpose flour
2 cups panko bread crumbs

Instructions

In a large Dutch oven, place 6 of the eggs and cover by 1 inch with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then cover, remove from the heat, and let sit for 6 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water, and cool for 5 minutes. Pour out the ice water. Peel the eggs under cold running water, place the peeled eggs back in the bowl, and set aside.
Use a paper towel to pat the eggs dry. In a medium bowl, use your hands to combine the sausage meat, mustard, Worcestershire, cornstarch, mace, sage, thyme, and salt and black pepper to taste. Divide the mixture into 6 equal portions. With wet hands, form each portion around each cooked egg, coating it completely in an even layer. Place the eggs on a plate and refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm up the coating.
Line a large plate with paper towels. Rinse and thoroughly dry the Dutch oven, then turn the heat to medium-high, and add the oil to a depth of 2 inches, and attach a deep-fry thermometer. While the oil preheats, in a small bowl, beat the remaining egg with the milk. Place the flour and bread crumbs in two separate small bowls. When the thermometer reads 350°F, working in batches, dredge each meat-covered egg in flour, then coat with the egg mixture and then the bread crumbs. Fry, flipping occasionally, until golden and the meat is cooked through, about 7 minutes. Transfer to the plate to cool for 10 minutes, then serve.

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Khao Khluk Kapi (Bangkok Rice with Shrimp Paste and Sweet Pork)

Austin Bush — Tue, 31 Aug 2021 03:01:45 +0000

Austin Bush

While pad Thai was invented in Thailand, it has palpable Chinese influences; khao khluk kapi, on the other hand, could be considered an even more emblematically Thai dish. In this version, from Apavinee “Taew” Indaransi, owner of Bangkok’s Baan Varnakovida, long-grain rice is seasoned and topped with ingredients that speak to the region’s bright and diverse flavors, aromas, and textures, from sweet braised pork to tart green mango to bracing raw shallot to crispy dried shrimp. Find Thai-style shrimp paste, black soy sauce, and palm sugar at your local Asian grocery store, or order them online from Kalustyan’s.

Featured in: “This Under-the-Radar Bangkok Classic Is Worth The Trip to Thailand.”

Yield: serves 4

Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the sweet pork:

2 large cilantro roots (including a bit of green stem), finely chopped (2 Tbsp.)
2 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tbsp. lard
6 small shallots, peeled and thinly sliced (1½ cups)
¼ cups (3½ oz.) soft palm sugar
10½ oz. pork neck, cubed
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. Thai black soy sauce

For the rice:

1 cup Thai long-grained rice
1 tbsp. lard
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
1½ oz. ground pork
2 tbsp. Thai shrimp paste
¼ cups vegetable oil

For the crispy shrimp and the egg ribbons:

⅓ cups (1 oz.) small dried shrimp
2 large eggs, beaten

For serving:

1 small green (unripe) mango
24 very small bird’s eye chilies, thinly sliced (1 Tbsp.)
8 small shallots, peeled and thinly sliced (2 cups)
Lime wedges

Instructions

Up to 3 days before you plan to serve the dish, make the sweet pork: Using a mortar and pestle, pound the cilantro roots and garlic to a coarse paste. Set aside. In a medium pot over low heat, heat the lard. Add the reserved cilantro root and garlic paste, and cook, stirring frequently, just until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the shallots and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until translucent, 2–4 minutes more. Add the palm sugar and continue cooking until the sugar has melted and is beginning to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Add the pork neck, 1 cup of water, the black soy sauce, and the salt. Turn the heat to medium high, bring to boil, then lower the heat to simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until nearly all the water has evaporated, and the mixture is dark, syrupy and fragrant, around 45 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool to room temperature.
At least a couple hours before serving, make the rice: Place the grains in a small pot and rinse well until the water runs clear. Strain off the water, then measure 1 cup of fresh water into the pot. Over high heat, bring the mixture to a rapid boil for 2 or 3 seconds, then turn the heat as low as possible, cover, and cook the rice for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and remove the lid for a few seconds to let the excess heat and moisture escape. Return the lid and let the rice rest until it has soaked up any residual heat and moisture and is starting to separate into distinct grains, about 10 minutes. Stir gently and set aside, covered, at room temperature.
To a wok or large skillet over medium heat, add the lard. When hot, add the garlic and stir-fry until golden, about 30 seconds. Add the ground pork and continue stir-frying until just cooked through, about 1 minute more. Add the shrimp paste, and continue stir-frying until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add ¼ cup of water, lower the heat to simmer and and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has reduced to the the consistency of a chunky pasta sauce, about 5minutes. Gently stir in the reserved rice to combine, then transfer to a medium bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, make the crispy shrimp and the egg ribbons: Line a heatproof plate with paper towels and set it by the stove. Wipe out the wok and set over medium-high heat; add the vegetable oil and, when the oil is hot, add the shrimp and fry, stirring occasionally, until crispy, golden and very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Using a spider skimmer or slotted metal spoon, transfer the shrimp to the lined plate and set aside. Pour any excess oil off into a heatproof jar and reserve for another use. Return the wok to the stove, turn the heat to low and add the eggs, tilting and swirling the wok to distribute in a very thin, even layer. Fry, shifting the wok to ensure that the omelet cooks evenly, around 1 minute. Using a thin spatula, flip the omelet and continue cooking on the opposite side, around 15 seconds. Remove from heat. When the omelet is cool enough to handle, roll it into a tight cylinder, then slice into thin ribbons. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
Shred the mango: Using a vegetable peeler, peel the mango, then, using a sharp knife, make shallow, lengthwise incisions on one side of the fruit. Then, turn the knife crosswise and shave down along the surface of the mango, resulting in thin, irregular strands. Repeat with the remaining mango.
To serve, divide the reserved rice among four medium plates. Around each mound of rice, arrange ¼ of the sweet pork, ¼ of the omelet ribbons, ¼ of the shredded mango, ¼ of the sliced chiles, and ¼ of the sliced shallots; top each rice mound with crispy shrimp and a lime wedge and serve at room temperature.

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Cherry Tomato Tarte Tatin

SAVEUR Editors — Sat, 21 Aug 2021 01:59:17 +0000

MICHELLE HEIMERMAN

Juicy cherry or grape tomatoes are coated in a light caramel to make the “topping” for this tart, but the whole thing is baked upside down in a skillet. Do most of the steps to prepare it in advance—make the zucchini paste and defrost the puff pastry a few hours or up to two days ahead—but be sure to serve the tart just after baking. It tastes best while the caramel is still runny and the warm, and the topmost layer of dough has a custardy consistency.

Featured in: “How Do You Make a Tarte Tatin Even Better? By Making it With Tomatoes.”

Yield: serves 4-8 People

Time: 5 hours 45 minutes

Ingredients

For the zucchini paste:

¹⁄₄ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
¹⁄₄ cup plus 3 Tbsp. honey
1 lb. 10 oz. medium zucchini, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 large handful (½ packed cup) mixed fresh herbs, such as basil and parsley
Kosher salt

For the tart:

50 ripe red or golden cherry or grape tomatoes (1 lb.)
Olive oil, for drizzling
Kosher salt
Pinch of sugar
1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed in the refrigerator
Small basil or mint leaves, for garnish

For the caramel:

4 tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes
¹⁄₃ cup superfine sugar

Instructions

Up to 2 days ahead, make the zucchini paste: Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a medium Dutch oven, whisk the oil and honey until combined. Add the zucchini and herbs, and season with salt; toss to combine.
Cut a parchment-paper round to fit inside the Dutch oven, and place it atop the zucchini mixture. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and bake until the zucchini is soft and sweet, about 4 hours.
Drain off and discard about ⅔ cup of the zucchini-cooking liquid. Transfer the remaining mixture to a small food processor and process until very smooth, 2–3 minutes. Cover and refrigerate if not using immediately.
Prepare the tomatoes: Set a large pot of water to boil over high heat and prepare a bowl of ice water. Using a paring knife, slice a small “X” into the bottom of each tomato. Once all the tomatoes are ready, transfer them to the pot of boiling water; let cook just until the skins start to pull away from the flesh where cut, about 20 seconds, then use a spider strainer or slotted spoon to transfer them to the ice water. When cool enough to handle, peel the tomatoes, discarding the skins. Transfer the peeled tomatoes to a large rimmed baking sheet. Add a drizzle of olive oil and a small pinch each of salt and sugar, and toss to coat.
Two hours before serving, preheat the oven to 350°F. Transfer the tomatoes to the oven and bake until dried slightly, about 1 hour. Remove the tomatoes, and turn the oven up to 375°F; position a rack in the top third of the oven.
Make the caramel: Set the butter cubes and a whisk next to the stove. To a medium oven-safe stainless-steel skillet, add the sugar. Place over medium heat and cook, swirling the pan occasionally, until the sugar melts and turns a deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Quickly whisk in the butter until incorporated, then remove from the heat.
Assemble and bake the tart: Tightly pack the tomatoes in an orderly circular pattern atop the caramel along the bottom of the skillet; season lightly with salt and set aside.
Cut the puff pastry into a 9½-inch round. Spread about 2 tablespoons of the zucchini paste across one side of the pastry round, leaving a ½-inch border around the edges. Place the round, zucchini-side down, atop the tomatoes. Tuck the edges around the tomatoes so the dough touches the sides of the pan. Using a paring knife, score the top of the puff pastry in a few places so steam can escape while baking.
Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake until the pastry is puffed and deep golden, 28–34 minutes. Open the oven door and let the tart stand 2–3 minutes.
Overturn a flat serving plate atop the skillet, then quickly invert the skillet to turn the tart out onto the plate. (If any tomatoes remain stuck to the pan, dislodge them and place back on the tart). Let cool slightly, then garnish with basil or mint leaves, slice, and serve.

For More Tarte Tatin

Photography by Vanessa Rees

This tart is traditionally made with apples, but firm-fleshed pears make a delicate and delicious alternative. Get the recipe for Pear Tarte Tatin »

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The Best Pumpkin Pie

Stella Parks — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:24:19 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross

America’s favorite pumpkin puree is actually made from squash, so why not turn to the earthy sweetness of fresh butternut squash? It’s dead easy to prepare at home and tastes more vibrantly “pumpkin” than anything from a can. By that same token, homemade condensed milk is rich and creamy like no other. Baked together in a crisp and flaky All-Butter Pastry Crust, these DIY ingredients elevate a traditional pie into something more than the sum of its parts.

Stella Parks’ tome on the art, science, and history of American desserts is a must-read for anyone with a sweet-tooth

Featured in: BraveTart is the Best Baking Book We’ve Seen in Years

What You Will Need

Yield: makes one 9-inch pie

Time: 45 minutes

1 whole medium butternut squash (about 7 inches long and 4 inches across at the base; at least 24 oz.)
2 cups (19 oz.) Quick Condensed Milk (or substitute canned)
¹⁄₂ cup (4 oz.) light brown sugar, packed
1 tbsp. vanilla extract or bourbon
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. ground ginger
1 ¹⁄₂ tsp. ground cinnamon
¹⁄₄ tsp. grated nutmeg, plus more to garnish if desired
¹⁄₄ tsp. Diamond Crystal kosher salt (half as much if iodized)
¹⁄₈ tsp. ground cloves
2 tbsp. (1 oz.) unsalted butter, melted
3 whole large eggs, straight from the fridge
1 whole Fully blind-baked 9-inch all-butter pastry crust
2 cups whipped cream (optional)
1 cup (5 oz.) crushed toffee bits (optional)

Instructions

Prepare the squash puree: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 400°F. Split the squash lengthways, scoop out the seeds, and place cut side down on a foil-lined aluminum baking sheet. Roast until fork-tender, about 45 minutes. When the squash is cool enough to handle, use a large spoon to scrape out the pulp. Pulse in a food processor until smooth, or rub through a double-mesh sieve. Measure out 14 ounces (13⁄4 cups) squash puree. Use warm, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Make the pie: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 375°F. In a medium bowl, whisk the squash puree, condensed milk, brown sugar, vanilla, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, cloves, butter, and eggs until smooth. Pour into the baked crust, place on an aluminum baking sheet, and bake until the custard has puffed into a gentle dome, about 25 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F and continue baking until the custard is firm around the edges but still wobbly in the very center, about 25 minutes more (200°F; 210°F if the probe touches the crust). Let cool at room temperature until the custard is set, about 2 hours. Cut the pie with a chef’s knife. If you like, serve with dollops of whipped cream and a sprinkling of crushed toffee (if using). Wrapped in plastic, leftovers will keep for up to 4 days at room temperature.

The post The Best Pumpkin Pie appeared first on Saveur.

Raspberry Mascarpone Pie with Hazelnut Wafer Crust

Ellen Gray — Sun, 14 Feb 2021 17:06:27 +0000

Get the recipe for Raspberry Mascarpone Pie with Hazelnut Wafer Crust ». Ellen Gray

Manner Neapolitaner Wafers and hazelnuts form the crust for a tart raspberry filling topped with sweet mascarpone cream and fresh raspberries. This rich dessert pairs well with strong coffee or a nightcap of hazelnut liqueur.

Featured in: A Trip to Vienna is as Close as this Pink Foil-Wrapped Wafer

Equipment

Food Processor Fitted with the Blade Attachment
Medium Bowl
Fork
9-Inch Aluminum or Glass Pie Plate
Plastic Wrap
¼ Cup Measuring Cup or Glass
Large Baking Sheet
Heavy Bottomed Saucepan
Small Bowl
Offset Spatula or Spoon
Large Bowl
Silicone Spatula

Yield: makes One 19-inch pie

Time: 4 hours

Ingredients

For the Crust

Three 2.65-oz. packages Manner Hazelnut Wafer Cookies
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
¹⁄₄ cup blanched, toasted hazelnuts, finely chopped
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt
Nonstick spray or canola oil, for greasing

For the Raspberry Filling and Topping

12 oz. frozen raspberries, thawed briefly at room temperature
¹⁄₄ cup granulated sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
1 ¹⁄₂ Tbsp. cornstarch
1 Tbsp. raspberry preserves
¹⁄₂ tsp. vanilla extract
²⁄₃ cup (160 g) mascarpone cheese
¹⁄₂ cup (120 g) sour cream
¹⁄₃ cup (115 g) honey
¹⁄₄ cup blanched, toasted hazelnuts, finely chopped
1 cup fresh raspberries

Instructions

Make the crust: To the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, add one package of Manner wafer cookies, and pulse just to break the cookies down to medium-fine crumbs, taking care not to over process. Transfer the crumbs to a medium bowl, then repeat with the remaining two packages of wafers. To the bowl of crumbs, add the butter, hazelnuts, and salt, then use a fork to blend until the mixture is thoroughly moistened and holds together when squeezed in the palm of your hand.
Preheat an oven (with one of its racks positioned in the center) to 325° F. Lightly grease the bottom, but not the sides, of a 9-inch aluminum or glass pie plate with nonstick spray or oil. Sprinkle the crumb mixture over the bottom of the pie plate, then place a piece of plastic wrap over the crumbs, and press them into an even layer, working the mixture into the corners of the plate and evenly up the sides. Use the bottom of a ¼ cup measuring cup or glass to smooth the crumbs into place. Transfer to the freezer until the crust is firm and set, at least 15 minutes or overnight.
Retrieve the pie shell from the freezer, place it on a large baking sheet, remove the plastic film, then immediately transfer to the oven and bake until just set and lightly browned, checking it towards the end, 12–14 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.
Meanwhile, prepare the filling: To a heavy bottomed saucepan over medium heat, add the frozen raspberries, sugar, and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture comes to a boil. In a small bowl, stir together the cornstarch and 1 tablespoon cold water, then add this slurry to the boiling berry mixture. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, until thickened, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, then stir in the raspberry preserves and vanilla. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
When the raspberry filling is cooled, pour it into the pie shell and use an offset spatula or the back of a spoon to smooth into an even layer. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate while you prepare the mascarpone cream.
In a large bowl, use a silicone spatula to fold together the mascarpone and sour cream. Slowly drizzle in the honey while folding, just to combine, then fold in the hazelnuts.
Retrieve the pie from the fridge. Spoon the mascarpone cream over the raspberry filling then use an offset spatula or the back of a spoon to smooth. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the mascarpone cream is firm, at least 3 and up to 8 hours. Just before serving, remove the plastic wrap and garnish the pie with fresh raspberries. Serve cold; cover and refrigerate any leftovers for at least 3 hours and up to 3 days.

The post Raspberry Mascarpone Pie with Hazelnut Wafer Crust appeared first on Saveur.

Crespelle with Sausage and Swiss Chard

Josh Cohen — Thu, 04 Feb 2021 17:13:57 +0000

Crispy on the outside and soft and luscious within, these stuffed Italian crêpes are the ultimate comfort dish. Get the recipe for Crespelle with Sausage and Swiss Chard ». Chloe Zale

This dish is similar to the best-loved baked pastas, in that it’s deeply savory and somewhat indulgent, but here, thin crêpes (crespelle) replace the traditional noodles. A seared sausage and wilted Swiss chard filling is loosely bound together with silky béchamel sauce and topped with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, creating a harmony of comforting flavors. The crêpes in this recipe are a fun change of pace, as their exterior turns crispy while their interiors sponge up any excess sauce, creating an enjoyable contrast of texture. The crêpes, the filling, and the sauce can all be made ahead of time, so although this recipe is somewhat of a project, you can cook at your own pace and minimize stress by prepping some or all of the components ahead of time.

Featured in: If You Like Lasagna, You’ll Love Crespelle

Equipment

Yield: serves 4

Time: 3 hours 10 minutes

Ingredients

For the crespelle:

1½ cups whole milk, plus more as needed
4 large eggs
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt
1 cup (4 oz.) all-purpose flour
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
Olive oil, as needed

For the béchamel sauce, filling, and topping:

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces
¹⁄₄ cup all-purpose flour
4 cups whole milk
1 Tbsp. plus ¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided
¹⁄₂ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
2 bunches Swiss chard (about 1 lb), leaves washed and dried (stems reserved for another use)
1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. canola oil
2 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (1 cup)
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Instructions

Make the crespelle batter: In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, eggs, and salt until well combined. Sift in the flour a little at a time, whisking after each addition, until the batter smooth. Whisk in the melted butter, then cover and refrigerate the batter for at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.
Meanwhile, make the béchamel sauce: In a large pot over medium heat, add the butter, and melt completely. Whisk in the flour, and let cook, stirring continuously, until the roux is golden, frothy and thickened, about 3 minutes. Slowly whisk in the milk until incorporated, then turn the heat to high and cook, whisking continuously, until the milk begins to simmer. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, whisking regularly and scraping the bottom of the pot to make sure the béchamel sauce doesn’t stick or scorch. Continue cooking until the sauce has thickened, 10–12 minutes. Stir in 2 teaspoons of the salt and the nutmeg and stir to combine. Cover the sauce with a sheet of plastic wrap pressed directly against the surface to prevent a skin from forming and set aside at room temperature (or transfer to the fridge for up to 48 hours).
Make the crespelle: Give the batter a quick stir in case the solids have settled at the bottom of the bowl. To a small nonstick skillet over medium heat, add a few drops of olive oil, then wipe the skillet clean with a dry paper towel so that only a very thin film of oil remains. When the skillet is hot, hold the skillet in one hand and ¼ cup ladle of batter in the other. Gingerly pour the batter into the skillet and immediately tilt the pan in a circular motion to spread the batter in an even layer across the surface. Cook the crepe until the edges become golden brown and the underside has developed a golden color, 2–3 minutes. Using your fingers or a thin spatula, flip the crepe and cook until the batter is fully set and begins to turn golden in color, about 30 seconds more. Transfer the crespella to a large plater. Repeat with the remaining batter, adding more oil to the skillet as necessary if it becomes too dry. You should have 10 crespelle by the end of this process. If preparing the crespelle in advance, you can stack them on a plate, wrap them in plastic wrap, and store them in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Make the filling: Stack the chard leaves atop one another, roll them into a tight log, then slice crosswise, creating ¼-inch ribbons; set aside. Heat a large skillet or Dutch oven over high heat and add the canola oil. Using a cutting board or a plate, divide the sausage meat in half and press each half into a thin layer (the more surface area you create, the more tasty caramelization you’ll get). When the oil is hot and just beginning to smoke, add half of the sausage to the skillet and cook, undisturbed, until it turns golden on one side, 2–4 minutes. Use a wooden spoon to break up the meat into small pieces, stirring and scraping the bottom of the skillet. Continue cooking until the meat is cooked through, 1–2 minutes more, then transfer the cooked sausage to a large bowl. Repeat with the second half of the sausage. Once the second half of the sausage is cooked, add the first half back to the skillet, along with the onion and black pepper. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring regularly, until the onion has softened, 6–8 minutes. Add half of the chard along with 1 teaspoon of salt and cook until the chard is wilted but still bright green, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining chard and salt and cook until all of the chard is fully wilted, 3–4 minutes more. Remove from heat, then stir in 2 cups of the reserved béchamel sauce and set aside until cool enough to handle.
Place one of the crespella on a large, clean plate and scoop ½ cup of the sausage-chard mixture into the center, using a spoon to spread it into an even line Roll the crespella into a tube shape and transfer the roll, seam-side down, to a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Repeat with the remaining crespelle and filling. Spoon the remaining béchamel sauce evenly over the top of the crespelle, sprinkle with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and bake until the top is golden brown and the edges are crispy, 15–20 minutes. Serve hot.

The post Crespelle with Sausage and Swiss Chard appeared first on Saveur.

The Hardest Food to Make

SAVEUR Editors — Fri, 08 Feb 2019 18:10:31 +0000

This advanced version of traditional pork pies includes three kinds of pork (shoulder, belly, and slab bacon) and tender chicken for a multi-note meaty flavor, plus savory stuffing. The recipe is inspired by the huntsman pie from the Brantwood Café, a restaurant in Coniston, where it's served with tangy Westmorland chutney. Our recipe makes small single-serving pies; you will need four 5 3/4-by-3-inch loaf pans, available from Wilton. Get the recipe for Huntsman Pies ». Food Styling by Maggie Ruggiero

Don’t feel like breaking a sweat? Then, by all means, check out our simple weeknight meal and no-bake dessert compendiums—both rife with recipes guaranteed to get something tasty on the table fast.

But what about those rare, luxurious weekends when you find yourself alone with nothing but time in need of killing? We’d like to suggest the following delicious—and challenging—ways to wind down the clock: homemade soba noodles, from-scratch croissants, hand-ground corn masa, and 15 other authentic labors of love likely to push the limits of your cooking chops.

Hand-picked by Saveur’s test-kitchen crew, these difficult recipes offer some of the hardest food to make. They require multi-step creations that take days to complete (French cassoulet, Korean gamjatang) and technically advanced methods requiring practice and finesse (the meticulous folds mandated by Turkish manti).

At the end of an exhausted day (or days), your arms sore and covered in flour or pork fat, you might discover a sense of satisfaction too deep to be attributed to the conquered challenge alone. Truth is, effort just plain tastes better. You get out what you put in. And with practice, even the most complicated dishes become easy.

Duck Pâté en Croûte

Pâté is a labor of love, but it’s worth every step, especially when you bake it in flaky homemade pastry dough and top it with a flavorful gelée. Here, being careful to keep the ingredients cold during the process, and taking the same care when folding and filling the dough, yields a pâté that everyone will write home about. Get the recipe for Duck Pâté en Croûte » Matt Taylor-Gross

Note: This is a time-intensive recipe that may exceed 24 hours, but a lot of that time is from chilling the farce overnight. Take care with your prep time and you can shoten the work to a day; just be sure that everything is properly chilled throughout the process. Get the recipe for Duck Pâté en Croûte »

Huntsman Pies

This advanced version of traditional pork pies includes three kinds of pork (shoulder, belly, and slab bacon) and tender chicken for a multi-note meaty flavor, plus savory stuffing. The recipe is inspired by the huntsman pie from the Brantwood Café, a restaurant in Coniston, where it’s served with tangy Westmorland chutney. Our recipe makes small single-serving pies; you will need four 5 3/4-by-3-inch loaf pans, available from Wilton. Get the recipe for Huntsman Pies » Food Styling by Maggie Ruggiero

Italian Easter Pie (Pizza Gain, a.k.a. Pizza Rustica)

Sometimes called pizza rustica or Easter pie, this savory southern Italian pie—eaten around the holiday—incorporates chopped cured salamis and Italian cheeses into a dense, eggy filling surrounded by a pastry-like crust. It’s most delicious eaten warm the same day it’s baked, but leftovers (which you are almost certain to have) will keep for 4 to 5 days. Get the recipe for Italian Easter Pie (Pizza Gain, a.k.a. Pizza Rustica) » Matt Taylor-Gross

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Thai Steamed Coconut-Pandan Cake (Khanom Chan)

Think of these silky, chewy, coconutty gummies as richer, more flavorful Jello jigglers, made with a steamed batter of coconut milk with sticky rice flour and tapioca and arrowroot starches. It’s a labor of love: to form the neat layers, you have to let the previous layer steam enough until set but still a little tacky before adding the next. The cake also benefits enormously from making your own pandan extract; though you can buy pre-made extract in Thai groceries, it won’t compare to the unique sweet herbal fragrance of the fresh leaves. (You can buy fresh or frozen pandan leaves online or in well-stocked Thai groceries.) Get the recipe for Thai Steamed Coconut-Pandan Cake (Khanom Chan) » Matt Taylor-Gross

The Ultimate Pot Roast

A low and slow braise is the best way to transform tough cuts of meat into fork-tender morsels. This version, made with a crosscut whole beef shank, is cooked in white wine and rich homemade beef bouillon layered with vegetables and aromatics for added complexity. Crunchy roasted radishes and a funky flaxseed, herb, and vinegar relish balance the pot roast’s richness with acidity and texture. Get the recipe for The Ultimate Pot Roast » Heami Lee

Roasted and Fresh Tomato Pie

As soon as the first tomato blossom turns into a tiny green orb, people start calling Kinston restaurant Chef & the Farmer to find out if tomato pie is on the menu. If you have access to two different colors of tomatoes, combine them here—one for the roasted portion and another for the fresh. It’s a nice visual touch. Get the recipe for Roasted and Fresh Tomato Pie » Photography by Tim Robison

Gamjatang (Spicy Pork Neck and Potato Stew)

A classic hearty Korean stew made with meaty pork neck, potatoes, and nutty perilla seeds. Sesame seeds cannot be substituted for the perilla in this recipe; seek perilla seed, also called wild sesame seed, out at Asian markets. Optional but recommended: Serve this dish with its accompanying dipping sauce. Get the recipe for Gamjatang (Spicy Pork Neck and Potato Stew) » Matt Taylor-Gross

Boiled Cow’s Head (Tête de Veau)

“For me, eating calf’s head is a must in Lyon—even for breakfast,” says chef Daniel Boulud about this Lyonnaise specialty. “It brings back memories of family gatherings and special occasions. We used to raise and slaughter our own calves growing up.” Instead of tackling the butchery on your own, have your butcher do the heavy lifting for you: Ask for the meat, tongue, and brain to be separated from the skull, but leave the skin on because, as Boulud says, “it’s not tête de veau without the skin.” Get the recipe for Boiled Cow’s Head (Tête de Veau) » Helen Cathcart

Lou Fassum

Lou fassum is most dramatic when presented whole, then sliced into thick wedges. Serving the pieces with a stock-based glaze is optional. The dish can also be drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with fresh herbs, or ladled with chicken stock and topped with a dusting of grated cheese. Serve with mashed or roasted potatoes if desired. Get the recipe for Lou Fassum » Matt Taylor-Gross

Turkish Lamb Dumplings with Yogurt and Brown Butter Tomato Sauce (Manti)

It’s believed that these traditional meat-filled parcels were carried into Anatolia via the Silk Road. Regardless of their past, they have an unquestionable place at the Turkish table. This version is Turkish in origin but uses a technique derived from Armenian recipes: The dumplings are baked in the oven before boiling, allowing the meat to better flavor the dough and imparting a toasty aroma to the final dish. Get the recipe for Lamb Dumplings » Matt Taylor-Gross

Classic Eclairs

When it comes to eclairs, homemade is always better. Bakeries have to chill their filled eclairs, which makes for soggy centers and mushy crusts; you can freshly fill yours at home and eat them right away. This recipe is adapted from pastry chef Scott Cioe from Park Hyatt New York. Get the recipe for Classic Eclairs » Farideh Sadeghin

Quebecois-Style Mixed Meat Pie (Cipaille)

The exposed marrow bone isn’t just carnivore bravado: It’s also a chimney that allows steam to escape past the pastry from the juicy filling within. Get the recipe for Quebecois-Style Mixed Meat Pie (Cipaille) » Grant Cornett

Rainbow Baked Alaska

Five different flavors of sorbet are encased in meringue in this towering cake. Get the recipe for Rainbow Baked Alaska » Ted + Chelsea Cavanaugh

Enmoladas with Oaxacan Black Mole Sauce (Mole Negro)

This rich and fragrant sauce is labor intensive, bit it batches up easily and freezes well. Stock up! Get the recipe for Enmoladas with Oaxacan Black Mole Sauce (Mole Negro) » Quentin Bacon

Dominique Ansel’s Cassoulet

Made with confit duck legs, pork belly, and two kinds of sausage, this meaty, resplendently rich cassoulet is worth treasuring all winter. Get the recipe for Dominique Ansel’s Cassoulet » Matt Taylor-Gross

The Best Croissants

The croissant’s perfection is twofold: an interior of infinitely spiraling paper-thin layers and a shatteringly flaky crust. Get the recipe for The Best Croissants » Christina Holmes

Handmade Ramen Noodles

A light dusting of cornstarch prevents homemade noodles from sticking together while resting in the refrigerator. Get the recipe for Handmade Ramen Noodles » Hugh Amano

Homemade Masa

Behold the glory of mashed potato-y homemade masa, building block of many Mexican favorites. Get the recipe for Homemade Masa » Photography by Heami Lee

The post The Hardest Food to Make appeared first on Saveur.