Winter | Saveur

Croissants au Beurre

Chad Robertson — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:35 +0000

Emma Star Jensen

The croissant is the most celebrated member of the family of butter- and sugar-enriched, yeasted pastries known as viennoiseries. They obtain their signature flaky texture through lamination, the process of coating a dough with fat and repeatedly folding and rolling it to create layers. Tartine owner Chad Robertson insists on an unsalted, high-fat butter with at least 80 percent fat for laminating his straight-armed versions.

Recipe times may vary drastically depending on environmental factors, so be sure to mind the visual cues before moving on to the next step. If possible, use a scale to measure your ingredients and work in a cool room.

Featured in “How to Make the Best Ultra-Buttery Croissants,” by Kat Craddock.

Ingredients

For the Preferment:

³⁄₄ cup (200 g) 2% milk
¹⁄₂ tsp. (2 g) active dry yeast (not instant)
1 ¹⁄₄ cups (175 g) bread flour

For the Dough:

2 tsp. (8 g) active dry yeast (not instant)
1 ³⁄₄ cups (425 g) 2% milk
5 ¹⁄₄ cups (800 g) bread flour, plus more as needed
¹⁄₃ cup (70 g) sugar
1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. (22 g) fine sea salt
1 tbsp. (12 g) unsalted butter, melted
5 sticks (585 g) high-fat unsalted butter (look for European-style brands like Plugra, President, or Kerrygold) at room temperature
3 large egg yolks
2 tbsp. heavy cream

Instructions

Make the preferment: In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the milk just enough to take the chill off. (The milk should not feel warm or cold to the touch, 80°–90°.)
Pour the milk into a large bowl, then sprinkle in the yeast and stir to dissolve. Add the flour and mix with a wooden spoon until a smooth batter forms. Cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel and let the mixture rise until almost doubled in volume, 2½–3 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.
Make the dough: Transfer the preferment to the large bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Set the milk, flour, sugar, salt, and melted butter nearby. Add the yeast to the preferment and mix on low speed, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl and bring together the ingredients as needed, until the yeast is incorporated and the mixture is an even, well-mixed mass, about 2 minutes. Raise the speed to medium, and while mixing, slowly add half of the milk. Continue to mix until fully incorporated. Turn off the mixer, then add the flour, sugar, salt, melted butter, and the remaining half of the milk. Mix on low speed until a loose dough forms, about 2 minutes. Return the speed to medium and mix until the dough is smooth and cohesive, 2 minutes more. Remove the hook and cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel. Let rise in a cool place until the volume has increased by nearly half, about 1½ hours.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and form it into a rough rectangle about 2 inches thick. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled through, 3–4 hours.
One hour before laminating the dough, make your butter sheet. Place a large sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap on a work surface. Add the butter to the center in a neat pile, then cover with a second sheet. Use a rolling pin to flatten and form the butter into a 12×18½-inch rectangle, peeling back the top sheet to manipulate the butter into shape as needed. Refrigerate to lightly chill but not fully resolidify, 5–10 minutes.
Laminate the dough: Lightly flour a work surface. Retrieve and unwrap the dough, then roll it out to a 28×12-inch rectangle. With a long side facing you, peel the top sheet away from the butter and flip it over to cover the left two-thirds of the rectangle. Peel away the other sheet. Fold the uncovered third of the dough over the butter, then fold the left-hand third over the center, as if folding a business letter. With your fingers, push down along the seams on the top and the bottom to seal in the butter. Give the dough a quarter turn so that the seams are perpendicular to you. Roll out the dough once more into a 28×12-inch rectangle, and fold again in the same manner (no need to pinch the seams again). Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to relax the gluten in the dough.
Clean the work surface, dust again lightly with flour, and retrieve the dough. Unwrap and again roll out into a rectangle 28×12 inches. Fold into thirds so that the rectangle measures 9×12 inches and 1½–2 inches thick. Wrap in plastic and immediately freeze on a flat surface for at least 1 hour or up to 1 week. (if frozen for more than an hour, transfer the dough to the refrigerator to thaw overnight before using in the morning.)
Three hours before you are ready to serve, form and proof the croissants: Remove the thawed dough from the refrigerator. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. Lightly dust a work surface with flour and roll into a 12×40-inch rectangle about 1⁄8 inch thick. Use a straight edge and a paring knife or pizza cutter to carefully trim 1 inch from each of the long sides; save for another use. Cut the remaining dough into 14 triangles, 4 inches at the base and 10 inches tall. Working one at a time, stretch the triangles slightly to extend them to 11 inches. Then, starting at the base, roll each tightly all the way to the tip to form an even, straight-armed croissant shape. Press slightly at the tip to adhere and to make a slightly flattened base for the croissant to rest on. Continue rolling the croissants in this manner, then transfer them, spaced evenly apart and flattened side down on the prepared baking sheets (no more than 6 croissants per baking sheet).
Preheat the oven to 400° and set the racks at least 4 inches apart. (If you only have room for 2 racks, the croissants should be baked in 2 rounds.) Set a large, wide baking dish filled with water on the floor of the oven. Place the baking sheets in a warm, preferably humid spot and let rise until the croissants are puffed, very gassy, and about doubled in size (they should slowly spring back when poked with your fingertip and jiggle slightly like gelatin when the tray is shaken), 60–80 minutes.
In a small bowl, beat the yolks and heavy cream. Brush the risen croissants evenly with the mixture and bake, without opening the oven, until the croissants begin to color, 20–22 minutes. Rotate the pans and continue cooking until evenly golden, 6–8 minutes more. Let cool slightly before serving.

Time To Make The Dough

Making the Dough Christina Holmes

Lead viennoisier, Fausto Echeverria, uses a high-fat, European-style butter from Oregon to laminate Tartine’s croissant dough. First, a thin sheet of butter is laid on top of the dough before it is folded into thirds (1). Then, Echeverria rolls the dough out a second time (2), before folding it again in thirds like a letter (3, 4). After a short rest in the fridge, the folding process is repeated once more. The dough is then rested again for several hours to relax the gluten. After the final rest, the dough can be sheeted out and shaped into croissants, danish, and morning buns.

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Nell Huffman’s Blueberry Pie

Nell Huffman — Mon, 09 Mar 2020 16:19:05 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

In Alaska, wild blueberries (also called Kyani berries) are picked in the summer and frozen for use throughout the winter, especially in pies. During crunch time just before the Iditarod, locals have been known to resort to commercial crusts; when time allows, we like to make this flaky all-butter crust from scratch. (This pie recipe is a favorite of longtime Takotna, Alaska resident Nell Huffman, and is adapted from The Joy of Blueberries by Theresa Millang.)

Featured in, “Pies and Alaskan Hospitality Along the Iditarod Trail.”

Yield: makes one 9-inch pie

Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

Dough for two prepared pie crusts, homemade or store-bought
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling the dough
½ cup sugar
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. nutmeg
¼ tsp. kosher salt
6 cups blueberries (fresh or frozen)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 Tbsp. whole milk
1 large egg yolk
Coarse sugar, for sprinkling (optional)

Instructions

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 400°F.
About 15 minutes before rolling out the pie dough, remove it from the refrigerator to soften slightly. Lightly flour a clean work surface and a rolling pin. Roll out one of the pieces of dough into an even, ¼-inch-thick circle, then carefully lift the dough into a 9-inch aluminum or glass pie plate. Use a sharp knife to trim the edges, leaving 1 inch of overhang all the way around.
In a large bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Add the blueberries and vanilla and toss well to coat, then transfer the filling to the pie shell, mounding the berries slightly in the center. Dot the surface of the berries with the butter.
Once again, lightly flour your work surface and rolling pin. Roll out the second piece of dough into an even, ¼-inch-thick circle, then carefully lift the dough and place it over the berry mixture. Use a sharp knife to trim the edges, leaving about 1½ inches of overhang all the way around, then tuck the edges of the top crust under the edges of the bottom crust. Pinch the edges together decoratively to seal, or use the tines of a fork to crimp all the way around. Using the tip of a paring knife, make 6–8 slits on the surface of the crust to vent. Place the pie in the freezer just until the crust is firm, about 15 minutes.
In a small bowl, whisk together the milk and egg yolk. Brush the surface of the pie crust with the egg wash and sprinkle with coarse sugar, if using. Place the pie on a large, rimmed baking sheet and bake until the crust is set and just beginning to brown, 20–25 minutes. Turn the temperature to 350°F and continue baking until the crust is evenly golden brown and the juices are bubbling and thickened, 30–40 minutes more for fresh berries or 60–70 minutes more for frozen. (If the edges begin to darken before the filling has thickened, cover them with strips of aluminum foil to finish baking.) Cool to room temperature before cutting into slices and serving.

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Rhubarb Red Onion Chutney

Anna Lise Kvan — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:37 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross

Rhubarb Red Onion Chutney Matt Taylor-Gross

This rhubarb red onion chutney recipe comes from Anna Lise Kvan, of Paris’s Holy Belly Café. She rightly calls it a labor of love since it requires patience and a little elbow grease—it’s important to keep stirring to make sure the rhubarb and onions caramelize without sticking. Make a big batch, so you can keep it in the fridge for up to two weeks. She suggests pairing the chutney with roasted pork cutlets or tenderloin, or spreading it on turkey, chicken, or ham sandwiches. We also like adding it to grilled cheeses and charcuterie boards.

Featured in “How to Cook With Rhubarb (Beyond Turning it Into Pie)”

Yield: Makes 2 cups

Time: 2 hours

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. olive oil
4 medium red onions, thinly sliced (7 cups)
1 tsp. fine salt
1 tsp. sugar
1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 whole cloves
6 rhubarb stalks, cut into 1⁄4-in. pieces (4 1⁄2 cups)
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest

Instructions

In a medium pot over medium heat, heat the butter and oil until the butter melts and begins to foam, about 2 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are jammy and deep brown, about 1 hour. Add the salt, sugar, black pepper, cloves, and rhubarb and turn the heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb is soft and broken down, about 50 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest.

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Danny Bowien’s Breakfast Pho

Danny Bowien — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:41:58 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Danny Bowien likes to serves this steamy chicken pho for breakfast. The dish is inspired by the Vietnamese soups he ate at San Francisco’s Turtle Tower when he was a culinary student. The chef simmers the simple chicken broth for just a short period after bringing it to a boil because he feels that overcooking causes the flavor of the aromatics to go flat.

Find this recipe in our cookbook SAVEUR: Soups and Stews.

Yield: 8

Time: 9 hours 55 minutes

One 3½ –4-lb. chicken
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ oz. Thai rock sugar or 1 tbsp. sugar
3 Tbsp. plus 1 cup fish sauce, preferably Squid brand, divided
2½ lb. fresh wide rice noodles or 32 oz. dried noodles, cooked and drained
1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
4 medium scallions, thinly sliced
½ large white onion, thinly sliced, rinsed, and drained
Sriracha sauce, for serving
½ cup fresh lime juice
1 jalapeño, stemmed and thinly sliced

Instructions

Using plenty of paper towels, pat the chicken dry, then place on a large rimmed baking sheet fitted with a wire rack. Season the bird generously with salt and black pepper inside and out. Transfer to the fridge and chill, uncovered, at least 8 or up to 24 hours.
To a large pot, add the chicken and 1 gallon of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn the heat down to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until the chicken is just cooked through, about 40 minutes.
Turn off the heat, then, using tongs, transfer the chicken to a cutting board or a clean rimmed baking sheet and set aside until cool enough to handle.
Remove and discard the chicken skin. Shred the meat and set it aside, then return the bones to the pot of broth. Return the pot to medium-high heat and bring the broth back up to a simmer, skimming and discarding any scum that forms along the surface, until the liquid is slightly reduced, 35–40 minutes.
Stir in the sugar and 3 tablespoons of fish sauce, then season the broth to taste with salt. Remove from the heat, set a fine mesh strainer over a clean medium pot and strain the broth into it. Add the reserved shredded chicken, set over medium heat, and cook just until warmed through. Divide the cooked noodles among 8 large soup bowls, then top with the hot broth and chicken. Garnish each serving with cilantro, scallions, onion, and sriracha. In a small bowl, stir together the remaining fish sauce, the lime juice, jalapeño, and a pinch of black pepper. Serve the chicken pho hot, with the dipping sauce on the side.

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Jogaetang (Korean Green Chile Clam Soup)

Dan Holzman and Matt Rodbard — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:55 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

The light, Korean soup called jogaetang is served up at San Francisco’s Toyose, run by husband-and-wife team Kong Kim and Jong Yu. Short on neither heat nor spice, it’s traditionally served over a butane flame, so the broth remains hot, and a heavy dose of heat is delivered from two types of thinly sliced green chiles. Jogaetang’s popularity derives from its status as a kind of Koreatown pub grub that functions as a reset of sorts, a piping elixir that blankets the belly and washes away the effects of the night past. Find dasima in well-stocked supermarkets, Asian grocery stores, or online; a type of dried kelp frequently used for adding briny richess to stocks and sauces, it is sometimes sold by its Japanese name, konbu or kombu.

Featured in: “Korean Clam Soup for the Drunk Soul.”

Yield: 2–4

Time: 1 hour 20 minutes

2 lb. littleneck clams, scrubbed clean
One 4-in. square dasima (dried kelp)
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
1 small jalapeño, stemmed and thinly sliced crosswise with seeds
1 Korean or Anaheim chile, stemmed and thinly sliced crosswise with seeds
Kosher salt
½ scallion, thinly sliced

Instructions

To a large bowl, add the clams and enough cold water to cover by an inch. Set aside at room temperature to purge for 1 hour.
Gently lift the clams from the water, leaving the grit behind; discard the soaking liquid and any grit.
To a large pot, add the dasima and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, cook for 3 minutes, then remove and discard the dasima. Add the clams, garlic, jalapeño, and chile, cover the pan, and cook until the clams open, about 4 minutes. If there are still closed clams, remove the opened clams to bowls and continue to cook the clams until they open; discard any clams that don’t open after 8 minutes total. Season the broth with salt to taste.
Divide the jogaetang among 2–4 wide bowls, garnish with scallions, and serve hot.

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Manhattan Clam Chowder

Hugh Merwin — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:26:44 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Meaty topneck clams are the briny backbone of this two-part chowder writer Hugh Merwin developed after searching Long Island, New York for the perfect clam chowder. The two essential parts of this are first, a flavor base made from the clams, gently cooked over a long simmer to form a potent flavor base that only gets better as it ages, then second, a soup enriched with just-melted bacon fat. For best results, age the base of this soup overnight, or store in the freezer for up to one month, for the flavors to fully develop. Freezing the clams overnight makes them easier to shuck before cooking.

This recipe ran alongside the 2015 article, “In Search for the Perfect Clam Chowder.”

Yield: 8-10

Time: 5 hours

2¾ lb. large topneck or cherrystone clams (about 3 dozen), frozen overnight
4 oz. salt pork, cut into ¼-in. cubes
2 bay leaves
2 medium white onions, finely chopped, divided
2 cups bottled clam juice
One 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, crushed by hand
2¼ lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-in. cubes
4 oz. slab or thick-cut bacon, cut into ¼-in. lardons
6 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled
1 Tbsp. finely chopped thyme
1 tsp. finely chopped marjoram
Freshly ground black pepper
Oyster crackers, for serving

Instructions

The day before you plan to serve the chowder, in a large colander, rinse the frozen clams with warm water for 30 seconds. Working quickly while they’re still frozen, shuck the clams, discarding their shells, and coarsely chop the meat by hand. Set aside.
In a large pot set over medium-low heat, cook the salt pork, stirring occasionally, until its fat renders, about 12 minutes. Add the bay leaves and half the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 10–12 minutes. Pour the clam juice, tomatoes, and chopped clams into the pot and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the soup is reduced by a third, about 1 hour. Stir in the potatoes and cook until they are fork-tender, about 12 minutes. Remove the pot from heat and let the soup cool to room temperature. Discard the bay leaves and refrigerate the chowder for at least 2 or up to 12 hours, or freeze for up to one month.
When ready to serve, bring the soup base to room temperature. In a large pot over medium heat, cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, until its fat renders, about 6 minutes. Add the remaining onions, along with the celery and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, 10–12 minutes. Pour the soup base into the pot, add the thyme and marjoram, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the soup is warmed through, about 30 minutes. Remove the chowder from the heat and season to taste with black pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve with oyster crackers.

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Anelletti al Forno

Katie Parla — Mon, 03 Apr 2023 17:30:25 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

This anelletti al forno recipe is primo Sicilian comfort food: cheesy baked pasta coated in rich, meaty ragù. The dish is adaptable, so feel free to make substitutions. Asparagus, mushrooms, or cubed cooked potatoes can be swapped in for the vegetables, while ground poultry makes a fine replacement for the meat.

Featured in: “This Saucy Sicilian Baked Pasta Is My Favorite Blank Canvas,” by Katie Parla.

Yield: 6–8

Time: 3 hours

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil or lard, plus more for greasing
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
½ medium onion, finely chopped
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 oz. ground beef
8 oz. ground pork
½ cup dry red wine
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
Pinch finely grated nutmeg
1½ (28-oz.) cans whole peeled tomatoes, tomatoes coarsely chopped, juice reserved
¾ cup peas, frozen or fresh
1 medium eggplant (12 oz.), cut into ½-in. cubes
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 Tbsp. bread crumbs
2 lb. dried anelletti, or other small pasta
4 large hard-boiled eggs, coarsely chopped
One 6-oz. slice deli ham, cut into ¼-in. cubes
12 oz. primosale or provolone cheese, cut into ¼-in. cubes
½ cup finely grated caciocavallo or Pecorino Romano cheese

Instructions

To a large pot set over medium heat, add the olive oil, carrot, celery, and onion and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft but not beginning to brown, about 20 minutes.
Add the beef and pork, season generously with salt and black pepper, and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, using a spoon to break up any large chunks, until browned, 5–8 minutes. Add the wine and stir, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot, and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 6 minutes. Stir in the cinnamon and nutmeg, then add the tomatoes and their juices and bring to a simmer. Turn the heat to low, partially cover, and cook at a bare simmer until the meat is very tender and the sauce has thickened, about 2 hours. Stir in the peas and season with salt and black pepper.
While the ragù cooks, place the eggplant in a colander in the sink. Sprinkle generously with salt and toss to coat. Place a plate atop the eggplant and top it with a heavy jar, then set aside to drain for 1 hour.
Into a deep skillet set over medium-high heat, pour 1 inch of vegetable oil. When it’s shimmering but not yet smoking, add enough eggplant to fit in a single layer without crowding the pan and fry, stirring and turning the eggplant occasionally, until deep golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate, then repeat with the remaining eggplant, adding more oil as needed.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Oil a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, then add the bread crumbs and shake to coat the pan (shake out any leftover crumbs and reserve); set aside.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil, then add the pasta and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain, then transfer back to the pot and stir in 4 cups of the ragù (reserve any left over for another use).
Spoon half of the pasta into the baking dish, then top evenly with the eggs, ham, half of the primosale, and half of the caciocavallo. Top with the remaining pasta, spread it in an even layer, and sprinkle with the remaining primosale, caciocavallo, and (if any remain) breadcrumbs.
Bake until the cheese is melted about 30 minutes. Set aside for at least 15 minutes before serving.

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Rao’s Famous Lemon Chicken

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:12 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio; Food Styling Pearl Jones; Prop Styling by Dayna Seman; Platter by Ivo Angel

A platter of this saucy, zippy lemon chicken goes out to nearly every table at Rao’s in New York City, the Italian American institution that’s famously hard to get into. All the more reason to whip up the old-school classic at home.

This recipe ran alongside Thomas McNamee‘s 1998 article, “The Hangout.”

Yield: 6

Time: 50 minutes

2 cups fresh lemon juice (from about 13 lemons)
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
½ tsp. dried oregano
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Two 2½-lb. chickens, their legs, thighs, and wings separated and breasts halved on the bone
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley leaves

Instructions

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 450ºF. In a large bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, oil, vinegar, oregano, garlic, and salt and black pepper to taste.
On a greased baking sheet, generously season the chicken with salt and toss to coat. Arrange skin-side down and bake for 15 minutes. Turn the chicken pieces and continue cooking until the skin is golden and crisp and the juices run clear, about 10 minutes more. Preheat the broiler to high.
Transfer the chicken to the bowl with the lemon mixture and toss to coat, then use a slotted spoon to transfer back to the baking sheet and arrange skin-side up. (Reserve the remaining liquid.) Broil until sizzling and deep golden brown, 10–15 minutes. Transfer to a platter, then pour the remaining sauce over top. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

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Monte Cristo Sandwich

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:46:21 +0000

Photography by Belle Morizio

People have strong opinions about the Monte Cristo sandwich, a double-decker of Swiss cheese, ham, and chicken or turkey, which is battered, fried, dusted with confectioners sugar, and served with a side of tart red jelly. Some consider it a marvel; others, an absurdity. Divisiveness aside, the perfect Monte Cristo recipe is an impressive one; the resulting sandwich is a stunning creation, requiring a knife and fork at the table. This recipe ran alongside Carolynn Carreño’s 1998 article, “Fried Nirvana?“

Yield: 2

Time: 20 minutes

2 large eggs
¼ cup whole milk
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
6 thin slices white bread
4 thin slices cooked turkey
4 thin slices cooked ham
4 thin slices Swiss cheese
Confectioners sugar, for garnish (optional)
Red currant jelly, for serving

Instructions

In a shallow bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk; season lightly with salt and black pepper and set aside.
For each sandwich, lightly butter 3 slices of bread on both sides (using a total of about 1 tablespoon of the butter). Place 2 slices each of turkey and ham between 2 slices of bread. Top with 2 slices of cheese, and then top with a third slice of buttered bread. Trim crusts, secure with toothpicks, and cut in half on the diagonal. Repeat with the remaining bread, turkey, ham, and cheese.
In a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast iron skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Dip the sandwich halves in the reserved egg-milk mixture to coat. When the melted butter foams, place the sandwiches in the skillet and cook until golden brown on one side, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter to the skillet, flip the sandwiches, and continue cooking until browned on the other side, about 2 minutes more. Transfer the sandwiches to 2 plates, sprinkle with confectioners sugar (if desired), and serve hot with red currant jelly on the side.

See all 150 classic recipes featured in our 150th issue »

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Kale Pesto Pasta

Fatima Khawaja — Tue, 07 Mar 2023 00:31:10 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Christine Albano; Prop Styling by Dayna Seman

Welcome to In Good Season, SAVEUR’s column on making the most of local produce according to contributing editor Fatima Khawaja. Here you’ll find creative, unfussy meal ideas plus plenty of cooking advice—like what to do with that bumper crop of zucchini or how to store delicate heirloom tomatoes. Follow along, and you’ll learn how to turn the season’s bounty into easy plant-based meals.

Kale takes center stage in this silky, anchovy-laced sauce. Blanching the fibrous greens before blending them both softens their texture and preserves their vibrant color. This kale pesto recipe leans on all-season pantry basics and a little bit of time. It’s one of the ways I make sure my young daughter gets plenty of green vegetables and her favorite pasta in one go.

Featured in: “Eating Your Greens Is Easy with These Lovely, Leafy Kale Recipes.”

Yield: 4

Time: 30 minutes

1 bunch lacinato kale, stems removed, leaves washed
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
¼ cup packed basil leaves
3 anchovy fillets
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 garlic clove, peeled
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. Calabrian chile paste (optional)
1 lb. dried rigatoni or other short pasta

Instructions

Fill a medium bowl halfway with ice water and set aside. Set a colander in the sink.
Fill a medium pot halfway with water and bring to a boil. Add the kale leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and tender, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the kale to the ice water bath, reserving the cooking liquid in the pot. Once completely cold, strain the kale through the colander, then transfer the leaves to a blender. Add the Parmesan, olive oil, basil, anchovies, lemon juice, and garlic. Blend on high until the sauce is smooth and silky, adding more olive oil, a tablespoon at a time, if needed. Stir in the chile paste (if using), season with salt and black pepper to taste, then set aside.
Season the kale-cooking liquid generously with salt, then bring to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain the pasta, discarding the cooking liquid, then return the pasta to the pot. Scrape the reserved kale pesto into the pasta and toss well to coat. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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